Edwards, Amelia B.: A thousand miles up the Nile (New York, [1888])

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Edwards, Amelia B.
A thousand miles up the Nile — New York, [1888]

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https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.4393#0143

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Titelblatt

II_Titelblatt

A THOUSAND MILES … Like some grave, mighty thought, threading a dream." … A. L. BURT, PUBLISHER.

Preface to the first edition

III

Ampere has put Egypt in an epigram. " A donkey ride … —was the one vessel best constructed for the navigation of

IV

is expensive, leisurely, delightful; the other is cheap, swift, … ruary; very warm in March and April. The climate of

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subject grows with the book, and with the knowledge one … if not actually to original sources (which would be the … consider time spent; and I have yet to thank the friends … surely not least among the glories of learning that those … people are much less changed in Egypt than we of the

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whom we know so well in tlie wall paintings of the tombs.

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essential features the painted galleys represented in the … they shut us off from the simplicity of that early world. … been resident in Cairo, and who was well acquainted with the

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ever, and while writing this book, I have been led on step … for the little that it is worth. … than they were some thirty or forty years ago; but the … the learned and to the general reader.

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discovered past of Egypt. In its narrower sense, the

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an engraving from Lis picture. It tells its own tale; or … The secret of the sphinx.

Preface to the second edition

XI

TO THE SECOND EDITION.

Contents

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CAIRO AND THE GREAT PYRAMID. … CAIRO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE. … Departure for the Nile Voyage—Farewell to Cairo—Turra— … The Palms of Memphis—Three Groups of Pyramids—The M. … The Rule of the Nile—The Shadfif—Beni Suef—Thieves hy

XIV

Sheik Cotton "—The Convent of the Pulley—A Copt—The … Christmas Day—The Party Completed—Christmas Dinner on … of Luxor—Poem of Pentaur—The Solitary Obelisk—In- … A Storm on the Nile—Ertnent—A Gentlemanly Bey—Esneh— … The Black Governor—An Enormous Blunder—Tannhiiuser

XV

THE CATARACT AND THE DESERT. … Pharaoh's Bed—The Temples—Champollion's Discovery—The … Nubian Scenery—A Sand-slope—Missing Yusef—Trading by … Fine Art of the Thothmes—Derr—A Native Funeral- … Youth of Rameses the Great—Treaty with the Kheta—His … The Colossi—Portraits of Rameses the Great—The Great Sand-

XVI

THE SECOND CATABACT. … Society at Abou Simbel—The Painter Discovers a Rock-cut … Again—Wady Sabooah—-Haughty Beauty—A Nameless … Shooting the Cataract—Ivora Ombo—Quarries of Silsilis—Edfu … Tombs of Thebes—The Ramesseum—The Granite Colossus

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CONTENTS. xv a … Last Weeks on tlie Nile—Spring in Egypt—Ninety-nine in tlie … I- A. McCallum, Esq., to the Editor of The Times.......... 447

List of Illustrations

XVIII

The Secret of tlie Sphinx. After a Painting by Elihu Ved- … The Suadtif............................................... 69 … Cartouches of Rameses the Great........................... 237 … Temple of Amada (Wall Inscription)........................ 313

I: Cairo and the Great Pyramid

1

A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … m Cairo for the winter. The other half, it may be taken … the new-comer's first impulse is to inquire from what … business; distinguishes at first sight between a Cook's … for a holiday ; special correspondents alert for gossip ;

2

2 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … might turn aside into the Burlington Arcade or the … tember for a few weeks' sketching in central France, we

3

CAIRO AND THE GREAT PYRAMID. 3 … But what had memory to do with rains on land, or … and amber dates. It was a still, warm morning. Grave … one should begin in Cairo with a day in the native bazaars; … turbaned group is a ready-made picture. The old Turk

4

4 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … white, with chocolate stripes a foot wide, and head-shawl … keys ; native women of the poorer class, in black veils that … from under fantastic head-dresses; blue-black Abyssinians … of complexion from fair to dark, from tawny to copper-

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CAIRO AND THE GREAT PYRAMID. 5 … tassels, and fringes. Such a donkey as this is worth from … dered waistcoat and fluttering white tunic, Hies a native

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6 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … all sizes and prices. lie sells nothing else, and has not only a … Here, too, the tobacco merchant sits behind a huge cake … Another turn or two, and you are in the slipper bazaar,

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CAIRO AND THE GREAT PYRAMID. 1 … Damascus saddle-bags, and Turkish prayer-carpets. The … ing-shelf beside the doorway of a dilapidated khan, the

8

8 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … cution, but rich and ancient designs. As for the merchants … But the bazaars, however picturesque, are far from being

9

constantly to turn our steps and our thoughts in the direc- … The same may be said of their captains, with the same dif- … or captain, displays the certificates given him by former … not do; so that the boats which lay yesterday alongside … the cataract, and boats that can't; boats that are only twice … heard before, afford as yet no kind of help to the

10

10 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … led a miserable life. Meanwhile, however, we met some … One of our first excursions was, of course, to the pyramids,

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CAIRO AND THE GREAT PYRAMID. 11 … definite idea. The. most careful study of plans and … a big cairn.

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12 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Having but one hour and forty minutes to spend on the

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the length of one side, climbed to the top, and learned the … inches higher than the cross on the" top of St. Paul's and … from Mean. … For the height, Mr. Petrie, after duly weighing all data, such as

14

14 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … well content, nevertheless, with the way in which our … They are naturally vivacious and very talkative ; yet the

II: Cairo and the Mecca Pilgrimage

15

CAIRO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE. … tectural style out of the heterogeneous elements of Roman

16

le A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the old, no matter how venerable, are allowed to molder

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quadrangle, open to the sky and inclosed within lofty walls,

18

IS A THOUSAND MILES UP THIS NILE. … Presently a tiny brown and golden bird perched with

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CAIRO AND THE MEGGA PILGRIMAGE. 19 … any other landmark. It is a spacious, costly, gaudy, com- … numerable cut-glass chandeliers, so that it looks like a … * Now, seventy-seven years ago; the first edition of this book

20

20 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE, … As we came away, they showed us the place in which the … member the order of our sight-seeing in Cairo, for the … These Arabs, by the way, are excellent whips, and the

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CAIRO AND THE MECCA PJLGliLVAOE. 21 … children astride upon the right shoulder, swarthy … their aid to celebrate the most solemn festivals of his

22

22 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … green pennants. After these had gone by there was a long … before they arrived in sight, came the howling dervishes—

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CAIRO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE. 23 … This very reverend personage was closely followed by the

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24 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … The men, both horse and foot, seemed fair average speci- … It had seemed, while the procession was passing, that

25

CAIRO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE. 25 … A long time went by thus. At last, when the number

26

2G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … remained as if suspended in mid-air. Still the frenzy

27

CAIRO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE. 27 … At that moment the leader came over, knelt down beside … those ready-made subjects that the sketcher passes by with … originally too short, have been stilted on dispropor-

28

28 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … seen it for this reason, if for no other. 13nt it is a barren, … sheiks on magnificent Cairo asses, officers in frogged and

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CAIRO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE. 29 … these, however, I observed none of the rarer varieties. As … neath a mantle of crimson stars, some of which cannot

30

3() A TltOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … But the difficulties were all over now and everything … travelers. One of these three was already known to the

31

OAIliO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE. 31

III: Cairo to Bedreshayn

32

32 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … A rapid raid into some of the nearest shops for things … visitors to luncheon on board at midday; and we are to

33

And now we are on board and have shaken hands with … us "bon voyage" and good-by. Then the M. B.'s, who,

34

34 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

35

limestone comes out dazzling white and the long slopes of

36

30 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE.

37

door led into a passage out of which opened four sleeping- … Another door and passage opening from the upper end

38

38 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … cheerfully from sunrise to sunset, sometimes towing the

39

make it themselves at certain places along the river where … inferiors, is too often of light weight and bad quality. The

40

40 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE. … extremity rather than break the law of their prophet. … Also it is systematically spoiled in the growing. Instead … on shore without a tobacco-pouch and a tiny book of

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A Nile sailor's service expires with the season, so that he … the summer months, while it lies up at Bonlak. Ee'is … came a prolonged wail that swelled, and sank, and swelled

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42 A THOUSAND MILES UP TIIE NILE.

IV: Sakkarah and Memphis

43

moored for the night, we were roused early next morning … up to the village for twenty-five, intending, perhaps with

44

44 A. THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE. … like ragged banner poles, stand up at intervals among the … in such a scene and but little beauty. On the contrary,

45

No two are of precisely the same size, or built at precisely … boys, porters and miscellaneous hangers-on, number nearer

46

46 A THOUSAND MILES UP THIS NILE. … all in one. And, besidos all this, he is gifted with a comic … brought up on pyramids from his earliest childhood.

