Edwards, Amelia B.: A thousand miles up the Nile (New York, [1888])

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Edwards, Amelia B.
A thousand miles up the Nile — New York, [1888]

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https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.4393#0011

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Titelblatt

II_Titelblatt

A THOUSAND MILES … Like some grave, mighty thought, threading a dream." … A. L. BURT, PUBLISHER.

Preface to the first edition

III

Ampere has put Egypt in an epigram. " A donkey ride … —was the one vessel best constructed for the navigation of

IV

is expensive, leisurely, delightful; the other is cheap, swift, … ruary; very warm in March and April. The climate of

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subject grows with the book, and with the knowledge one … if not actually to original sources (which would be the … consider time spent; and I have yet to thank the friends … surely not least among the glories of learning that those … people are much less changed in Egypt than we of the

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whom we know so well in tlie wall paintings of the tombs.

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essential features the painted galleys represented in the … they shut us off from the simplicity of that early world. … been resident in Cairo, and who was well acquainted with the

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ever, and while writing this book, I have been led on step … for the little that it is worth. … than they were some thirty or forty years ago; but the … the learned and to the general reader.

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discovered past of Egypt. In its narrower sense, the

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an engraving from Lis picture. It tells its own tale; or … The secret of the sphinx.

Preface to the second edition

XI

TO THE SECOND EDITION.

Contents

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CAIRO AND THE GREAT PYRAMID. … CAIRO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE. … Departure for the Nile Voyage—Farewell to Cairo—Turra— … The Palms of Memphis—Three Groups of Pyramids—The M. … The Rule of the Nile—The Shadfif—Beni Suef—Thieves hy

XIV

Sheik Cotton "—The Convent of the Pulley—A Copt—The … Christmas Day—The Party Completed—Christmas Dinner on … of Luxor—Poem of Pentaur—The Solitary Obelisk—In- … A Storm on the Nile—Ertnent—A Gentlemanly Bey—Esneh— … The Black Governor—An Enormous Blunder—Tannhiiuser

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THE CATARACT AND THE DESERT. … Pharaoh's Bed—The Temples—Champollion's Discovery—The … Nubian Scenery—A Sand-slope—Missing Yusef—Trading by … Fine Art of the Thothmes—Derr—A Native Funeral- … Youth of Rameses the Great—Treaty with the Kheta—His … The Colossi—Portraits of Rameses the Great—The Great Sand-

XVI

THE SECOND CATABACT. … Society at Abou Simbel—The Painter Discovers a Rock-cut … Again—Wady Sabooah—-Haughty Beauty—A Nameless … Shooting the Cataract—Ivora Ombo—Quarries of Silsilis—Edfu … Tombs of Thebes—The Ramesseum—The Granite Colossus

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CONTENTS. xv a … Last Weeks on tlie Nile—Spring in Egypt—Ninety-nine in tlie … I- A. McCallum, Esq., to the Editor of The Times.......... 447

List of Illustrations

XVIII

The Secret of tlie Sphinx. After a Painting by Elihu Ved- … The Suadtif............................................... 69 … Cartouches of Rameses the Great........................... 237 … Temple of Amada (Wall Inscription)........................ 313

I: Cairo and the Great Pyramid

1

A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … m Cairo for the winter. The other half, it may be taken … the new-comer's first impulse is to inquire from what … business; distinguishes at first sight between a Cook's … for a holiday ; special correspondents alert for gossip ;

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2 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … might turn aside into the Burlington Arcade or the … tember for a few weeks' sketching in central France, we

3

CAIRO AND THE GREAT PYRAMID. 3 … But what had memory to do with rains on land, or … and amber dates. It was a still, warm morning. Grave … one should begin in Cairo with a day in the native bazaars; … turbaned group is a ready-made picture. The old Turk

4

4 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … white, with chocolate stripes a foot wide, and head-shawl … keys ; native women of the poorer class, in black veils that … from under fantastic head-dresses; blue-black Abyssinians … of complexion from fair to dark, from tawny to copper-

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CAIRO AND THE GREAT PYRAMID. 5 … tassels, and fringes. Such a donkey as this is worth from … dered waistcoat and fluttering white tunic, Hies a native

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6 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … all sizes and prices. lie sells nothing else, and has not only a … Here, too, the tobacco merchant sits behind a huge cake … Another turn or two, and you are in the slipper bazaar,

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CAIRO AND THE GREAT PYRAMID. 1 … Damascus saddle-bags, and Turkish prayer-carpets. The … ing-shelf beside the doorway of a dilapidated khan, the

8

8 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … cution, but rich and ancient designs. As for the merchants … But the bazaars, however picturesque, are far from being

9

constantly to turn our steps and our thoughts in the direc- … The same may be said of their captains, with the same dif- … or captain, displays the certificates given him by former … not do; so that the boats which lay yesterday alongside … the cataract, and boats that can't; boats that are only twice … heard before, afford as yet no kind of help to the

10

10 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … led a miserable life. Meanwhile, however, we met some … One of our first excursions was, of course, to the pyramids,

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CAIRO AND THE GREAT PYRAMID. 11 … definite idea. The. most careful study of plans and … a big cairn.

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12 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Having but one hour and forty minutes to spend on the

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the length of one side, climbed to the top, and learned the … inches higher than the cross on the" top of St. Paul's and … from Mean. … For the height, Mr. Petrie, after duly weighing all data, such as

14

14 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … well content, nevertheless, with the way in which our … They are naturally vivacious and very talkative ; yet the

II: Cairo and the Mecca Pilgrimage

15

CAIRO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE. … tectural style out of the heterogeneous elements of Roman

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le A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the old, no matter how venerable, are allowed to molder

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quadrangle, open to the sky and inclosed within lofty walls,

18

IS A THOUSAND MILES UP THIS NILE. … Presently a tiny brown and golden bird perched with

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CAIRO AND THE MEGGA PILGRIMAGE. 19 … any other landmark. It is a spacious, costly, gaudy, com- … numerable cut-glass chandeliers, so that it looks like a … * Now, seventy-seven years ago; the first edition of this book

20

20 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE, … As we came away, they showed us the place in which the … member the order of our sight-seeing in Cairo, for the … These Arabs, by the way, are excellent whips, and the

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CAIRO AND THE MECCA PJLGliLVAOE. 21 … children astride upon the right shoulder, swarthy … their aid to celebrate the most solemn festivals of his

22

22 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … green pennants. After these had gone by there was a long … before they arrived in sight, came the howling dervishes—

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CAIRO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE. 23 … This very reverend personage was closely followed by the

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24 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … The men, both horse and foot, seemed fair average speci- … It had seemed, while the procession was passing, that

25

CAIRO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE. 25 … A long time went by thus. At last, when the number

26

2G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … remained as if suspended in mid-air. Still the frenzy

27

CAIRO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE. 27 … At that moment the leader came over, knelt down beside … those ready-made subjects that the sketcher passes by with … originally too short, have been stilted on dispropor-

28

28 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … seen it for this reason, if for no other. 13nt it is a barren, … sheiks on magnificent Cairo asses, officers in frogged and

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CAIRO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE. 29 … these, however, I observed none of the rarer varieties. As … neath a mantle of crimson stars, some of which cannot

30

3() A TltOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … But the difficulties were all over now and everything … travelers. One of these three was already known to the

31

OAIliO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE. 31

III: Cairo to Bedreshayn

32

32 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … A rapid raid into some of the nearest shops for things … visitors to luncheon on board at midday; and we are to

33

And now we are on board and have shaken hands with … us "bon voyage" and good-by. Then the M. B.'s, who,

34

34 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

35

limestone comes out dazzling white and the long slopes of

36

30 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE.

37

door led into a passage out of which opened four sleeping- … Another door and passage opening from the upper end

38

38 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … cheerfully from sunrise to sunset, sometimes towing the

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make it themselves at certain places along the river where … inferiors, is too often of light weight and bad quality. The

40

40 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE. … extremity rather than break the law of their prophet. … Also it is systematically spoiled in the growing. Instead … on shore without a tobacco-pouch and a tiny book of

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A Nile sailor's service expires with the season, so that he … the summer months, while it lies up at Bonlak. Ee'is … came a prolonged wail that swelled, and sank, and swelled

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42 A THOUSAND MILES UP TIIE NILE.

