DOI Heft:
No. 11 (February, 1894)
DOI Artikel:Emanuel, Frank L.: Letters from artists to artists, [5], Holland from a Canadian canoe
DOI Seite / Zitierlink: https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.17189#0179
Holland from a
through the purple haze to the horizon, broken
only where some tall spire kisses the sky.
Going on, the towers of Delft rise majestically
out of the flatness. After a rapid tour of the town
on foot we embark once more, bound for the
Hague. A canal bordered by tree-shaded walks
led us out of Delft past an ancient turreted water-
gate.
In asking our way, we were not sure whether the
better result was obtained by pointing ahead and
saying in an inquiring tone—nach's Gravenkagf f
or by shouting—nach den Haagt for in both cases
the stolid bargee would either turn his head slowly
towards us and then slowly back again without
moving a feature, as though we were most pre-
posterous animals not sufficiently human to talk
to ; or else he would hurl hideous gutturals at us,
which we were free to take as playful banter, or as
an honest attempt to help us. Towards evening
we came to banks lined with elegant, homely villas,
each with its summer-house at the water's edge j
and lawns whereon were happy little tea-parties.
So on and on in the sweet gloaming, miles past
the canal we should have taken for the Hague.
Inquiring our route of a youthful Mynheer, we
discovered our mistake and retraced our strokes,
entering the Hague at sunset.
A SKETCH FROM THE CANOE
Having at length found an hotel with a water-front,
we landed our knapsacks, hauled our craft on to
the quay, and carried her into the hotel garden for
the night. Next day, after seeing the sights of the
Hague, we took the tram to Scheveningen, riding
Canadian Canoe
past a cavalry encampment on the dunes outside
the town, the sight of which made our fingers itch
for brush and paint.
We find Scheveningen almost deserted on this
" OUR TRAVELLING COMPANIONS "
fine spring morning, except for the fisherfolk who
stretch in crowds along the great sandy shore.
They are toiling with loads of fish just landed
from a hundred or so of broad-beamed, bluff-bowed
smacks bumping on the sands. We lunch by the
sea-shore and watch the unloading of the pinks,
performed by stalwart men and girls ; we notice
here and there a broken-backed cart with carved
and painted panels and a curious prow which
would continually hit the horse's quarters, were it
not that the driver from his place on the box wards
off the blows by pushing the horse forward with
his sabots.
Later we started for Leyden, or Leye as it is
called on the water. Our departure was honoured
by a volley of stones, some of which took effect.
We reached Leyden by the evening, approaching
the historic university town by the Oude Rijn or
Old Rhine, a fine broad stretch of water with
rowing-club houses on the banks. As the boating
men turned out to see us scud past we put on our
best form, going about six miles an hour. The
Koopitee was probahly the first Canadian canoe
seen in Holland, which would account for the
large amount of attention she attracted throughout
the voyage. Two men paddling on the same side
of a boat opened the eyes, ay, and mouths, of
these work-a-day Dutch people.
Having reached the centre of the town, we
halted by a cafd overhanging the water, and asked
some of the students with whom the place was
crowded to indicate to us some canal-side hotel.
We obtained contradictory replies, the intent of the
undergrads evidently being that we should moor
167
through the purple haze to the horizon, broken
only where some tall spire kisses the sky.
Going on, the towers of Delft rise majestically
out of the flatness. After a rapid tour of the town
on foot we embark once more, bound for the
Hague. A canal bordered by tree-shaded walks
led us out of Delft past an ancient turreted water-
gate.
In asking our way, we were not sure whether the
better result was obtained by pointing ahead and
saying in an inquiring tone—nach's Gravenkagf f
or by shouting—nach den Haagt for in both cases
the stolid bargee would either turn his head slowly
towards us and then slowly back again without
moving a feature, as though we were most pre-
posterous animals not sufficiently human to talk
to ; or else he would hurl hideous gutturals at us,
which we were free to take as playful banter, or as
an honest attempt to help us. Towards evening
we came to banks lined with elegant, homely villas,
each with its summer-house at the water's edge j
and lawns whereon were happy little tea-parties.
So on and on in the sweet gloaming, miles past
the canal we should have taken for the Hague.
Inquiring our route of a youthful Mynheer, we
discovered our mistake and retraced our strokes,
entering the Hague at sunset.
A SKETCH FROM THE CANOE
Having at length found an hotel with a water-front,
we landed our knapsacks, hauled our craft on to
the quay, and carried her into the hotel garden for
the night. Next day, after seeing the sights of the
Hague, we took the tram to Scheveningen, riding
Canadian Canoe
past a cavalry encampment on the dunes outside
the town, the sight of which made our fingers itch
for brush and paint.
We find Scheveningen almost deserted on this
" OUR TRAVELLING COMPANIONS "
fine spring morning, except for the fisherfolk who
stretch in crowds along the great sandy shore.
They are toiling with loads of fish just landed
from a hundred or so of broad-beamed, bluff-bowed
smacks bumping on the sands. We lunch by the
sea-shore and watch the unloading of the pinks,
performed by stalwart men and girls ; we notice
here and there a broken-backed cart with carved
and painted panels and a curious prow which
would continually hit the horse's quarters, were it
not that the driver from his place on the box wards
off the blows by pushing the horse forward with
his sabots.
Later we started for Leyden, or Leye as it is
called on the water. Our departure was honoured
by a volley of stones, some of which took effect.
We reached Leyden by the evening, approaching
the historic university town by the Oude Rijn or
Old Rhine, a fine broad stretch of water with
rowing-club houses on the banks. As the boating
men turned out to see us scud past we put on our
best form, going about six miles an hour. The
Koopitee was probahly the first Canadian canoe
seen in Holland, which would account for the
large amount of attention she attracted throughout
the voyage. Two men paddling on the same side
of a boat opened the eyes, ay, and mouths, of
these work-a-day Dutch people.
Having reached the centre of the town, we
halted by a cafd overhanging the water, and asked
some of the students with whom the place was
crowded to indicate to us some canal-side hotel.
We obtained contradictory replies, the intent of the
undergrads evidently being that we should moor
167