47

the whole plateau is thickly'strewn with scraps of broken … dried-up sponge. Presently some one picks up a little … now for the first time we realize that every inch of this … than would have befitted a gang of professional body-

48

48 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … magnitude. If Egyptologists are right in ascribing the … hundred according to the computation of Bunsen. One's … Europe, are unknown, it is not to be supposed that a few

49

Wilkinson describes the interior ;is " a hollow dome

50

50 A THOUSAND MILES UP TIIE NILE. … the excavation neared the end of the avenue, the causeway, … f For an excellent and exact account of tbe Serapeum and the

51

the solid rock on which the temples were built. These

52

52 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Having gone on thus for a distance of nearly two hun-

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From this point the corridor branches off for another … than from thirteen to fourteen feet in length; and all are … the live hundred votive tablets before mentioned, which, … It is a curious fact that one out of the three inscribed

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54 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … M. About, who professes to have had the story direct from … two hundred yards more between ourselves and the light

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yawns an open pit some twenty-five feet in depth, with a … :l kind husband, too, and a good father, and loved to … Walk out together and look on while the farm-servants are

56

56 A THOUSAND MILES DP THE NILE. … about eight times as large as bis servants, sits and stands a

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coloring, however, is purely decorative; and, being laid on … the course of the journey, removes

58

58 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … How pleasant it was, after being suffocated in the Sera-

59

tled at a glance by Professor Owen.*

60

CO A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Thinking over these things by the way, we agree that … Ti, with town-houses at Memphis and villas by the Nile. … And now we are once more in the midst of the palm-

61

woods, threading our way among the same mounds that … against the foot of one or two of the mounds; but one … in among the trees; and in front of one of these we find … lar semicircle on the sward, they seem to sit in forlorn

62

G2 A THOUSAND MUMS UP THIS NILE. … ■—a few huge rubbish-heaps, a dozen or so of broken

63

to be inhabited up to the time of the Arab invasion. It

64

04 A. THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

82 V: Bedreshayn to Minieh

65

It is the rule of the Nile to hurry up the river as fast as … way only is it piossible to trace the progression and retro-

66

G6 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … contrary to custom need a certain amount of insistance … them; but he sets it down to a habit of harmless curiosity— … get rid of obstacles—to put the right thing in the right … without the added puzzlement of being read backward.

67

day in the same place. This, too, with the favorable wind … The M. B.'s being of the same mind, however, we had … Egypt, but without having any definite ideaof the process.

68

G8 A T110 USAND MILES UP THE NILE. … That morning, still tracking, we pass the pyramids of … \ The shfuliif bias been so well described by the Eev. F. B. Zincke

69

stooping and rising, stooping and rising, with the regu- … require another shadoof to be worked in the trough into which the

70

70 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE.

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the mosque become gradually crowded with lookers on. … stately steps, as if each ponderous vessel were a crown. … and said with a magnificent melodramatic air: "If they

72

72 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … finger and finished with a hook at one end and a twisted … came down the river about noon, showing like a yellow fog … This lasted just one hour, and was followed by a burst of

73

once more got under way. It was delightful to see the big … high along the edge of the precipitous bank, its odd-look-

74

74 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … medans; lie has two wives; he never does a stroke of work; … We are by this time drawing toward a range of yellow

75

past and now rolls on in undulating drifts to the water's … in a borrowed blanket, is allowed to come on board. lie … And this is a Copt; a descendant of the true Egyptian

76

76 A THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE. … possible to look at him without a feeling of profound in- … we give him a shilling or two for the sake of all that he … And now the convent with its clustered domes is passed

77

eight, minutes, a vast arch of deep-bine shade, about … but it lacks the variety and gorgeousness of our northern … unknown, and in Egypt are of the rarest occurrence. … from the mountains to the sky, we had repeatedly observed

78

78 A THOUSAND MILKS UP TilE NILE.

79

legged like shabby old idols in shabby old shrines—the … one fell swoop— the native cook's shop exhaling savory … wheat, and dura. The women go to and fro with bouquets … one pays in Middle and Upper Egypt for a lamb. A good … vision, bargaining fluently in Arabic, and escorted by a

80

80 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … lar, with long forked stems, each of which terminates in a … with all the fervor of divination, and delivered a string of … It was just the old familiar story, retold in Arabic, with- … of the country, or that, being brought unexpectedly into … have been present in the streets and market-place from ten

81

was blind of an eye. Not being a particularly well-favored … as forty per cent of the whole infant population should

82

82 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … fore, in all this part of the river, not only to hire guards … hours earlier than their train was supposed to be due, the … f Miss Whately, whose evidence on tins subject is peculiarly valu-

VI: Minieh to Siut

83

It is Christmas day. The M. B.'s are coming to … and laughing, and hammering ! Nor is the bustle con-

84

84 A TITO USAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Nothing could be prettier or gayer than the spectacle

85

and our fantasia ended with a blaze of light, like a pan- … times panting, we go on day by day, making what speed … Meanwhile, the skies are always cloudless, the days … nasties. The sparrows and water-wagtails perch familiarly

86

86 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

87

athletes; the file of laden camels; the desert, all sand-hills … the water's edge; or, sailing close under ranges of huge … mined by water-washed caverns in which lurk a few linger- … not unlike the Hebrew, llecords they are, too, of pre-

88

88 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … approached from above; others again come close upon the … than half-way, along the whole length of the range I … again, but without success; [or the intense midday sun was

89

then pouring full upon the rocks, to the absolute oblitera-

90

90 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … It was, I think, toward the afternoon of this second … roll it up that steep incline to a point beyond the level of

91

like devotion to the matter in hand, one sees how subtle a … if only because other people do so, or to get rid of a trouble-

92

92 -A- THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … drawn mirage than a piece of the world Ave live in. … whether it was ever more than three miles distant as the

93

beeyah moored than Kei's Hassan and the steersman started … from Siut. There is a whole street of such pottery here in

94

94 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … A lofty embanked road planted with fine sycamore figs … and withering in the sun.

95

the huge portal. A circular hole in the threshold marks … J; Some famous tombs of very early date, enriched with the same

96

9(i A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … elements in one common mold, reverts persistently to the

97

marriages, that after the third generation the foreign blood … animals; and Siut was called Lycopolis by the Greeks*

98

98 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … all events, lie at least two hundred and fifty miles to the … Still, one would like to believe a story that laid the

VII: Siut to Denderah

99

We started from Siut with a couple of tons of new … had almost always one man on the sick list, and were … and her roll of lint and bandages, soon had a small but … helpless and despondent when hurt, and ignorant of the

100

100 4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … was something very pathetic in the simple faith with which … a few simple cures, rose high among the crew. They called … Above Siut, the picturesqueness of the river is confined … tombs, but which look like loop-holes from a distance. … chers, flit past and are left behind. To-day we enter the

101

tance a couple of hours ago is reached and passed. The

102

102 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … ceive it—swarms of brown fellaheen are stacking it on

103

who, naked and unwashed, has sat on that same spot … ing on charity not only for his food but for his feeding! … they cry. "Fain would we kiss thy hand; but the wind … sign of hearing, and in a few minutes the mound on which … and piles of broken pottery divided the ruins and made

104

104 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … spiritualized. The amber sheen of the sand-island in the

105

middle of the river, the sober green of the palm-grove, the … aurora of the east. But the sun had nothing to do with

106

106 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the land is not sufficiently irrigated the crops fail and the … from his native village. What to him are the needs of a

107

into the mouth of his ideal fellah. "It is not the em- … order, according to the map; but then the temples lie … wo had to steer our course as best we could. Presently the … mous— showing from this distance as a massive, low-

108

108 A THOUSAND Ml LBS UP TUB NIL B. … buried in rank grass—upon a series of stagnant niter-tanks

109

the Nurse of Horus, the Egyptian Aphrodite, to whom … We were by this time near enough to see that the square

110

HO A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … face-sculpture tend in any way to diminish the general … * The names of Augustus, Caligula, Tiberius, Domitian, Claudius,

111

latest ovals the name and style of Nero, the present build- … the edict of The- … during the pros- … in the precints … A dromos, now … fect as on the day when ils splendor was given over to the

112

112 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … reproduced in the annexed engraving. Cleopatra is here … every eight or ten weeks. The Nubian girls fasten each … and portraiture begins in a work of this epoch. AVe can-