IV: Sakkarah and Memphis

43

moored for the night, we were roused early next morning … up to the village for twenty-five, intending, perhaps with

44

44 A. THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE. … like ragged banner poles, stand up at intervals among the … in such a scene and but little beauty. On the contrary,

45

No two are of precisely the same size, or built at precisely … boys, porters and miscellaneous hangers-on, number nearer

46

46 A THOUSAND MILES UP THIS NILE. … all in one. And, besidos all this, he is gifted with a comic … brought up on pyramids from his earliest childhood.

47

the whole plateau is thickly'strewn with scraps of broken … dried-up sponge. Presently some one picks up a little … now for the first time we realize that every inch of this … than would have befitted a gang of professional body-

48

48 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … magnitude. If Egyptologists are right in ascribing the … hundred according to the computation of Bunsen. One's … Europe, are unknown, it is not to be supposed that a few

49

Wilkinson describes the interior ;is " a hollow dome

50

50 A THOUSAND MILES UP TIIE NILE. … the excavation neared the end of the avenue, the causeway, … f For an excellent and exact account of tbe Serapeum and the

51

the solid rock on which the temples were built. These

52

52 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Having gone on thus for a distance of nearly two hun-

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From this point the corridor branches off for another … than from thirteen to fourteen feet in length; and all are … the live hundred votive tablets before mentioned, which, … It is a curious fact that one out of the three inscribed

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54 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … M. About, who professes to have had the story direct from … two hundred yards more between ourselves and the light

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yawns an open pit some twenty-five feet in depth, with a … :l kind husband, too, and a good father, and loved to … Walk out together and look on while the farm-servants are

56

56 A THOUSAND MILES DP THE NILE. … about eight times as large as bis servants, sits and stands a

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coloring, however, is purely decorative; and, being laid on … the course of the journey, removes

58

58 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … How pleasant it was, after being suffocated in the Sera-

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tled at a glance by Professor Owen.*

60

CO A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Thinking over these things by the way, we agree that … Ti, with town-houses at Memphis and villas by the Nile. … And now we are once more in the midst of the palm-

61

woods, threading our way among the same mounds that … against the foot of one or two of the mounds; but one … in among the trees; and in front of one of these we find … lar semicircle on the sward, they seem to sit in forlorn

62

G2 A THOUSAND MUMS UP THIS NILE. … ■—a few huge rubbish-heaps, a dozen or so of broken

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to be inhabited up to the time of the Arab invasion. It

64

04 A. THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

82 V: Bedreshayn to Minieh

65

It is the rule of the Nile to hurry up the river as fast as … way only is it piossible to trace the progression and retro-

66

G6 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … contrary to custom need a certain amount of insistance … them; but he sets it down to a habit of harmless curiosity— … get rid of obstacles—to put the right thing in the right … without the added puzzlement of being read backward.

67

day in the same place. This, too, with the favorable wind … The M. B.'s being of the same mind, however, we had … Egypt, but without having any definite ideaof the process.

68

G8 A T110 USAND MILES UP THE NILE. … That morning, still tracking, we pass the pyramids of … \ The shfuliif bias been so well described by the Eev. F. B. Zincke

69

stooping and rising, stooping and rising, with the regu- … require another shadoof to be worked in the trough into which the

70

70 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE.

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the mosque become gradually crowded with lookers on. … stately steps, as if each ponderous vessel were a crown. … and said with a magnificent melodramatic air: "If they

72

72 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … finger and finished with a hook at one end and a twisted … came down the river about noon, showing like a yellow fog … This lasted just one hour, and was followed by a burst of

73

once more got under way. It was delightful to see the big … high along the edge of the precipitous bank, its odd-look-

74

74 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … medans; lie has two wives; he never does a stroke of work; … We are by this time drawing toward a range of yellow

75

past and now rolls on in undulating drifts to the water's … in a borrowed blanket, is allowed to come on board. lie … And this is a Copt; a descendant of the true Egyptian

76

76 A THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE. … possible to look at him without a feeling of profound in- … we give him a shilling or two for the sake of all that he … And now the convent with its clustered domes is passed

77

eight, minutes, a vast arch of deep-bine shade, about … but it lacks the variety and gorgeousness of our northern … unknown, and in Egypt are of the rarest occurrence. … from the mountains to the sky, we had repeatedly observed

78

78 A THOUSAND MILKS UP TilE NILE.

79

legged like shabby old idols in shabby old shrines—the … one fell swoop— the native cook's shop exhaling savory … wheat, and dura. The women go to and fro with bouquets … one pays in Middle and Upper Egypt for a lamb. A good … vision, bargaining fluently in Arabic, and escorted by a

80

80 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … lar, with long forked stems, each of which terminates in a … with all the fervor of divination, and delivered a string of … It was just the old familiar story, retold in Arabic, with- … of the country, or that, being brought unexpectedly into … have been present in the streets and market-place from ten

81

was blind of an eye. Not being a particularly well-favored … as forty per cent of the whole infant population should

82

82 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … fore, in all this part of the river, not only to hire guards … hours earlier than their train was supposed to be due, the … f Miss Whately, whose evidence on tins subject is peculiarly valu-

VI: Minieh to Siut

83

It is Christmas day. The M. B.'s are coming to … and laughing, and hammering ! Nor is the bustle con-

84

84 A TITO USAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Nothing could be prettier or gayer than the spectacle

85

and our fantasia ended with a blaze of light, like a pan- … times panting, we go on day by day, making what speed … Meanwhile, the skies are always cloudless, the days … nasties. The sparrows and water-wagtails perch familiarly

86

86 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

87

athletes; the file of laden camels; the desert, all sand-hills … the water's edge; or, sailing close under ranges of huge … mined by water-washed caverns in which lurk a few linger- … not unlike the Hebrew, llecords they are, too, of pre-

88

88 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … approached from above; others again come close upon the … than half-way, along the whole length of the range I … again, but without success; [or the intense midday sun was

89

then pouring full upon the rocks, to the absolute oblitera-

90

90 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … It was, I think, toward the afternoon of this second … roll it up that steep incline to a point beyond the level of

91

like devotion to the matter in hand, one sees how subtle a … if only because other people do so, or to get rid of a trouble-

92

92 -A- THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … drawn mirage than a piece of the world Ave live in. … whether it was ever more than three miles distant as the

93

beeyah moored than Kei's Hassan and the steersman started … from Siut. There is a whole street of such pottery here in

94

94 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … A lofty embanked road planted with fine sycamore figs … and withering in the sun.

95

the huge portal. A circular hole in the threshold marks … J; Some famous tombs of very early date, enriched with the same

96

9(i A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … elements in one common mold, reverts persistently to the

97

marriages, that after the third generation the foreign blood … animals; and Siut was called Lycopolis by the Greeks*

98

98 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … all events, lie at least two hundred and fifty miles to the … Still, one would like to believe a story that laid the

VII: Siut to Denderah

99

We started from Siut with a couple of tons of new … had almost always one man on the sick list, and were … and her roll of lint and bandages, soon had a small but … helpless and despondent when hurt, and ignorant of the

100

100 4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … was something very pathetic in the simple faith with which … a few simple cures, rose high among the crew. They called … Above Siut, the picturesqueness of the river is confined … tombs, but which look like loop-holes from a distance. … chers, flit past and are left behind. To-day we enter the

101

tance a couple of hours ago is reached and passed. The

102

102 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … ceive it—swarms of brown fellaheen are stacking it on

103

who, naked and unwashed, has sat on that same spot … ing on charity not only for his food but for his feeding! … they cry. "Fain would we kiss thy hand; but the wind … sign of hearing, and in a few minutes the mound on which … and piles of broken pottery divided the ruins and made

104

104 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … spiritualized. The amber sheen of the sand-island in the

105

middle of the river, the sober green of the palm-grove, the … aurora of the east. But the sun had nothing to do with

106

106 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the land is not sufficiently irrigated the crops fail and the … from his native village. What to him are the needs of a

