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CH. xv.

ATT^^AtD (7^T<yA6'AyZAA.
^ Oc^o&er 5.—AVe were at the mouth of the port (of Serpho)
at six, hut since then have a good though not quite favourable
wind, and are perhaps one-third of the way to Spezzia. Serpho,
Kimolo, and Milo make a good view to the south, but still more
Anti-Milo, a round mountain rising from the sea, and exhibiting
its head above the clouds that hang round its central region.
This is no proof of height here, the clouds often sinking below
the tops of the most moderate-sized islands. I have now done
with the Cyclades ; I have seen Naxia, which is universally
acknowledged to be the finest and most picturesque, and Tino,
which is cried up as the most civilised and best cultivated. I
doubt, however,whether Zea is not entitled to the second place on
the list; and Andros also is certainly a hne island. Their general
character, as I well knew before, is that of barren hills. I ex-
pected plains on the coast, as at Cos and Rhodes. These I did
not hnd, but the industry shown in cultivating the hills far
exceeded my expectations, which were equalled by the beauty of
the valleys in Tenos and Naxos. A person who goes without
undue expectations will be much pleased with the Cyclades, and
almost all the information to be had from books will tend to guide
them right. I know not, indeed, from whence has originated
the opinion that these islands are the most perfect specimens
of beauty, fertility, and felicity ; but such an opinion I hnd very
general, and accompanied among travellers with strong ex-
pressions of disappointment and disgust. The ancients, how-
ever, as far as I know, have always spoken of them more con-
temptuously than they deserve.
N^crot ep)yp.atot Tpd^ea y^oros, a xeAade^os
Z^cr-r^p Arychou xd/^aros Aro? eyet, &c.
Siphnos, Seriplros, Gyros, and Polygandros, in particular, are
perfect bywords among the Greeks and Romans for rugged-
ness and sterility/
On his return from the Cyclades Mr. Elphinstone again
passed through the Morea on his way to Olympia. Ibrahim's
 
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