Titelblatt
II_Titelblatt
UP THE NILE.
Preface to the first edition
III
Ampere has put Egypt in an epigram. " A donkey ride
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also saw the wrecks of three steamers between Cairo and
IV
is expensive, leisurely, delightful; the other is cheap, swift,
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cold, sometimes—in December and January; mild in Feb-
V
subject grows with the book, and with the knowledge one
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if not actually to original sources (which would be the
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consider time spent; and I have yet to thank the friends
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surely not least among the glories of learning that those
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people are much less changed in Egypt than we of the
VI
whom we know so well in tlie wall paintings of the tombs.
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such a basin as we see pictured in the festival scenes at
VII
essential features the painted galleys represented in the
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man whom I met in Egypt—an Englishman who had long
VIII
by step to the study of hieroglyphic writing ; and I now
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artist painted a very beautiful picture called "The Secret
Preface to the second edition
Contents
XIII
CAIRO AND THE GREAT PYRAMID.
…
CAIRO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE.
…
Departure for the Nile Voyage—Farewell to Cairo—Turra—
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The Palms of Memphis—Three Groups of Pyramids—The M.
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The Rule of the Nile—The Shadfif—Beni Suef—Thieves hy
XIV
Sheik Cotton "—The Convent of the Pulley—A Copt—The
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Christmas Day—The Party Completed—Christmas Dinner on
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Selim—Kasr es Syad—Forced Labor—Temple of Den-
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Luxor—Donkey-boys—Topography of Ancient Thebes—Pylons
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A Storm on the Nile—Ertnent—A Gentlemanly Bey—Esneh—
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The Black Governor—An Enormous Blunder—Tannhiiuser
XV
THE CATARACT AND THE DESERT.
…
Pharaoh's Bed—The Temples—Champollion's Discovery—The
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the Way—Panoramic Views—Volcanic Cones—Dakkeh—
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El-Id el-Kebir—Stalking Wild Ducks—Temple of Amada—
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Youth of Rameses the Great—Treaty with the Kheta—His
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The Colossi—Portraits of Rameses the Great—The Great Sand-
List of Illustrations
I: Cairo and the Great Pyramid
2
2 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
were going up the Nile—to which questions it would have
…
from Brindisi, followed by forty-eight hours of quarantine.
…
still in search of sunshine, the talk fell upon Algiers—
4
4 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
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workmen, in every variety of costume, and of every shade
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Now a water-carrier goes by, bending under the weight
6
6 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
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stools and cabinets of ebony inlaid with mother-of-pearl.
…
Another turn or two, and you are in the slipper bazaar,
8
8 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
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comed and dismissed with smiles. L------and the writer
…
ground, and we learned that it was much in favor for
9
constantly to turn our steps and our thoughts in the direc-
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The same may be said of their captains, with the same dif-
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heard before, afford as yet no kind of help to the
12
12 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
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finished, and as if the workmen might be coming back to-
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where—except, indeed, for a few minutes to the brink of
…
the duration of six or seven thousand jrears; and the great
II: Cairo and the Mecca Pilgrimage
16
le A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
A number of small streets having lately been demolished
…
laid out as a public square. With this desirable end in
17
quadrangle, open to the sky and inclosed within lofty walls,
…
tions on coming in. This done, he left his slippers on the
18
vaulted ball a hundred feet square, in the center of which
…
pretty confidence on the brink of the basin, and hav-
…
basket and bundle of rushes beside him ; and here, close
19
CAIRO AND THE MEGGA PILGRIMAGE. 19
…
except the great marble court-vard and fountain. Tho
…
huge vulgar drawing-room from, which the furniture has
20
20 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE,
…
member the order of our sight-seeing in Cairo, for the
…
is over in a few minutes. The present pageant fulfilled all
21
CAIRO AND THE MECCA PJLGliLVAOE. 21
…
selves in and out among the carriages; lined the road on
…
gravity of demeanor! For the truth is that gravity is by
…
passion for them is insatiable. He not only indulges in
22
22 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
came a straggling, irregular crowd of pilgrims, chiefly of
…
before they arrived in sight, came the howling dervishes—
26
2G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
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remained as if suspended in mid-air. Still the frenzy
…
At length, just as the fury was at its height and the
27
CAIRO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE. 27
…
At that moment the leader came over, knelt down beside
…
_ The court-yard as we came out was full of dervishes sit-
28
of dilapidation more to bad workmanship than to time.
…
Apart, however, from its poverty of design and detail,
…
work, I remember, with a drive on the Shubra road and a
III: Cairo to Bedreshayn
32
A rapid raid into some of the nearest shops for things
…
jack, comes swiftly threading its way in and out among
33
the captain and are as busy as bees; for there are cabins to
…
charge of firearms sent us all running upon deck and
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I fear that wo of the Bagstones and Phila3—being mere
…
us "bon voyage" and good-by. Then the M. B.'s, who,
40
40 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE.