107

into the mouth of his ideal fellah. "It is not the em- … order, according to the map; but then the temples lie … wo had to steer our course as best we could. Presently the … mous— showing from this distance as a massive, low-

108

108 A THOUSAND Ml LBS UP TUB NIL B. … buried in rank grass—upon a series of stagnant niter-tanks

109

the Nurse of Horus, the Egyptian Aphrodite, to whom … We were by this time near enough to see that the square

110

HO A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … face-sculpture tend in any way to diminish the general … * The names of Augustus, Caligula, Tiberius, Domitian, Claudius,

111

latest ovals the name and style of Nero, the present build- … the edict of The- … during the pros- … in the precints … A dromos, now … fect as on the day when ils splendor was given over to the

112

112 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … reproduced in the annexed engraving. Cleopatra is here … every eight or ten weeks. The Nubian girls fasten each … and portraiture begins in a work of this epoch. AVe can-

113

It is not without something like a shock that one first … silence and mystery. A heavy, death-like smell, as of … explore those depths with a party of fellow-travelers: but

114

114 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … decorations, we wander round and round; going on from … weeks past—we have studied the plan of the temple … which hedged in with inviolable secrecy the solemn rites of

115

were brought out, paraded along the corridors of the … berless legends of the gods ; chronologies of kings with

116

116 A THOUSAND MILES UP TILE NILE. … abundant harvests, victory, and the love of his people. … ever, sees in them something more than the language of

117

detects the language of the schools, and discovers in the

118

118 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … are full of minute and interesting detail. In one of the

119

Finally, we take the staircase on the northern side of the … We have hitherto been tracing in their order all the

120

120 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … We ought to have gone down by way of the opposite … shot replies from near by; a wandering light appears in … Musa, "black but comely"—they were all there. What a

VIII: Thebes and Karnak

121

Coming on deck the third morning after leaving Den- … ings, which he only wore on very great occasions. … puted the charge of bashfulness, said: "Luxor—kharuf*— … allusion to the promised sheep, we could hardly have be- … tries to show us Medinet llabu and the Memnonium. The

122

122 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … The top of another pylon; the slender peak of an obelisk;

123

A THOUSAND MILES HP THE NILE. … Thebes, I need scarcely say, was built, like London, on … The secular city, which was built of crude brick, is repre- … on each side of the central gateway, sit two helmeted

124

colossi, battered and featureless and buried to the chin, … sculptures of gods and men, horses and chariots, the pa- … the Great. His actual names and titles as they stand upon … The battle scenes here represented relate to that memor- … the Past," vol ii.

125

children screaming for backshish; the dealers exhibiting … "This Prince of Wales donkey I" shouts a third, haul- … in our eyes just now, comjiared with the letters we hope to … noon ; to cross to Medinct Ilabu and the Bamesseum* to- … with the Memnonium of Strabo and the tomb of Osymandias as

126

126 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … in the battle.* … house of Eameses in the city of Amnion."

127

So stately was the approach made by Barneses the Great … rection before the gates of the temple, were magnificent

128

128 A. THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

129

we find the pure lines, the severe and slender forms, the … * The ruins of the great Temple of Luxor have undergone a com-

130

130 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … rid of, about eight or ten only refusing to leave at any price. The

131

complimentary message on the outer wrapper, such as … Luxor the 1st January 1874.

132

132 -4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the thresholds of two or three dismal dens of cafes in the … quite beautiful in her blackness, compared with the paint-

133

as extensive, apparently, as the ruins of a large town. … reached from Luxor to Karnak. Taking into account the

134

134 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … remembering ; and the great hall of Karnak is photo-

135

there—not all at once, as in a picture; but bit by bit, as … sacred beasts, and emblems of wisdom and truth. The … and thirty-four columns, of which the central twelve stand sixty-two

136

136 A THOUSAND.MILKS UP THE NILE. … weird when the great roof was in its place and perpetual … of these huge window-frames yet contain the solid stone … be repeated, that the great hall at Karnak is the noblest

137

doorway, these columns, are the wonder of the world. … It may be that the traveler who finds himself for the … who founded the Temple of Luxor and set up the famous … And now, would it not be strange if we knew the name

138

138 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … tions, would seem as if they could only belong to the Hy-

139

forgotten Bramante, but who was also the Ictinus of the … sacerdotal processions, and elaborate chronicles of the … small outlying temples we saw in the course of that rapid

IX: Thebes to Assuan

140

140 A THOUSAND MILES UP TEE NILE. … Hurrying close upon the serenest of Egyptian sunsets … A light but fitful breeze helped us on next day as far as

141

of ceremony from the bey—a tall, slender, sharp-featured,

142

142 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

143

crews bake for the last time before their return to Egypt. … all the common sights and sounds of a native market. Here … escort, added some thundering blows with his staff and a

144

144 A TIIOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … upon a dozen voices were raised to assure me that the Bir-

145

The general effect and the main features of the plan are

146

146 A TIIO USAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Two singular little erections, built in between the … and, if I remember rightly, a small square window in the … tion can point out to what extent it underlies the founda-

147

bronzes and statues may here await the pick of the ex-

148

148 4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … tasted. In vain I say "Bismillah" (in the name of God); … " By my prophet!" said he, "am I a pig or a dog, that

149

able, that one might wear without the fear of breaking … To this he replied by declaring that he had made the … hands. I made them but the other day. By Allah! they … crack before a month is over. The sitt would do better … air of the most engaging candor, "these scarabs were

150

150 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … cnes; and what man or nation need hope for a much better

151

spends but half a year on the Nile may, if he takes an in- … feh! Silence, Ali!") Talhamy would say from time to time. … But you could as easily keep a monkey from chattering … riyill" (lialf-a-dollar), "ethneen shilling" (two shillings), … It was about midday when we passed El Kab, the ancient

152

152 A- THOUSAND MILES UP TEE NILE.

153

flesh—especially flesh on the Nile—is heir to, wo quickly … are as eager to win as if a great prize depended on it.

154

154' A THOUSAND MILES TIP THE NILE. … and Edfii; and that the good wind is still blowing.

155

dwindled to seven. It is plain to see, however, that as the … miles from our destination. … five, but four. The Fostat, thanks to her bigger sail, has

156

15G A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NIL EL … the iron boat, shaving the sand-bank to get a wider berth,

X: Assuan and Elephantine

157

The green Island of Elephantine, which is about a mile … high and dry, and half heeled over, in the sun. Others,

158

158 A. THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … goods at arm's length, battle and implore to come on board, … solid from the tusk, porcupine quills, baskets of stained … ubiquitous goblin, and throws every competitor into the

159

For to the Nubian, who grows his own plants and bruises … his food are redolent of it. It pervades the very air in … scented the Phila3 for the rest of the voyage and retains its … We received our guests with due ceremony in the saloon.

160

1G0 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Aerated lemonade and cigars were then brought. The … animated expression of countenance, while the civilities on … the entertainment flagged.

161

The governor, looking very grave, was the first to speak. … Now, we had been told in Cairo, on excellent authority, … The governor, the kadi and the mudir shook their heads, … we desired neither the gratification of an idle curiosity, … The governor saw, and witli the best grace in the world … There was even a shade of disappointment in the tone of

162

162 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Now it chanced that he had pitched upon a volume of … Leaving the cabin, he paused to look at our roses, which … We suggested that the climate was probably too hot for

163

The question gave us a kind of shock. We could hardly … Erment. And he had never seen a rose in bloom. … Friday bending under a load of faggots. They are all … and had just been destroyed to build a palace and barracks

164

164 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … oil and cotton plants, lentils, and durra, make green the

165

these illegible scrawls, of the importance they were shortly … For the Egyptians, it seems, used potsherds instead of … collected on the frontier during the period of Roman rule … These barren memoranda are not the only literary curiosities found … Note to Second Edition.—Other fragments of "Iliad" have

166

160 4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

167

By far the most amusing sight in Assuan was the traders' … Nubians the color of a Barbedienne bronze ; and natives … doubt of piled-up bales and packing-cases, like a spider in … matting, strewed the sandy bank. Of gum-arabic alone there … A hole scooped in the sand, a couple of stones to support

