CAIRO TO BEDRESHA YN. 33
And now we are on board and have shaken hands with
the captain and are as busy as bees; for there are cabins to
put in order, flowers to arrange, and a hundred little,
things to be seen to before the guests arrive. It is wonder-
ful, however, what a few books and roses, an open piano,
and a sketch or two will do. In a few minutes the com-
fortless hired look has vanished, and long enough before
the first comers are announced the Philae wears an aspect
as cozy and home-like as if she had been occupied for a
month.
As for the luncheon, it certainly surprised the givers of
the entertainment quite as much as it must have surprised
their guests. Being, no doubt, a pre-arranged display of
professional pride on the part of dragoman and cook, it
was more like an excessive Christinas dinner than a modest
midday meal. Wo sat through it unflinchingly, however,
for about an hour and three quarters, when a startling dis-
charge of firearms sent us all running upon deck and
created a wholesome diversion in our favor. It was the
French boat signaling her departure, shaking out her big
sad, and going oil triumphantly.
I fear that wo of the Bagstones and Phila3—being mere
mortals and Englishwomen—could not help feeling just a
little spiteful when we found the tri-color had started first;
but then it was a consolation to know that the Frenchmen
were going only to Assuan. Such is the esprit da Ml.
The people in dahabeeyahs despise Cook's tourists; those
who are bound for the second cataract look down with
lofty compassion upon those whoso ambition extends only
to the first; and travelers who engage their boat by the
month hold their heads a trifle higher than those who con-
tract for the trip. We, who were going as far as we liked
and for as long as we liked, could afford to be mag-
nanimous. So we forgave the Frenchmen, went down
again to the saloon, and had colfee and music.
It was nearly three o'clock when our Cairo visitors wished
us "bon voyage" and good-by. Then the M. B.'s, who,
with their nephew, had been of the party, went back to
their own boat; and both captains prepared to sail at a
given signal. For the M. B.'s had entered into a solemn
convention to start with us, moor with us, and keep witli
us, if practicable, all the way up the river. It is pleasant
now to remember that this sociable compact, instead of
And now we are on board and have shaken hands with
the captain and are as busy as bees; for there are cabins to
put in order, flowers to arrange, and a hundred little,
things to be seen to before the guests arrive. It is wonder-
ful, however, what a few books and roses, an open piano,
and a sketch or two will do. In a few minutes the com-
fortless hired look has vanished, and long enough before
the first comers are announced the Philae wears an aspect
as cozy and home-like as if she had been occupied for a
month.
As for the luncheon, it certainly surprised the givers of
the entertainment quite as much as it must have surprised
their guests. Being, no doubt, a pre-arranged display of
professional pride on the part of dragoman and cook, it
was more like an excessive Christinas dinner than a modest
midday meal. Wo sat through it unflinchingly, however,
for about an hour and three quarters, when a startling dis-
charge of firearms sent us all running upon deck and
created a wholesome diversion in our favor. It was the
French boat signaling her departure, shaking out her big
sad, and going oil triumphantly.
I fear that wo of the Bagstones and Phila3—being mere
mortals and Englishwomen—could not help feeling just a
little spiteful when we found the tri-color had started first;
but then it was a consolation to know that the Frenchmen
were going only to Assuan. Such is the esprit da Ml.
The people in dahabeeyahs despise Cook's tourists; those
who are bound for the second cataract look down with
lofty compassion upon those whoso ambition extends only
to the first; and travelers who engage their boat by the
month hold their heads a trifle higher than those who con-
tract for the trip. We, who were going as far as we liked
and for as long as we liked, could afford to be mag-
nanimous. So we forgave the Frenchmen, went down
again to the saloon, and had colfee and music.
It was nearly three o'clock when our Cairo visitors wished
us "bon voyage" and good-by. Then the M. B.'s, who,
with their nephew, had been of the party, went back to
their own boat; and both captains prepared to sail at a
given signal. For the M. B.'s had entered into a solemn
convention to start with us, moor with us, and keep witli
us, if practicable, all the way up the river. It is pleasant
now to remember that this sociable compact, instead of