113

It is not without something like a shock that one first … silence and mystery. A heavy, death-like smell, as of … explore those depths with a party of fellow-travelers: but

114

114 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … decorations, we wander round and round; going on from … weeks past—we have studied the plan of the temple … which hedged in with inviolable secrecy the solemn rites of

115

were brought out, paraded along the corridors of the … berless legends of the gods ; chronologies of kings with

116

116 A THOUSAND MILES UP TILE NILE. … abundant harvests, victory, and the love of his people. … ever, sees in them something more than the language of

117

detects the language of the schools, and discovers in the

118

118 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … are full of minute and interesting detail. In one of the

119

Finally, we take the staircase on the northern side of the … We have hitherto been tracing in their order all the

120

120 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … We ought to have gone down by way of the opposite … shot replies from near by; a wandering light appears in … Musa, "black but comely"—they were all there. What a

VIII: Thebes and Karnak

121

Coming on deck the third morning after leaving Den- … ings, which he only wore on very great occasions. … puted the charge of bashfulness, said: "Luxor—kharuf*— … allusion to the promised sheep, we could hardly have be- … tries to show us Medinet llabu and the Memnonium. The

122

122 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … The top of another pylon; the slender peak of an obelisk;

123

A THOUSAND MILES HP THE NILE. … Thebes, I need scarcely say, was built, like London, on … The secular city, which was built of crude brick, is repre- … on each side of the central gateway, sit two helmeted

124

colossi, battered and featureless and buried to the chin, … sculptures of gods and men, horses and chariots, the pa- … the Great. His actual names and titles as they stand upon … The battle scenes here represented relate to that memor- … the Past," vol ii.

125

children screaming for backshish; the dealers exhibiting … "This Prince of Wales donkey I" shouts a third, haul- … in our eyes just now, comjiared with the letters we hope to … noon ; to cross to Medinct Ilabu and the Bamesseum* to- … with the Memnonium of Strabo and the tomb of Osymandias as

126

126 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … in the battle.* … house of Eameses in the city of Amnion."

127

So stately was the approach made by Barneses the Great … rection before the gates of the temple, were magnificent

128

128 A. THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

129

we find the pure lines, the severe and slender forms, the … * The ruins of the great Temple of Luxor have undergone a com-

130

130 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … rid of, about eight or ten only refusing to leave at any price. The

131

complimentary message on the outer wrapper, such as … Luxor the 1st January 1874.

132

132 -4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the thresholds of two or three dismal dens of cafes in the … quite beautiful in her blackness, compared with the paint-

133

as extensive, apparently, as the ruins of a large town. … reached from Luxor to Karnak. Taking into account the

134

134 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … remembering ; and the great hall of Karnak is photo-

135

there—not all at once, as in a picture; but bit by bit, as … sacred beasts, and emblems of wisdom and truth. The … and thirty-four columns, of which the central twelve stand sixty-two

136

136 A THOUSAND.MILKS UP THE NILE. … weird when the great roof was in its place and perpetual … of these huge window-frames yet contain the solid stone … be repeated, that the great hall at Karnak is the noblest

137

doorway, these columns, are the wonder of the world. … It may be that the traveler who finds himself for the … who founded the Temple of Luxor and set up the famous … And now, would it not be strange if we knew the name

138

138 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … tions, would seem as if they could only belong to the Hy-

139

forgotten Bramante, but who was also the Ictinus of the … sacerdotal processions, and elaborate chronicles of the … small outlying temples we saw in the course of that rapid

IX: Thebes to Assuan

140

140 A THOUSAND MILES UP TEE NILE. … Hurrying close upon the serenest of Egyptian sunsets … A light but fitful breeze helped us on next day as far as

141

of ceremony from the bey—a tall, slender, sharp-featured,

142

142 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

143

crews bake for the last time before their return to Egypt. … all the common sights and sounds of a native market. Here … escort, added some thundering blows with his staff and a

144

144 A TIIOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … upon a dozen voices were raised to assure me that the Bir-

145

The general effect and the main features of the plan are

146

146 A TIIO USAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Two singular little erections, built in between the … and, if I remember rightly, a small square window in the … tion can point out to what extent it underlies the founda-

147

bronzes and statues may here await the pick of the ex-

148

148 4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … tasted. In vain I say "Bismillah" (in the name of God); … " By my prophet!" said he, "am I a pig or a dog, that

149

able, that one might wear without the fear of breaking … To this he replied by declaring that he had made the … hands. I made them but the other day. By Allah! they … crack before a month is over. The sitt would do better … air of the most engaging candor, "these scarabs were

150

150 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … cnes; and what man or nation need hope for a much better

151

spends but half a year on the Nile may, if he takes an in- … feh! Silence, Ali!") Talhamy would say from time to time. … But you could as easily keep a monkey from chattering … riyill" (lialf-a-dollar), "ethneen shilling" (two shillings), … It was about midday when we passed El Kab, the ancient

152

152 A- THOUSAND MILES UP TEE NILE.

153

flesh—especially flesh on the Nile—is heir to, wo quickly … are as eager to win as if a great prize depended on it.

154

154' A THOUSAND MILES TIP THE NILE. … and Edfii; and that the good wind is still blowing.

155

dwindled to seven. It is plain to see, however, that as the … miles from our destination. … five, but four. The Fostat, thanks to her bigger sail, has

156

15G A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NIL EL … the iron boat, shaving the sand-bank to get a wider berth,

X: Assuan and Elephantine

157

The green Island of Elephantine, which is about a mile … high and dry, and half heeled over, in the sun. Others,

158

158 A. THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … goods at arm's length, battle and implore to come on board, … solid from the tusk, porcupine quills, baskets of stained … ubiquitous goblin, and throws every competitor into the

159

For to the Nubian, who grows his own plants and bruises … his food are redolent of it. It pervades the very air in … scented the Phila3 for the rest of the voyage and retains its … We received our guests with due ceremony in the saloon.

160

1G0 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Aerated lemonade and cigars were then brought. The … animated expression of countenance, while the civilities on … the entertainment flagged.

161

The governor, looking very grave, was the first to speak. … Now, we had been told in Cairo, on excellent authority, … The governor, the kadi and the mudir shook their heads, … we desired neither the gratification of an idle curiosity, … The governor saw, and witli the best grace in the world … There was even a shade of disappointment in the tone of

162

162 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Now it chanced that he had pitched upon a volume of … Leaving the cabin, he paused to look at our roses, which … We suggested that the climate was probably too hot for

163

The question gave us a kind of shock. We could hardly … Erment. And he had never seen a rose in bloom. … Friday bending under a load of faggots. They are all … and had just been destroyed to build a palace and barracks

164

164 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … oil and cotton plants, lentils, and durra, make green the

165

these illegible scrawls, of the importance they were shortly … For the Egyptians, it seems, used potsherds instead of … collected on the frontier during the period of Roman rule … These barren memoranda are not the only literary curiosities found … Note to Second Edition.—Other fragments of "Iliad" have

166

160 4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

167

By far the most amusing sight in Assuan was the traders' … Nubians the color of a Barbedienne bronze ; and natives … doubt of piled-up bales and packing-cases, like a spider in … matting, strewed the sandy bank. Of gum-arabic alone there … A hole scooped in the sand, a couple of stones to support

168

108 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … carved in ebony; Dantes unembittered by the world,

169

of the desert, and (bearing in mind the probable inferiority … Now the lying down and getting up of a camel are … damaged in his spine, the luckless novice receives four dis- … joints and more trying than his temper. He has four : a

170

170 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … likewise. It was a solemn moment when, having chosen … lowing at the heels of our camels and Salame performing … to back on cairns of loose stones, or piled in broken and

171

slopes and to go wandering off, like lost Israelites, into the … the under-cutting has never been done and that it is

172

172 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … as at Turra and Silsilis; but the process by which the stone … Flinders Petrie, chap, ii, pp. 22 et seg., published by the Egypt Ex-

173

was the largest detached statue in the world, must each … their reception; and, being saturated with water, split the … Passing by the way a tiny oasis where there were camels … nified our intention of making for the top of the nearest … forward, and, still dissatisfied, insisted on attacking a

174

174 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … The last hill was very steep and stony; but the view … Presently, a group of three or four black figures,

175

and the worthy man, having spent the day in Assuan … that they found the pace difficult. Such is the moral in-

XI: The cataract and the desert

176

176 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the ribbed hollow of a tiny sand-drift, there circling above … dangerous; and to that labyrinth the shellalee, or cataract … for some five months of the year, his principal industry.