168

108 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … carved in ebony; Dantes unembittered by the world,

169

of the desert, and (bearing in mind the probable inferiority … Now the lying down and getting up of a camel are … damaged in his spine, the luckless novice receives four dis- … joints and more trying than his temper. He has four : a

170

170 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … likewise. It was a solemn moment when, having chosen … lowing at the heels of our camels and Salame performing … to back on cairns of loose stones, or piled in broken and

171

slopes and to go wandering off, like lost Israelites, into the … the under-cutting has never been done and that it is

172

172 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … as at Turra and Silsilis; but the process by which the stone … Flinders Petrie, chap, ii, pp. 22 et seg., published by the Egypt Ex-

173

was the largest detached statue in the world, must each … their reception; and, being saturated with water, split the … Passing by the way a tiny oasis where there were camels … nified our intention of making for the top of the nearest … forward, and, still dissatisfied, insisted on attacking a

174

174 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … The last hill was very steep and stony; but the view … Presently, a group of three or four black figures,

175

and the worthy man, having spent the day in Assuan … that they found the pace difficult. Such is the moral in-

XI: The cataract and the desert

176

176 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the ribbed hollow of a tiny sand-drift, there circling above … dangerous; and to that labyrinth the shellalee, or cataract … for some five months of the year, his principal industry.

177

THE CATARACT AND THE DESERT. 177 … the wildness of the waters, by the quaint forms of the … again are mere cairns of loose blocks, with here and there a … of yesterday's cutting, start out here and there from those … who really desire to got the utmost pleasure, instruction, and interest

178

178 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Meanwhile the sheik of the cataract — a flat-faced,

179

THE CATARACT AND THE DESERT. 179 … the performance against a still stronger current a little … moored for the night in the pool at the top of the first … not a man appeared upon the scene. At about midday … Our painter therefore undertook to remonstrate with the

180

180 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … there was a governor at Assuan to whom we should appeal … Now the painter, being of a practical turn, had compiled … as to the energy of his style or the vigor of his language. … never see Abou Simbel now—never write our names on … morning at sunrise appeared the sheik of the cata-

181

THE (JAT All ACT AND THE DESERT. 181 … The dragoman vowed that he had never seen Nubians … come to be included in the brief catalogue of their daily

182

182 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … clustered together in hollows, there perched separately on … the sands—of water-washed bowlders of crimson, and … children like live bronzes—of these, and a hundred other … the places are something more than beautiful backgrounds, … nestled in the hollow of a little bay; half-islanded in the

183

THE CARARAGT AND THE DESERT. 183 … matting, crowd the sandy shore. It is Assuan over again, … from end to end of that huge furrow and not see that it was

184

184 A 'THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … meters (twenty-six feet eight inches) higher than the highest level to

185

TEE OARARACT AND THE DESERT. 185 … the facts speak for themselves. The great channel is … was slung with two loads, one at either side of the hump.

186

186 A THOUSAND MILES UP TEE NILE.

187

THE CARARACT AND THE DESERT. 18?

XII: Philiae

188

188 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE MLR … with only an occasional glimpse of its towers in the dis-

189

every stone of it, and the platform on which it stands, and

190

100 A THOUSAND MILES, UP THE NIL a. … and capricious grouping, here take the place of massive- … which at first sight looked no less perfect than the towers, … We enter the inner court — an irregular quadrangle

191

sculptures of Egypt. It may represent one of the two … inscription de la stele est en langue grecque et comprend 04 lignes. … ignorce an moment ou la stele a ete decouverte. Qui ne voit l'utilite

192

102 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … sion; but, taken in connection with a precisely similar … Jusqu'a lui, on avait cru que cbacune des lettres qui composent … Ptolemee, on recontre a l'endroit correspondant du texte Egyptien un … seconde inscription grecque gravee sur une obelisque de Philaj, que … nouveaux. Enfin, applique a d'autres cartouches, l'alphabet encore

193

This second inscription is cut upon the face of a block … poser les fondements de cette belle science qui a pour objet ('inter- … ducting his excavations at San (Tanis) in 180o. It dates from the

194

19-t A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … would like to linger over; as, for instance, the capitals of … goes for nothing, however, in presence of the reality ; and

195

sleep for a hundred years. The bas-reliefs on the walls, … A more instructive and delightful task than the copying of these

196

196 ■&■ THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … but two large convents on the eastern bank a little higher

197

rude Byzantine carvings, the Greek cross is again con- … To obtain that permission and perform the pilgrimage to … concerning the river above that point; and he relates that

198

198 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … stone, so to say—having been scratched on the yet un-

199

were still in occupation of the island and still celebrating … At length, however, there must have come a day when

200

200 A. THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … word or two give a more human interest to the autograph. … in the days of Abbot Theodore and his flock. The little ba-

201

monks installed themselves in that row of cells on the east … and only a ruined convent perched here and there upon … verted into 13) the Pilak of the hieroglyphic inscriptions

202

202 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … dition to the usual tribute of dates, cotton, slaves and … they used to keep up "a brisk and well-directed fire." … at Cairo in 1817, and Chainpollion's discovery was not given to the

203

One poor old man—if indeed he still lives—is now the one … reliefs. Mysterious passages, pitch-dar.k, thread the thick- … | See previous note, p. 181.

204

204 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … of alien faith, be his rejnite or station what it might; a … This roof is an intricate, up-and-down place, and the … dans le rleuve, le dieu ressuscitait d'entre les morts et apparaissait a … restres. Non seulement il devient son guide, mais il s'identifie a … de la supreme justice et ouvre a l'ame drclaree pure les portes

205

sera la symbols de cette seconde naissance a une vie qui, cette fois, … Monuments a Boulaq"—Aug. Jlariette Bey, 1873, pp. 105 et zeq.

206

206 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Osiris Onnofris appartient a la classe des dieux generaux qui ne sont … l'Histoire des Religions," 1888. [Note to second edition.]

207

drosses peculiar to the god; his legs and feet lie in a pylon- … terra-cotta, and even wood, were destined to bold the soft part or … T Thus depicted, he is called " the germinating Osiris." [Note to

208

a08 A THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE.

209

way straight across from Phila?. Last of all, forming the … themselves up from below in masses suggestive of primitive

210

210 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … of these are older by a thousand years and more than the … which the objective and subjective features are so equally

XIII: Philiae to Korosko

211

Sailing gently southward — the river opening wide … entirely the population seems to be regulated by the extent … ■—men laboring by the river side; women with babies

212

212 A TIIO USAND MILES UP THE NILE. … These golden sand-streams are the newest and most

213

was standing at 80° in the coolest corner of the large … as any of them. The sand lies wonderfully loose and … and shadows. There lives not the sculptor who could … rock about half-way up, we came at length to the top of

214

214 A THOUSAND MILES UP 1'HE NILE. … sisted, were but a shade less poor than herself. … And now, being fortunate in respect of the wind, which

215

got in a land where every green blade is precious to the … the desert; looking for onyxes and carnelians among the … are not too heavy nor napoleons too light for them. The

216

21G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … When on board, we begin now to keep a sharp lookout … day upon a sand island, some ten miles higher up. Mr. … the pylons of Dabdd with their background of desert;

217

change in the atmospheric conditions under which we live. … famous a constellation.

218

21S A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … bursting; others ranging apparently from one thousand to

219

The painter, with an eye to foregrounds, made a bid for … the offer.

