Edwards, Amelia B.: A thousand miles up the Nile (New York, [1888])

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Universitätsbibliothek Heidelberg

Universitätsbibliothek Heidelberg

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Edwards, Amelia B.
A thousand miles up the Nile — New York, [1888]

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https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.4393#0116

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A THOUSAND MILES … Like some grave, mighty thought, threading a dream." … A. L. BURT, PUBLISHER.

Preface to the first edition

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Ampere has put Egypt in an epigram. " A donkey ride … —was the one vessel best constructed for the navigation of

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snatch but a glimpse of the Nile will doubtless prefer the … ruary; very warm in March and April. The climate of … repeated inquiries of those who looked for the publication

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acquires by the way. It is, moreover, a subject beset with … wide among the pages of scientific journals and the trans- … parent in this country of a sound school of Egyptian … surely not least among the glories of learning that those … people are much less changed in Egypt than we of the

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whom we know so well in tlie wall paintings of the tombs. … ing it with his fingers from the same bowl, as did his fore … forms his uncouth antics, for the entertainment of the

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tombs of the kings. … which yet hangs over the problem of life and thought in … a profound philosophical rebus, the mystery of Egyptian … other purpose than to lighten the darkness of our little … great Egyptologists who are attached to the service of the

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by step to the study of hieroglyphic writing ; and I now … The greater proportion of it is carved in stone. Some is … Some thirteen years ago,* a distinguished American … tbe first edition of this book was published. [Note to second

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discovered past of Egypt. In its narrower sense, the … In the picture we see a brown, half-naked, toil-worn

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an engraving from Lis picture. It tells its own tale; or … The secret of the sphinx.

Preface to the second edition

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First published in 1877, this book has been out of print … cally, learned from the pages of Baedeker and Murray.

Contents

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The Mosque of Sultan Hassan—Moslems at Prayer—Mosque of … The Mahmal—Howling Dervishes—The Mosque of Ainr— … The Palms of Memphis—Three Groups of Pyramids—The M. … The Rule of the Nile—The Shadfif—Beni Suef—Thieves hy

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Sheik Cotton "—The Convent of the Pulley—A Copt—The … the Nile—A Fantasia—Noah's Ark—Birds of Egypt— … Selim—Kasr es Syad—Forced Labor—Temple of Den- … Luxor—Donkey-boys—Topography of Ancient Thebes—Pylons … A Storm on the Nile—Ertnent—A Gentlemanly Bey—Esneh— … in Egypt—Elephantine—Inscribed Potsherds—Bazaar of

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Scenery of the Cataract—The Sheik of the Cataract—Vexa- … Chamber of Osiris—Inscribed Rock—View from the Roof … Nubian Scenery—A Sand-slope—Missing Yusef—Trading by … El-Id el-Kebir—Stalking Wild Ducks—Temple of Amada— … Youth of Rameses the Great—Treaty with the Kheta—His … The Colossi—Portraits of Rameses the Great—The Great Sand-

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Crocodile—Dull Scenery—Wady Hali'eb—The Rock of … Society at Abou Simbel—The Painter Discovers a Rock-cut … Again—Wady Sabooah—-Haughty Beauty—A Nameless … Shooting the Cataract—Ivora Ombo—Quarries of Silsilis—Edfu … Tombs of Thebes—The Ramesseum—The Granite Colossus

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CONTENTS. xv a … Shade—Samata—Unbroken Donkeys—The Plain of Aby- … I- A. McCallum, Esq., to the Editor of The Times.......... 447

List of Illustrations

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. … Head of Ti................................................ 57 … Shrines of Osiris, 1, 2 and 3...............................205-200 … Profile of Rameses II (from the Southernmost Colossus; Abou … Pattern of Cornice........................................ 308

I: Cairo and the Great Pyramid

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A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the course of many wanderings; but it seldom befalls him to … incongruous is this body of Nile-goers, young and old, … business; distinguishes at first sight between a Cook's

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2 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Englishwomen had come from; why they had not dressed … We came from Alexandria, having had a rough passage … still in search of sunshine, the talk fell upon Algiers— … Genoa, Bologna, Ancona ilitted by, as in a dream ; and

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Here, then, without definite plans, outfit, or any kind of … storms at sea, or the impatient hours of quarantine, or … against a rose-colored dawn? It was dark last night, and … ineffaceable first impression of oriental out-of-door life … binations of light and shade, color, costume, and architect- … waiting for customers; the beggar asleep on the steps of … ject; and from these again jut windows of delicate turned

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4 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … pen-wipers ; Persians with high miter-like caps of dark … keys ; native women of the poorer class, in black veils that … majestic ghosts of Algerine Arabs, all in white; mounted

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rides, like a balloon. She sits astride; her naked feet, … of pale yellow; his high-pommeled saddle is resplendent … dered waistcoat and fluttering white tunic, Hies a native … vests of striped Syrian silk reaching to the feet; and an

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6 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … of which are exquisitely engraved with arabesque patterns … tasseled head-gear and hump-backed saddles of all qualities … walking down avenues of red and yellow morocco slippers;

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wealthy hareens, and are sold at prices varying from five … merchants sit and smoke in the midst of their goods ; and … ments. These differ from each other only in the metal,

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8 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … of chains and earrings, anklets, bangles, necklaces strung … Khaleel, without, it is to be feared, a corresponding … extensive bazaars for the sale of English and … But the bazaars, however picturesque, are far from being … they lived in a dream and were at first too bewildered to

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tion of Boulak—a desolate place by the river, where some … The same may be said of their captains, with the same dif- … active circulation, have a mysterious way of turning … or hidden in the midst of a dozen others half a mile lower … heard before, afford as yet no kind of help to the … but Arabic, and that every word of inquiry or negotiation

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10 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … to the business of the boats; at the end of which time we … led a miserable life. Meanwhile, however, we met some … up the Nile and back and gone through months of train-

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they come from Alexandria; and it is not impressive. It … out everything but the sense of awe and wonder. … table-land of sand and rock, pitted with open graves and … a big cairn.

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12 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … The color again is a surprise. Few persons can be aware … where—except, indeed, for a few minutes to the brink of … impression of the outer aspect and size of this enormous … the duration of six or seven thousand jrears; and the great … figures, but years with their changes of season, their high

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the length of one side, climbed to the top, and learned the … inches higher than the cross on the" top of St. Paul's and … platform of the desert and over full three quarters of a … from Mean. … the thickness of the three casing-stones yet in situ and the pre-

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14 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … ahead to bid us a last good-by. That we should have … temple of the Sphinx and done two or three of the prin- … complain of them now or afterward. They neither crowded … wished for silence. And they were satisfied with a very

II: Cairo and the Mecca Pilgrimage

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The mosque of Sultan Hascan, confessedly the most … tectural style out of the heterogeneous elements of Roman … design, proportion, and a certain lofty grace impossible to … curve in it, and every inch of detail, is in the best style of

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le A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … of Sultan Hassan, built by En Nasir Hassan in the high … Driving up with some difficulty to the foot of the great … away, inch by inch, till nothing remains but a heap of

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with, at each side, a vast recess framed in by a single arch. … in the proscribed attitudes of prayer. So absorbed were … became so familiar, however, with this obvious trait of … his prayer-carpet on the narrow mastabah of his little shop

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IS A THOUSAND MILES UP THIS NILE. … tions of this noble sepulchral hall, the walls of which are … Presently a tiny brown and golden bird perched with

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then know that a Mohammedan mosque is as much a place … From the mosque of this Memlook sovereign it is but a

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20 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE, … member the order of our sight-seeing in Cairo, for the … we witnessed a performance of howling dervishes, and the … nearly three hours, exposed to clouds of dust and a burning … * One only is said to have escaped—a certain Emin Bey, who leaped

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not a little humiliating, to bo whirled along behind a … The place was like a fair with provision stalls, swings, … each side of the great towered gateway; swarmed on the … gravity of demeanor! For the truth is that gravity is by … them upon every occasion of public rejoicing, but calls in

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22 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … green pennants. After these had gone by there was a long … from side to side, and keeping up a hoarse, incessant cry

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Sheik cl Bokree, who is a sort of Egyptian Archbishop … chief of the carpet-makers'guild—a handsome man, sitting … an eager pause — a gathering murmur. And then, … the mahmal, preceded by another group of mounted officers … possibly have' had better view of the mahmal; which is

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24 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … full tide of the outpouring crowd and causing unimagin- … riding-boots, and the latter, zouave gaiters of white linen. … the proportion of pilgrims was absurdly smalf when com-

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that seven thousand souls went out this year from Cairo … A long time went by thus. At last, when the number

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2G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … voices grew hoarser—the heads bowed lower—the name of … going round at last; and more than one of the ladies … heads, one poor wretch staggered out of the circle and fell, … apparently in a state of coma.

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begin; but the Europeans had had enough of it, and few … a few more minutes saw him struggle back into a dazed,

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28 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … seen it for this reason, if for no other. 13nt it is a barren, … Here we presently fell in with a wedding procession con- … laughter, the shouting, the jingle of tambourines and the … the like of which is to be seen in no other capital in the

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world. The sons of the khedive drive here daily, always … straight away for four miles out of Cairo, counting from … bra end, it runs close beside the Nile. Many of the syca- … kept, not over formal and laid out with a view to masses

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3() A TltOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Driving back presently toward Cairo with a big handful … And this is why I have been able, in the midst of so … Cairo; and tomorrow morning, Saturday, the 13th of De- … For, in place of a small boat, we had secured one of the

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the Sakkarah pyramids, the Tumi quarries, the tombs of … with a lugubrious smile.

III: Cairo to Bedreshayn

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32 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … A rapid raid into some of the nearest shops for things … observed our signals of distress, a smart-looking sandal, or … Close behind the Philre lies the Bagstones, a neat

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put in order, flowers to arrange, and a hundred little, … as cozy and home-like as if she had been occupied for a … month hold their heads a trifle higher than those who con- … with their nephew, had been of the party, went back to … now to remember that this sociable compact, instead of

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34 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the head of the steps; the steersman is at the helm; the … Happy are the Nile travelers who start thus with a fair … glide by and are left behind. The domes and minarets of … lounge-chairs, tables and foreign rugs, like a drawing- … Turra—a large, new-looking mud village, and the first of

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limestone comes out dazzling white and the long slopes of … all come from these mountains—just as the pyramids did … And now, as the afternoon wanes, we draw near to a … point for visiting Sakkarah. There is a railway station … A dahabeeyah, at the first glance, is more like a civic or

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30 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE.

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door led into a passage out of which opened four sleeping- … dimensions, being given from memory, are approximate.

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38 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … was a Cairo Arab. The dragoman, Elias Talhamy, was a … cheerfully from sunrise to sunset, sometimes towing the

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stirred in with boiled lentils till the whole becomes of the … some to seek a living as porters in Cairo; others to their … inferiors, is too often of light weight and bad quality. The … dragoman and waiters were Christians of the Syrian Latin

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40 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE. … dreamed of doing so. Some would not touch wine—had … Nor do I believe there was a man on board who would … we distributed among them a few pounds of cheap native … Twice a day, after their midday and evening meals, our … on shore without a tobacco-pouch and a tiny book of

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A Nile sailor's service expires with the season, so that he … Hassan had a wife and a comfortable little home on the … torn with the fingers of the right hand; and it weighs … came a prolonged wail that swelled, and sank, and swelled

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42 A THOUSAND MILES UP TIIE NILE. … here the customary expression of applause. … of going upon deck and listening to their performance. … shone overhead. We felt we were indeed strangers in a

IV: Sakkarah and Memphis

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by the furious squabbling and chattering of some fifty or … and legs in frantic movement, they looked like a troop of … the magnitude of the order and concluding that Cook's … And now our way lies over a dusty flat, across the rail-

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44 A. THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE. … long palm-grove after another; now skirting the borders of … in such a scene and but little beauty. On the contrary, … pyramid, like the roof of the Palais de Justice, in Paris.

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No two are of precisely the same size, or built at precisely … rusty gold—the paler hue of the driven sand-slopes—the … too tame a foreground. It is exactly what is wanted to … owners of the donkeys, also on donkeys; and then every

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46 A THOUSAND MILES UP THIS NILE. … road, that we cut a sorroy figure with our hideous palm- … have brought out from the wilds of Lancashire, partly … all in one. And, besidos all this, he is gifted with a comic … is the curious mixture of debris underfoot. At Ghizeh

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the whole plateau is thickly'strewn with scraps of broken … of cerement cloths—that yonder odd-looking brown lumps … than would have befitted a gang of professional body- … would have to make a similar confession. Shocked at

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48 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … largest to the pyramid of Khafra), its position is so fine, its … hundred according to the computation of Bunsen. One's … torian who wrote in Greek and lived in the reign of Ptol-

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Wilkinson describes the interior ;is " a hollow dome … longer possible, the entrance being blocked by a recent fall … the Serapeum would still be lost under the sands of the … Without saying a word to any one I got some workmen

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50 A THOUSAND MILES UP TIIE NILE. … was entirely cleared at so vast an expenditure of time and … A main avenue terminated by a semicircular platform, … f For an excellent and exact account of tbe Serapeum and the

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combs—vast labyrinths of vaults and passages hewn out of … the darkness of infinite space.