177

THE CATARACT AND THE DESERT. 177 … the wildness of the waters, by the quaint forms of the … again are mere cairns of loose blocks, with here and there a … of yesterday's cutting, start out here and there from those … who really desire to got the utmost pleasure, instruction, and interest

178

178 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Meanwhile the sheik of the cataract — a flat-faced,

179

THE CATARACT AND THE DESERT. 179 … the performance against a still stronger current a little … moored for the night in the pool at the top of the first … not a man appeared upon the scene. At about midday … Our painter therefore undertook to remonstrate with the

180

180 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … there was a governor at Assuan to whom we should appeal … Now the painter, being of a practical turn, had compiled … as to the energy of his style or the vigor of his language. … never see Abou Simbel now—never write our names on … morning at sunrise appeared the sheik of the cata-

181

THE (JAT All ACT AND THE DESERT. 181 … The dragoman vowed that he had never seen Nubians … come to be included in the brief catalogue of their daily

182

182 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … clustered together in hollows, there perched separately on … the sands—of water-washed bowlders of crimson, and … children like live bronzes—of these, and a hundred other … the places are something more than beautiful backgrounds, … nestled in the hollow of a little bay; half-islanded in the

183

THE CARARAGT AND THE DESERT. 183 … matting, crowd the sandy shore. It is Assuan over again, … from end to end of that huge furrow and not see that it was

184

184 A 'THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … meters (twenty-six feet eight inches) higher than the highest level to

185

TEE OARARACT AND THE DESERT. 185 … the facts speak for themselves. The great channel is … was slung with two loads, one at either side of the hump.

186

186 A THOUSAND MILES UP TEE NILE.

187

THE CARARACT AND THE DESERT. 18?

XII: Philiae

188

188 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE MLR … with only an occasional glimpse of its towers in the dis-

189

every stone of it, and the platform on which it stands, and

190

100 A THOUSAND MILES, UP THE NIL a. … and capricious grouping, here take the place of massive- … which at first sight looked no less perfect than the towers, … We enter the inner court — an irregular quadrangle

191

sculptures of Egypt. It may represent one of the two … inscription de la stele est en langue grecque et comprend 04 lignes. … ignorce an moment ou la stele a ete decouverte. Qui ne voit l'utilite

192

102 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … sion; but, taken in connection with a precisely similar … Jusqu'a lui, on avait cru que cbacune des lettres qui composent … Ptolemee, on recontre a l'endroit correspondant du texte Egyptien un … seconde inscription grecque gravee sur une obelisque de Philaj, que … nouveaux. Enfin, applique a d'autres cartouches, l'alphabet encore

193

This second inscription is cut upon the face of a block … poser les fondements de cette belle science qui a pour objet ('inter- … ducting his excavations at San (Tanis) in 180o. It dates from the

194

19-t A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … would like to linger over; as, for instance, the capitals of … goes for nothing, however, in presence of the reality ; and

195

sleep for a hundred years. The bas-reliefs on the walls, … A more instructive and delightful task than the copying of these

196

196 ■&■ THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … but two large convents on the eastern bank a little higher

197

rude Byzantine carvings, the Greek cross is again con- … To obtain that permission and perform the pilgrimage to … concerning the river above that point; and he relates that

198

198 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … stone, so to say—having been scratched on the yet un-

199

were still in occupation of the island and still celebrating … At length, however, there must have come a day when

200

200 A. THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … word or two give a more human interest to the autograph. … in the days of Abbot Theodore and his flock. The little ba-

201

monks installed themselves in that row of cells on the east … and only a ruined convent perched here and there upon … verted into 13) the Pilak of the hieroglyphic inscriptions

202

202 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … dition to the usual tribute of dates, cotton, slaves and … they used to keep up "a brisk and well-directed fire." … at Cairo in 1817, and Chainpollion's discovery was not given to the

203

One poor old man—if indeed he still lives—is now the one … reliefs. Mysterious passages, pitch-dar.k, thread the thick- … | See previous note, p. 181.

204

204 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … of alien faith, be his rejnite or station what it might; a … This roof is an intricate, up-and-down place, and the … dans le rleuve, le dieu ressuscitait d'entre les morts et apparaissait a … restres. Non seulement il devient son guide, mais il s'identifie a … de la supreme justice et ouvre a l'ame drclaree pure les portes

205

sera la symbols de cette seconde naissance a une vie qui, cette fois, … Monuments a Boulaq"—Aug. Jlariette Bey, 1873, pp. 105 et zeq.

206

206 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Osiris Onnofris appartient a la classe des dieux generaux qui ne sont … l'Histoire des Religions," 1888. [Note to second edition.]

207

drosses peculiar to the god; his legs and feet lie in a pylon- … terra-cotta, and even wood, were destined to bold the soft part or … T Thus depicted, he is called " the germinating Osiris." [Note to

208

a08 A THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE.

209

way straight across from Phila?. Last of all, forming the … themselves up from below in masses suggestive of primitive

210

210 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … of these are older by a thousand years and more than the … which the objective and subjective features are so equally

XIII: Philiae to Korosko

211

Sailing gently southward — the river opening wide … entirely the population seems to be regulated by the extent … ■—men laboring by the river side; women with babies

212

212 A TIIO USAND MILES UP THE NILE. … These golden sand-streams are the newest and most

213

was standing at 80° in the coolest corner of the large … as any of them. The sand lies wonderfully loose and … and shadows. There lives not the sculptor who could … rock about half-way up, we came at length to the top of

214

214 A THOUSAND MILES UP 1'HE NILE. … sisted, were but a shade less poor than herself. … And now, being fortunate in respect of the wind, which

215

got in a land where every green blade is precious to the … the desert; looking for onyxes and carnelians among the … are not too heavy nor napoleons too light for them. The

216

21G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … When on board, we begin now to keep a sharp lookout … day upon a sand island, some ten miles higher up. Mr. … the pylons of Dabdd with their background of desert;

217

change in the atmospheric conditions under which we live. … famous a constellation.

218

21S A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … bursting; others ranging apparently from one thousand to

219

The painter, with an eye to foregrounds, made a bid for … the offer.

XIV: Korosko to Abou Simbel

220

220 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … It so happened that we arrived at Korosko on the eve of

221

Landing from time to time when the boat was close in … Not a weed was to be seen; not an inch of soil appeared to … Here also, for the first time out of Egypt, we observed … just about to turn back when we caught sight of the ducks

222

222 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the history of the art, and gives us the best of … scribed; yet within those bounds he still enjoys a certain

223

II, returning from his first campaign against the Ruten, … blue upon the horizon. As the sun sets they seem to

224

224 4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … We landed. Before us lay an open space, at the farther

225

woman, bearing strange voices talking a strange tongue,

226

226 A TIIOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … We stood for a long time watching their uncouth dance. … saw none given—the wailing ceased; the women rose; every

227

animated, noisy throng dispersing in a dozen different … the governor'of Asstian had not reported over-favorably of … youth, it lias been handed down from generation to genera-

228

228 -4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … because more rare—is a sculptured palm-tree against which

229

trunk is given with elaborate truthfulness; and the … We went and looked at his grave. The fresh-turned … gated pebbles. One or two were fenced about with a mud

230

230 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … All hands being safe on board, we pushed olf at once,

231

Moved once or twice by the lamentations of some dark … tions supply all Egypt with saplings and contribute a … Being obliged to moor a few miles beyond Derr and having

232

232 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

233

Arabic land is too valuable in Nubia for either the living to … be seen in the southern face of the mountain. They are, … scarcely worth the trouble of a visit. … -Chen the palms ceased and the belt of cultivated land … bends in the river. … But the pilot shook his head and added: " Bukra" ("' to-

234

234 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … For our sailors, meanwhile, there was the excitement of … much less than a mile away, the four colossi came out,

235

with what they had seen from the river the rest of the

XV: Ramses the Great

236

236 A THOUSAND MILJSS UP THE NUM. … only to be made a posthumous usurper of glory, but to he

237

R AMESES THE Gil EAT. … helplessly through Westminister Abbey under the conduct … Rameses Ilf was the son of Seti I, the second Pharaoh

238

238 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … * See chap, viii, foot note, p. 126.