XIV: Korosko to Abou Simbel

220

220 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … It so happened that we arrived at Korosko on the eve of

221

Landing from time to time when the boat was close in … Not a weed was to be seen; not an inch of soil appeared to … Here also, for the first time out of Egypt, we observed … just about to turn back when we caught sight of the ducks

222

222 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the history of the art, and gives us the best of … scribed; yet within those bounds he still enjoys a certain

223

II, returning from his first campaign against the Ruten, … blue upon the horizon. As the sun sets they seem to

224

224 4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … We landed. Before us lay an open space, at the farther

225

woman, bearing strange voices talking a strange tongue,

226

226 A TIIOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … We stood for a long time watching their uncouth dance. … saw none given—the wailing ceased; the women rose; every

227

animated, noisy throng dispersing in a dozen different … the governor'of Asstian had not reported over-favorably of … youth, it lias been handed down from generation to genera-

228

228 -4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … because more rare—is a sculptured palm-tree against which

229

trunk is given with elaborate truthfulness; and the … We went and looked at his grave. The fresh-turned … gated pebbles. One or two were fenced about with a mud

230

230 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … All hands being safe on board, we pushed olf at once,

231

Moved once or twice by the lamentations of some dark … tions supply all Egypt with saplings and contribute a … Being obliged to moor a few miles beyond Derr and having

232

232 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

233

Arabic land is too valuable in Nubia for either the living to … be seen in the southern face of the mountain. They are, … scarcely worth the trouble of a visit. … -Chen the palms ceased and the belt of cultivated land … bends in the river. … But the pilot shook his head and added: " Bukra" ("' to-

234

234 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … For our sailors, meanwhile, there was the excitement of … much less than a mile away, the four colossi came out,

235

with what they had seen from the river the rest of the

XV: Ramses the Great

236

236 A THOUSAND MILJSS UP THE NUM. … only to be made a posthumous usurper of glory, but to he

237

R AMESES THE Gil EAT. … helplessly through Westminister Abbey under the conduct … Rameses Ilf was the son of Seti I, the second Pharaoh

238

238 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … * See chap, viii, foot note, p. 126.

239

RAMESES THE GREAT. 239 … father upon the throne, and by the gradual retirement of … whereby the said prince and " Rameses, chief of rulers,

240

240 A 'THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE.

241

RAMESES THE GREAT. 241 … erect the most gorgeous and costly temples in which man … * Since this book was written, a further study of the subject has

242

242 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … canalize it, which is what she probably did. [Note to second

243

B AMESES THE GREAT. 243 … maniere on ne peut plus satisfaisante. Les Hebreux opprimes batis- … Ramses II regna on effet plus de 67 ans. Aussitot apres le retour do … pas de supposer que le roi eut sa residence a Thebes dans cet instant. … "II est impossible d'attribuer ni a- Meneptah I, ni it Seti II, ni a … pas que ce souverain a occupe les Hebreux a la construction de la ville

244

244 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … European savants than any archaeological event since the … divided by walls varying from eight to ten feet in thickness. … tres frequent Per-aa, 'la grande maison,' 'la haute porte,' qu'on a … This probably is the only title under which it was permissible for … translated in Genesis, 1. 4, where it is said that " when the days of

245

RAMESES THE GREAT. 245 … *This remarkable manuscript relates the journey made by a female

246

246 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … a letter on "Pithom-HeroOpolis" communicated to "The Academy" … *See M. Xaville's memoir, entitled "Goshen and the Shrine of … f Kadesh, otherwise Katesh or Kades. A town on the Orontes.

247

RAMESES THE GREAT. 247 … These invaluable letters, written on papyrus in the hie- … quon pent tirer de la transcription. Xeannioins. il y a lieu de prendre … l'assiniilation proposee—decouverte importante qu'il est a desirer de

248

248 -A- THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … f In a letter written by a priest who lived during this reign (Rame-

249

the quaint writing with which they are covered is as intel- … able.* From all these, we may be sure, were required … briques antiques a ete parfaitement reconnu. D'un autre cote, le … scription: ' Compte des macons, 12; en outre des homines a mouler … pedites par les ' chefs' on les ' intendants,' par les ' secretaires' et par

250

250 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Ethiopia under the nineteenth dynasty. His designs were … structures of surpassing magnificence. In Nubia, at the … de batisses d'apres l'ordre du Pharaon. Les carrieres, a partir de

251

dentally discovered under the mounds of Tel-el-Yahoodeh,* … the throne, we should, by help of this inscription, know … Marray is wrong, however, in attibuting the building to Kameses 11. … offered to Osiris by Kameses IV in the fourth year of his reign,

252

252 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … nothing to show that this youth of ten was, at the time … au soleil levant Iorsqu'il ('merge a l'horizon celeste. 11 porte la main … disputed fact of his actual sovereignty from early childhood, and so … O. Maspero. 4° Paris, 1807. See also chap, viii (foot note), p. 120.

253

would be that the stela of Dakkeh (dating as it does from

254

254 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE MLB. … flatterer should go so far as to credit a lad of thirteen with … Brugsch places the birth of Moses in the sixth year of

255

RAMESES THE GREAT. 255 … derneires six annees du regne de Menepthah; e'est a dire entre 1327 … self perish with his host, seems certain. The final oppression of the

256

256 A THOUSAND MTLES UP THE NILE. … by birth, must have been influenced to the act by Greek … lie not only states that Rameses the Great had, by his conquests, filled … quelles il dedie les temples. Le soleil de Ramses Mei/imoun qu'on

257

BAMESES THE GREAT. 257 … and offered up prayers to him, and regarded him as the

XVI: Abou Simbel

258

258 ■&■ THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … under the steep bank, and, without lifting one's head from

259

see the colossi properly. Standing between the rook and … "ulices, pouvaient deja. engager a la reporter vers la Basse Egypte. … bains." (See "Revue Archeologique, vol. ix, A. D. 1864.) In the

260

A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … heads with the accompanying profile

261

(From the soutkermost colossus, Abou Simbel.)

262

262 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE.

263

These were portrait statues; therefore they finished the … tion desdetails et des ornements a quelques sillons plus ou moins … Egyptiens d'entre prendre le travail a menie sur la pierre, sans avoir

264

2G4 -4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … mathomatiquement definitive. Ce proce'de' a toujours ete employ^ … M. Soldi is also of opinion that the Egyptian sculptors were igno-

265

some of Greek, some of Phoenician origin, tower so high

266

206 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … cree le soleil; le soleil, a son tour, est le createur des etres, animaux

267

facade of the great temple. Forever descending, drifting, … up (a. d. 1813). The top of the doorway was then thirty

268

2G8 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … When they were fairly gone and we had the marvelous

269

Varied turns of old Egyptian style upon the architraves … indicates a lofty philosophical standpoint, but as it reveals, perhaps,

270

270 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … To settle down then and there to a steady investigation

271

from without, now stumbling along by the light of a bunch … eyes like the incidents of a panorama. Here the king, … Nubians, so true to the type, so thick-lipped, flat-nosed and … blue complexion and towering plumes ; Maut wearing the … . Ka Harniachis, in Egyptian Ilar-em-Khou-ti, personifies the sun

272

M2 A THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE. … and contains over eleven hundred figures. Even the her- … pages. It is a picture-gallery in itself. It represents not

273

together an astonishing variety of incidents. The horses … this time-honored institution in full operation, the supe-

274

274 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … over with tiny chisel marks, which painfully confuse the … langes d'Aiolieologie," Egyp. and Assyr., vol. ii, p. 209. Also a

275

from which everything that does not immediately concern … de forme ordinaire, mais on remarque aussi dans leurs mains une

276

276 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE.

277

fro among these sculptured halls, like a shade among … There was something so weird and awful about the … "wo or three are surrounded by stone benches cut in the

278

278 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … found crypts in the thickness of the walls and recesses … Thus our days passed at Abou Simbel; the workers work-

279

with distinguished hospitality, killed a sheep in their … nous. As long as the Bagstones stayed, the two crews met … rumors that represented the second cataract as a populous

280

280 A- THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILS. … It took them three afternoons to complete the job; and

281

sumed I know not how many gallons a day. Our cook

282

282 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … It was a delightful time, however — delightful alike for

XVII: The Second Cataract

283

THE SECOND CATARACT. 283 … grapes. Others are twisted and writhen like the Vesuvian

284

284 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … similar in construction to that of Ibrim, still remains. The habita- … In a curious Arabic history of Nubia written in the tenth century … If Adwa and Adda are one and the same, it is possible that in this … absolutely certain from the tenor of a large stela sculptured on the

285

THE SECOND CATARACT. 285 … rock a few paces north of the smaller temple at Abou Simbel. This … al presente occulto a noi."—Kosellini Letterpress to " Monumenti

286

286 ■&■ THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … American friends would very properly call a "snag." … The painter, the idle man, the writer, were all on deck,

287

The pilot pointed to the cabin where L------and the little … We examined the object through our glasses. We … m about a year and a month.