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52 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … rock and farther from the open air and the sunshine. Think- … the dryness of the place, nor had we remembered that or- … access provided by means of a flight of wooden steps, we

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From this point the corridor branches off for another … way of gold and jewels, seem to have destroyed the mum- … ments toward clearing up disputed points of Egyptian … but at last died of his wound, and the priests buried him … shape of an anecdote related by M. About, who tells how

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54 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … indicates as "a young and august stranger" traveling in … M. About, who professes to have had the story direct from … in the vaults of the Serapeum; but we did not see it. Hav- … of day. So we turned back at the half distance—having,

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yawns an open pit some twenty-five feet in depth, with a … quality of this limestone is close and fine like marble, and … that we can see only by the help of lighted candles, we find a … plicity which makes the charm of Montaigne and 1'epys. … ftt work, and watch the coming in of the boats that bring

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56 A THOUSAND MILES DP THE NILE. … ent tradesfolk in these early days of the world. Ti has his … ingots of red gold. It is plain to see that Ti lived like a … about eight times as large as bis servants, sits and stands a … stance with a truthfulness that no landseer could distance. … was first written, mere episodes in the daily life of the deceased; but

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conceals rather than enhances the beauty of the sculp- … the course of the journey, removes … and now in the museum at Boulak. This statue represents a … HEAD OF TI.

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58 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … peum and broiled in the tomb of Ti, to return to Mari- … accommodation of travelers, and fresh water in ice-cold

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tled at a glance by Professor Owen.* … and there, on the thin layer of sand that covered the floor … to move on. Wo have the sight of Memphis and the fa- … of Mena, the founder of the Egyptian monarchy. All we … instance, in realizing the immense antiquity of the Sak-

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CO A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the palms that lead to Memphis. We have, of course, been … palaces, pylons and precious sculptures. We had read of … on the edge of the desert to which, for nearly six thousand … days when there were hundreds of country gentlemen like … And now we are once more in the midst of the palm-

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away from the beaten road across a grassy fiat to the right; … They look like gigantic dust-heaps and stand from … in among the trees; and in front of one of these we find … * This colussus is now raised upon a brick pedestal. [Note to

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G2 A THOUSAND MUMS UP THIS NILE. … colossus—not the fellow to that which we saw first, bnt a … Arabs build their hovels on the verge of the inunda- … before our era, it beheld the rise and fall of thirty-one … * Tell: Arabic for mound. Many of the mounds preserve the

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to be inhabited up to the time of the Arab invasion. It … tastes had led him to the Nile, might have found some of … absorbed all the building material that remained from the … that they may take their due place in the picture-gallery of

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04 A. THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

82 V: Bedreshayn to Minieh

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It is the rule of the Nile to hurry up the river as fast as … forward with or without a wind, now sailing, now tracking, … come, no matter at what trilling cost of present delay ami

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G6 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … contrary to custom need a certain amount of insistance … them; but he sets it down to a habit of harmless curiosity— … get rid of obstacles—to put the right thing in the right … without the added puzzlement of being read backward.

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" Yon will come to learn the value of a wind when you … We had heard of tracking often enough since coming to

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G8 A T110 USAND MILES UP THE NILE. … That morning, still tracking, we pass the pyramids of … from Sakkarah. Seen in the full sunlight, it looks larger … at a foot's pace, and are so long in sight. Palm-groves, … the shadoof is an application of the lever. In no machine which the … done lias raised the water six or seven feet above, the level of tho

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larity of a pendulum. It is the same machine which we … water of the first has been brought. If the river has sunk still more,

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70 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … see a strange object, like a giant obelisk broken off half- … track up to Beni Suef to a point where the buildings come … white and dazzling from the midst of a thickly wooded … punting poles. The rope strains-—a pole breaks—we … So the fight goes on. The promenade and the windows of

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stately steps, as if each ponderous vessel were a crown. … hears a man swim softly round the PhilsB. To strike a

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72 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … of our misfortunes. Happily the long island close by and … finger and finished with a hook at one end and a twisted … came down the river about noon, showing like a yellow fog … Another second and the air was full of sand. The whole … This lasted just one hour, and was followed by a burst of

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sail again towering up overhead, and to hear the swish of … of pushing on to Beni Hassan before the rest of the party … all the way in case of need. So an Arabic telegram is con- … come to a wide reach in the river, at which point we arc

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74 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … bringing little tributes of tobacco and piasters, which he … of the yards, "in order," says Talhamy, "to make them … From this moment the prosperity of our voyage is as- … medans; lie has two wives; he never does a stroke of work; … Sheik Saleem has, it is true, been sitting on a dirt heap … We are by this time drawing toward a range of yellow

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mounded sand, which looks as if it might cover many a … in a borrowed blanket, is allowed to come on board. lie … And this is a Copt; a descendant of the true Egyptian

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76 A THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE. … and left behind. The rock here is of the same rich tawny … face of the range is honeycombed and water-worn for miles … de-sac in which nestle clusters of tiny huts and green

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eight, minutes, a vast arch of deep-bine shade, about … becomes uniform; the stars begin to show; and only a … beam of light streams up in the track of the sun and … scarcely a shade of difference, at the same hour and under … had always found it take place, as now, at the moment of

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78 A THOUSAND MILKS UP TilE NILE. … another wonder— the new moon on the first night of her … squalid, dreary, and depressing. It was like a town

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perfumes of Kebabs and lentil soup, and presided over by … us in mind of the poorer quarters of Cairo. In the … of live poultry. The chickens scream; the sellers rave; … this very Christinas eve, is circulating among the alleys of … one pays in Middle and Upper Egypt for a lamb. A good

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80 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … bifurcate, for bifurcation is the law of its being; but I … Coming back through the town, we were accosted by a … with all the fervor of divination, and delivered a string of … out even such variations as might have been ex2)eeted from … have been present in the streets and market-place from ten

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to little toddling children of three and four year's of age, … neglected condition of very young children. Those be- … ciples of sanitary reform is yet far distant. To wash young … after all, not that three children should die in Egypt out of … an opportunity of now and then seeing more of the street-

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82 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … reputation, which is as bad as that of their neighbors. Of … rest of our party arrived at Minieh. … able, states tliat the majority of native children die oil at, or under,

VI: Minieh to Siut

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are treated to a sheep in honor of the occasion; the new- … called the little lady. Of people who are struggling … Meanwhile the deck must be cleared of the new luggage … and hanging the boat all round with rows of colored lau-

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84 A TITO USAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the awning, and when we moor toward sunset near a river- … There is novelty in even such a commonplace matter as … the party assembled, we sat down to one of cook Beda- … that awaited us when we rose from table. A hundred and … closed in with awnings, looked like a bower of palms. The … At ten o'clock a pan of magnesium powder was burned,

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and our fantasia ended with a blaze of light, like a pan- … livened by music, dancing, or fire-works is called a fan- … afterward deplored, we pass on with many a longing look … warm, the evenings exquisite. We of course live very … coops close by; and our sacrificial sheep, leading a solitary … every morning, to the profound amusement of the steers-

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86 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … have for us the excitement of novelty are continually oc- … for them. Perhaps we see a top-heavy pelican balancing … white like a magpie, sits fearlessly under the bank and … its necklace of pots; the shaduf worked by two brown

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athletes; the file of laden camels; the desert, all sand-hills … of some forgotten city, with fragments of arched founda- … word of command, cling some to the shoghool* and some … than at Gebel et Tayr ; rent into strange forms, as of

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88 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

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tion of everything like shallow detail. While watching … discerned the figure without the help of a glass, but … guidance of others that the round and tower-like rock … Having for nearly twelve miles skirted the base of Gebel … of condolence with our neighbors in misfortune; had our

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90 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … It was, I think, toward the afternoon of this second … roll it up that steep incline to a point beyond the level of

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like devotion to the matter in hand, one sees how subtle a … if only because other people do so, or to get rid of a trouble- … gems, or appreciate the exquisite naturalness of their exe- … considerably since the days of the Pharaohs, and the time … which town lies some distance back from the shore. All

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92 -A- THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … roots yet clinging to the bank and its crest in the water—a … material under fresh aspects, and in combination with a … when the boat reached the village of Ilamra, which is the

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Mehemet Ali, one of our most active and intelligent … Siut, frequently written Asyoot, is the capital of Middle … only to all parts of the Levant, but to every Algerine and … from Siut. There is a whole street of such pottery here in … best dealers bring out, wrapped in soft paper, when a … children's eyes are full of flies and their heads are covered with

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94 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … —a magnificentbutcrnelly mutilated excavation, consisting … hacked almost out of recognition—stand on each side of

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the huge portal. A circular hole in the threshold marks … attest the antique stateliness of the tomb; and the hiero- … extracts from it as far back as 1SG2) shows the excavation … of the work. J … first time fixed the date of this famous tomb, which was made dur- … J; Some famous tombs of very early date, enriched with the same

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9(i A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Ampere, the brilliant and eager disciple of Champollion, … be called Lycopolis throughout the period of Roman rule … is the tyranny of natural forces. The sun and soil of … fashion. And it is affirmed of the descendants of mixed

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seems to be eliminated, while the traits of the race are … Each nome or province of ancient Egypt had its sacred … of the district. A mummied jackal from this place, curi- … to the left, at the foot of the mountain—a wilderness of

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98 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … the preference to a landscape from which the nearer … now hold to be doubtful, they probably rested from their … southward of any point to which they might reasonably … pylons and sanctuaries of the ancient worship that have

VII: Siut to Denderah

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We started from Siut with a couple of tons of new … The sparrows and water-wagtails had a good time while the … therefore habitually short of a hand for the navigation of … and her roll of lint and bandages, soon had a small but … helpless and despondent when hurt, and ignorant of the

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the uses of such simple tilings as poultices or wet com- … the skill of the passing European is, on the other hand, … a few simple cures, rose high among the crew. They called … of pebbles and wild flowers. … region of the dom palm. To-morrow we pass the map-

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tance a couple of hours ago is reached and passed. The … nerable; and so, proclaiming himself the appointed slayer of Anti- … and summary vengeance of the government. Steamers with troops … desert under the protection of a tribe of Bedouins.

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102 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … leaf for firing. A little higher up, at Sahil Bajura on the … be almost out of sight, and a plain rich in sugar-cane and … of verdure. The young corn clothes the plain like a car- … Gardens. Some six or eight Arabs, one of whom has dis- … Meanwhile a strange excitement breaks out among our … lessly, rushing up from below. " There he is! Look at

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sign of hearing, and in a few minutes the mound on which … mounds of the old (Diospolis Parva), we next morning … and piles of broken pottery divided the ruins and made

104

104 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … broken shaft of one small granite column. … of dust—reminded us of the villages we had seen not two … half-filled sail and the force of the wind was spent, we used … spiritualized. The amber sheen of the sand-island in the

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middle of the river, the sober green of the palm-grove, the … eagerly looking for the Theban hills; and now, after a … so much more varied in form than those of Middle Egypt, … ever, in the teeth of wind and current, was no easy task, … must have been common enough in the old days when a

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106 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … ress. In some cases the term of service is limited to … many a husband and father either perishes by the way or … nation starves. Now, the frequent construction of canals … three little crops a year neither he nor his family will

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put an ingenious summary of this "other-side " argument … the benelit thus conferred upon you exacts no penalty of … ruins lay comparatively near at hand, and in such a posi- … skirted an extensive palm-grove, we found ourselves in a … mous— showing from this distance as a massive, low- … appeared to be supported on eight square biers, with a

108

108 A THOUSAND Ml LBS UP TUB NIL B. … flakes upon the surface of rocks far above the present level … found was utilized out of hand; washed and crystallized in

109

the Nurse of Horus, the Egyptian Aphrodite, to whom … piers of the facade were neither square nor piers, but huge … like the crest of an impending wave, did we realize the

110

HO A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … example of Grreco-Egyptian work and early Christian … by King Thothmes III (eighteenth dynasty) "in memory of his

111

latest ovals the name and style of Nero, the present build- … the edict of The- … of all those larger … A dromos, now

112

112 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … external bas-relief of Cleopatra on the back of the temple. … represented with a head-dress combining the attributes of … ing to the Egyptian fashion, in an infinite number of small … and portraiture begins in a work of this epoch. AVe can- … are also quite lovely; while the whole face, suggestive of

113

It is not without something like a shock that one first … instances of painted bas-reliefs in the small inner … silence and mystery. A heavy, death-like smell, as of

114

114 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … Bewildered at first sight of these profuse and mysterious … the preparation of perfumes and unguents ; treasuries for … planted with avenues of trees and surrounded by walls … for anything in the form of public worship; but then an … and worshiped by the king. On certain great days of the

115

were brought out, paraded along the corridors of the … great mass of the people had any kind of personal religion.