…
dreamed of doing so. Some would not touch wine—had
…
sailors were wont to sit in a circle and solemnly smoke a
…
on shore without a tobacco-pouch and a tiny book of
IV: Sakkarah and Memphis
43
moored for the night, we were roused early next morning
…
up to the village for twenty-five, intending, perhaps with
44
44 A. THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE.
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veil more closely over her face, fearing the evil eye.
…
in such a scene and but little beauty. On the contrary,
45
No two are of precisely the same size, or built at precisely
…
thirty than twenty persons. For there are the M. B.'s and
…
il'id Talhamy, all on donkeys; and then there are the
46
Our style of dress, too, however convenient, is not exactly
…
well-founded belief in his general abilities. And George,
…
It is a long and shelterless ride from the palms to the
47
the whole plateau is thickly'strewn with scraps of broken
…
than would have befitted a gang of professional body-
…
Notwithstanding that I had first seen the pyramids of
48
48 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
hundred according to the computation of Bunsen. One's
…
yet to my thinking the pyramid of Ouenephes looks older
49
Wilkinson describes the interior ;is " a hollow dome
…
Making up now for lost time, we rode on as far as the
50
statues of the Dromos, the inscribed tablets of the Temple
…
If, however, the toil was great, so also was the reward.
…
f For an excellent and exact account of tbe Serapeum and the
51
combs—vast labyrinths of vaults and passages hewn out of
…
A lighted candle was then given to each person and the
53
From this point the corridor branches off for another
…
ments toward clearing up disputed points of Egyptian
54
54 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
indicates as "a young and august stranger" traveling in
…
M. About, who professes to have had the story direct from
…
identify the unfortunate hero of this curious anecdote.
…
From hence, across a farther space of sand we went in
…
colonnade, from one corner of which a covered passage
58
58 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
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How pleasant it was, after being suffocated in the Sera-
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chains and precious amulets engraved with the name of
59
Par more startling, however, than the discovery of either
…
One is never weary of looking at it—of repeating to one's
61
woods, threading our way among the same mounds that
…
in among the trees; and in front of one of these we find
62
conclave, half solemn, half ludicrous, with the goats
…
effaced so utterly, Yet here it stood—here where the
82 V: Bedreshayn to Minieh
65
It is the rule of the Nile to hurry up the river as fast as
…
and never resting till they have gained the farthest point
66
what order that vast and august procession of dynasties
…
contrary to custom need a certain amount of insistance
…
them; but he sets it down to a habit of harmless curiosity—
…
get rid of obstacles—to put the right thing in the right
…
without the added puzzlement of being read backward.
…
eveningon returning to the boats; but we insisted on a second
67
day in the same place. This, too, with the favorable wind
…
perfectly manageable; but that air of resignation came to
69
stooping and rising, stooping and rising, with the regu-
…
require another shadoof to be worked in the trough into which the
71
the mosque become gradually crowded with lookers on.
…
So the day passes. Driven back again and again, but
…
the inhabitants of the town, we received a visit from a sal-
72
For three days and nights the adverse wind continued to
…
take fright like a troop of startled deer and vanish with
…
came down the river about noon, showing like a yellow fog
73
once more got under way. It was delightful to see the big
…
wants for amusement. Now we pass an island of sand-
…
of pushing on to Beni Hassan before the rest of the party
…
the way. All risks taken into account, we decide to put
74
74 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
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money in plenty; he fasts no oftener than other Moham-
…
We are by this time drawing toward a range of yellow
75
past and now rolls on in undulating drifts to the water's
…
only Coptic monks and not Moslem santons, the sailors, half
…
And this is a Copt; a descendant of the true Egyptian
77
eight, minutes, a vast arch of deep-bine shade, about
…
accessories of cloud and vapor as in Nubia are wholly
78
I leave the problem for wiser travelers to solve. "We had
…
dropped unexpectedly into the midst of a plowed field ;
79
legged like shabby old idols in shabby old shrines—the
…
one fell swoop— the native cook's shop exhaling savory
…
wheat, and dura. The women go to and fro with bouquets
VI: Minieh to Siut
84
84 A TITO USAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
Nothing could be prettier or gayer than the spectacle
…
ence in a roar. Bei's Hassan did the honors. George,
85
and our fantasia ended with a blaze of light, like a pan-
…
we can. Things do not, of course, always fall out exactly
…
Meanwhile, the skies are always cloudless, the days
…
nasties. The sparrows and water-wagtails perch familiarly
86
86 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
have for us the excitement of novelty are continually oc-
…
Then the men fly to their punting poles or jump into the
88
88 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
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fifteen feet in height; but in the absence of any near
…
again, but without success; [or the intense midday sun was
90
90 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
It was, I think, toward the afternoon of this second
…
thus, watching the movements of the creature, its untiring
91
like devotion to the matter in hand, one sees how subtle a
…
multiplied a million-fold; sculptured over the portals of
…
if only because other people do so, or to get rid of a trouble-
93
beeyah moored than Kei's Hassan and the steersman started
…
from Siut. There is a whole street of such pottery here in
94
94 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
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leads from Siut to the mountain of tombs. Of the ancient
…
low. Layer above layer, in beds of strongly marked strati-
95
the huge portal. A circular hole in the threshold marks
…
This inscription (erroneously entered in Murray's Guide
…
acting for the Egypt exploration fund. Mr. Griffith has for the
…
J; Some famous tombs of very early date, enriched with the same
VII: Siut to Denderah
99
We started from Siut with a couple of tons of new
…
and the river was known to be free from shallows, we went
…
had almost always one man on the sick list, and were
…
selves in some way. L------, with her little medicine chest
…
helpless and despondent when hurt, and ignorant of the
100
100 4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
was something very pathetic in the simple faith with which
…
a few simple cures, rose high among the crew. They called
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of pebbles and wild flowers.
