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Biedrońska-Słotowa, Beata
Crossroads of costume and textiles in Poland: papers from the International Conference of the ICOM Costume Committee at the National Museum in Cracow, September 28 - October 4, 2003 — Krakau, 2005

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https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.22262#0093

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Mrs Titus Salt 'At Home'

vet slashed with pale blue satin; the
second and third brothers were
courtiers of the court of Louis XVI of
France, although the youngest changed
to become a Cairo merchant later in the
evening. Two gentlemen considered
their own formal clothes to be ąuite
dressed-up enough; one wore his col-
ourful uniform as a Deputy Lieutenant
of the County and the senior judge
dressed as for a levee at court.

The object of the party, Mary Isabel
Salt, came as 01ivia Primrose, in white
flowered brocade over a lilac silk petti-
coat, and with a large black picture hat
with white feathers. Her mother, the
hostess, decided to be 'Mary, Queen of
Scots', then a very popular romantic
heroinę, thanks mainly to the novels of
Sir Walter Scott. Mary Stuart, Queen of
Scotland, was a possible claimant to the
English throne, and in the eyes of some
had a better claim than Elizabeth I.
Elizabeth, therefore, had her arrested and
imprisoned when political upheaval in
Scotland caused Mary to seek refuge in
England, and after 18 years as a prisoner
she was executed in February 1587.

Fig. 2

Mary Stuart portrait miniaturę after Nicholas
Hilliard, now in the National Portrait Gal-
lery in London, interpreted by Mrs Salt, as
photographed at the time

Mary Stuart probably looked the way she is showed in a slightly later portrait mini-
aturę after Nicholas Hilliard and now in the National Portrait Gallery in London.
Fig. 2 shows how Mrs Salt interpreted it, as photographed at the time. I would guess
that she was pleased with the effect, to have gone to this trouble and expense.

The dress itself is made of gold-coloured cotton brocade, blue cotton sateen and
cream, probably originally white, silk chiffon, the whole trimmed with cords, fur and
huge pearl beads (Figs. 3-5). It was worn with a stiffened girdle of the brocade, from
which hangs a fur-framed mirror, and with a velvet cap edged with beads and with
an almost floor-length silk chiffon veil at the back. It is made as a separate bodice
and skirt. It laces up the front with blue cord, and all the trimming is sewn in - the
lace is part of the dress, and not an undergarment. Inside it is just what one might
imagine for 1895, with lots of boning and neatly oversewn curved seams to give the
shape. The string of large pearl beads which loop across the skirt is sewn in here too.

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