116

116 A THOUSAND MILES UP TILE NILE. … conduct him into the presence of Thoth, the ibis-headed, … length of days, everlasting renown, and other good things. … abundant harvests, victory, and the love of his people. … * See Mariette's " Derulerali," wbicli contains the whole of these

117

detects the language of the schools, and discovers in the … help of lighted candles. These rooms are about twenty … signed. Thus in the' laboratories we find bas-reliefs of … * Hathor (or more correctly Hat-bor, i. e. the abode of Horns), is

118

118 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … In the center room at the extreme end of the temple,

119

Finally, we take the staircase on the northern side of the … preparations for a great religious ceremony. AVe have seen … laboratories, the oratories, and the holy of holies. All that … the hand of the sculptor, these figures—each in his habit … year when they step out from their places and take up the … some of the biggest, our idle man finds several that … yet clothed in an atmosphere of tender half-light; but

120

120 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … We ought to have gone down by way of the opposite … gether; firing a gun every now and then, in the hope of … shot replies from near by; a wandering light appears in … Musa, "black but comely"—they were all there. What a

VIII: Thebes and Karnak

121

It was a hot, hazy morning, with dim ghosts of mount- … puted the charge of bashfulness, said: "Luxor—kharuf*— … a curtain, ami we saw to the left a rich plain studded with … painter vows he can see the heads of the sitting colossi

122

122 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … are pierced with terraces of rock-cut tombs; while far … Presently, however, as the boat goes on, a massive, win- … The top of another pylon; the slender peak of an obelisk; … Luxor is startled from its midday siesta. Then, before the … And now there is a rush of donkeys and donkey boys,

123

A THOUSAND MILES HP THE NILE. … both sides of the river. Its original extent must have been

124

like two of the proud in the doleful fifth circle. A few … on foot, or sits enthroned, receiving the homage of his … Amon; that is to say: " Ba strong in truth, approved of … able campaign against the Kheta, which forms the subject of … title of "Le Poemede Pentaour," 1856; into English by Mr. Goodwin,

125

strings of imitation scarabs; the donkey boys vociferating … "This Prince of Wales donkey I" shouts a third, haul- … But neither donkeys nor scarabs are of any importance … consulate and some to the poste restante, from both of … possible. We hope to get a general idea of the topography … the second cataract do well to put off everything like a … with the Memnonium of Strabo and the tomb of Osymandias as

126

126 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … Such was the immortal feat of Barneses, and such the … fiftli day of the month Epiphi, in the fifth year of his reign. … The mutilated colossi are portrait statues of the con-

127

to the temple founded about a hundred and fifty years be- … rection before the gates of the temple, were magnificent

128

128 A. THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the portico, we had to go round outside and through a … The sanctuary, which was rebuilt in the reign of Alex- … by a colonnade. The sanctuary—an oblong granite cham-

129

characteristic heads of a period when the art, having as … Mustapha Aga asked the exorbitant price of £8,000 for his consular

130

130 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Siut, where the river is bare of ruins, it would be enthu- … youth in a European suit so many sizes too small that his … rid of, about eight or ten only refusing to leave at any price. The … result that in place of a crowded, sordid, unintelligible labyrinth of … high a value, is even now in course of demolition,

131

Ins garments) was profuse in his offers of service. He … news pleasant voyage." As a specimen of his literary … stations in lower Egypt from Assiut to Cartoon). Belonging to the … This young man begged for a little stationery and a pen- … tion of small cutlery. … next; and so it goes by day and night without a break, till

132

miles of this distance had to he done on foot, and that the … poorest we had yet seen. It consisted of only a few open … most do congregate. These damsels iu gaudy garments of … hideous. One of these houris was black; and she looked … there with clumps of palms. The Nile lay low and out of … the palms. Once, but for only a few moments, there

133

as extensive, apparently, as the ruins of a large town. … purpose, rose a thicket of sycamores and palms ; while … reached from Luxor to Karnak. Taking into account the … of them; that is to say, two hundred and fifty on each side … a dream. Leaving the small temple, we turned toward the … against blue depths of sky. One was nearly perfect; the

134

134 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … in the midst of a large quadrangle open to the sky, stands … a mighty doorway between two more propylons—the … remembering ; and the great hall of Karnak is photo-

135

there—not all at once, as in a picture; but bit by bit, as … span it round. It casts a shadow twelve feet in breadth— … carved in the semblance of a full-blown lotus, and glows … smaller. Of the roof they once supported, only the beams … * The size of these stones not being given in any of oiir books, I … measure twenty-eight feet in circumference. All are buried to a

136

136 A THOUSAND.MILKS UP THE NILE. … ing between them and the infinite blue depths of heaven. … of these huge window-frames yet contain the solid stone … area occupied by the cathedral of JSiotre Dame in Paris. … The parthenon is more beautiful. Yet in nobility of con-

137

doorway, these columns, are the wonder of the world. … first time in the midst of a grove of Wdlingtonia gigantea … that comes of human labor. They do not strike their roots … who founded the Temple of Luxor and set up the famous … and history of the architect who superintended the build- … look upon his portrait and see what manner of man he … * It has been calculated that every stone of these huge Pharaonic

138

138 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … M. Deveria suggests that the Temple of Gournah may … ple. The "sacred edifice in the upper gate of the abode … father Amen (evidently a new structure) would scarcely … postyle Hall of Karnak. The question is at all events in-

139

forgotten Bramante, but who was also the Ictinus of the … when, having made the round of the principal ruins, we … small outlying temples we saw in the course of that rapid … and bewildered. Have I not said that it was like a

IX: Thebes to Assuan

140

140 A THOUSAND MILES UP TEE NILE. … Hurrying close upon the serenest of Egyptian sunsets … by our own felucca. At length, a little before dawn, a … under the shore ; the western bank hidden in clouds of … A light but fitful breeze helped us on next day as far as

141

of ceremony from the bey—a tall, slender, sharp-featured, … the way, plays a conspicuous part in modern Egyptian … ruins, his replies were sufficiently discouraging. Of the … owner, with a bow and a deprecating gesture, would have

142

142 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … something of the oriental reticence of the Bey of Erment. … stones kept up gallantly. And the Fostat, a large iron da- … the oven and buy the flour before dusk. The rei's of the … abreast and moored side by side in front of a row of little

143

It was about five o'clock on a market day when we … to an open space in the upper part of the town, and found our- … cheap bracelets of bone and colored glass; camels lying at … access should not be visible from without. … escort, added some thundering blows with his staff and a

144

144 A TIIOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … In the midst of the clamor, however, and just as we are … Going down these steps we come to the original level of … of Denderah. The number of columns is the same. The

145

The general effect and the main features of the plan are … The figures are of the meanest Ptolemaic type and all of … The temple is dedicated to Knum*orKneph, the soul of … Soul of the Hods," and in this character, as well as in his solar char-

146

146 A TIIO USAND MILES UP THE NILE. … columns to right and left of the steps, next attract our at- … closet to the left of the main entrance the king underwent … in any spirit of antiquarian zeal, but in order to provide a … tions of the modern houses that swarm above its roof. An … under the hands of successive kings, as at Luxor? Or has

147

bronzes and statues may here await the pick of the ex- … scarcely more than one hour did it light up the front of … remainder of the day. Toward noon, however, the sun … somely, I present him with the magnificent sum of two

148

bread, a black-looking rissole of chopped meat and vege- … set to work to repair tissue at the briefest possible cost of … I made Talhamy scold him, by and by, for this piece of … skirts of the town. He volunteered to show the precise

149

able, that one might wear without the fear of breaking … " See now," I said, " if you are capable of selling me … he pulled a scrap of coarse paper from his bosom, borrowed … crack before a month is over. The sitt would do better … air of the most engaging candor, "these scarabs were … of the Arab. With all his cunning, with all his dis- … fellah is half a savage. Notwithstanding his mendacity

150

150 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … none. He commits no great crimes. He is incapable of … furnish endless studies of character, and teach you more … Then your crew, part Arab, part Nubian, are a little … Cairo. A third is just married, and has left his young … the nation. For the life of the beled repeats itself with

151

spends but half a year on the Nile may, if he takes an in- … really sees the whole land of Egypt. Going from point to … and none at all in Nubia, where one may not, from any … feh! Silence, Ali!") Talhamy would say from time to time. … But you could as easily keep a monkey from chattering … riyill" (lialf-a-dollar), "ethneen shilling" (two shillings), … Eileithyias. A rocky valley narrowing inland; a sheik's

152

152 A- THOUSAND MILES UP TEE NILE. … in "Inshallah !" ("God willing"). Talhamy talks of land- … points joyously to a white streak breaking across the … scudding along before a glorious breeze. … And now, with that irrepressible instinct of rivalry that

153

turn our good going into a trial of speed. It is no longer … The Philsa is larger than the Fostat; but the Fostat has a … the night, it is not to be thought of for a moment. … the dark river, scattering spray from their bows and … berths, spend half the night watching from our respective

154

154' A THOUSAND MILES TIP THE NILE. … We are now within fifteen miles of Assuan. The Nile is … we race for a stake. … magical word "guinee" stands for a sovereign now, as it … of the cataract is some two or three days' work this little … wrong side of the frontier.

155

much the Fostat gains in every quarter of an hour, and … by the reaches in the river; and these may be taken at a … miles from our destination. … words "Shamal—Yemin " ("left—right"), delivered in a … a hundred yards behind the Fostat. On we go, however, … and clouds of driving sand ; till the corner is turned, and … on full-tilt, like a racer at the hurdles.

156

15G A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NIL EL … stairs at a bound, and flies to the prow. The sailors … Philse bounds forward—takes the channel from under the … The rest of the way is short and open. In less than five

X: Assuan and Elephantine

157

The green Island of Elephantine, which is about a mile … the Libyan shore a sheik's tomb, on the Arabian shore a … A little apart from these lie some three or four dahabee-

158

158 A. THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … and are only kept off the landing-plank by means of 'two … no bronze or porcelain gods, no relics of a past civilization; … and pursuing us with eager cries of "Madame Nubia! … Having seen a similar fringe in the collection of a friend … besides adding a perfume dear to native nostrils.

159

his food are redolent of it. It pervades the very air in … purchase a " Madame Nubia" for the entertainment of … painter, arrayed in a gorgeous keliiyeh* and armed with … The governor laughed. He was a tall young man, grace- … * Kejpiyeli: A square head-shawl, made of silk or wollen. Euro-

160

1G0 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … governor watched the process of uncorking with a face of … animated expression of countenance, while the civilities on … At length our little stock of topics came to an end and … The smile vanished from the governor's face. The

161

publicly than of old; and that of all the sights a traveler … and lifted up their voices, and said all together, like a trio … we desired neither the gratification of an idle curiosity, … happened to be a waltz by Verdi. … There was even a shade of disappointment in the tone of

162

162 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Now it chanced that he had pitched upon a volume of … I never think of Assuan but I remember that curious … and the multitudinous combinations of Tannhaiiser. … away the remainder of the day. For time, which hangs … us by the Bey of Erment.

163

The question gave us a kind of shock. We could hardly … the sheik of the cataract at a solemn conclave over which

164

164 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

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these illegible scrawls, of the importance they were shortly … For the Egyptians, it seems, used potsherds instead of … collected on the frontier during the period of Roman rule … script of the people, and a few in the more learned hieratic, … the Ptolemies. Their clerics were Egyptians, and they had a chest … Note to Second Edition.—Other fragments of "Iliad" have … 1888, by Mr. Flinders Petrie in the grave of a woman at Hawara, in

166

a trace behind? "Who cast them down among the pot- … taste since the days of Iiamcses the Great. … away an armful of splendid plumes, most of which … they came from the hands of the ostrich-hunters.

167

Nubians the color of a Barbedienne bronze ; and natives … doubt of piled-up bales and packing-cases, like a spider in … A hole scooped in the sand, a couple of stones to support … we saw two brothers, natives of Khartum. AVe met them

168

108 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … complexions, free from any taint of Abyssinian blue or … unsicklied by the pale east of thought, and glowing with … remainder of the day to letter-writing. The painter, bent … Now the camel-riding that is done at Assuan is of the … care, in fact, never to scale the summit of a camel if they … from their regular work, and paraded up and down the … being that it enables one to realize the kind of work

169

of the desert, and (bearing in mind the probable inferiority … Buffon tells me, for instance, that he carries a fresh-water … Now the lying down and getting up of a camel are … fully made, lie has a superfluous joint somewhere in his … joints and more trying than his temper. He has four : a

170

170 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … modestly conscious of our own daring, we prepared to do … some of which are in the Oufic character and more than a … curiously melancholy and picturesque about this city of the

171

rocks of black and red granite profusely inscribed with … tracts of rolled bowlders, we come at last to a little group … of its yet visible surface. That surface bears the tool- … the largest obelisk in the world. The great obelisk of … J lad the king said in his heart that he would set up a … new English translation of Marietta's "Itineraire dela Haute Egypte"

172

172 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … on a smaller scale than those lower down the river, are … low cliffs have been sliced as neatly as the cheese in a cheese- … abundant here as in the breccia of Ilamamat. The great

173

these, like the song of the sirens or the alias of Achilles, … And now, there being still an hour of daylight, we sig- … tarn back, and, when obliged to yield to the force of cir-

174

174 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … —were the sentiments of our youthfnl Nubians. Nor were … hear the murmur of the rapids. Wo looked in vain for … once recognized the " Sheik el Shellal" (sheik of the cata-

175

like a flood and drowned them in warm shadows. … fluence of the camel. He acts as a tonic; he promotes … In Egypt, where the worship of ancestry and the pres-

XI: The cataract and the desert

176

176 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … through the gates of the cataract—which is, in truth, no … the ribbed hollow of a tiny sand-drift, there circling above … Arab, alone possesses the key. At the time of the inunda- … beeyahs up those treacherous rapids by sheer stress of rope

177

and every year brings a larger influx of travelers. Mean- … reared by the hand of man. Some are green with grass:

178

178 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … That we should ever get the PhilaB up that hill of … Presently, without removing the pipe from his mouth, he … natives. Hidden till now in all sorts of unseen corners,

179

of energy as if they were going to haul us up Niagara. … along the roi)es; the sheik gave the signal; and, to a wild … a rush, and swung over into a pool of comparatively … the performance against a still stronger current a little … moored for the night in the pool at the top of the first … not a man appeared upon the scene. At about midday

180

180 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … to keep us three days going up five miles of river, and that … Now the painter, being of a practical turn, had compiled … a harmless pleasantry—just as we looked upon his pocket- … as to the energy of his style or the vigor of his language. … do to help her a foot farther—bounded into his own rick- … the Rock of Aboosir, nor slake our thirst at the waters of … morning at sunrise appeared the sheik of the cata-

181

force of two hundred men. We were his dearest friends … giants, tugging away from morn till dewy eve, and never … a parting shout, dispersed to their several villages. … Egypt ends and Nubia begins, the nationality of the races … the midst of a people that have apparently nothing in … day as distinct and inferior a people as when their Egyp- … come to be included in the brief catalogue of their daily

182

182 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … form and slope of Egyptian pylons—of rude boats drawn … so poetical, that one is almost in danger of forgetting that … nestled in the hollow of a little bay; half-islanded in the

183

rear by an arm of backwater, curved and glittering like the … but on a larger scale. The shipping is tenfold more … Most of them had been slavers in the palmy days of IJefter- … even at the time of inundation. If their wicked old tim- … turning oil' in a northeasterly direction toward the desert, … from end to end of that huge furrow and not see that it was … within historic times; that is to say, in the days of

184

184 A 'THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … in the time of Amenemhat III, there must at some later … which I shall only mention briefly, is a series of short rock inscrip- … inundation and in the whole surface of the ground, both above and

185

now had played the part of a vast reservoir, and dispersing … There remains no monumental record of this event; but … met one day just coming out from Mahatta. It consisted … was slung with two loads, one at either side of the hump.