…
Flying before the wind with both sails set, we see the
…
chers, flit past and are left behind. To-day we enter the
101
tance a couple of hours ago is reached and passed. The
…
and brought down upon himself and all that country-side the swift
102
102 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
and the banks have again become flat and bare, we see to
…
and not only a man, but a saint. Holiest of the holy,
103
every day through summer heat and winter cold for the
…
this distance; but the sailors think him quite beautiful, and
…
they cry. "Fain would we kiss thy hand; but the wind
…
sign of hearing, and in a few minutes the mound on which
104
stones of the new sugar factory close against the mooring-
…
had contained any stone structures whatever, save the
…
then, when the wind swept over them, by swirling clouds
…
spiritualized. The amber sheen of the sand-island in the
105
middle of the river, the sober green of the palm-grove, the
…
by day. The mountains were flushed as if in the light of
…
some thousands of fellaheen at work amid clouds of sand
106
106 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
That we were witnessing a case of forced labor could
…
carried out, unless by means of the corvee? M. About has
107
put an ingenious summary of this "other-side " argument
…
browed, sharply defined mass of dead-white masonry. The
109
the Nurse of Horus, the Egyptian Aphrodite, to whom
…
We were by this time near enough to see that the square
…
ponderous columns, looking down upon the paved floor
111
latest ovals the name and style of Nero, the present build-
…
the edict of The-
…
of all those larger
…
twenty feet of
112
112 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
reproduced in the annexed engraving. Cleopatra is here
…
and portraiture begins in a work of this epoch. AVe can-
…
The fleshiness of the features and the intolerable simper
113
sees the unsightly havoc wrought upon the llathor-headed
…
silence and mystery. A heavy, death-like smell, as of
…
things of life. Looking up to the ceiling, now smoke-
VIII: Thebes and Karnak
121
Coming on deck the third morning after leaving Den-
…
" Neharak-sa'i'd—good-morning—Luxor!" said he, all in
…
allusion to the promised sheep, we could hardly have be-
…
umphantly, pointing in every direction at once. Talhamy
122
122 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
within recognizable distance of the grandest ruins in the
…
The top of another pylon; the slender peak of an obelisk;
…
Luxor is startled from its midday siesta. Then, before the
123
A THOUSAND MILES HP THE NILE.
…
both sides of the river. Its original extent must have been
…
of Copts and Arabs and doing a smart trade in antiquities.
124
colossi, battered and featureless and buried to the chin,
…
the Great. His actual names and titles as they stand upon
125
children screaming for backshish; the dealers exhibiting
…
fast donkey—best donkey in Luxor !"
…
"First-rate donkey! splendid donkey! God save the
…
in Luxor. We were to ride round Karnek this first after-
…
with the Memnonium of Strabo and the tomb of Osymandias as
126
upon the walls of almost every temple built by this mon-
…
slew not with his hand he chased unto the water's edge,
127
So stately was the approach made by Barneses the Great
…
nade to this king and a pylon to that, till it came in time
…
solitary obelisk, those giant heads rising in ghastly resur-
128
128 A. THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
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I observed a kneeling figure of the king, offering a kneel-
131
Ins garments) was profuse in his offers of service. He
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complimentary message on the outer wrapper, such as
…
Luxor the 1st January 1874.
132
132 -4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
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In the afternoon wo took donkeys and rode out to
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the thresholds of two or three dismal dens of cafes in the
…
their foreheads, and plaited all over in innumerable tails.
133
as extensive, apparently, as the ruins of a large town.
…
purpose, rose a thicket of sycamores and palms ; while
…
reached from Luxor to Karnak. Taking into account the
134
134 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
painted; but of which no writing and no art can convey
…
Yet to look is something, if one can but succeed in
135
there—not all at once, as in a picture; but bit by bit, as
…
to measure round the curved lip of that stupendous lily.