288

288 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Egyptian buildings—once upon a time on the western bank

289

THE SECOND CATARACT. 289 … trees—can doubt which is the more picturesque. … but for the most part they record only the visits of the il- … tbis is the end of our journey. The cataract—an immense … still pools unbroken by a ripple ; everywhere full of life,

290

290 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … desolate, there is nothing really beautiful except the color. … the amber of the sands ; the pink and pearly mountains; … attempt it. And I feel now that any endeavor to put the … Ku'.'ln, would seem to be identical W'HU the A\i Bersi of Tiopsius.

291

THE SECOND CATARACT. 291 … one visit to the cataract. We saw no crocodiles, though … Like Achilles, the crocodile has but one vulnerable

292

292 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Having struggled with no little difficulty through the first

293

hours within the space of a mile, was run at last into a … thither by the wind. The tumuli, however, are mounded … the center of the mound, we at all events succeeded in … would repay a more systematic investigation.

294

294 A THOUSAND MILES UP TIIE NILE.

XVIII: Discoveries at Abou Simbel

295

We came back to find a fleet of dahabeeyahs ranged … We had now quite a gay time. The Phila? gave a dinner- … It was by comparing our watches with those of the

296

29G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … establish an arbitrary canon; so we called it seven when the … time of ours, that the southern cross was now visible every

297

Halfeh, and had remarked how fine the view must be from

298

298 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … All at once it flashed upon the painter that he had seen … " Pray come immediately—I have found the entrance to … and knees, as for bare life, under the burning sun. We had … And now, more than ever, we felt the need of in^flo-

299

DISCO VEBIES A T ABO U SIMBEL. 299

300

300 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … morning just the same, till midday. Our native con- … baskets, and a number of little slips of planking which,

301

D1SG0 VERIES A T ABO U SLVBEL. 301 … every morsel into our guest's august mouth, as if the said … tions, the poor man eat till he could eat no longer; then … him. lie tasted it, but immediately returned the cup, … thing; in L-----'s field-glass, in the painter's accordion, in

302

302 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … sorry not to have had a letter from you since you were … A model letter this; brief and to the point. … once more had the place to ourselves. So long as they … lady took their books and knitting there, and made a little

303

merits and surveyed the ground round about, especially … astounding as compared with the north, east, and west … for the moment he said nothing, but went on quietly dis- … ran to help in the work. Soon a second ami smaller skull … bv the

304

304 A. THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … a chance Nubian grave, and that the bowls (which at first

305

enabled completely to clear the landing, which was curi-

306

306 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … breadth by fourteen feet eight inches in length. The … cipal entrance facing the Nile, six feet; width of two side

307

post to which to tie one of the main ropes of his sketching- … 6. Stone hawks on pedestals. … formed part of the door, lay overturned against the side

308

A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILK … I have now to speak of the decorations of the adytum,

309

being divided from the next by a small sitting figure. … The west, or principal wall, facing … west, as one is so accustomed to regard the position of buildings paral-

310

310 A THOUSAND MILES UP TEE NILE. … are varieties of the Madonna in Italy or Spain. There was an Amen

311

clerful preservation of the surface enabled one to see by … "olds the jackal-headed … Barneses II; but the feat … the dictionaries derive from the Arabic al-kimia, may he traced back

312

312 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE. … The subjects represented on this wall are as follows: … made of steel, which, in the well known instance of the butcher's

313

the pile. … ___a … Note.—This inscription roads according to the

314

314 A THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE. … Ea-user-ma Sotep-en-Ea, as prince of every place where the … monuments forever facing the eastern horizon of heaven." … At the upper end of this wall is depicted a life-size … 1 M. Grehaut, in his translation of a hymn to Amen-Ka, observes: … * This inscription was translated for the first edition of this book … in celebration of each thirtieth anniversary of the accession of the

315

hero a portrait of Nefertari corresponding to the portrait

316

316 A THOUSAND MILES DP THE NILE. … lines, almost obliterated by the sand. … Enough, however, remains to show that the lines were

317

was sent hither to construct a road; also that he built … HIERATIC INSCRIPTION, … ■ • . thy son having . . . thou hast conquered the worlds

318

318 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

319

recess, as at Denderah. The standard of Horns Aroeris, … „„ ,ma>"- however, be represented on the north wall, where it is

320

320 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … pass that the place had remained hidden all these ages … have substituted their own cartouches for those of the … abandoned in consequence of the ruin which had befallen … * That this shock of earthquake occurred during the lifetime of

321

less injured the other three, flung down the great brick … With so much irreparable damage done to the great … contemporary visitor—the son of the Royal Son of Kush— … thinks of looking for them. But such was not the case in … ttameses II seems to be proved by the fact that, where the Osiride

322

322 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … in 1869, when the empress of the French was at Abou … subject—that besides being buried outside to a depth of

323

doorway was found and an opening first effected, the sand … we were first to enter the place, at all events since the … <l»d sculptures are defaced. The Louvre contains a full-

XIX: Back Through Nubia

324

324 A THOUSAND MILES UP T11E NILE. … As a rule, people begin to get tired of temples about this … fewer. Miss Martineau tells how, in this part of the … of those notes and only some of those sketches in the … than in these Nubian buildings) the slow deterioration of the

325

We left Abou Sirabel just as the moou was rising on … Slowly but surely, however, the hard-won miles go by.

326

326 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … and blue eyes (grafted on brown-black skins) date back to

327

And now, though the north wind blows persistently, it … The thermometer stands at 85° in the saloon of the

328

338 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … crested polls and chattering disparagingly, like a couple of

329

DISCO VERIES A T ABO U SIMBEL. 329 … dess. The writer, meanwhile, hidden behind a curtain,

330

330 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Supposing yonder town to have been founded in the … between Abou Siuibel and Philas, we found the old alluvial soil

331

same evening, when the sun was setting, we saw a fan-like … rating) unable to descend as rain, because dispersed at a … ''One day's march in the hagar" (" desert "). … howadji, traveling alone and on foot, had once gone in

332

332 A THOUSAND MILES UP Til E NILE. … itself a dull ruin but picturesquely desolate. Seen as one … long in the barrel; and some of the others carry slender

333

which to date the building, we looked in vain.* … i Sec 'I'll,: ScarabcBus Sacer, by C. Woodrooffe, B. A.—a paper

334

334 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … The whole thing, in short, as regards sculpturesque style, … * See chap, x, p. 163. Dakkeh (the Pselcis of the Greeks and

335

DISCO VlttllKS A T ADO U SIMDEL. 335 … At Kobban also was found the famous stela of Barneses II, called … Contra Pselcis must be the same town."—" Topography of Thebes," … its walls. "The Ethiopians," says Strabo, " having taking advan- … and the reason which had induced them to begin the war. On their

336

3BC A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … twenty. Vertical on the inside, they are built at a but- … the insurgents fled may have been the large sand island which hero

337

spread over the land as manure — has now disappeared … Our adventures by the way are few and far between; and

338

338 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … One morning early, we see a bride taken across the river … ing, bobbing, poussetting, pursuing each other at a gallop, … The natives hereabout are said to be quarrelsome ; and if, … way up to the temple, which is excavated in the face of a

339

osiride colossi, which stand twenty feet high without the … while those of the avenue outside have distinctly Ethiopian … the decadence school.* The rosy half-light of an Egyptian … " C'est un ouvrage non aclieve du temps de 1'Erapereur A.uguste.