186

186 A THOUSAND MILES UP TEE NILE. … ing before it in clouds and the children following it out of … The passer-by adores the gods of the cataract; implores … ]\'ine-tenths of the ancient travelers who left their signa-

187

by a fourth of glossy calm. There being no breath of air

XII: Philiae

188

188 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE MLR … Having been for so many days within easy reach of … from the level of a small boat, the island, with its palms, … show no sign of ruin or of age. All looks solid, stately, … coming upon the principal temple from behind and seeing

189

every stone of it, and the platform on which it stands, and … tographs. Still, one is conscious of perceiving a shade of … undergone some kind of change. … equal to the summit of the Acropolis at Athens; and the

190

100 A THOUSAND MILES, UP THE NIL a. … a chapel fronted with Hathor-headed columns, and on the … is one of that order to which Champolliou gave the name

191

sculptures of Egypt. It may represent one of the two … sculptured" on the outer wall of another small chapel … trouve a Rosette. II resulte, en effet, de l'interprfitation du texte … ignorce an moment ou la stele a ete decouverte. Qui ne voit l'utilite

192

102 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Space has been left for it at the bottom of the tablet. We … Jusqu'a lui, on avait cru que cbacune des lettres qui composent … Ptolemee, on recontre a l'endroit correspondant du texte Egyptien un … nouveaux. Enfin, applique a d'autres cartouches, l'alphabet encore

193

This second inscription is cut upon the face of a block … Here again the inscription breaks off at the end of the de- … of the dominant race is likely enough to have been unpop- … poser les fondements de cette belle science qui a pour objet ('inter- … ducting his excavations at San (Tanis) in 180o. It dates from the … Note to Second Edition.—A third copy of the decree of Canopus,

194

19-t A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … the traditional dress of the Pharaohs. Theycould crown him … would like to linger over; as, for instance, the capitals of

195

sleep for a hundred years. The bas-reliefs on the walls, … girth of the columns as to give an air of wonderful light- … blues are of a greenish turquoise, like the western half of … * The famous capitals are not tlie only specimens of admirable

196

of the ceiling. At the upper end, whore the pillars stand … on that band of lotus buds and bees. Far more difficult … turbed, one sees that the columns are constructed of … but two large convents on the eastern bank a little higher

197

The religious history of Philaj is so curious that it is a … the tomb of the god, was to the pious Egyptian what the … the resting-place of the most beloved of the gods does not … the cataract was in the occupation of " Ethiopian nomads."

198

198 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

199

were still in occupation of the island and still celebrating … observe the terms of peace.* … of Nubia, the island sacred to Osiris would maintain its … was chanted in the precints of the heathen. One would

200

200 A. THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … sacred mysteries of the Egyptian ritual, the resurrected … at once the common property of a populous community. … The walls hereabout are full of these fugitive records. … dosius of Nubia," in another. Here and there an added … * The Emperor Justinian is credited witb the mutilation of the

201

monks installed themselves in that row of cells on the east … of children, the cackling of poultry and the barking of … Church of Christ, which still languishes in Egypt, is ex- … and only a ruined convent perched here and there upon … once again catch a fleeting glimpse of Philaj. The frontier … verted into 13) the Pilak of the hieroglyphic inscriptions … Belak is distinctly described as an island in the neighborhood of the

202

202 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Philas was still inhabited in A. n. 1799, when a detach- … from the French; flinging themselves into the river, … they used to keep up "a brisk and well-directed fire." … thing in Phihe, runs as follows: " A'An VI de la Republique, le 15

203

inhabitant of Philse; and 1 suspect he only crosses over … With the French siege and the flight of the native popu- … rooms unliglited by the faintest gleam from without, we … hawk of Ethiopia which he describes as " sick and nearly

204

204 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … light, we go up a well-worn staircase leading out upon the … dans le rleuve, le dieu ressuscitait d'entre les morts et apparaissait a … restres. Non seulement il devient son guide, mais il s'identifie a … de la supreme justice et ouvre a l'ame drclaree pure les portes

205

some part of his body, are variously fashioned. His head, … Monuments a Boulaq"—Aug. Jlariette Bey, 1873, pp. 105 et zeq.

206

206 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Osiris Onnofris appartient a la classe des dieux generaux qui ne sont … mistaken. Osiris and Isis are the Kile and Egypt. The myth of

207

drosses peculiar to the god; his legs and feet lie in a pylon- … "These vases, made of alabaster, calcareous stone, porcelain,

208

a08 A THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE. … From here, we look back upon the way we have come, and … right and vanishes behind a range of granite hills. … * See M. P. J. (le Horrnck's translation of " The Lamentations of

209

way straight across from Phila?. Last of all, forming the … a piaster into their outstretched hands. … like none that any of us have seen in our diverse wander- … "Operations Curried On at the Pyramids of Uhizeli,"—Col,

210

210 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … ings of Philae—the cataract, the river, the desert, the … phere of association which informs his subject; and the

XIII: Philiae to Korosko

211

strange and far from home, Nubia is stranger and farther … wider than a towing-path. In others, there is barely … of arable soil. Where the inundation has room to spread,

212

212 A TIIO USAND MILES UP THE NILE. … instead of the usual chorus of dogs barking furiously from … deposit nowhere exceeds half a mile in breadth; while for … nothing but the banks of one solitary river in the midst of … our path, showering down avalanches of granite on the … beautiful features in the landscape. They pour down from … Becalmed a few miles above Philse, we found ourselves

213

was standing at 80° in the coolest corner of the large … cinder-slopes and beds of mountain torrents; but this … Having paused to rest upon an out-cropping ledge of

214

214 A THOUSAND MILES UP 1'HE NILE. … who had trudged up in all haste from the nearest village … full value of its produce, had this year yielded not a … sisted, were but a shade less poor than herself. … And now, being fortunate in respect of the wind, which … The main features of the landscape go on repeating them- … and puff bladder fruit, like a green peach tinged with

215

got in a land where every green blade is precious to the … heat of the sun is so great at midday that, even with the … pebbles that here and there strew the surface of the sand, … to assess the relative value of every coin that passes current … contemptuously at the first piece of money he had ever

216

21G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … When on board, we begin now to keep a sharp lookout … day upon a sand island, some ten miles higher up. Mr. … the pylons of Dabdd with their background of desert; … water side; the cliffs, islands, and rapids of Kalabsheh,

217

sun is almost vertical; but the freshness of night and the … famous a constellation.

218

21S A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … As we round the corner, and Dakkeh, like a smaller Edl'u, … Thanks to a light breeze that sprang up in the afternoon,

219

The painter, with an eye to foregrounds, made a bid for … seen south of the cataract. As the dusk deepened the … jumped on board laden with a packet of letters and a sheaf

XIV: Korosko to Abou Simbel

220

220 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … It so happened that we arrived at Korosko on the eve of … the whole down with long draughts of Nile water; and … From Korosko to Derr, the actual distance is about

221

Landing from time to time when the boat was close in … Here also, for the first time out of Egypt, we observed … just about to turn back when we caught sight of the ducks … High above the Libyan bank on the sloping verge of the

222

222 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … looks like a portrait; every hieroglyphic form is a study in … to the reigns of Thothmes II and Thothmes III; … scribed; yet within those bounds he still enjoys a certain … crawl into the sanctuary upon our hands and knees. A

223

II, returning from his first campaign against the Ruten, … the fashion of the nineteenth century, she might have … The view from the roof, looking back toward Korosko … as in the old time when every crater was a font of fire.

224

Struggling next morning through a maze of sand-banks, … bank, empty. There was literally not a soul in sight. … end of which, facing the river, stood the governor's palace; … bought—bent also on finding out the whereabouts of a cer-

225

sign or shadow of moving creature. Only one young … All at once we heard a sound like the far-off quivering … The scene was a barren sand-slope hemmed in between … chant seemed to be divided into strophes, at the end of … with sand, which they scraped up, a bowlful at a time,

226

226 A TIIOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … upward at the corners, and an enormous mouth full of … with sobs — and, falling down in a sort of helpless heap, … the men betook themselves to a place where the rock had

227

animated, noisy throng dispersing in a dozen different … the governor'of Asstian had not reported over-favorably of … would like to know how much of it is derived … •—beginning high and descending through a scale divided … youth, it lias been handed down from generation to genera-

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chant of the sakkieh-driver have, perhaps, as remote an … The sculptures of the interior, though much dam- … Amen, stand face to face, hand in hand, on each of tho

229

are the wealth of the district; but it has no kind of sacred … sand was only a little darker than the rest, and, but for the … gated pebbles. One or two were fenced about with a mud

230

230 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … with their backs against a big leb'bich tree, surrounded by … Even in Egypt it docs not answer, as a rule, to go about … paint being but half-disguised under a thin veneer of … leaving about a couple of hundred disconsolate dealers on … from her gold brow-pendant for a good price ; but was in-

231

to trade were readiest to repent of their bargains. Even … The palms of Derr and of the rich district beyond were … natives and owe as much of their perfection to laborious … that the writer counted a line of fifteen within the space of … ranges over an unlimited gamut. From morn till dewy … Being obliged to moor a few miles beyond Derr and having

232

232 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … labor, and thinks it the chef-d'oeuvre of creation. When … like whisky. It is not a wine, however, but a spirit; … Certain trees—as for instance the perky little pine of the … " Subjects, indeed!" said once upon a time an eminent … Nothing more surprised me at first than the color of the

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At Ibritn—a sort of ruined Ehrenbreitstein on the top … be seen in the southern face of the mountain. They are, … scarcely worth the trouble of a visit. … breeze had dropped. Still we moved, impelled by a breath

234

234 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … That large one—the mountain of the great temple—held … For our sailors, meanwhile, there was the excitement of … To run upon a sand-bank at such a moment was like … mountain side like a huge picture in a mighty frame, was

235

with what they had seen from the river the rest of the … They went and stood at the feet of the colossi, and on … river glittered like steel in the far distance. There was a … sound of their own voices, seemed unreal. They felt as if

XV: Ramses the Great

236

236 A THOUSAND MILJSS UP THE NUM. … The central figure of Egyptian history has always been, … only to be made a posthumous usurper of glory, but to he … rns" remains to this day the representative Pharaoh of a … It is a purely living, a purely personal interest; such as one … tance. But with he second Rameses we are on terms of re-

237

OABTOUCHES OF RAMESES THE GREAT. … than a mere guide-book knowl- … In the desolation of Memphis, … of the verger, has about as vague a conception of the his-

238

238 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … officers of the palace with the double crown of the two … lists of Munetho for his basis, supposes the nineteenth dynasty to … the discovery of the Stella of Abydos. Bunsen dates his accession

239

the body-guard and the brigade of chariot-fighters"; but … aineers to flight." The events of the campaign of his … first year of his reign. Ten years have now gone by since

240

240 A 'THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … earliest instance of an extradition treaty upon record ; and … under the joint protection of the gods of both countries: … situated about half-way between the famous bas-relief of Sheshonk

241

official name of Ma-at-iri-neferu-Ea, or "Contemplating … These three were probably the only legitimate Avives of … For forty-six years after the making of the Khetan … caused artesian wells to be pierced in the stony bed of the … Sea, it follows that Queen Hatshepsu's squadron of discovery must

242

242 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … now impossible. Every temple, every palace, represented a … from their homes, without hope of return, driven in herds … mouths, traversed the whole length of the Mediterranean sea, gone

243

That Rameses II was the Pharaoh of the captivity,* and … pas de supposer que le roi eut sa residence a Thebes dans cet instant. … "II est impossible d'attribuer ni a- Meneptah I, ni it Seti II, ni a … pas que ce souverain a occupe les Hebreux a la construction de la ville … more vague for purposes of identification. "Plus generalement," … par rapport a la division de l'Egypte en deux parties. C'est du titre

244

244 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … discovery of Nineveh. It was in February, 1883, that M. … the plebeian class to speak or write of the sovereign. It can scarcely … however, had but once recorded the cartouche name of either of his

245

eloquent testimony to the toil of the suffering colonists … with the leafage of a reed common to the marsh lands of … tance from Heroopolis to Clysma. A very curious manu- … *This remarkable manuscript relates the journey made by a female … Haran. Of Pithom it is said: "Pithonaetiam civitas quam oedifica-

246

246 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … a letter on "Pithom-HeroOpolis" communicated to "The Academy" … *See M. Xaville's memoir, entitled "Goshen and the Shrine of … f Kadesh, otherwise Katesh or Kades. A town on the Orontes.