239

RAMESES THE GREAT. 239 … father upon the throne, and by the gradual retirement of … whereby the said prince and " Rameses, chief of rulers,

240

240 A 'THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE.

241

RAMESES THE GREAT. 241 … erect the most gorgeous and costly temples in which man … * Since this book was written, a further study of the subject has

242

242 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … canalize it, which is what she probably did. [Note to second

243

B AMESES THE GREAT. 243 … maniere on ne peut plus satisfaisante. Les Hebreux opprimes batis- … Ramses II regna on effet plus de 67 ans. Aussitot apres le retour do … pas de supposer que le roi eut sa residence a Thebes dans cet instant. … "II est impossible d'attribuer ni a- Meneptah I, ni it Seti II, ni a … pas que ce souverain a occupe les Hebreux a la construction de la ville

244

244 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … European savants than any archaeological event since the … divided by walls varying from eight to ten feet in thickness. … tres frequent Per-aa, 'la grande maison,' 'la haute porte,' qu'on a … This probably is the only title under which it was permissible for … translated in Genesis, 1. 4, where it is said that " when the days of

245

RAMESES THE GREAT. 245 … *This remarkable manuscript relates the journey made by a female

246

246 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … a letter on "Pithom-HeroOpolis" communicated to "The Academy" … *See M. Xaville's memoir, entitled "Goshen and the Shrine of … f Kadesh, otherwise Katesh or Kades. A town on the Orontes.

247

RAMESES THE GREAT. 247 … These invaluable letters, written on papyrus in the hie- … quon pent tirer de la transcription. Xeannioins. il y a lieu de prendre … l'assiniilation proposee—decouverte importante qu'il est a desirer de

248

248 -A- THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … f In a letter written by a priest who lived during this reign (Rame-

249

the quaint writing with which they are covered is as intel- … able.* From all these, we may be sure, were required … briques antiques a ete parfaitement reconnu. D'un autre cote, le … scription: ' Compte des macons, 12; en outre des homines a mouler … pedites par les ' chefs' on les ' intendants,' par les ' secretaires' et par

250

250 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Ethiopia under the nineteenth dynasty. His designs were … structures of surpassing magnificence. In Nubia, at the … de batisses d'apres l'ordre du Pharaon. Les carrieres, a partir de

251

dentally discovered under the mounds of Tel-el-Yahoodeh,* … the throne, we should, by help of this inscription, know … Marray is wrong, however, in attibuting the building to Kameses 11. … offered to Osiris by Kameses IV in the fourth year of his reign,

252

252 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … nothing to show that this youth of ten was, at the time … au soleil levant Iorsqu'il ('merge a l'horizon celeste. 11 porte la main … disputed fact of his actual sovereignty from early childhood, and so … O. Maspero. 4° Paris, 1807. See also chap, viii (foot note), p. 120.

253

would be that the stela of Dakkeh (dating as it does from

254

254 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE MLB. … flatterer should go so far as to credit a lad of thirteen with … Brugsch places the birth of Moses in the sixth year of

255

RAMESES THE GREAT. 255 … derneires six annees du regne de Menepthah; e'est a dire entre 1327 … self perish with his host, seems certain. The final oppression of the

256

256 A THOUSAND MTLES UP THE NILE. … by birth, must have been influenced to the act by Greek … lie not only states that Rameses the Great had, by his conquests, filled … quelles il dedie les temples. Le soleil de Ramses Mei/imoun qu'on

257

BAMESES THE GREAT. 257 … and offered up prayers to him, and regarded him as the

XVI: Abou Simbel

258

258 ■&■ THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … under the steep bank, and, without lifting one's head from

259

see the colossi properly. Standing between the rook and … "ulices, pouvaient deja. engager a la reporter vers la Basse Egypte. … bains." (See "Revue Archeologique, vol. ix, A. D. 1864.) In the

260

A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … heads with the accompanying profile

261

(From the soutkermost colossus, Abou Simbel.)

262

262 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE.

263

These were portrait statues; therefore they finished the … tion desdetails et des ornements a quelques sillons plus ou moins … Egyptiens d'entre prendre le travail a menie sur la pierre, sans avoir

264

2G4 -4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … mathomatiquement definitive. Ce proce'de' a toujours ete employ^ … M. Soldi is also of opinion that the Egyptian sculptors were igno-

265

some of Greek, some of Phoenician origin, tower so high

266

206 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … cree le soleil; le soleil, a son tour, est le createur des etres, animaux

267

facade of the great temple. Forever descending, drifting, … up (a. d. 1813). The top of the doorway was then thirty

268

2G8 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … When they were fairly gone and we had the marvelous

269

Varied turns of old Egyptian style upon the architraves … indicates a lofty philosophical standpoint, but as it reveals, perhaps,

270

270 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … To settle down then and there to a steady investigation

271

from without, now stumbling along by the light of a bunch … eyes like the incidents of a panorama. Here the king, … Nubians, so true to the type, so thick-lipped, flat-nosed and … blue complexion and towering plumes ; Maut wearing the … . Ka Harniachis, in Egyptian Ilar-em-Khou-ti, personifies the sun

272

M2 A THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE. … and contains over eleven hundred figures. Even the her- … pages. It is a picture-gallery in itself. It represents not

273

together an astonishing variety of incidents. The horses … this time-honored institution in full operation, the supe-

274

274 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … over with tiny chisel marks, which painfully confuse the … langes d'Aiolieologie," Egyp. and Assyr., vol. ii, p. 209. Also a

275

from which everything that does not immediately concern … de forme ordinaire, mais on remarque aussi dans leurs mains une

276

276 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE.

277

fro among these sculptured halls, like a shade among … There was something so weird and awful about the … "wo or three are surrounded by stone benches cut in the

278

278 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … found crypts in the thickness of the walls and recesses … Thus our days passed at Abou Simbel; the workers work-

279

with distinguished hospitality, killed a sheep in their … nous. As long as the Bagstones stayed, the two crews met … rumors that represented the second cataract as a populous

280

280 A- THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILS. … It took them three afternoons to complete the job; and

281

sumed I know not how many gallons a day. Our cook

282

282 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … It was a delightful time, however — delightful alike for

XVII: The Second Cataract

283

THE SECOND CATARACT. 283 … grapes. Others are twisted and writhen like the Vesuvian

284

284 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … similar in construction to that of Ibrim, still remains. The habita- … In a curious Arabic history of Nubia written in the tenth century … If Adwa and Adda are one and the same, it is possible that in this … absolutely certain from the tenor of a large stela sculptured on the

285

THE SECOND CATARACT. 285 … rock a few paces north of the smaller temple at Abou Simbel. This … al presente occulto a noi."—Kosellini Letterpress to " Monumenti

286

286 ■&■ THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … American friends would very properly call a "snag." … The painter, the idle man, the writer, were all on deck,

287

The pilot pointed to the cabin where L------and the little … We examined the object through our glasses. We … m about a year and a month.

288

288 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Egyptian buildings—once upon a time on the western bank

289

THE SECOND CATARACT. 289 … trees—can doubt which is the more picturesque. … but for the most part they record only the visits of the il- … tbis is the end of our journey. The cataract—an immense … still pools unbroken by a ripple ; everywhere full of life,

290

290 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … desolate, there is nothing really beautiful except the color. … the amber of the sands ; the pink and pearly mountains; … attempt it. And I feel now that any endeavor to put the … Ku'.'ln, would seem to be identical W'HU the A\i Bersi of Tiopsius.

291

THE SECOND CATARACT. 291 … one visit to the cataract. We saw no crocodiles, though … Like Achilles, the crocodile has but one vulnerable

292

292 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Having struggled with no little difficulty through the first

293

hours within the space of a mile, was run at last into a … thither by the wind. The tumuli, however, are mounded … the center of the mound, we at all events succeeded in … would repay a more systematic investigation.