136
136 A THOUSAND.MILKS UP THE NILE.
…
feet in height. They could scarcely have looked more
…
of these huge window-frames yet contain the solid stone
…
be repeated, that the great hall at Karnak is the noblest
IX: Thebes to Assuan
140
Hurrying close upon the serenest of Egyptian sunsets
…
The lookout next morning was dismal—the river run-
…
Erment, the Ptolemaic Hermonthis, once the site of a
143
crews bake for the last time before their return to Egypt.
…
reached Bsneb and the market was not yet over. Going
…
cheap bracelets of bone and colored glass; camels lying at
…
against the market-place. AVe looked round in vain, how-
…
The boy, however, ran and thumped upon the gate and
…
The by-standers, as usual, were liberal with their advice;
144
144 A TIIOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
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upon a dozen voices were raised to assure me that the Bir-
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walls; at the farther end of the yard a dilapidated door-
148
148 4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
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tasted. In vain I say "Bismillah" (in the name of God);
…
long fasting and absorbed in my sketch, I forget all about
…
I made Talhamy scold him, by and by, for this piece of
149
able, that one might wear without the fear of breaking
…
" That was because I thought the sitt wanted to buy
…
To this he replied by declaring that he had made the
…
hands. I made them but the other day. By Allah! they
…
"Now in strict truth, 0 dragoman!" he said, with an
150
150 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
To generalize in this way may seem like presumption on
…
The sick who come to you for medicines, the country
…
world in themselves. One man was born a slave, and will
151
spends but half a year on the Nile may, if he takes an in-
…
slowly on our way from Esneh to Edfii. The new bread
…
" You are not on your own deck. The Howadji can
…
were perpetually coming to the surface. We never could
152
brick wall running at right angles to the river; and an
…
And now, with that irrepressible instinct of rivalry that
153
flesh—especially flesh on the Nile—is heir to, wo quickly
…
the night, it is not to be thought of for a moment.
154
154' A THOUSAND MILES TIP THE NILE.
…
and Edfii; and that the good wind is still blowing.
…
Reis Hassan's eyes glisten. No need to call up the
X: Assuan and Elephantine
157
The green Island of Elephantine, which is about a mile
…
A few scattered houses, a line of blank wall, the top of
…
high and dry, and half heeled over, in the sun. Others,
…
has cast anchor over the way at Elephantine. Small row-
158
and are only kept off the landing-plank by means of 'two
…
top-knot of black feathers. The cushion contains two kohl-
…
ubiquitous goblin, and throws every competitor into the
159
For to the Nubian, who grows his own plants and bruises
…
We received our guests with due ceremony in the saloon.
160
1G0 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
Aerated lemonade and cigars were then brought. The
…
animated expression of countenance, while the civilities on
161
The governor, looking very grave, was the first to speak.
…
The governor, the kadi and the mudir shook their heads,
…
Wo endeavored to explain that in making this inquiry
…
The governor saw, and witli the best grace in the world
165
these illegible scrawls, of the importance they were shortly
…
collected on the frontier during the period of Roman rule
…
Not all the inscribed fragments found at Elephantine,
…
distant station, desired, perhaps, to have his Homer laid with him in
166
160 4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
With the exception of a fine fragment of Roman quay
…
they came from the hands of the ostrich-hunters.
167
By far the most amusing sight in Assuan was the traders'
…
Nubians the color of a Barbedienne bronze ; and natives
168
108 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
carved in ebony; Dantes unembittered by the world,
…
care, in fact, never to scale the summit of a camel if they
169
of the desert, and (bearing in mind the probable inferiority
…
short walk, like the rolling of a small boat in a chopping
170
170 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
modestly conscious of our own daring, we prepared to do
…
We mounted and rode away; two imps of darkness fol-
171
rocks of black and red granite profusely inscribed with
…
slopes and to go wandering off, like lost Israelites, into the
…
the under-cutting has never been done and that it is
172
172 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
as at Turra and Silsilis; but the process by which the stone
XI: The cataract and the desert
176
176 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
now deep, now loitering, now hurrrying, here sleeping in
…
dangerous; and to that labyrinth the shellalee, or cataract
177
THE CATARACT AND THE DESERT. 177
…
The Nile here widens to a lake. Of the islands, which
…
placed there to commemorate a date, or to point the way
179
THE CATARACT AND THE DESERT. 179
…
moored for the night in the pool at the top of the first
…
not a man appeared upon the scene. At about midday
…
Our painter therefore undertook to remonstrate with the
180
sheik, and to convince him of the error of his ways. The
…
to keep us three days going up five miles of river, and that
…
But the sheik of the cataract had gone too far. The
…
as to the energy of his style or the vigor of his language.