247

Aperiu [Hebrews?], who quarry stone for the palace of … found in the ruins of Memphis and now form part of the … of JVI. Chabas' identification of the Hebrews. The name by which … quon pent tirer de la transcription. Xeannioins. il y a lieu de prendre … l'assiniilation proposee—decouverte importante qu'il est a desirer de … horse-trainers, which certainly tells against the probability of their

248

248 -A- THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … of other workmen. They are well fed. They intermarry. … these two letters of the Leyden collection—some as old, … give for a few more of their letters! These men knew … his youth while yet he lived under the protection of his … ments of papyrus have survived the wreck of ages, and … f In a letter written by a priest who lived during this reign (Rame- … ''And the tale of the bricks, which they did make heretofore, ye

249

and kept accurate entries of the keep and labor of their … country. Even in the time of the pyramid-builders, there … briques antiques a ete parfaitement reconnu. D'un autre cote, le … scription: ' Compte des macons, 12; en outre des homines a mouler … written on the back of the papyrus already quoted (i. e. Letter of

250

250 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … An unusually long reign, the last fortyr-six years of … an exhaustive catalogue of his known architectural works … as vast as his means appear to have been unlimited. From … de batisses d'apres l'ordre du Pharaon. Les carrieres, a partir de

251

dentally discovered under the mounds of Tel-el-Yahoodeh,* … An inscription found of late years at Abydos shows that … such length of reign as Rameses II, the great god, in his … tains several of these tiles and terra-cottas, some of which are painted … f'he cartouches are those of Kameses 111. The discovery was made … l_7th September, 1887, containing a complete account of the excava- … offered to Osiris by Kameses IV in the fourth year of his reign,

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252 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … nothing to show that this youth of ten was, at the time … Rameses II was designated during the lifetime of his father by a … M. Maspero is of opinion that this one fragment establishes tho

253

would be that the stela of Dakkeh (dating as it does from … three years of his sole reign is proved by the date of the … work of Gourmah, of Adydos, of all those buildings which … sons delineated and that they would be guilty of no glaring

254

254 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE MLB. … tomed to a certain amount of courtly exaggeration on the … flatterer should go so far as to credit a lad of thirteen with … know so well. Moses is born, cast adrift in the ark of bul- … II, though born a king, was not merely grown to man-

255

the reign of Eameses II.* This may very well be. The … derneires six annees du regne de Menepthah; e'est a dire entre 1327 … T If the exodus took place, however, during the opening j-ears of … self perish with his host, seems certain. The final oppression of the

256

256 A THOUSAND MTLES UP THE NILE. … legend of his blindness and self-slaughter; it must be ad- … Such are, very briefly, the leading facts of the history … of the gods.| There are even instances in which he is … Egypt with luxuries that contributed alike to the graces of every-day … opposite direction, can see no trait of magnanimity or goodness in one

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depicted under the twofold aspect of royalty and divinity— … bettor nor worse than the general run of oriental despots— … living representative of deity. His princes and ministers

XVI: Abou Simbel

258

We came to Abou Simbel on the night of the 31st of … under the steep bank, and, without lifting one's head from … distinct in the steady light of day; and the colossi—mere … from death to life, from life to sculptured stone. I brought

259

one is too far off ; while from the sand-slope only a side … Yet, in truth, the head of the young Augustus is not … been one of the handsomest men, not only of his own day, … *The late Vicomte E. de Rouge, in a letter to M. (Juigniaut on the … "ulices, pouvaient deja. engager a la reporter vers la Basse Egypte. … bains." (See "Revue Archeologique, vol. ix, A. D. 1864.) In the

260

A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Here, for instance, is an outline from a bas-relief at … fullness and repose of the later portraits, … of one of the caryatid colossi inside … rage of early youth. He is no longer impul- … his arm to slay it would be with the stern placidity of a

261

PROFILE OF RAMESES II.

262

262 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … hardship need believe that he has seen the faces of the … ever, embarrassed by no difficulties of focus, daunted by no … twenty-five feet and four inches; from the shoulder to the … with the thousands of tons of material to which they here

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gave human form. Consummate masters of effect, they … But the trunk and the lower limbs they regarded from a … here subordinated to the general effect of breadth, of mas- … look scarcely inferior in girth to the great columns of Kar- … fect delicacy and even finesse of execution may be gathered … Egyptiens d'entre prendre le travail a menie sur la pierre, sans avoir

264

to bear upon the subject, is of opinion that the Egyptian … are injured, and the head of the u ranis sculptured on the … lost not only the whole beard and the greater part of tho … mathomatiquement definitive. Ce proce'de' a toujours ete employ^ … were with Psamatichus, the son of Theocles, wrote this: 'They sailed,

265

some of Greek, some of Phoenician origin, tower so high … receive rivets, supposing the belts to have been made of … ceaseless shifting and blowing of the sand. Yet the drift … above the surface he seems to have observed no traces of … I of the inscriptions. It whs in his reign, and not as it has some-

266

206 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … minative of metals, signifies gold (nub) ; but when … head of a hawk and the sun-disk on his head. " Ra veut dire faire, … cree le soleil; le soleil, a son tour, est le createur des etres, animaux

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facade of the great temple. Forever descending, drifting, … whole temple in a winding-sheet of golden sand, so that … up (a. d. 1813). The top of the doorway was then thirty … of the Libyan desert, the supply from above is inex- … nished, when the Empress of the French, after opening the … How well I remember the restless excitement of our first

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2G8 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … The smaller one, though it comes first in order of sail- … In this arrangement, as in the general character of the

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Varied turns of old Egyptian style upon the architraves … The legend within, after enumerating the titles of the … Rameses, this temple was placed, primarily, under the patronage of … indicates a lofty philosophical standpoint, but as it reveals, perhaps, … There is often a quaint significance about Egyptian proper names

270

270 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … examine the lesser one in detail. A solemn twilight … emblems of majesty and dominion. It is the attitude of … Beyond the first hall lies a second hall supported on four … shape a truncated pyramid, cut from the solid rock. … They had lit the place with magnesian wire ; the vapor of

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from without, now stumbling along by the light of a bunch … in the Nineveh sculptures. A man driving off cattle in … fire of such immortal strain as were the coursers of … woolly-headed, that only the pathos of the expression saves

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M2 A THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE. … ion of the king; the march of infantry : the shock of … A grand frieze of chariots charging at full gallop divides

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together an astonishing variety of incidents. The horses … is intercepted by a couple of grooms. Other grooms … as abjectly subject to the rule of stick as his modern … the middle of the camp, watched over by his keeper, lies … To enumerate all or half the points of interest in this

274

274 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … details. Nor is this all. Owing to some kind of saline … have been eaten away, just as iron is eaten by rust. A few … is almst Panathenaic in its effect of multitudinous move- … langes d'Aiolieologie," Egyp. and Assyr., vol. ii, p. 209. Also a

275

from which everything that does not immediately concern … fight, and are wOunded, just like the long-haired sons of … Like Homer, too, the artist of the battle-piece is careful … mounted by a ball and two spikes, by which they may al- … had drifted up just at that spot and only the top of one

276

276 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … possible to form any idea of the general effect of this vast … writer to copy the inscription on the middle tower of the … falls like fire from heaven upon the altar at the feet of … a direct manifestation of his presence to have approved the … and content to wonder, like rustics at a fair. We had,

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fro among these sculptured halls, like a shade among … when it was a little earlier, and therefore a little lighter … upon me that a whole mountain hung—ready, perhaps, … nothing. It would have been a grand way of dying, all … on active duty, or held a candle while I sketched patterns … ]s entirely the work of Ivameses II, and betrays no sign

278

278 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … found crypts in the thickness of the walls and recesses … ing; the idler idling; strangers from the outer world now … The happy couple took advantage of this good wind to

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of Burckhardt and Belzoni. He received our happy couple … We now despaired of ever seeing a crocodile; and but … the water's edge had taken the mold of his huge fleshy … shore, was more excited than we of the Philaj at sight of … ready for the fray. He caused a shallow grave to be dug … roundelays together. But when rumors came of wonder-

280

280 A- THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILS. … patches with coffee. This they did with bits of sponge … Hassan artistically touching up a gigantic nose almost as … picked up in Cairo. They took with them some barrels of plaster

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sumed I know not how many gallons a day. Our cook … proved a capital match for the sandstone ; and though it … this beautiful face as with the unsightlincss of leprosy. … canvas in front of the temple; the writer shifting her little … most among these comes the difficulty of position. The

282

282 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … into your skies; and reduces your Chinese white to a gritty

XVII: The Second Cataract

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A fresh breeze, a full sail, and the consciousness of a … would become a mere lumbering barge, more suggestive of … fringed by a long line of volcanic mountains, as much … fantastic. L------picked up some like petrified bunches of … ably of fiery parentage. One seems to see how, boiling

284

284 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Abou Simbel, the view widens, and a host of outlying … of some great rock-cut temple, the entrance to which is now entirely … absolutely certain from the tenor of a large stela sculptured on the

285

up here and there from the desert, on both sides, like the … One is four-sided, like a pyramid; another, in shape a … rock a few paces north of the smaller temple at Abou Simbel. This … shows Rameses II enthroned and receiving the homage of a certain … al presente occulto a noi."—Kosellini Letterpress to " Monumenti

286

wore away the softer parts of the rock and left the harder … tance and the lonely peak called the Mountain of the Sun … might have fought many a battle on this open plain, suggest … ing ourselves that we will at least excavate one of the … enter upon a more desolate region, where the mountains

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and not one believed him. They had seen too many of … laughed the pilot to scorn. It was the worst imitation of … We three had a bad time when the other two came up … skins, under the most brilliant sky in the world and in a … ]ate of progress they might reasonably hope to reach Cairo

288

288 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Egyptian buildings—once upon a time on the western bank … the sand-cliff ridge which, as I have said, forms a back-

289

a good breeze from the right quarter, there is, as regards … Landing among the tamarisks at the foot of the cliff, … are comforted with draughts of ice-cold lemonade, brought … tbis is the end of our journey. The cataract—an immense … still pools unbroken by a ripple ; everywhere full of life,

290

290 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the amber of the sands ; the pink and pearly mountains; … scene into words is a mere presumptuous effort to describe … If a traveler pressed for time asked mo whether ho … * Mount Fogo, as shown upon Pveitli Johnston's map of Egypt and

291

think I should recommend him to turn back from Abou … would seem as if we had touched the limit of civilization, … ning of the mighty river. We have journeyed well-nigh … 15.'s, who had been here a week, were full of crocodile

292

292 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … crawls into a hole, or, in his agony, becomes entangled … AVe came back to find the mainyard laid along like a roof- … Thus dismantled, the dahabceyah becomes, in fact, a gal- … live-and-twenty miles, we came to a dead-lock about half- … of the felucca, our luckless Philse, after oscillating for

293

hours within the space of a mile, was run at last into a … four men to row and dig, a fire-shovel, a small hatchet, an … without, were two or three good spades, a couple of picks, … of pure alluvial mold, smooth, solid, and symmetrical. We … the center of the mound, we at all events succeeded in … Whether these formed only the foundation of the … As we came away, we met a Nubian peasant trudging … would repay a more systematic investigation.