294

294 A THOUSAND MILES UP TIIE NILE.

XVIII: Discoveries at Abou Simbel

295

We came back to find a fleet of dahabeeyahs ranged … We had now quite a gay time. The Phila? gave a dinner- … It was by comparing our watches with those of the

296

29G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … establish an arbitrary canon; so we called it seven when the … time of ours, that the southern cross was now visible every

297

Halfeh, and had remarked how fine the view must be from

298

298 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … All at once it flashed upon the painter that he had seen … " Pray come immediately—I have found the entrance to … and knees, as for bare life, under the burning sun. We had … And now, more than ever, we felt the need of in^flo-

299

DISCO VEBIES A T ABO U SIMBEL. 299

300

300 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … morning just the same, till midday. Our native con- … baskets, and a number of little slips of planking which,

301

D1SG0 VERIES A T ABO U SLVBEL. 301 … every morsel into our guest's august mouth, as if the said … tions, the poor man eat till he could eat no longer; then … him. lie tasted it, but immediately returned the cup, … thing; in L-----'s field-glass, in the painter's accordion, in

302

302 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … sorry not to have had a letter from you since you were … A model letter this; brief and to the point. … once more had the place to ourselves. So long as they … lady took their books and knitting there, and made a little

303

merits and surveyed the ground round about, especially … astounding as compared with the north, east, and west … for the moment he said nothing, but went on quietly dis- … ran to help in the work. Soon a second ami smaller skull … bv the

304

304 A. THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … a chance Nubian grave, and that the bowls (which at first

305

enabled completely to clear the landing, which was curi-

306

306 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … breadth by fourteen feet eight inches in length. The … cipal entrance facing the Nile, six feet; width of two side

307

post to which to tie one of the main ropes of his sketching- … 6. Stone hawks on pedestals. … formed part of the door, lay overturned against the side

308

A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILK … I have now to speak of the decorations of the adytum,

309

being divided from the next by a small sitting figure. … The west, or principal wall, facing … west, as one is so accustomed to regard the position of buildings paral-

310

310 A THOUSAND MILES UP TEE NILE. … are varieties of the Madonna in Italy or Spain. There was an Amen

311

clerful preservation of the surface enabled one to see by … "olds the jackal-headed … Barneses II; but the feat … the dictionaries derive from the Arabic al-kimia, may he traced back

312

312 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE. … The subjects represented on this wall are as follows: … made of steel, which, in the well known instance of the butcher's

313

the pile. … ___a … Note.—This inscription roads according to the

314

314 A THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE. … Ea-user-ma Sotep-en-Ea, as prince of every place where the … monuments forever facing the eastern horizon of heaven." … At the upper end of this wall is depicted a life-size … 1 M. Grehaut, in his translation of a hymn to Amen-Ka, observes: … * This inscription was translated for the first edition of this book … in celebration of each thirtieth anniversary of the accession of the

315

hero a portrait of Nefertari corresponding to the portrait

316

316 A THOUSAND MILES DP THE NILE. … lines, almost obliterated by the sand. … Enough, however, remains to show that the lines were

317

was sent hither to construct a road; also that he built … HIERATIC INSCRIPTION, … ■ • . thy son having . . . thou hast conquered the worlds

318

318 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

319

recess, as at Denderah. The standard of Horns Aroeris, … „„ ,ma>"- however, be represented on the north wall, where it is

320

320 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … pass that the place had remained hidden all these ages … have substituted their own cartouches for those of the … abandoned in consequence of the ruin which had befallen … * That this shock of earthquake occurred during the lifetime of

321

less injured the other three, flung down the great brick … With so much irreparable damage done to the great … contemporary visitor—the son of the Royal Son of Kush— … thinks of looking for them. But such was not the case in … ttameses II seems to be proved by the fact that, where the Osiride

322

322 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … in 1869, when the empress of the French was at Abou … subject—that besides being buried outside to a depth of

323

doorway was found and an opening first effected, the sand … we were first to enter the place, at all events since the … <l»d sculptures are defaced. The Louvre contains a full-

XIX: Back Through Nubia

324

324 A THOUSAND MILES UP T11E NILE. … As a rule, people begin to get tired of temples about this … fewer. Miss Martineau tells how, in this part of the … of those notes and only some of those sketches in the … than in these Nubian buildings) the slow deterioration of the

325

We left Abou Sirabel just as the moou was rising on … Slowly but surely, however, the hard-won miles go by.

326

326 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … and blue eyes (grafted on brown-black skins) date back to

327

And now, though the north wind blows persistently, it … The thermometer stands at 85° in the saloon of the

328

338 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … crested polls and chattering disparagingly, like a couple of

329

DISCO VERIES A T ABO U SIMBEL. 329 … dess. The writer, meanwhile, hidden behind a curtain,

330

330 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Supposing yonder town to have been founded in the … between Abou Siuibel and Philas, we found the old alluvial soil

331

same evening, when the sun was setting, we saw a fan-like … rating) unable to descend as rain, because dispersed at a … ''One day's march in the hagar" (" desert "). … howadji, traveling alone and on foot, had once gone in

332

332 A THOUSAND MILES UP Til E NILE. … itself a dull ruin but picturesquely desolate. Seen as one … long in the barrel; and some of the others carry slender

333

which to date the building, we looked in vain.* … i Sec 'I'll,: ScarabcBus Sacer, by C. Woodrooffe, B. A.—a paper

334

334 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … The whole thing, in short, as regards sculpturesque style, … * See chap, x, p. 163. Dakkeh (the Pselcis of the Greeks and

335

DISCO VlttllKS A T ADO U SIMDEL. 335 … At Kobban also was found the famous stela of Barneses II, called … Contra Pselcis must be the same town."—" Topography of Thebes," … its walls. "The Ethiopians," says Strabo, " having taking advan- … and the reason which had induced them to begin the war. On their

336

3BC A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … twenty. Vertical on the inside, they are built at a but- … the insurgents fled may have been the large sand island which hero

337

spread over the land as manure — has now disappeared … Our adventures by the way are few and far between; and

338

338 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … One morning early, we see a bride taken across the river … ing, bobbing, poussetting, pursuing each other at a gallop, … The natives hereabout are said to be quarrelsome ; and if, … way up to the temple, which is excavated in the face of a

339

osiride colossi, which stand twenty feet high without the … while those of the avenue outside have distinctly Ethiopian … the decadence school.* The rosy half-light of an Egyptian … " C'est un ouvrage non aclieve du temps de 1'Erapereur A.uguste.

340

340 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

341

But if the decorative work in the presence-chamber of the … yards upon which it is possible to set one's foot on the … is the Greek inscription of Silco of Ethiopia, f This in-

342

3-13 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … I trusted them; because they are a people of good faith. … For I am a lion on the plains, and a goat upon the mountains. … | Blemyes: The Blemeys were a nomadic race of Berbers, supposed

343

we arrive next morning. As the mason's work at Tafah is … been effected by human means without the aid of power- … riiin, one quite perfect, and now used as a stable. There … mclosed in boundary walls, some of which are built in the

344

344 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … This same native, having sold a necklace to the idle man

345

evidence of the sincerity of the religious sentiment in the … We are now less than forty miles from Phila?; but … "nable to help them. Talhamy, whose own stores are at a … ftgain. Enough! It is not for the ladies to trouble them- … ^e troubled and not to do what little we can for the … Under a burning sky we touch for an hour or two at

346

346 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … flour. Old Ali, Riskalli and Miisa, whose homes lie in the … * In these secret chambers (the entrance to which was closed by a

347

DISCO VBRIBS A T ABO U SIMBBL. 347 … ently in the barley. It was a jileasant sound, for we knew … Our scanty crew, armed with sticks, flew at once to the

348

348 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … a private war on our hands, no captain, and one of our … Outwardly indifferent, inwardly not a little anxious, wo

349

DISCO VERIES A T ABO 0 SIMBEL. 349 … to do with it; that the matter, in short, was in the hands … Summoned next morning to give evidence, the idle man

350

350 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

351

uppermost; and two soldiers proceeded to execute the sen- … pened, when the afternoon of the eighth came round, that … , It has been a hot day, and there is dead calm on the

352

352 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

XX: Silsilis and Edfu

353

Going, it cost us four days to struggle up from Assiian

354

354 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … The sheik, however, gives the word — his second echoes

355

back with the old stolid face; slips on his shoes; drops on … We had fancied till now that the cataract Arabs for … four that shot the fall this season, several had been slightly

356

350 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE. … now, for the Nile is gradually sapping the bank and carry- … accomplished the main object of his journey, he was glad … tion complete a Horus, et c'est it ce titre qu'il uta.it adOl'e il Ombos,"

357

Cairo. That opportunity—represented by a noble duke

358

355 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … ured and painted; and in one larger than the rest were … lait divin le roi Horns, encore enfant. L'Egypte n'a jamais, comma … cliarme et etonne a la fois."—•" Itineraire de la llaut Egypte." A

359

goddess named Ta-nr-t,* represented in one of the side … w'th an offering of two sistrums. As a hippopotamus … °cc»pies a prominent place in the facade of the Mammisi. … j. 1 n the Heavens, this goddess personified the constellation Trsa

360

300 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … separated by a thin partition of rock, opened a second and … into valleys of debris; and came back at last to the

361

the lower part had been removed and the upper part left … quarrying, our rough-and-ready blasting looks like the

362

3G2 A THOUSAND MILKS UP TEE NILE. … Ten years ago nothing was visible of the great Temple … dous task, ho says : " I caused to bo demolished the sixty-