…
the Rock of Aboosir, nor slake our thirst at the waters of
181
THE (JAT All ACT AND THE DESERT. 181
…
We were never known to make light of the painter's
…
Egypt ends and Nubia begins, the nationality of the races
…
sailors the sulky-looking, half-naked, muscular savages
…
tian conquerors, massing together in one contemptuous
…
come to be included in the brief catalogue of their daily
XII: Philiae
190
100 A THOUSAND MILES, UP THE NIL a.
…
And now we catch glimpses of an inner court, of a
…
which at first sight looked no less perfect than the towers,
…
We enter the inner court — an irregular quadrangle
191
sculptures of Egypt. It may represent one of the two
…
sculptured" on the outer wall of another small chapel
193
This second inscription is cut upon the face of a block
…
In order to have done with this subject, it may be as well to men-
196
196 ■&■ THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
would not surprise us to find the masons here to-morrow
…
but two large convents on the eastern bank a little higher
197
rude Byzantine carvings, the Greek cross is again con-
…
To obtain that permission and perform the pilgrimage to
…
period subsequent to the time of Herodotus and prior to
199
were still in occupation of the island and still celebrating
…
for the last time the tomb of the god was crowned with
200
200 A. THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
in the days of Abbot Theodore and his flock. The little ba-
201
monks installed themselves in that row of cells on the east
…
some solitary height, or a few crosses rudely carved on the
…
verted into 13) the Pilak of the hieroglyphic inscriptions
203
One poor old man—if indeed he still lives—is now the one
…
reliefs. Mysterious passages, pitch-dar.k, thread the thick-
204
But in this temple dedicated not only to Isis, but to the
…
of alien faith, be his rejnite or station what it might; a
…
This roof is an intricate, up-and-down place, and the
205
some part of his body, are variously fashioned. His head,
…
Was originally a local god of Abydos, and that Abydos was the cradle
206
206 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
" The astronomical and physical elements are too obvious to bo
XIII: Philiae to Korosko
211
Sailing gently southward — the river opening wide
…
entirely the population seems to be regulated by the extent
…
■—men laboring by the river side; women with babies
212
212 A TIIO USAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
nothing but the banks of one solitary river in the midst of
…
These golden sand-streams are the newest and most
…
at the foot of one of these largest drifts. The M. B.'s
213
was standing at 80° in the coolest corner of the large
…
Having paused to rest upon an out-cropping ledge of
214
below was already steeped in dusk. The Nile, glimmering
…
the sand, we half ran, half glissaded, and soon readied the
…
to Cairo in a cargo-boat some eighteen months ago. Twice
…
Our men knew nothing of the missing Yusef. Eei's
…
and yellow acacia-tufts, and blue castor-oil berries, and the
215
got in a land where every green blade is precious to the
…
the desert; looking for onyxes and carnelians among the
…
dwarf-palms. Here each hut has its tiny forecourt, in the
…
are not too heavy nor napoleons too light for them. The
216
21G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
for crocodiles. A\re hear of them constantly—see their
…
one of these engaging reptiles dangling from either our
…
the moon is up and less misanthropic folk are in bed and
…
the pylons of Dabdd with their background of desert;
…
for the mouth of a rock-cut tomb in the face of the preci-
XIV: Korosko to Abou Simbel
221
Landing from time to time when the boat was close in
…
Here also, for the first time out of Egypt, we observed
…
just about to turn back when we caught sight of the ducks
222
222 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
yet stereotyped. His sense of beauty still finds expression.
224
224 4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
We landed. Before us lay an open space, at the farther
…
formed to black granite from the waists to the feet and if
…
bought—bent also on finding out the whereabouts of a cer-
…
less from the canteen of some English dahabeeyab, and
225
sign or shadow of moving creature. Only one young
…
an opening between the houses, we saw a great crowd on a
…
exposed to the blaze of the morning sun, they out-
…
wild declamatory chant which the rest echoed. This
…
The actual interment was over by the time we reached
…
The deceased being unmarried, his sister led the choir
226
226 A TIIOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
Her hands and arms were like the hands and arms of a
…
saw none given—the wailing ceased; the women rose; every
227
animated, noisy throng dispersing in a dozen different
…
It chanced that we witnessed many funerals in Kubia;
…
t See the interesting account of funereal rites and ceremonies in
228
228 -4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
Seen from within, however, the place is not without a
…
the king leans while making an offering to Amen Ka, The
229
trunk is given with elaborate truthfulness; and the
…
wall. All had a bowl of baked clay at the head. Wher-
230
230 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
ready to buy; so bringing the whole population, with all
…
leaving about a couple of hundred disconsolate dealers on
231
to trade were readiest to repent of their bargains. Even
…
Iain awake half the night, we olfered a sakkieh-driver a
232
232 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
Certain trees—as for instance the perky little pine of the
…
artist to the present writer ; "fiddlesticks about subjects!
…
Nothing more surprised me at first than the color of the
233
Arabic land is too valuable in Nubia for either the living to
…
be seen in the southern face of the mountain. They are,
…
scarcely worth the trouble of a visit.