294

294 A THOUSAND MILES UP TIIE NILE. … had not calculated upon the difficulty of either threading … is one of the many pleasant things that one has to remem- … work of sight-seeing and sketching begins again,

XVIII: Discoveries at Abou Simbel

295

We came back to find a fleet of dahabeeyahs ranged … next day added the Ebers, with a couple of German … What with arrivals and departures, exchange of visits, … It was by comparing our watches with those of the

296

29G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … eleven hours of day to thirteen of night, we decided to … time of ours, that the southern cross was now visible every … heavens, are seen in a free space of sky. If they make, … an angle of about thirty degrees, it necessarily looks dis- … time, according to Philffl reckoning, about eleven A. m., … front of the great temple, climbed to the top of a little … ing almost due south, and approachable only by a narrow

297

Halfeh, and had remarked how fine the view must be from … some much mutilated sculptures on the face of the rock, a … He stooped—cleared the sand away a little with his hand … to a depth of quite four feet. … They were the hands and arms, apparently, of four

298

298 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … this kind of a group many a time before—and generally … close of the meal, however, came a penciled note, the con- … a tomb. Please send some sandwiches. A. M'O------." … All that Sunday afternoon, heedless of 23ossible sun- … when we paused for a moment's breathing-space, we said … And now, more than ever, we felt the need of in^flo- … baskets; some carried the baskets to the edge of the cliff

299

DISCO VEBIES A T ABO U SIMBEL. 299 … sand poured off in a steady stream like water. … found a hole scarcely as large as one's hand, through … down from the top of a sand-slope into a small square … great gap in the middle of the ceiling, where the rock had … That evening was held a solemn council, whereat it was

300

300 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … appearance in a rickety old boat, the bottom of which was … baskets, and a number of little slips of planking which, … sons and a following of a hundred men. This was so … wall and the center of the floor was not, as we had at … ceiling would have taken a long time and have caused in-

301

D1SG0 VERIES A T ABO U SLVBEL. 301 … Seeing, therefore, that three-fourths of the decorations … Nubian sheik—a tall, well-featured man with much … writer took him in hand and fed Lira with all kinds of … telling the waiter with a grimace, that the berries were … heard and inhaling it with closed eyes, in a kind of

302

302 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … So paper and a reed pen were produced and Talhamy … A model letter this; brief and to the point. … five piasters, or about a shilling English, for each man per … the first time, we fairly entered into possession of our … lady took their books and knitting there, and made a little

303

endeavoring to make out the plan of certain fragments of … but enough of the walls remained above the surface to … The southern boundary wall of this hall, when the sur- … set to work with a couple of sailors to probe the center part … the next instant his hand came in contact with the edge of

304

304 A. THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … a chance Nubian grave, and that the bowls (which at first … of such a pit, scarcely occurred to us as an incongruity. … As the work of excavation went on, however, the vault … * It was long believed that the Egyptians were ignorant of the

305

ously paved with cones of rude pottery like the bottoms of … They bore no stamp, and were much shorter and more … and included the bottom of the staircase. … ourselves that the discovery of a large brick pylon, the ex- … Having traced thus far the course of the excavations … ended, I had but a short time at my disposal, I would … content with transcribing the inscriptions and sketching a

306

306 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … in the lintel, mark the place of the pivot on which the … feet; width, twenty-two and one-half feet: wid.tli of prin-

307

post to which to tie one of the main ropes of his sketching- … Scale fi of in l/ic7i.-to it Foot. … 4. Walls of outer hall or pronaos. … 7. Torus of pylon.

308

A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILK … feet in width, and that the walls on each side of it are … upon the inner side of the walls of the pronaos. If any- … I have now to speak of the decorations of the adytum, … The ceiling is surrounded by a frieze of cartouches sup-

309

being divided from the next by a small sitting figure. … size of life. In the division to the right, … to Ra occupy the right half of each structure. An upright … STANDARD OF HORUS

310

310 A THOUSAND MILES UP TEE NILE. … a pectoral ornament; a rich necklace of alternate vermilion … * " Le sceptre ;t tete de levier, nomine a tort sceptre a tete de con- … There were almost as many varieties of Amen in Egypt as there

311

clerful preservation of the surface enabled one to see by … and in his left a small bas- … any of these heads of … and flowing line of Egyp-

312

312 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE. … 1. Rameses, life-size, presiding over a table of offerings. … The surface being here quite perfect, the details of these … H'nttenm. Zeitung, xxxix, 430) has shown them to be sulphide of … of metal. If not of sulphurated copper, it may have been

313

2. Two tripods of light and elegant design, containing … of the boat being richly carved, decorated with the uta* … ___a … numbering of the columns, beginning at 1 and

314

314 A THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE. … At the upper end of this wall is depicted a life-size … 1 M. Grehaut, in his translation of a hymn to Amen-Ka, observes: … * This inscription was translated for the first edition of this book … § These jubilees, or festivals of thirty years, were religious jubilees

315

hero a portrait of Nefertari corresponding to the portrait … in the center of which are the cartouches of Rameses II … ■Ihe doorway also occurs in this wall, occupying a space … I have described the female figure at the upper end of … hand, at a height of between three and four feet from tho … There are, in the British Museum, some bottles and vases of this

316

316 A THOUSAND MILES DP THE NILE. … uninjured. Below these were traces of other fragmentary … lines of forms already familiar to us in the hieroglyphs— … and we set it down in our own minds as the writing of either … written, not as we had supposed by the artist, but by a

317

parentage of our visitor. "We gather, however, that he … NORTII WALL OF SrEOS. … a' once Amnion Ra-IIarniachis,\ the god at the first time,* who

318

318 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … What was the nature and character of the monument … built first and that the south boundary wall of the pronaos, … reason, placed at the side of the temple and on a lower … of the word, a temple?

319

no trace of any altar—no fragment of stone dais or sculpt- … these subjects are Ka and Amen-lla, the tutelary gods of the … _ Now Thoth was,par excellence, the God of Letters. He

320

320 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … been abandoned. If it had been open in the time of the

321

pylon, reduced thepronaosof the library to a heap of ruin, … rescued the sacred books from among the ruins, and then … thinks of looking for them. But such was not the case in … Column is cracked across, a wall has been built up to support the

322

322 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … then a tomb is found and left unopened, and the illustrious … charm of unpremeditation, re-opened a day or two after. … of opening it. But, he added, although ho left no likely … f There are tombs in some of the ravines behind, the temples,

323

poured out from within, like water escaping from an … time when the great sand-drift rose as high as the top of … tlie wall-paintings which we had the happiness of admiring … <l»d sculptures are defaced. The Louvre contains a full-

XIX: Back Through Nubia

324

324 A THOUSAND MILES UP T11E NILE. … Philae; to say nothing of grottoes, tombs and other ruins. … fewer. Miss Martineau tells how, in this part of the … than in these Nubian buildings) the slow deterioration of the

325

places upon which I bestowed hours of delightful labor. … With never a blade of green between the rock and the river. … climb a solitary rock about two hundred feet above the … green of the corn, and the Nile flows wide among sand-

326

326 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … castor-berry patches. A funeral with a train of wailers … silvery reaches of river, and ending in a vast flat, so blue … .Bosnian forefathers of three hundred and sixty years ago. … saw these unfortunates trotting at the heels of their mis-

327

the middle of breakfast we see two—a little one and a big … black, like the trunk of a London elm, and measures full … The thermometer stands at 85° in the saloon of the

328

338 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … painter is bargaining for the crocodile and L------for a … ishly from its tiny throat is as sweet and brilliant as a ca- … near a village, the natives squat on the bank and stare at

329

DISCO VERIES A T ABO U SIMBEL. 329 … dess. The writer, meanwhile, hidden behind a curtain, … and Maharrakeh, in a sjiot quite bare of vegetation, stand … fragments of black, red and yellowish pottery, like the

330

330 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … banks of an extinct river. … doubt, however, if when it was a river of water this … days when the river was a river and the plain fertile and … quently, to a time when those barren hills collected and … the land of Kush flowed with milk and honey.*

331

same evening, when the sun was setting, we saw a fan-like … Coming back, we met a solitary native, with a string of … Our stock of Arabic was so small and his so interlarded … search of this birbeh and never come back. Was he … ^l[t it is one of the misfortunes of this kind of traveling … tying as high as from twenty to thirty feet ahove the level of the

332

332 A THOUSAND MILES UP Til E NILE. … dahabeeyah lay within rowing reach of anything -worth … We are beset hereby an insolent crowd of savage-looking … long in the barrel; and some of the others carry slender … north, at the northern extremity of the peninsular tract anciently

333

drawn up to receive us. There is a large sand island in the … flocks of pigeons flying low overhead; barking dogs and … col>.Y has since been identified with an ex-voto of a Roman soldier … i Sec 'I'll,: ScarabcBus Sacer, by C. Woodrooffe, B. A.—a paper

334

334 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … walls of a huge crude brick structure, black with age, … molded torus, and surrounded by a deep dry moat, which … * See chap, x, p. 163. Dakkeh (the Pselcis of the Greeks and

335

DISCO VlttllKS A T ADO U SIMDEL. 335 … At Kobban also was found the famous stela of Barneses II, called … Contra Pselcis must be the same town."—" Topography of Thebes," … Jhat these were not the sovereigns of the country—but Caesar. … tor they carried large shields 'made 'of raw hides, and hatchets for

336

3BC A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … twenty. Vertical on the inside, they are built at a but- … of a plan. It is only by an effort that one gradually … still occupies the middle of the river and obstructs the approach to

337

almost to its foundations. Only the well in the middle of … need but imagine how the Tower of London would look if … Built up against the inner side of the wall of circuit are … battlements, unless by ladders. The finest of these towers, … Going out by the north entrance, we find the sides of … here and Cairo we shall see no more curious relics of the … ,Ve 110w rarely meet a dahabeeyah. Birds are more plenti-

338

338 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … going to bed, we hear sounds of drumming on the eastern … ing, bobbing, poussetting, pursuing each other at a gallop, … as it is probable, they are celebrating the festival of some … way up to the temple, which is excavated in the face of a

339

while those of the avenue outside have distinctly Ethiopian … np a dead one afterward, when the rush was over, and … ting and a delicious gloom is stealing up the valley, we … matters not that these delicately wrought bas-reliefs are of … " C'est un ouvrage non aclieve du temps de 1'Erapereur A.uguste.

340

340 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … labsheb. One of the men has a fine old two-handed sword … ment of the unaccustomed dainty. … than almost any sculptures in Egypt. The procession of … tives and visitors, they are still beautiful. The colour of … it is yet brilliant. An emerald-green Osiris, a crimson

341

But if the decorative work in the presence-chamber of the … crude and violent coloring,* we have never seen the like of. … level of the original pavement. Here, again, the earth- … traces hero, in fact, the four jirocesses of wall decoration. … Jt a stage farther ; yonder the painter has begun to … is the Greek inscription of Silco of Ethiopia, f This in- … rilliant ultramarine. There are also traces of gilding on many of

342

3-13 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … 1 vanquished them a second time; and the first time … I trusted them; because they are a people of good faith. … For I am a lion on the plains, and a goat upon the mountains. … white teeth and liquid eyes, and a profusion of gold and … a palm-wood couch, raises herself for a moment on her … | Blemyes: The Blemeys were a nomadic race of Berbers, supposed

343

which mode of construction was adopted in order to offer … of lace Roman date, it follows that earthquakes were yet … been effected by human means without the aid of power- … riiin, one quite perfect, and now used as a stable. There … "W'ii a sacred college, like the sacred college of Phiije,

344

344 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … This same native, having sold a necklace to the idle man … and down like a maniac; tears off his turban; goes through … moment. Kei's Hassan looks grave, fearing a possible … bank. A whole hour goes by thus, so giving the storm

345

evidence of the sincerity of the religious sentiment in the … We are now less than forty miles from Phila?; but … crumbs from the bottom of their bread-chest three or four … "nable to help them. Talhamy, whose own stores are at a … violent hands upon Talhamy's reserve of eggs and biscuits … Under a burning sky we touch for an hour or two at

346

346 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Ptolemies and Cajsars. The one curious thing about it is a … villages round about, get leave of absence for a week; and … * In these secret chambers (the entrance to which was closed by a

347

DISCO VBRIBS A T ABO U SIMBBL. 347 … opposite; and L------and the little lady write no end of … lot us hope—an ill-directed ambition foiled of crocodiles! … A flight of quail had risen ; and as quail fly low, skim- … aud, with admirable presence of mind, drew the charge of

348

348 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … the gun wrenched from his grasp, and received a blow on … a private war on our hands, no captain, and one of our … we held a hasty council of war. … Outwardly indifferent, inwardly not a little anxious, wo … sit down; and when a Nubian sits down, you may be sure

349

DISCO VERIES A T ABO 0 SIMBEL. 349 … water, and L------covered them with patches of sticking- … of future travelers, to lodge a complaint against the village; … -Hereupon the spokesman gathered up a handful of imagin- … Jio law but his pleasure and no justice but the will of the

350

350 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … opinion, being ignorant of the Egyptian civil code? and … effort to realize the full force of this explanation—an ex- … ment, with a hundred and fifty blows of the bastinado.