363

mound has been cut clean away all round the building, … the same time the pylons, covered with gigantic sculptures, … Who enters that gate crosses the threshold of the past, … ment, every column, every stair, is in its place. The roof,

364

3G4 A THOUSAND MILES UP TllM NILE … ples. They belong to the same period. They are built … every doorway, the outer wall of the temple, the inner side … * Edfu is the elder temple; Denderah the copy. Where the

365

tlio poem of Pentaur. Those went out with the Pharaohs … the gods; lists of the priestslmd priestesses of both Edfu … No great collection of these inscriptions, like the " Den- … the depths of the Edfu mine'and brings back as much

366

3G6 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … all these visits; and if the gods, like modern emperors, had … served them in the temples; who robed and unrobed them; … them tormented with doubts of the gods ? Were there … 1888, for an account of how the statues of Isis and other deities were

367

pylons are on a grand scale, with wide beveled windows … tunately gone; but the total height without them is one

368

308 A THOUSAND MILES UP Tllti NlLti.

369

reconstruct the ground-plan of the whole building in hiero- … much that is ruined, the one absolutely perfect structure— … how it all looked when the sacred flotilla came sweeping up … "•hove their heads, burst into a frantic chorus of " back- … sent the dwellings of some sixty generations. When they

XXI: Thebes

370

370 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … "We had so long been the sport of destiny that we hardly … stands to me for a host of hravo and generous and kindly … Where Copt and Arab drive the same doubtful trade it is

371

salesmen the Arabs are perhaps the less dishonest. Both … their hieroglyphed limestone tablets, are executed with a

372

372 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUE NILE. … some were partly colored. The colors and brushes were … Meanwhile we waited, expecting to be ushered into the

373

governor's house, and lie immediately vanished round the

374

374 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … thetic lying at the bottom of its grave in the morning sun- … AYe went away, meanwhile, for a few hours, and saw … " .Notice des Monuments a 13oulak, p. 40. Paris, 1S73,

375

It was a hot climb ; the sun blazing overhead ; the cliii's … They were numbered half a century ago by the late Sir … As a child " The Manners and Customs of the Ancient … them in their gardens ; listened to the music of their lutes … * marvel that they have not yet finished polishing the Bur-

376

376 A- THOUSAND MILKS UP THE MILE. … the right figure. These people lived in the time of the … We had luncheon that morning, I remember, with the

377

going to and fro—the brown and battered Arabs, squatting … the air circulates freely among those simple and beautiful … topographical descriptions, the account he gives of the … * Diodorus, " Biblioth Hist.," 13k. i, cliap. iv. The fault of inac-

378

3?8 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … xviii, of the present work; p. 319.

379

chariot, sends arrow after arrow against the flying foe. … Must have lifted his head some ten feet higher still. " The … we must add the height of the crown, which would proportionately … ninety-two feet, high. This was, so far as is known, the largest … etrie at about nine hundred tons; t. e., one hundred tons mure than the

380

380 A THOUSAND MILES tTP Tim MILE. … doubts for a moment that this statue was one of the won- … how or when the ruin had been done. It was enough that … stupendous fragments, the fallen colossus is more astonish-

381

the way in winch this color was applied, one would say that … ■The fragments of wall and shattered pylon that yet

382

382 A THOUSAND MILES UP Tim NILE.

383

As biographical material, the temple ami pavilion at … aft" I others in a tomb behind Medinet Habu. Purchased soon … DiuTU nrst' ^ea'' tue text' 's complete throughout." The papyrus … It al n' !m<' ^-y n's delivery of the country from foreign subjection. … arch !""s; historical speech and conclusion. Throughout the mon-

384

384 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the plan of which includes, besides the usual halls, side- … ordinary Egyptian monarch, he was as distinguished in the battle-

385

tower. The lodges and tower stand to each other as the … ^ .ie writer, with help, got as high as the first chamber; the … buil v " e reason to believe that tliis is only a fragment of the … or ornaments complete, it must have formed a composition

386

386 A THOUSAND MILES UP THIS NILE. … the works of Wilkinson or Eosellini) are here reproduced

387

pawn. The table lias disappeared. The king has lost his … ■The king, it seems, under the na … . t"A Medinet Habou, dans son palais.il s'est fait representer … etoaote a fait la Demeter figyptienne, comme il a fait d'Osiris le

388

of a religious and military character. The king, as usual, … head in these friezes is a portrait. The Libyan is beard- … * Baal, written sometimes Bar, was, like Sutekh, a god borrowed

389

Medinet Habit sculptures. Pelasgians from the Greek … "utlined, so to say, in intaglio, and relieved in the hollow,

390

390 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … foot. Bejoice, 0 Egypt! Exalt thy voice to the heavens; … Such, linked each to each, by a running commentary of

391

The writer pitched her tent in the doorway of the first

392

392 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … represent Amenhotep, or Amnnoph 111; and that the northernmost

393

whoso names figure in the shrines of the Ramessides at … stands his Queen Tuaa, the mother of Rameses II. Else- … Adjoining what may be called the monumental part of … though not in direct communication, with the royal tombs … chamber or votive oratory, the walls of which are covered

394

394 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … remain on the walls of these ruined apartments are, in fact,

395

two kings, and served most likely by a twofold college of … -L'be Temple of Gournah—northernmost of the Theban … °"e morning about an hour after daybreak, crossing the river … t -I here is a very curious window at the end of this sanctuary, with

396

A THOUSAND MlLftS tfP TilHJ NILE. … Striking off by and by toward the left, we make for a

397

We now leave behind us the well, and the trees, and the … fhe weird rocks stand like sentinels to right and left a,s

398

398 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

399

take comfort in those shadowy reminiscences. The kings, … scend one's self into the lower world and to tread the path … half-demon. Huge serpents writhe beside us along the

400

A THOUSAND MILES UP 'THE NILE. … torment. Beheld by the dim and shifting light of a few … Elsewhere we come upon scenes less painful. The sun … statues represent those which were actually placed in the tomb; and

401

Coming out for a moment into blinding daylight, we … I 1 he crocodile represents Sebek. In one of the Boulak papyri, … ii fhe tomb numbered three in the first small ravine to the left as

402

402 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Still Eameses III seems to have had a grand idea of … sonal luxury as a palace-building Pharaoh might delight … as obviously blind. The harps are magnificent, richly inlaid and

403

another in No. 9 (Barneses VI); the first, a grand mono- … bled graffiti on the walls. When and by whom the sepul- … ers, who lived by depredations of the kind. A contem- … I aris and Ohalon, 1870), gives a list of royal tombs inspected by an

404

404 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … No royal tomb has been found absolutely intact in the … it. He found in it statues of wood and porcelain, and the … are familiar to even those who have not seen them in the Boulak

405

their dark palaces magnificently equipped for the life to … ments which were as certainly buried in those tombs as the … have been collected from a variety of other royal mummy-cases,

406

40G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … the mummied body, lie thought he should rise as from … lorn through these desolate halls when all is silent and the … various parts of the mummy. In some mysterious manner the

407

knew where they were hidden. But there was a solemn … Price, he haggled and hesitated for a day or two,evidently try-

408

408 • A THOUSAND MILES UP TRW NILE. … through the Alexandrian custom-house by a single agent … ellini tells how they used to sit up at night, dividing the

409

We asked if it was just like this when the sitteh lived … J-'he sun was near setting. AVe could distinguish the … son, among the tombs of Sheik Abd-el-Koorneh. Here he … younger—the "little Ahmed" whom Lady Duff Gordon

410

410 A THOUSAND MILkS UP THE NILE. … So we drank Nile water ; and for the first time in our

411

* Samak: a large flat fish, rather like a brill. … ** Kunafah: a rich pudding made of rice, almonds, cream, cinna-

412

412 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … To eat gracefully with one's fingers is a fine art; to carve … finger and thumb deep into the breast, brought out a long, … the princess' pipe and smoked it very cleverly all the

413

always do wind up at Luxor, with a performance of … bounding every now and then down the whole length … never tired. This was the leader of the little band—an … went on; seeming at last to forget everything but his own … , . The kemengeh is a kind of small two-stringed fiddle, the body of

414

414 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … AVhile at Luxor, we went one Sunday morning to the

415

l'obed deacon, who stood reading at the reading desk with … the lessons as they were read in Coptic was translated,

416

416 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

417

Before leaving, we asked permission to look at the

418

418 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … The idle man hereupon suggested that it seemed to him, … The bishop, though perfectly right in stating that Coptic and

419

I then asked him if the Coptic was in all respects a dead … The bishop shook hands with us all round, and, but that … thing as ii Coptic alphabet previous to that time. The Coptic alpha-

420

430 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

XXII: Abydus and Cairo

421

AIYDUS AND C A I It 0 .

