Biedrońska-Słotowa, Beata : Crossroads of costume and textiles in Poland: papers from the International Conference of the ICOM Costume Committee at the National Museum in Cracow, September 28 - October 4, 2003 (Krakau, 2005)

Janina Poskrobko-Strzęciwilk

Fig. 10 Fig. 11

Kontusz Sash. Woven by the manufacturer Kontusz Sash. Woven by a manufacturer in
Franciszek Masłowski in Cracow. Silk and Lyon, France. Silk and metallic in taąuete
metalik in taąuete weave. Fletcher Fund, 1946 weave. Roger Fund, 1911 (11.58.4)
(46.156.112)

er's inscription 'Franciscus Masłowski' in the end panels and contains a Persian de-
sign format of two compartments. These two compartments filled with Polish lo-
cal flowers in a radial arrangement are adopted from Słuck designs.

Although some distance from Poland, the name of Jakub Paschalis and possibly
those of Franęois Selimand or S. Felisjean became associated with the manufacture
of kontusz sashes in Lyon. The initials 'FS' appearing sideways and 'PI,' woven
into six sashes indicate their French origin.14 Based on the design and technical
characteristics that distinguish the sashes with these inscriptions from a group that

14 The inscription 'FS' with the letters arranged sideways initially was read in many
ways, for example as the initials of S. Filsjean or Franciszek Selimand or initials
originating from inscription 'ME FECIT SLUCIAE,' used in Słuck. Finding several
samples with identical inscriptions in a collection of silks of the Prellle company in
Lyon proved that sashes with such inscriptions were attributable to the French manu-
facturer. See discussion in Taszycka, 1994.

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