…
bends in the river.
…
But the pilot shook his head and added: " Bukra" ("' to-
XV: Ramses the Great
241
RAMESES THE GREAT. 241
…
years ago. It was but the other day, comparatively speak-
…
erect the most gorgeous and costly temples in which man
…
* Since this book was written, a further study of the subject has
244
244 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
European savants than any archaeological event since the
…
This probably is the only title under which it was permissible for
246
246 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
army to attack the confederate princes of Asia Minor then
…
scriptuin est in libra Genesis nunc est comes sed grandis quod nos
…
*See M. Xaville's memoir, entitled "Goshen and the Shrine of
…
f Kadesh, otherwise Katesh or Kades. A town on the Orontes.
247
RAMESES THE GREAT. 247
…
These invaluable letters, written on papyrus in the hie-
…
the Aperiu also appear in the inscription of Thothmes III at Kaniak
249
the quaint writing with which they are covered is as intel-
…
a 1'Histoire de la XIX Dynastie," par F. Chabas. Paris : 1873,
…
d'argent, et le divan des depenses et des recettes avaient leurs in-
250
250 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
an exhaustive catalogue of his known architectural works
…
* The Pa-Kameses of the Bible narrative was not the only Egyp-
251
dentally discovered under the mounds of Tel-el-Yahoodeh,*
…
such length of reign as Rameses II, the great god, in his
252
252 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
extremely probable. The office was one which might well
…
M. Maspero is of opinion that this one fragment establishes tho
XVI: Abou Simbel
258
258 ■&■ THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
under the steep bank, and, without lifting one's head from
…
later come some one sunrise when the ancient charm
259
see the colossi properly. Standing between the rook and
…
bains." (See "Revue Archeologique, vol. ix, A. D. 1864.) In the
260
A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
four years older' than in the previous
…
heads with the accompanying profile
263
gave human form. Consummate masters of effect, they
…
look scarcely inferior in girth to the great columns of Kar-
264
2G4 -4 THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
M. Soldi is also of opinion that the Egyptian sculptors were igno-
265
some of Greek, some of Phoenician origin, tower so high
…
colored, and that the color may have been effaced by the
266
206 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
f An instance occurs, however, in a small inscription sculptured
267
facade of the great temple. Forever descending, drifting,
…
up (a. d. 1813). The top of the doorway was then thirty
269
Varied turns of old Egyptian style upon the architraves
…
desired to leave behind them an imperishable record of the
…
Rameses, this temple was placed, primarily, under the patronage of
…
t It is not often that one can say of a female head in an Egyptian
271
from without, now stumbling along by the light of a bunch
…
m en ted fortress. The besieged, some of whom are trans-
274
274 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
over with tiny chisel marks, which painfully confuse the
…
in different parts of the picture.
…
valuable paper, entitled "The Campaign of Rameses II Against
275
Archillos is left out. The picture, on the contrary,
…
"Hard by their chariots, waiting for the dawn."
276
seem to have been naturalized prisoners of war drafted
…
could barely hold his little torch high enough to enable the
…
it all by heart. The writer went in constantly and at all
277
shadows, one seems to have left the world behind; to have
…
the walls. There were times when I felt I believed in
…
to cave in — above my head. Seized by a sudden
279
of Burckhardt and Belzoni. He received our happy couple
…
nous. As long as the Bagstones stayed, the two crews met
XVII: The Second Cataract
283
THE SECOND CATARACT. 283
…
would become a mere lumbering barge, more suggestive of
…
ably of fiery parentage. One seems to see how, boiling
284
284 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
If Adwa and Adda are one and the same, it is possible that in this
…
absolutely certain from the tenor of a large stela sculptured on the
285
THE SECOND CATARACT. 285
…
rock a few paces north of the smaller temple at Abou Simbel. This
…
Storici," vol. iii, part ii, p. 184. It would hence appear that the Rock
286
286 ■&■ THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
venture to form an opinion from so far off. They are of
…
What did they contain? The Roman ruin close by—the
…
Our pilot leaned forward on the tiller, put his finger to
…
The painter, the idle man, the writer, were all on deck,
287
and not one believed him. They had seen too many of
…
We examined the object through our glasses. We
…
all over with fresh trails and looked as if it had been the
…
A keen and cutting wind carried us along the last
…
]ate of progress they might reasonably hope to reach Cairo
289
THE SECOND CATARACT. 289
…
trees—can doubt which is the more picturesque.