340

340 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

341

But if the decorative work in the presence-chamber of the … yards upon which it is possible to set one's foot on the … is the Greek inscription of Silco of Ethiopia, f This in-

342

3-13 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … I trusted them; because they are a people of good faith. … For I am a lion on the plains, and a goat upon the mountains. … | Blemyes: The Blemeys were a nomadic race of Berbers, supposed

343

we arrive next morning. As the mason's work at Tafah is … been effected by human means without the aid of power- … riiin, one quite perfect, and now used as a stable. There … mclosed in boundary walls, some of which are built in the

344

344 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … This same native, having sold a necklace to the idle man

345

evidence of the sincerity of the religious sentiment in the … We are now less than forty miles from Phila?; but … "nable to help them. Talhamy, whose own stores are at a … ftgain. Enough! It is not for the ladies to trouble them- … ^e troubled and not to do what little we can for the … Under a burning sky we touch for an hour or two at

346

346 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … flour. Old Ali, Riskalli and Miisa, whose homes lie in the … * In these secret chambers (the entrance to which was closed by a

347

DISCO VBRIBS A T ABO U SIMBBL. 347 … ently in the barley. It was a jileasant sound, for we knew … Our scanty crew, armed with sticks, flew at once to the

348

348 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … a private war on our hands, no captain, and one of our … Outwardly indifferent, inwardly not a little anxious, wo

349

DISCO VERIES A T ABO 0 SIMBEL. 349 … to do with it; that the matter, in short, was in the hands … Summoned next morning to give evidence, the idle man

350

350 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

351

uppermost; and two soldiers proceeded to execute the sen- … pened, when the afternoon of the eighth came round, that … , It has been a hot day, and there is dead calm on the

352

352 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

XX: Silsilis and Edfu

353

Going, it cost us four days to struggle up from Assiian

354

354 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … The sheik, however, gives the word — his second echoes

355

back with the old stolid face; slips on his shoes; drops on … We had fancied till now that the cataract Arabs for … four that shot the fall this season, several had been slightly

356

350 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE. … now, for the Nile is gradually sapping the bank and carry- … accomplished the main object of his journey, he was glad … tion complete a Horus, et c'est it ce titre qu'il uta.it adOl'e il Ombos,"

357

Cairo. That opportunity—represented by a noble duke

358

355 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … ured and painted; and in one larger than the rest were … lait divin le roi Horns, encore enfant. L'Egypte n'a jamais, comma … cliarme et etonne a la fois."—•" Itineraire de la llaut Egypte." A

359

goddess named Ta-nr-t,* represented in one of the side … w'th an offering of two sistrums. As a hippopotamus … °cc»pies a prominent place in the facade of the Mammisi. … j. 1 n the Heavens, this goddess personified the constellation Trsa

360

300 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … separated by a thin partition of rock, opened a second and … into valleys of debris; and came back at last to the

361

the lower part had been removed and the upper part left … quarrying, our rough-and-ready blasting looks like the

362

3G2 A THOUSAND MILKS UP TEE NILE. … Ten years ago nothing was visible of the great Temple … dous task, ho says : " I caused to bo demolished the sixty-

363

mound has been cut clean away all round the building, … the same time the pylons, covered with gigantic sculptures, … Who enters that gate crosses the threshold of the past, … ment, every column, every stair, is in its place. The roof,

364

3G4 A THOUSAND MILES UP TllM NILE … ples. They belong to the same period. They are built … every doorway, the outer wall of the temple, the inner side … * Edfu is the elder temple; Denderah the copy. Where the

365

tlio poem of Pentaur. Those went out with the Pharaohs … the gods; lists of the priestslmd priestesses of both Edfu … No great collection of these inscriptions, like the " Den- … the depths of the Edfu mine'and brings back as much

366

3G6 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … all these visits; and if the gods, like modern emperors, had … served them in the temples; who robed and unrobed them; … them tormented with doubts of the gods ? Were there … 1888, for an account of how the statues of Isis and other deities were

367

pylons are on a grand scale, with wide beveled windows … tunately gone; but the total height without them is one

368

308 A THOUSAND MILES UP Tllti NlLti.

369

reconstruct the ground-plan of the whole building in hiero- … much that is ruined, the one absolutely perfect structure— … how it all looked when the sacred flotilla came sweeping up … "•hove their heads, burst into a frantic chorus of " back- … sent the dwellings of some sixty generations. When they

XXI: Thebes

370

370 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … "We had so long been the sport of destiny that we hardly … stands to me for a host of hravo and generous and kindly … Where Copt and Arab drive the same doubtful trade it is

371

salesmen the Arabs are perhaps the less dishonest. Both … their hieroglyphed limestone tablets, are executed with a

372

372 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … some were partly colored. The colors and brushes were … Meanwhile we waited, expecting to be ushered into the

373

governor's house, and lie immediately vanished round the

374

374 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … thetic lying at the bottom of its grave in the morning sun- … AYe went away, meanwhile, for a few hours, and saw … " .Notice des Monuments a 13oulak, p. 40. Paris, 1S73,

375

It was a hot climb ; the sun blazing overhead ; the cliii's … They were numbered half a century ago by the late Sir … As a child " The Manners and Customs of the Ancient … them in their gardens ; listened to the music of their lutes … * marvel that they have not yet finished polishing the Bur-

376

376 A- THOUSAND MILKS UP THE MILE. … the right figure. These people lived in the time of the … We had luncheon that morning, I remember, with the

377

going to and fro—the brown and battered Arabs, squatting … the air circulates freely among those simple and beautiful … topographical descriptions, the account he gives of the … * Diodorus, " Biblioth Hist.," 13k. i, cliap. iv. The fault of inac-

378

3?8 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … xviii, of the present work; p. 319.

379

chariot, sends arrow after arrow against the flying foe. … Must have lifted his head some ten feet higher still. " The … we must add the height of the crown, which would proportionately … ninety-two feet, high. This was, so far as is known, the largest … etrie at about nine hundred tons; t. e., one hundred tons mure than the

380

380 A THOUSAND MILES tTP Tim MILE. … doubts for a moment that this statue was one of the won- … how or when the ruin had been done. It was enough that … stupendous fragments, the fallen colossus is more astonish-

381

the way in winch this color was applied, one would say that … ■The fragments of wall and shattered pylon that yet

382

382 A THOUSAND MILES UP Tim NILE.

383

As biographical material, the temple ami pavilion at … aft" I others in a tomb behind Medinet Habu. Purchased soon … DiuTU nrst' ^ea'' tue text' 's complete throughout." The papyrus … It al n' !m<' ^-y n's delivery of the country from foreign subjection. … arch !""s; historical speech and conclusion. Throughout the mon-

384

384 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the plan of which includes, besides the usual halls, side- … ordinary Egyptian monarch, he was as distinguished in the battle-

385

tower. The lodges and tower stand to each other as the … ^ .ie writer, with help, got as high as the first chamber; the … buil v " e reason to believe that tliis is only a fragment of the … or ornaments complete, it must have formed a composition

386

386 A THOUSAND MILES UP THIS NILE. … the works of Wilkinson or Eosellini) are here reproduced

387

pawn. The table lias disappeared. The king has lost his … ■The king, it seems, under the na … . t"A Medinet Habou, dans son palais.il s'est fait representer … etoaote a fait la Demeter figyptienne, comme il a fait d'Osiris le

388

of a religious and military character. The king, as usual, … head in these friezes is a portrait. The Libyan is beard- … * Baal, written sometimes Bar, was, like Sutekh, a god borrowed

389

Medinet Habit sculptures. Pelasgians from the Greek … "utlined, so to say, in intaglio, and relieved in the hollow,

390

390 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … foot. Bejoice, 0 Egypt! Exalt thy voice to the heavens; … Such, linked each to each, by a running commentary of

391

The writer pitched her tent in the doorway of the first

392

392 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … represent Amenhotep, or Amnnoph 111; and that the northernmost

393

whoso names figure in the shrines of the Ramessides at … stands his Queen Tuaa, the mother of Rameses II. Else- … Adjoining what may be called the monumental part of … though not in direct communication, with the royal tombs … chamber or votive oratory, the walls of which are covered

394

394 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … remain on the walls of these ruined apartments are, in fact,

395

two kings, and served most likely by a twofold college of … -L'be Temple of Gournah—northernmost of the Theban … °"e morning about an hour after daybreak, crossing the river … t -I here is a very curious window at the end of this sanctuary, with

396

A THOUSAND MlLftS tfP TilHJ NILE. … Striking off by and by toward the left, we make for a

397

We now leave behind us the well, and the trees, and the … fhe weird rocks stand like sentinels to right and left a,s

