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A THOUSAND MILES HP THE NILE.

in their right places; and tins, after all, is a mental process
which every traveler must perform for himself.

Thebes, I need scarcely say, was built, like London, on
both sides of the river. Its original extent must have been
very great; but its public buildings, its quays, its thousands
of private dwellings, are gone and have left few traces.
The secular city, which was built of crude brick, is repre-
sented by a few insignificant mounds; while of the sacred
edifice, five large groups of limestone ruins—three on the
western bank and two on the eastern, together with the re-
mains of several small temples and a vast multitude of
tombs—are all that remain in permanent evidence of its
ancient splendor. Luxor is a modern Arab village, occupy-
ing the site of one of the oldest of these five ruins. It
stands on the eastern bank, close against the river, about
two miles south of Karnak and nearly opposite the famous
sitting colossi of the western plain. On the opposite
bank lie Gournah, the Ramessenm, and Meclinet Habu.
A glance at the map will do more than pages of explana-
tion to show the relative position of these ruins. The
Temple of Gournah, it will be seen, is almost vis-a-vis of
Karnak. The Ramesseum faces about half-way between
Karnak and Luxor. Medinet Habu is placed farther to
the south than any building on the eastern side of the
river. Behind these three western groups, reaching far
and wTide along the edge of the Libyan range, lies the great
Theban Necropolis; while farther back still, in the radiat-
ing valleys on the other side of the mountains, are found
the tombs of the kings. The distance between Karnak
and Luxor is a little less than two miles; while from Medi-
net Habu to the Temple of Gournah may be roughly
guessed at something under four. We have here, there-
fore, some indication of the extent, though, not of the
limits, of the ancient city.

Luxor is a large village inhabited by a mixed population
of Copts and Arabs and doing a smart trade in antiquities.
The temple has here formed the nucleus of the village, the
older part of which has grown up in and about the ruins.
The grand entrance faces north, looking down toward
Karnak. The twin towers of the great propylon, dilapi-
dated as they are, stripped! of their cornices, incumbered
with debris, are magnificent still. In front of them, one
on each side of the central gateway, sit two helmeted
 
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