…
tbis is the end of our journey. The cataract—an immense
…
now loitering; here eddying in oily circles; there lying in
290
290 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
attempt it. And I feel now that any endeavor to put the
…
should or should not go as far as the second cataract, I
291
THE SECOND CATARACT. 291
…
Yet for all this, we feel as if we were at only the begin-
…
one visit to the cataract. We saw no crocodiles, though
XVIII: Discoveries at Abou Simbel
295
We came back to find a fleet of dahabeeyahs ranged
…
Here, meanwhile, was our old acquaintance—the Fostat,
…
It was by comparing our watches with those of the
296
29G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
time of ours, that the southern cross was now visible every
…
low a point of view. To say that a constellation is fore-
297
Halfeh, and had remarked how fine the view must be from
…
He stooped—cleared the sand away a little with his hand
298
298 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
All at once it flashed upon the painter that he had seen
…
Feeling sure now that he was on the brink of a discovery
…
And now, more than ever, we felt the need of in^flo-
299
tingnished himself by scooping out a channel where the
…
which it was just possible to catch a dim glimpse of painted
…
The writer wriggled in next. She found herself looking
…
row to the nearest village, there to engage the services of
300
300 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
morning just the same, till midday. Our native con-
…
baskets, and a number of little slips of planking which,
301
iaticy of the color was marred where the men had leaned
…
natural dignity of manner. He was well dressed, too, and
…
must have a "feeder;" as the great men of the middle ages
…
him. lie tasted it, but immediately returned the cup,
…
To amuse him was easy, for he was interested in every-
302
302 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
"God have care of you. I hope you are well. I am
…
A model letter this; brief and to the point.
…
once more had the place to ourselves. So long as they
…
drawing-room of it. The writer copied paintings and
303
merits and surveyed the ground round about, especially
…
for the moment he said nothing, but went on quietly dis-
…
bv the
305
enabled completely to clear the landing, which was curi-
…
lumpy in shape. Finally, the cones being all removed, we
306
306 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
It is not very easy to measure the outer hall in its pres-
…
feet; width, twenty-two and one-half feet: wid.tli of prin-
307
post to which to tie one of the main ropes of his sketching-
…
Scale fi of in l/ic7i.-to it Foot.
…
4. Walls of outer hall or pronaos.
…
7. Torus of pylon.
308
A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILK
…
upon the inner side of the walls of the pronaos. If any-
…
I have now to speak of the decorations of the adytum,
310
the subject to the right, Barneses, wearing the red and
…
f Amen of the blue complexion is the most ancient type of this
…
There were almost as many varieties of Amen in Egypt as there
311
clerful preservation of the surface enabled one to see by
…
through which the black
…
any of these heads of
…
the dictionaries derive from the Arabic al-kimia, may he traced back
312
312 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE.
…
p. 532.) A paragraph in The Academy (June 8, 1870) gives the fol-
313
and papyrus blossoms in elaborate bouquet-holders crown
…
Note.—This inscription roads according to the
…
* "This eye, called uta, was extensively used by the Egyptians
314
314 A THOUSAND MILES VP THE NILE.
…
At the upper end of this wall is depicted a life-size
…
* This inscription was translated for the first edition of this book
…
§ These jubilees, or festivals of thirty years, were religious jubilees
316
316 A THOUSAND MILES DP THE NILE.
…
in either the hieratic or demotic hand. We could dis-
…
reached us), it is impossible even to hazard a guess at the
319
no trace of any altar—no fragment of stone dais or sculpt-
…
endorah there is a chamber especially set apart for the
…
„„ ,ma>"- however, be represented on the north wall, where it is
320
320 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
pass that the place had remained hidden all these ages
…
have wrecked the temple at Wady Halfeh, as it dislocated
XIX: Back Through Nubia
324
Philae; to say nothing of grottoes, tombs and other ruins.
…
fewer. Miss Martineau tells how, in this part of the
…
went over them all. I took notes of them all. I sketched
…
than in these Nubian buildings) the slow deterioration of the
325
places upon which I bestowed hours of delightful labor.
…
Slowly but surely, however, the hard-won miles go by.
326
326 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
never dreamed were crocodiles, have slipped off into the
…
.Bosnian forefathers of three hundred and sixty years ago.
…
saw these unfortunates trotting at the heels of their mis-
…
to cooking. The M. B.'s, it is needless to add, having
327
And now, though the north wind blows persistently, it
…
cannot be too strongly reprehended. Year by year, the
…
The thermometer stands at 85° in the saloon of the
328
tottering in its pliice. In all tins we fancy we recognize
…
crested polls and chattering disparagingly, like a couple of
329
on the bank one morning, scornfully watching all that was
…
only stand like that for half an hour. The manner of her
331
It would rain even now in Nubia if it could. That
…
high altitude by radiated heat from the desert. This, with
…
''One day's march in the hagar" (" desert ").
…
howadji, traveling alone and on foot, had once gone in
…
"Itwas a long time ago/' said the man with the beads.