351

of the rest of the sentence. The governor as formally … With a profusion of compliments; the governor protesting … pened, when the afternoon of the eighth came round, that … while, have turned to a subdued golden bronze; and the

352

352 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … colonnades, these deep, quiet spaces of shadow, these sleep-

XX: Silsilis and Edfu

353

Going, it cost us four days to struggle up from Assiian … brought with him a following of fifty stalwart shellalees; … Consigned thus to the protection of the prophet; win- … the distance; now, at every stroke of the oars, that rushing

354

354 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … In the midst of these preparations, when everybody … second we seem to tremble on the edge of the fall. Then … stands motionless with uplifted arm; for at the end of the … ing splendidly to the word of command, begins to turn be- … Great is the rejoicing. Ivei's Hassan, in the joy of his

355

cataract. His momentary flash of energy over, he slouches … grossly exaggerated the dangers of the Big Bab. But such … All dahabeeyahs, however, are not so lucky. Of thirty- … I'ound on dry land by way of the desert; but this was a … -Nile of Egypt. If instead of five miles of cataract we had … swing from morning till night. Again the smoke goes up

356

350 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE. … gush of the current, almost tempt one's pencil into the for- … tell. We only know that an ancient city and a mediaeval … ing away piecemeal from below what the desert has … accomplished the main object of his journey, he was glad … tion complete a Horus, et c'est it ce titre qu'il uta.it adOl'e il Ombos,"

357

Cairo. That opportunity—represented by a noble duke … reached Silsilis on the morning of the 17th of March the … space for a footpath; in others, none. There are also some … climatic conditions of Lower Nubia, there is no sign what-

358

355 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … executed sculptures in low relief, some of which yet retain … engraved to need description. The votive shrines of the … crowned god of the Nile. This last was the tutelary deity … lait divin le roi Horns, encore enfant. L'Egypte n'a jamais, comma … cliarme et etonne a la fois."—•" Itineraire de la llaut Egypte." A

359

goddess named Ta-nr-t,* represented in one of the side … w'th an offering of two sistrums. As a hippopotamus … °cc»pies a prominent place in the facade of the Mammisi. … la-ur-t, or Apet the Great. "Cette Deesse a corps dlrippopo- … . a.l°r, or the Great Bear."—" (inide to the FirBtand Second Egyptian

360

300 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … separated by a thin partition of rock, opened a second and … the blows of the mallet, and echoed back the voices of the … out smooth and straight, like hay from a bay-rick. Every-

361

whitish, or brownish, or traversed by veins of violet, it has … tents borrowed from the mudir of the district. Luckily … tents were still there, and a gang of natives, under the … when tide and wind set together from the west. To hear … with brown foam, large lumps of which came swirling

362

3G2 A THOUSAND MILKS UP TEE NILE. … met a troop of them going down to the dahabeeyah with … Ten years ago nothing was visible of the great Temple … forty feet of soil. Its terraced roof was a maze of closely … eight more which approached too near the outer wall of the … * Letter of M. Mariette to Vicomte E. de Rouge: " Revue Arcbi'olo-

363

now standing free in a deep open space, the sides of which … glimpses of a grand court-yard, and of a vista of door- … -I1 he cnstode—a pigmy of six foot two,in semi-European dress … Who enters that gate crosses the threshold of the past, … hut for a few roofing-stones missing just over the sanctu-

364

3G4 A THOUSAND MILES UP TllM NILE … one hundred and forty in width; that the entire length of … in a religious sense ; for the myths of Horusf and Ila- … every doorway, the outer wall of the temple, the inner side … architect of Denderah has departed from his model it has invariably … Le personnage d'Horus se rattache sous des noma differents, a deux

365

tlio poem of Pentaur. Those went out with the Pharaohs … the depths of the Edfu mine'and brings back as much … Mafek, or Great of Turquoise. These boats, it would

366

3G6 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … processions and consumed the lives of millions in erecting … their praise. Wo know from what a subtle and philosoph- … forty-two steps to the top of each tower of the propylon. … 1888, for an account of how the statues of Isis and other deities were

367

pylons are on a grand scale, with wide beveled windows … hke the lairs of prairie-dogs than the dwellings of human … 0|ie side by the river, and on the other by the desert. A … course for miles where it is only a trodden track in the … ue sai'ie moment, like a beautiful specter, there rises from

368

308 A THOUSAND MILES UP Tllti NlLti. … instant, another appears a long way off toward the south, … hanging suspended for a moment, spreads and floats … not a sand-column left. As they came, they vanish— … almost perfect pavement; the flat roof compact of gigantic

369

reconstruct the ground-plan of the whole building in hiero- … the river yonder and the procession of Jlor-llat issued … aml assuming the first posture of devotion. The women go

XXI: Thebes

370

370 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … "We had so long been the sport of destiny that we hardly … boats one may fairly calculate upon an average of twelve … while some of the better sort—grave men in long black … and produce from some hidden pocket a purseful of scar- … not easy to define the shades of difference in their dealings.

371

their hieroglyphed limestone tablets, are executed with a … nights searching for treasure. Some hundreds of families … down his hoe as you pass and runs beside you for half a … manly native who sits next to you at dinner has a wonder- … -flourishing as it is, the trade of Luxor labors, however,

372

372 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … sides of the river. … presence of the consul. In about ten minutes, however, … I met that well-dressed Arab a day or two after, near the

373

The Boulak authorities keep a small gang of trained … ■Thanks to the courtesy of the governor, we had the good … v'ne that trailed along the wall; the vivid violet of the … We found the new tomb a few hundred yards in the rear … aPpeared an outline of something buried. The men, throw- … lace were carved in high relief. The ground-color of the … tin l was' "° tlo,ll|f. an interment of the period of the twenty-

374

374 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … my-case was then raised upright, hoisted to the brink of … thetic lying at the bottom of its grave in the morning sun- … " .Notice des Monuments a 13oulak, p. 40. Paris, 1S73,

375

It was a hot climb ; the sun blazing overhead ; the cliii's … As a child " The Manners and Customs of the Ancient … some previous stage of existence ; that I had walked with … Presence of Osiris, and sees his heart weighed in the bal- … still waiting for a bite, is another old acquaintance; and … "ever play to the end of their concerto? Are those Indies

376

376 A- THOUSAND MILKS UP THE MILE. … the right figure. These people lived in the time of the … mummy in the recesses of the stable, which had been a … I asked him why the excavators, instead of working … in fact, only a sum sufficient for the wages of fifty excava- … M. IS.'s in the second hall of the Eamosseum. It was but

377

a little way off, silent and hungry-eyed, eacli with his … this place is a problem which future discoveries may pos- … obvious could ever have been doubted. Diodorus was of … T Possibly the Smendes of Manetho, and the Ba-eu-Ded whose

378

3?8 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … see before us the three entrances to the hall of pillars and … claimant to this identification is found in a king named Se-Mentu, … xviii, of the present work; p. 319.

379

their friends on the opposite bank. A red-haired chief, … measure of his foot," says Diodorus, "exceeded seven … ■i He sitting colossus of the Ramesseum was certainly tlie largest … we must add the height of the crown, which would proportionately … statue ever executed." The weight of the figure is calculated by Mr.

380

380 A THOUSAND MILES tTP Tim MILE. … sus sculptured in the red syenite of Assuan.* … ported from Assuan, how it was raised, how it was over- … ing, perhaps, as a wreck than it would have been as … with which they were originally filled in. To judge from

381

ished as the cutting of the finest gem. Even the ground … the usual pompous titles of Rameses Mer-Amen. Diodorns, … invisible after midday. It was not till the occasion of my … vere passed and all the appointments and ornaments of the

382

382 A THOUSAND MILES UP Tim NILE. … will note only a few points of special interest, referring … The ruins of Medinet Habu consist of a smaller temple … The walls of this pavilion, the walls of the great fore- … * Among these are Abot, or abode; meaning the abode of Amen;

383

!'fe of Rameses III precisely what Abou Simbel, the … aft" I others in a tomb behind Medinet Habu. Purchased soon … 1) 9 lof Jameses HI;" S. Birch: " Records of the Past," vol. vi, … tWentioH tlisuing tlje native dynasty of the Theban kings, the

384

384 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … It may not have been a palace. It may have been only … foreigners who had attacked Egypt. The maritime nations of the … flicted a severe defeat on the confederated west, and returned with … magnificence and grandeur; and if his domestic life was that of an … it is not known how he died; but he expired after a reign of thirty-

385

three points of an acute angle. These structures inclose … eight rooms; namely, three—one above the other in each of … incket representing the head and shoulders of a crouching … ...1- ? of which is painted in a rich and intricate pattern, … or ornaments complete, it must have formed a composition

386

386 A THOUSAND MILES UP THIS NILE. … among the most celebrated of Egyptian bas-reliefs. They … sits at ease in a kind of folding-chair, his helmet on his … place at the time of the Arab invasion, or during the raid of Cam-

387

can still be discerned from below by the help of a glass, … 01 Rameses III, and to confirm the domestic character of … —_, ..._____, ......... ___ ....me of Khampsinitus, is … Viewing these tales by the light of a certain passage of the … . t"A Medinet Habou, dans son palais.il s'est fait representer … etoaote a fait la Demeter figyptienne, comme il a fait d'Osiris le

388

of a religious and military character. The king, as usual, … sword is sharp as that of his father Mentu."f … * Baal, written sometimes Bar, was, like Sutekh, a god borrowed … nated as "the Great of Sardinia," "the Great of Sicily," "the Great

389

Medinet Habit sculptures. Pelasgians from the Greek … Hv JB grand blue of the ceiling of the colonnade of the Great

390

390 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … border; there are invaders coming in ships from the islands … captured, scathed, as it were, in a devouring fire. "Never … for behold! I reign over all the lands of the barbarians! I,

391

The writer pitched her tent in the doorway of the first … character of Osiris, and are in fact on a huge scale pre-

392

392 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … to his grandfather, and added sculptures to the memory of … divided as to the cause of this sound. There is undoubtedly a hollow

393

whoso names figure in the shrines of the Ramessides at … stands his Queen Tuaa, the mother of Rameses II. Else- … Adjoining what may be called the monumental part of … 1]i the adjacent valley of Bab-el-Moluk. … Of the lower world. Thus, in their worship of ancestry, they … quent deification of Seti I, Rameses I remained, so to say, the tutelary

394

394 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … of its tutelary saint and sovereign that part which is played

395

two kings, and served most likely by a twofold college of … behind a broken column, for instance, that leans against … "ins almost parallel with the Nile. This range of cliffs is … Most travelers moor for a day or two at Karnak, and … t -I here is a very curious window at the end of this sanctuary, with

396

A THOUSAND MlLftS tfP TilHJ NILE. … Where the rice crop has been gathered, clusters of tempo- … the foot of the cliffs yonder, where the vegetation ends … Striking off by and by toward the left, we make for a

397

mouths of empty tombs. It is plain to see that we are … fhe weird rocks stand like sentinels to right and left a,s … blazes overhead. Not a breath stirs; neither is there a … ;is one dreams of in a world scathed by fire from heaven.

398

398 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … of the way is broken. Two small ravines branch olf, one … to shoot downward into the bowels of the earth. In another … we know, is the tomb of Seti I. … of Amenti. … walls of their tombs with pictures of the way in which

399

dreaming away its long term of solitary waiting, might … jects for endless illustration. Of the fishing and fowl- … |_t is as if an epicurean aristocracy had been ruled by a … the end of the passage conies a flight of steps, and from … walls. Guardian"spirits of threatening aspect advance,

400

A THOUSAND MILES UP 'THE NILE. … pended, head downward, over seas of flame; are speared, … emerges from the lower hemisphere. The justified dead sow … granite. There can be no doubt that this curious series of funerary … f A remarkable inscription in this tomb, relating the wrath of Ha

401

Coming out for a moment into blinding daylight, we … lour races of mankind, are continually reproduced. Some … thousand eight hundred and nine square feet. The name of the … S Symbolical of darkness. … ne rules up the valley bears the cartouches of Rameses II. The writer

402

402 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … us of the colored picture-books of our childhood. It is … Still Eameses III seems to have had a grand idea of … colored sails; gold and silver vases; rich stores of arms and … fid touch that erewhile soothed the king in his hours of … such good preservation that lie reported of one, at least, if not both,

403

another in No. 9 (Barneses VI); the first, a grand mono- … silver ornaments and the treasures of their tombs all stolen. … I aris and Ohalon, 1870), gives a list of royal tombs inspected by an … Jjls Vaclc in hieroglyphic characters. See " Tablet of Antefaa II."

404

404 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … valley of Bab-el-Molfik. Even that of Seti I had … porary sacrileges. Of thirty-nine persons accused by … Museum. The circumstances of the discovery were suspicious, the … ax of Prince Karnes, and a variety of beautiful poniards and other

405

come.* When, indeed, one thinks of the jewels, furni- … far more wonderful that the parure of one queen should … cartouches of that prince. [Note to second edition.] … "'ak Museum (No. 84) is decorated in like manner with" a repre- … T " King Khampsinitus (Barneses III) was possessed, they said, of

406

40G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … hand, and go forth again into the light of everlasting clay. … of incongruities. A morning among temples is followed by … There were whispers about this time of a tomb that had … prayers, of even offerings and small sacrifices, were distributed over

407

knew where they were hidden. But there was a solemn … Berlin museum. Pieces of mummy-case and wall-sculpture … Meanwhile we tried in vain to get sight of the coveted … J1|t never came to the point. lie offered it first, with a

408

408 • A THOUSAND MILES UP TRW NILE. … fume of their ancient Egyptian, drowned the dear departed … at all events, of fifteen mummies successfully insinuated … Arabs. The Prussian consul is a Copt. The Austrian con- … through the last few winters of her life. The rooms in … * The old French House is now swept away, with the rest of the

409

here. The Arab consul replied that she had " a table and … AVe were shocked at the dreariness of the place—till we … mounds and pylons of Medinefc Habu and the side of the … son, among the tombs of Sheik Abd-el-Koorneh. Here he … memory of Lady Duff Gordon in his heart of hearts, and

410

410 A THOUSAND MILkS UP THE NILE. … much barking of dogs, and were received by our host in a … were in waiting; the one with a brass basin and ewer, the … owji accomplished chef, or to the accomplished chefs of

411

KebobsJ of mutton. Kebobs of lambs' kidneys. … PilaffI of rice. … * Samak: a large flat fish, rather like a brill. … ** Kunafah: a rich pudding made of rice, almonds, cream, cinna-

412

412 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … of fish or lamb with his fingers. Having no plates, we … finger and thumb deep into the breast, brought out a long, … the ante-room during dinner; and when we rose from the … By and by came the governor, the Kadi of Luxor, the

413

always do wind up at Luxor, with a performance of … °f gaudy pattern and a profusion of jewelry. Thejpremi&re … of the room. This dance, we were- told, was of unknown … we had already heard many times and of whose skill we … sisted of plaintive airs and extemporized variations, embroi- … once when, in shower after shower of keen, despairing notes, … , . The kemengeh is a kind of small two-stringed fiddle, the body of

414

414 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Coptic church—a large building at the northern extremity … The church, which has been rebuilt of late years, is con- … pillars came from Karnak, and were the gift of the khe-

415

a lighted taper in his left hand. A priest in a white vest- … bishop looked round. Presently a couple of acolytes, each … AVe now observed with some surprise that every word of … -The second part closely resembled the celebration of … pvated the host; and himself partook of the Eucharist in … 011e kuelt during any part of the service. After this, the

416

416 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the church holding up his scarf, which was heaped full of … four wee, crumpled, brown mites of babies to be christened. … be it observed, coming in for no share of this benediction), … with probably but little change, the earliest ceremonial of

417

books from which the service had been read. They were … Coptic, of course, looks like Greek to the eyes of the … servant to invite us to pay him a visit. We accordingly … tion which followed consisted chiefly of questions on onr

418

418 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … from what he had just seen of the church books, as if it … " The Coptic is a distinct language," ho said. " Eight … rupt Egyptian) written in Greek characters instead of in hieroglyphs. … Egyptian were one, and that the Coptic was a distinct language hav-

419

I then asked him if the Coptic was in all respects a dead … head of the stairs. … Coptic of to-day bears to the Egyptian of the Pharaohs … bet is the (i reck alphabet as imposed upon Egypt by the fathers of

420

430 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … of the Christian era, both Copts and Coptic will be extinct

XXII: Abydus and Cairo

421

AIYDUS AND C A I It 0 . … dahaboeyah of the year. Of the great sights of the river, … languid influences of the glowing Egyptian spring. … of smoke that hangs over the villages one would fancy … ihe whole face of the country, and even of the Nile, is

422

land, then newly squared off like a gigantic chess-board … top of a steep brown ridge, at the foot of which stretches … thermometer (which hangs in the coolest corner of the … closed jalousies, and wet sails hung round the sides of the … Our progress all this time is of the slowest. The men … Not even L------could be induced to take a six-mile

423

ordered out her sketching-tent and paid a last visit to tho … had begun in the neighborhood and all the beasts of … little brutes with which we finally started. Not one of … five minutes. L------'s snarled like a.camel and showed its … seven miles that separate Samata from Abydus. Skirting … Our way lies at first by a bridle-track through the thick … CHt, little encampments of straw huts have sprung up.

