DOI Seite / Zitierlink:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.4393#0028
10 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
this variety of the pleasures of the chase may be able to
form some notion of the weary, hopeless, puzzling work
which lies before the dahabeeyah-hunter in Cairo.
Thus it came to pass that, for the first ten clays or so,
some three or four hours had to be devoted every morning
to the business of the boats; at the end of which time we
were no nearer a conclusion than at first. The small boats
were too small for either comfort or safety, especially in
what Nile travelers call " a big wind." The medium-sized
boats (which lie under the suspicion of being used in sum-
mer for the transport of cargo) were for the most part of
doubtful cleanliness. The largest boats, which alone
seemed unexceptionable, contained from eight to ten
cabins, besides two saloons, and were obviously too large
for a party consisting of only L------, the writer and a maid.
And all were exorbitantly clear. Encompassed by these
manifold difficulties; listening now to this and now to that
person's opinion ; deliberating, haggling, comparing, hesi-
tating, we vibrated daily between Boulak and Cairo and
led a miserable life. Meanwhile, however, we met some
former acquaintances; made some new ones; and when
not too tired or downhearted, saw what wo could of the
sights of Cairo—which helped a little to soften the asperi-
ties of our lot.
One of our first excursions was, of course, to the pyramids,
which lie within an hour and a half's easy drive from the
hotel door. We started immediately aftoran early luncheon,
followed an excellent road all the way and were back in
time for dinner at half-past six. But it must be under-
stood that we did not go to see the pyramids. We went
only to look at them. Later on (having meanwhile been
up the Nile and back and gone through months of train-
ing), we came again, not only with clue leisure, but also
with some practical understanding of the manifold phases
through which the arts and architecture of Egypt had
passed since those far-off days of Cheops and Chephren.
Then, only, we can be said to have seen the pyramids; and
till we arrive at that stage of our pilgrimage it will be well
to defer everything like a detailed account of them or their
surroundings. Of this first brief visit, enough, therefore, a
brief record.
The first glimpse that most travelers now get of the
pyramids is from the window of the railway carriage as
this variety of the pleasures of the chase may be able to
form some notion of the weary, hopeless, puzzling work
which lies before the dahabeeyah-hunter in Cairo.
Thus it came to pass that, for the first ten clays or so,
some three or four hours had to be devoted every morning
to the business of the boats; at the end of which time we
were no nearer a conclusion than at first. The small boats
were too small for either comfort or safety, especially in
what Nile travelers call " a big wind." The medium-sized
boats (which lie under the suspicion of being used in sum-
mer for the transport of cargo) were for the most part of
doubtful cleanliness. The largest boats, which alone
seemed unexceptionable, contained from eight to ten
cabins, besides two saloons, and were obviously too large
for a party consisting of only L------, the writer and a maid.
And all were exorbitantly clear. Encompassed by these
manifold difficulties; listening now to this and now to that
person's opinion ; deliberating, haggling, comparing, hesi-
tating, we vibrated daily between Boulak and Cairo and
led a miserable life. Meanwhile, however, we met some
former acquaintances; made some new ones; and when
not too tired or downhearted, saw what wo could of the
sights of Cairo—which helped a little to soften the asperi-
ties of our lot.
One of our first excursions was, of course, to the pyramids,
which lie within an hour and a half's easy drive from the
hotel door. We started immediately aftoran early luncheon,
followed an excellent road all the way and were back in
time for dinner at half-past six. But it must be under-
stood that we did not go to see the pyramids. We went
only to look at them. Later on (having meanwhile been
up the Nile and back and gone through months of train-
ing), we came again, not only with clue leisure, but also
with some practical understanding of the manifold phases
through which the arts and architecture of Egypt had
passed since those far-off days of Cheops and Chephren.
Then, only, we can be said to have seen the pyramids; and
till we arrive at that stage of our pilgrimage it will be well
to defer everything like a detailed account of them or their
surroundings. Of this first brief visit, enough, therefore, a
brief record.
The first glimpse that most travelers now get of the
pyramids is from the window of the railway carriage as