422

wonderfully changed since we first passed this way. The … closed jalousies, and wet sails hung round the sides of the … In such wise, and in such a temperature, wo found our- … Not even L------could be induced to take a six-mile

423

ordered out her sketching-tent and paid a last visit to tho … Abydus. Our proper course would have been to push on … exciting fashion we somehow or other accomplished the … above the surface of the corn, like galleys with fantastic

424

424 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE. … pigeon-towers in courses of pots and bricks, give a singular

425

knives.* Meanwhile, fluttering from heap to heap, settling … the houses, noticing here a sculptured block built into a … could in the time and having before us along ride through … Buried as it, Abydus,J even under its mounds, is a place

426

42G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … Note to Second Edition.—" Des monuments trouves il y a deux … la Haute Egvpte." A Mariette Bey. Avant Propos, p. 40. Alexan-

427

capital of Egypt. The seat of power shifted strangely … the native origin of the race can be adduced than the posi-

428

428 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … piers, columns, halls, and passages, and all the seven sanc- … *M. Mariette, in bis great work on the excavations at Abydus, … p. G2. Alex. 1872. There is at the upper end of each of these seven

429

There is so far a family resemblance between temples of … the funereal papyri, but very rarely seen in the temple sculptures.

430

430 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE. … the guide came to warn us of approaching evening. We … The building is strictly coeval in date and parallel in style with the … were probably either princes born of families originally from Abydus,

431

to push on farther, contented ourselves with climbing a … * See "Itineraire de la Haute fieypte:" A. Mariette Bey: p. 147.

432

432 A THOUSAND MlLBS UP THE NILE. … noonday moored at a place called Ayserat, where we paid … and lives in patriarchal fashion surrounded by a numerous

433

cising ground, and a large court-yard; the whole inclosed … The Aga's brother and nephews put them through their … a hundred such standing in his stables. Pipes, coffee, and

434

434 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB WILE. … Egypt. L------visited some of the vice-regal hareems at

435

AB YD US A ND CAIRO. 435 … It seemed to us'that the wives of the fellahin were in … and thirty-five miles between us and Cairo. From this … generally a case of sunstroke on her hands. One by one, … we felt lost at first in the big rooms at Shepheard's hotel,

436

43G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

437

It is difficult to say but a few inadequate words of a place … for the first time since ever " mummy was sold for bal- … curtain words (that is, repeat prayers and invocations) on the day … * This barbarous rite has been abolished by the present khedive.

438

43S A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE. … f There is no evidence to show that the statues of Sepa and Nesa

439

Ghawiizi. The eyes of both statues are inserted. The … il|i point de vue etknograpkique. Si la race Egyptienne etait a

440

440 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

441

possible to get tired of the pyramids. Here L------and … and then once more comes the sandy slope, and the cavern- … it. The ascent is extremely easy. Rugged and huge as

442

442 A THOUSAND MILES UP TUB NILE. … they did not cut steps in the blocks, so as to make the as- … the top; then, finding we were English, shouted " God

443

slabs, like the roofing-stones of the temples. "We see how

444

444 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.

445

banded in light and shade, is plain to see. So is the dome-

Appendix

447

A. M'CALLUM, ESQ., TO THE EDITOR OF " THE TIMES."* … THE EGYPTIAN" PAXTIIEON.

448

of the greater gods or else attendants upon them. Most of the gods … 5, Seb; G, Osiris; 7, Set and Nephthys; 8, Horus and Athor. The … Kneph, Knum or Knouphis—Ham-headed. Called the maker of

449

Ha; liis right hand uplifted, holding the flail. The god of produc- … Osiris—Of human form, mummified, crowned with a miter, and … Nefer Atum—Human-headed, and crowned with the pschent. … Horns Harpakhrat (Harpocrates), or Horus the child. Is represented

450

THE RELIGIOUS BELIEF OF TIIE EGYPTIANS. … itself to many interpretations of a contradictory nature, none of … can scarcely say in what respects he is incomprehensible. He is the

451

one who exists by essence; the one sole life of all substance; the one … beings. Hence that which doubtless was originally a symbol be-

452

" In tlie course of ages, the sense of the religion became obscured. … "The chronology of Egypt has been a disputed point for cent-

453

the dated sepulchral tablets of the bull Apis at the serapeum, the … Mariette, though recognizing the need for extreme caution in the … To this chronology may be opposed the brief table of dates com- … "not as an attempt to reconcile systems," but as an aid to the classi-

454

Mena and the commencement of the ancient empire … Expulsion of Shepherds and commencement of the … Sheshonk (Shishak), the conqueror of Jerusalem . … A very important addition to our chronological information with … paper, entitled Per Thontafelfund von 'Pell Amarna, read before the

Verlagsinformation

455

OF THE … All who have at heart the best interests of literature, and would

456

The Essays or Counsels Civil and Moral of Francis Bacon. … They (Bacon's Essays) contain the condensed wisdom gathered during tho … scene himself, listening to the counsels of the generals, hearing the tread of … The Essays of Elia have been characterized as the " finest things for humor, … For sale by all Booksellers, or will be sent post-paid on receipt of price, by the pub'

457

note by Robert Thorne, M.A. Portrait. 12mo, cloth, gilt top, $1.00. … revelations of character and brilliant bursts of eloquence, mark the utterances … For sale by all Booksellers, or will be sent post-paid on receipt of price, by the pub-

458

not cause it to grow trite, but ever the more strongly to lay hold on the soul … ley, F.S.A., F.L.S. Portrait. 12mo, cloth, gilt top, $1.00. … one of the greatest minds of this century. . . . Romola, which is one of … For sale bij all Booksellers, or will be sent post-paid on receipt of price, by the pub-

459

John Halifax, Gentleman. A Novel. By Miss Mulock. Por- … lated from the German by F. E. Burnett. Portrait. 12mo, cloth, … Professor of English Literature in the University of Edinburgh. … Do Quincey's skill in narration, his rare pathos, his wide sympathies, the

460

Westward Ho! or, The Voyages and Adventures of Sir … 11 Westward Ho! " is one of the most vigorous, powerful, and fascinating of … " Self-TIelp" is a book which helps and stimulates men to elevate and improve … Eyre." This was doubtless due in part to the freshness and vigor of mind it … For sale by all Booksellers, oi' will be sent post-paid on receipt of price, by the pub-

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THEBES AND KARNAK. 123

children screaming for backshish; the dealers exhibiting
strings of imitation scarabs; the donkey boys vociferating
the names and praises of their beasts; all alike regarding
us as their lawful prey.

" Hi, lady ! Yankee-Doodle donkey; try Yankee Doo-
dle !" cries one.

" Far-away Moses !" yells another. " Good donkey—
fast donkey—best donkey in Luxor !"

"This Prince of Wales donkey I" shouts a third, haul-
ing forward a decrepit little weak-kneed, moth-eaten look-
ing animal, about as good to ride ujion as a towel-horse.
"First-rate donkey! splendid donkey! God save the
queen ! Hurrah !"

But neither donkeys nor scarabs are of any importance
in our eyes just now, comjiared with the letters we hope to
find awaiting us on shore. No sooner, therefore, are the
boats made fast than we are all off, some to the British
consulate and some to the poste restante, from both of
which we return rich and happy.

Meanwhile we propose to sjiend only twenty-four "hours
in Luxor. We were to ride round Karnek this first after-
noon ; to cross to Medinct Ilabu and the Bamesseum* to-
morrow morning; and to sail again as soon after midday as
possible. We hope to get a general idea of the topography
of Thebes, and to carry away a superficial impression of
the architectural style of the Pharaohs. It would be but
a glimpse; yet that glimpse was essential. For Thebes
represents the great central period of Egyptian art. The
earlier styles lead up to that point; the later depart from it;
and neither the earlier nor the later are intelligible with-
out it. At the same time, however, travelers bound for
the second cataract do well to put off everything like a
detailed study of Thebes till the time of coming back.
For the present, a rapid survey of the three principal
group of ruins is enough. It supplies the necessary link.
It helps one to a right understanding of Edfu, of Philae,
of Abu Simbel. In a word, it enables one to put things

* This famous building is supposed by some to be identical both
with the Memnonium of Strabo and the tomb of Osymandias as
described by Diodorus Siculus. Champollion, however, following
the sense of the hieroglyphed legends, in which it is styled "The
House of Barneses " (11), has given to it the more appropriate name
of the Hamesseum.

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