424

424 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE. … across the plain we come into the midst of the harvest. … A camel-load is fourteen sheaves; seven to each side of the … hanging gardens, on the edge of the desert, lies the cut

425

knives.* Meanwhile, fluttering from heap to heap, settling … a strange country, we left again at six. I will not presume … be a standing puzzle to archaeologists—after a short visit of … Buried as it, Abydus,J even under its mounds, is a place … t The numher of pigeons kept by the Egyptian fellahin is incredi- … They are bred and let live in such ruinous numbers for the sake of

426

42G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … It was the capital of the Eighth Nome. " Quoique nous ayons tres- … Note to Second Edition.—" Des monuments trouves il y a deux … couiplet du monarque Egyptien. 11 est a la fois constructeur et … la Haute Egvpte." A Mariette Bey. Avant Propos, p. 40. Alexan-

427

capital of Egypt. The seat of power shifted strangely … than these which we now see, one of which was built by

428

428 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … observes that these seven vaulted sanctuaries resemble sarcophagi of … p. G2. Alex. 1872. There is at the upper end of each of these seven

429

There is so far a family resemblance between temples of … covered with paintings of these shrines and their occu- … curiously square, deep, and massive, the surface of the relief-work … and was completed by Kameses the King, after the death of Seti I.

430

430 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE. … up. A ragged old Arab who haunts the temple in the … the guide came to warn us of approaching evening. We … many months a gathering canopy of cloud shut out the … Temple of (jiournah and the Speos of Bayt-el-Welly. … See " La Nouvelle Table d'Abydos," par A. Mariette Bey: " ReVue

431

every moment, we presently gave in, and instead of trying … waves of shadows were creeping over the plain. To our … Beyond the palms that fringed the edge of the desert— … as if the spade of the digger might possibly strike tombs

432

432 A THOUSAND MlLBS UP THE NILE. … out of the dusk; and a caravan of camels, stalking by with … noonday moored at a place called Ayserat, where we paid

433

or so of pigeon-towers, an extensive garden, stabling, exer- … the word of command; dashed from perfect immobility … of the establishment. We found them in a separate build-

434

434 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB WILE. … were perhaps a dozen women and girls in all, two of whom … "We had little opportunity of observing domestic life in … pression of dreariness. A little embroidery, a few musical … tal resources ; and they were even without the means of

435

AB YD US A ND CAIRO. 435 … prison the young wife lived, apparently contented, from … pable even of curiosity. … and thirty-five miles between us and Cairo. From this … went to our sleeping-cabins, the timbers alongside of … generally a case of sunstroke on her hands. One by one, … did not see Beni Hassan". The day we reached that part of

436

43G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … dropped back into the old life of sight-seeing and shopping … ending the day's work with a drive on the Shubra road, or … of the khedive's hareem in their miniature broughams being … * " It is said that these persons, as well as the sheik, make use of

437

It is difficult to say but a few inadequate words of a place … ality of the late khedi ve and the labors of Mariette. With the … sam," or for bric-a-brac, it became illegal to transport an- … the product of the tombs. The famous wooden "sheik," … the tread of the horse; and that some not thus prepared, having ven-

438

43S A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … from a tomb of the third dynasty, and are contemporary … day when they gave the artist his last sitting, lived at a … cisely as it is still worn in Nubia, and her necklace of … E. Soldi, p. 57. Paris, 1876. Also "The Ethnology of Egypt," hy … f There is no evidence to show that the statues of Sepa and Nesa

439

Ghawiizi. The eyes of both statues are inserted. The

440

440 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … all the gods of his Pantheon ; the king his scepter ; the … mirrors. The furniture of the house is here, as well as … worth the journey from Europe. … lips are fuller than in the majority of Europeans; but the mouth is

441

possible to get tired of the pyramids. Here L------and … in from the country—donkeys and carts laden with green … from this point of view bigger than the first. Farther on, … horses stay to drink ; and soon we are skirting a great … on another occasion ; and both reported of the place as so … possible to find a half-way rest for the toe of one's boot, so … coax one on from block to block in all the languages of

442

442 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … save the queen \" and told us that the Prince of Wales … The space on the top of the great pyramid is said to be … ance, of the second pyramid. It seemed to rise up beside … The view from this place is immense. The country is

443

slabs, like the roofing-stones of the temples. "We see how … suggested, is shown in the geometrical papyrus of the British … [It was the opinion of Mariette, and it is the opinion of Professor … A long-disputed question as to the meaning of the sphinx has of … in the Nome Leontopolites. In the above-mentioned stela of Boulak, … sume the answer would be, because llorus, avenger of Osiris, looks

444

444 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

445

like summit of the great pyramid of Dahshur. Even the

Appendix

447

A. M'CALLUM, ESQ., TO THE EDITOR OF " THE TIMES."* … The doorway of the painted chamber, the staircase and the arch, … The staircase was not opened until the 18th, and the bones of a … "The deities of ancient Egypt consist of celestial, terrestrial and

448

of the greater gods or else attendants upon them. Most of the gods … his wife Merienptah, and their son Nefer Atum, formed a triad, to … names of the gods are Egyptian; thus, Ptah meant ' the opener;' … to have reigned over Egypt before the time of mortals. The eight … 4, Seb; 5, Nut; 6, Osiris; 7, Isis and Horus; 8, Athor. Those of … gods of the second order were twelve in number, but the name of … Phtah or Ptah—In form a mummy, holding the emblem called by … Kneph, Knum or Knouphis—Ham-headed. Called the maker of … an asp. The divine disposer and organizer of the world. Adored

449

Ha; liis right hand uplifted, holding the flail. The god of produc- … represented sometimes as a youth with the side-lock, standing on a … 'under the first two forms as a man, hawk headed, wearing the … Deity of Amenti, or the Egyptian Hades. Worshiped at Denderah.

450

THE RELIGIOUS BELIEF OF TIIE EGYPTIANS. … ered to be self-produced. The sun was the older object of worship, … itself to many interpretations of a contradictory nature, none of

451

one who exists by essence; the one sole life of all substance; the one … that no earthly image can give the feeblest notion of his immensity. … of the Egyptian pantheon. The Temple of Denderah, now explored … Heaven which was represented by this personage. The rays of the

452

" In tlie course of ages, the sense of the religion became obscured. … submission to his feet. We see here that the Egyptians of Ptolemaic … "The chronology of Egypt has been a disputed point for cent- … ments have given rise to many schemes and rectifications of the

453

the dated sepulchral tablets of the bull Apis at the serapeum, the … As some indication of the wide divergence of opinion upon this … acceptance or rejection of any of these calculations, inclined on the … To this chronology may be opposed the brief table of dates com-

454

Mena and the commencement of the ancient empire … Expulsion of Shepherds and commencement of the … Sheshonk (Shishak), the conqueror of Jerusalem . … CONTEMPORARY CHRONOLOGY OF EGYPT, MESOPOTAMIA,

Verlagsinformation

455

OF THE … unabridged, hence meeting equally the needs of the student and

456

The Essays or Counsels Civil and Moral of Francis Bacon. … whole lonjr life-time of one of the mightiest minds of modern times.—Frank … Like Huxley and Tyndall, Mr. Proctor sees the poetry of his subject and … scene himself, listening to the counsels of the generals, hearing the tread of … The Essays of Elia have been characterized as the " finest things for humor, … He exercised a great power over men; he brought them wide comfort, and

457

note by Robert Thorne, M.A. Portrait. 12mo, cloth, gilt top, $1.00. … there is hardly a trace of satire or ill-nature in the whole book, which is a true … Great purity, sustained reflection, wealth of illustration and allusion, vivid … For sale by all Booksellers, or will be sent post-paid on receipt of price, by the pub-

458

Hurt's fgywij of tftt ggytgg j*gj jwb. … with the irresistible fascination of an eternal problem and the charm of an … The book is refined, poetical and picturesque, full of quaint humor, exquis- … set forth, unite to make a delightful, and, what is more, a wholesome, invigo- … ley, F.S.A., F.L.S. Portrait. 12mo, cloth, gilt top, $1.00. … word-painting are exquisite. The book holds throughout, with a firm grasp, … one of the greatest minds of this century. . . . Romola, which is one of … Herbert Spencer is the foremost name in the philosophic literature of the … depths; and his few errors iiow from an over-anxiety to exert his splendid … This book is the grandest achievement of modern scientific thought and … For sale bij all Booksellers, or will be sent post-paid on receipt of price, by the pub-

459

John Halifax, Gentleman. A Novel. By Miss Mulock. Por- … lated from the German by F. E. Burnett. Portrait. 12mo, cloth, … Eomp of his dream-descriptions, his abounding though subtle humor, commend … On the Heights. By Berthold Auerbach. Translated from … Auerbach has been called the Charles Dickenc of Germany. He is not only

460

jjmf0 jitowij of tixt Wmm IM Hwfo … 11 Westward Ho! " is one of the most vigorous, powerful, and fascinating of … The Pilgrim's Progress. By John Bunyan, with a life of Bun- … tained to so wide a popularity in all languages as" The Pilgrim's Progress." … Self-Help, with Illustrations of Character, Conduct, and Per- … Eyre." This was doubtless due in part to the freshness and vigor of mind it … For sale by all Booksellers, oi' will be sent post-paid on receipt of price, by the pub-

Maßstab/Farbkeil

massstab

Westward Ho! or, The Voyages and Adventures of Sir … Tlie nervous and effective style, the skillful blending of … Bunyan, with a life of Bun- … ses, and the trials of a Christian … hright honesty of purpose in life, … ; freshness and vigor of mind it

OCR-Volltext

Hinweise zum OCR-Text

98 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE.

spaces of shade sleep under the spreading sycamores by the
road side; a hawk cries overhead; and Siiit, bathed in the
splendor of the morning, sun, looks as fairy-like as ever.

Lepsius is reported to have said that the view from this
hillside was the finest in Egypt. But Egypt is a long
country and questions of precedence are delicate matters to
deal with. It is, however, a very beautiful view; though
most travelers who know the scenery about Thebes and the
approach to Assuan would hesitate, I should fancy, to give
the preference to a landscape from which the nearer
mountains are excluded by the position of the spectator.

The tombs here, as in many other parts of Egyjit, are
said to have been largely appropriated by early Christian
anchorites during the reigns of the later Roman emperors;
and to these recluses may perhaps be ascribed the legend
that makes Lycopolis the abode of Joseph and Mary during
the years of their sojourn in Egypt. It is, of course, but a
legend and wholly improbable. If the holy family ever
journeyed into Egypt at all, which certain Biblical critics
now hold to be doubtful, they probably rested from their
wanderings at some town not very far from the eastern
border—as Tanis, or Pithom, or Bubastis. Siiit would, at
all events, lie at least two hundred and fifty miles to the
southward of any point to which they might reasonably
be supposed to have penetrated.

Still, one would like to believe a story that laid the
scene of our Lord's childhood in the midst of this beautiful
and glowing Egyptian pastoral. With what a profound
and touching interest it would invest the place ! "With
what different eyes we should look down upon a landscape
which must have been dear and familiar to Him in all its
details and which, from the nature of the ground, must
have remained almost unchanged from His day to ours!
The mountain with its tombs, the green corn-flats, the
Nile and the desert, looked then as they look now. It is
only the Moslem minarets that are new. It is only the
pylons and sanctuaries of the ancient worship that have
passed away.

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Letzte Aktualisierung 27.07.2023 © Universitätsbibliothek Heidelberg Impressum