398

398 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

399

take comfort in those shadowy reminiscences. The kings, … scend one's self into the lower world and to tread the path … half-demon. Huge serpents writhe beside us along the

400

A THOUSAND MILES UP 'THE NILE. … torment. Beheld by the dim and shifting light of a few … Elsewhere we come upon scenes less painful. The sun … statues represent those which were actually placed in the tomb; and

401

Coming out for a moment into blinding daylight, we … I 1 he crocodile represents Sebek. In one of the Boulak papyri, … ii fhe tomb numbered three in the first small ravine to the left as

402

402 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Still Eameses III seems to have had a grand idea of … sonal luxury as a palace-building Pharaoh might delight … as obviously blind. The harps are magnificent, richly inlaid and

403

another in No. 9 (Barneses VI); the first, a grand mono- … bled graffiti on the walls. When and by whom the sepul- … ers, who lived by depredations of the kind. A contem- … I aris and Ohalon, 1870), gives a list of royal tombs inspected by an

404

404 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … No royal tomb has been found absolutely intact in the … it. He found in it statues of wood and porcelain, and the … are familiar to even those who have not seen them in the Boulak

405

their dark palaces magnificently equipped for the life to … ments which were as certainly buried in those tombs as the … have been collected from a variety of other royal mummy-cases,

406

40G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the mummied body, lie thought he should rise as from … lorn through these desolate halls when all is silent and the … various parts of the mummy. In some mysterious manner the

407

knew where they were hidden. But there was a solemn … Price, he haggled and hesitated for a day or two,evidently try-

408

408 • A THOUSAND MILES UP TRW NILE. … through the Alexandrian custom-house by a single agent … ellini tells how they used to sit up at night, dividing the

409

We asked if it was just like this when the sitteh lived … J-'he sun was near setting. AVe could distinguish the … son, among the tombs of Sheik Abd-el-Koorneh. Here he … younger—the "little Ahmed" whom Lady Duff Gordon

410

410 A THOUSAND MILkS UP THE NILE. … So we drank Nile water ; and for the first time in our

411

* Samak: a large flat fish, rather like a brill. … ** Kunafah: a rich pudding made of rice, almonds, cream, cinna-

412

412 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … To eat gracefully with one's fingers is a fine art; to carve … finger and thumb deep into the breast, brought out a long, … the princess' pipe and smoked it very cleverly all the

413

always do wind up at Luxor, with a performance of … bounding every now and then down the whole length … never tired. This was the leader of the little band—an … went on; seeming at last to forget everything but his own … , . The kemengeh is a kind of small two-stringed fiddle, the body of

414

414 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … AVhile at Luxor, we went one Sunday morning to the

415

l'obed deacon, who stood reading at the reading desk with … the lessons as they were read in Coptic was translated,

416

416 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

417

Before leaving, we asked permission to look at the

418

418 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … The idle man hereupon suggested that it seemed to him, … The bishop, though perfectly right in stating that Coptic and

419

I then asked him if the Coptic was in all respects a dead … The bishop shook hands with us all round, and, but that … thing as ii Coptic alphabet previous to that time. The Coptic alpha-

420

430 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

XXII: Abydus and Cairo

421

AIYDUS AND C A I It 0 .

422

wonderfully changed since we first passed this way. The … closed jalousies, and wet sails hung round the sides of the … In such wise, and in such a temperature, wo found our- … Not even L------could be induced to take a six-mile

423

ordered out her sketching-tent and paid a last visit to tho … Abydus. Our proper course would have been to push on … exciting fashion we somehow or other accomplished the … above the surface of the corn, like galleys with fantastic

424

424 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE. … pigeon-towers in courses of pots and bricks, give a singular

425

knives.* Meanwhile, fluttering from heap to heap, settling … the houses, noticing here a sculptured block built into a … could in the time and having before us along ride through … Buried as it, Abydus,J even under its mounds, is a place

426

42G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Note to Second Edition.—" Des monuments trouves il y a deux … la Haute Egvpte." A Mariette Bey. Avant Propos, p. 40. Alexan-

427

capital of Egypt. The seat of power shifted strangely … the native origin of the race can be adduced than the posi-

428

428 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … piers, columns, halls, and passages, and all the seven sanc- … *M. Mariette, in bis great work on the excavations at Abydus, … p. G2. Alex. 1872. There is at the upper end of each of these seven

429

There is so far a family resemblance between temples of … the funereal papyri, but very rarely seen in the temple sculptures.

430

430 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE. … the guide came to warn us of approaching evening. We … The building is strictly coeval in date and parallel in style with the … were probably either princes born of families originally from Abydus,

431

to push on farther, contented ourselves with climbing a … * See "Itineraire de la Haute fieypte:" A. Mariette Bey: p. 147.

432

432 A THOUSAND MlLBS UP THE NILE. … noonday moored at a place called Ayserat, where we paid … and lives in patriarchal fashion surrounded by a numerous

433

cising ground, and a large court-yard; the whole inclosed … The Aga's brother and nephews put them through their … a hundred such standing in his stables. Pipes, coffee, and

434

434 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB WILE. … Egypt. L------visited some of the vice-regal hareems at

435

AB YD US A ND CAIRO. 435 … It seemed to us'that the wives of the fellahin were in … and thirty-five miles between us and Cairo. From this … generally a case of sunstroke on her hands. One by one, … we felt lost at first in the big rooms at Shepheard's hotel,

436

43G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

437

It is difficult to say but a few inadequate words of a place … for the first time since ever " mummy was sold for bal- … curtain words (that is, repeat prayers and invocations) on the day … * This barbarous rite has been abolished by the present khedive.

438

43S A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … f There is no evidence to show that the statues of Sepa and Nesa

439

Ghawiizi. The eyes of both statues are inserted. The … il|i point de vue etknograpkique. Si la race Egyptienne etait a

440

440 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

441

possible to get tired of the pyramids. Here L------and … and then once more comes the sandy slope, and the cavern- … it. The ascent is extremely easy. Rugged and huge as

442

442 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … they did not cut steps in the blocks, so as to make the as- … the top; then, finding we were English, shouted " God

443

slabs, like the roofing-stones of the temples. "We see how

444

444 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

445

banded in light and shade, is plain to see. So is the dome-

Appendix

447

A. M'CALLUM, ESQ., TO THE EDITOR OF " THE TIMES."* … THE EGYPTIAN" PAXTIIEON.

448

of the greater gods or else attendants upon them. Most of the gods … 5, Seb; G, Osiris; 7, Set and Nephthys; 8, Horus and Athor. The … Kneph, Knum or Knouphis—Ham-headed. Called the maker of

449

Ha; liis right hand uplifted, holding the flail. The god of produc- … Osiris—Of human form, mummified, crowned with a miter, and … Nefer Atum—Human-headed, and crowned with the pschent. … Horns Harpakhrat (Harpocrates), or Horus the child. Is represented

450

THE RELIGIOUS BELIEF OF TIIE EGYPTIANS. … itself to many interpretations of a contradictory nature, none of … can scarcely say in what respects he is incomprehensible. He is the

451

one who exists by essence; the one sole life of all substance; the one … beings. Hence that which doubtless was originally a symbol be-

452

" In tlie course of ages, the sense of the religion became obscured. … "The chronology of Egypt has been a disputed point for cent-

453

the dated sepulchral tablets of the bull Apis at the serapeum, the … Mariette, though recognizing the need for extreme caution in the … To this chronology may be opposed the brief table of dates com- … "not as an attempt to reconcile systems," but as an aid to the classi-

454

Mena and the commencement of the ancient empire … Expulsion of Shepherds and commencement of the … Sheshonk (Shishak), the conqueror of Jerusalem . … A very important addition to our chronological information with … paper, entitled Per Thontafelfund von 'Pell Amarna, read before the

Verlagsinformation

455

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456

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457

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458

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459

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460

Westward Ho! or, The Voyages and Adventures of Sir … 11 Westward Ho! " is one of the most vigorous, powerful, and fascinating of … " Self-TIelp" is a book which helps and stimulates men to elevate and improve … Eyre." This was doubtless due in part to the freshness and vigor of mind it … For sale by all Booksellers, oi' will be sent post-paid on receipt of price, by the pub-

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