332
Nile, instead of flowing for a distance of twelve hundred
…
To those who have a south breeze behind them the tem-
…
dance, shout, ship their legs and clap their hands in our
333
which to date the building, we looked in vain.*
…
Night, and resume her labor in the morning.f
…
leased on notes by the late Rev. C. Johns) read before the Winchester
334
334 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
* See chap, x, p. 163. Dakkeh (the Pselcis of the Greeks and
335
we have seen. It is probably very, very old; as old as the
…
At Kobban also was found the famous stela of Barneses II, called
…
Contra Pselcis must be the same town."—" Topography of Thebes,"
…
tor they carried large shields 'made 'of raw hides, and hatchets for
336
3BC A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
All within these bounds is a wilderness of ruin. The
…
the insurgents fled may have been the large sand island which hero
338
ago. We see immense flights of black and white cranes
…
One morning early, we see a bride taken across the river
…
About this time, also, we see one night a wild sort of
…
ous as the darkness deepens. By and by, when we are
…
and whirling every now and then through the air, like
339
osiride colossi, which stand twenty feet high without the
…
while those of the avenue outside have distinctly Ethiopian
…
matters not that these delicately wrought bas-reliefs are of
342
3-13 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
I trusted them; because they are a people of good faith.
…
The historical value of this inscription is very great. It
…
face to the wall. The mud dwellings here are built in and
…
| Blemyes: The Blemeys were a nomadic race of Berbers, supposed
343
which mode of construction was adopted in order to offer
…
we arrive next morning. As the mason's work at Tafah is
…
been effected by human means without the aid of power-
…
At Tafah there are two little temples; one in picturesque
…
lu monastery and the villages were, doubtless, of Roniano-
344
344 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
This same native, having sold a necklace to the idle man
…
a wild manual exercise with his spear ; then sits down in
…
thrown down his gantlet in form and demands trial by
345
evidence of the sincerity of the religious sentiment in the
…
the head wind is always against us and the men's bread is
…
remaining tins of preserved meat to feed fifteen men for
…
^e troubled and not to do what little we can for the
…
Gertiissce and then push on for Dabod. The limestone
346
346 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
IE transported to Dab6d on that magic carpet of the
…
that same village at the foot of the beautiful sand-drift,
…
flour. Old Ali, Riskalli and Miisa, whose homes lie in the
347
happy. So the painter pitches his tent on the top of the
…
lot us hope—an ill-directed ambition foiled of crocodiles!
…
Our scanty crew, armed with sticks, flew at once to the
348
The next moment he was surrounded, overpowered, had
…
a private war on our hands, no captain, and one of our
…
waited the event. Talhamy's back being toward the river,
…
was made. Talhamy returned. The villagers crowded
349
Presently—after perhaps a quarter of an hour—the gun
…
fhe bundle being undone, a little brown imp of about
…
to do with it; that the matter, in short, was in the hands
…
Summoned next morning to give evidence, the idle man
XX: Silsilis and Edfu
354
the top of the stairs loading to the upper deck. Six men
…
The sheik, however, gives the word — his second echoes
355
cataract. His momentary flash of energy over, he slouches
…
We had fancied till now that the cataract Arabs for
…
and between such rocks as the shellalee Arabs took the
…
We plunged back at once into the midst of a fertile and pop-
356
350 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE.
…
with garments tightly tucked up and just their feet in the
…
as Denderah—perhaps larger; for, being on the same grand
…
accomplished the main object of his journey, he was glad
357
being acquaintances of old, the matter was soon settled.
…
I'he Arabs here show a rock fantastically quarried in the
358
355 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
\ See " Sallier Papyrus No. 2." Hymn to the Kile—translation by
359
goddess named Ta-nr-t,* represented in one of the side
…
receiving the homage of Queen Nefertari, who advances
…
w'th an offering of two sistrums. As a hippopotamus
…
°cc»pies a prominent place in the facade of the Mammisi.
…
j. 1 n the Heavens, this goddess personified the constellation Trsa
361
whitish, or brownish, or traversed by veins of violet, it has
…
quarrying, our rough-and-ready blasting looks like the
…
gether these unfortunates had been obliged to encamp in
…
hours. . All this time the Nile was driving up against the
362
such a morning as one never knows in Nubia, where the
…
Ten years ago nothing was visible of the great Temple
…
That wall has not yet been built; but the encroaching
363
mound has been cut clean away all round the building,
…
the same time the pylons, covered with gigantic sculptures,
…
Who enters that gate crosses the threshold of the past,
364
twenty-five feet in height; that the first court-yard meas-
…
ples. They belong to the same period. They are built
…
* Edfu is the elder temple; Denderah the copy. Where the
365
tlio poem of Pentaur. Those went out with the Pharaohs
…
the depths of the Edfu mine'and brings back as much
366
3G6 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
all these visits; and if the gods, like modern emperors, had
…
served them in the temples; who robed and unrobed them;
…
1888, for an account of how the statues of Isis and other deities were
XXI: Thebes
371
salesmen the Arabs are perhaps the less dishonest. Both
…
carvings in old sycamore wood, their porcelain statuettes,
…
oeeyah, as I have just shown, is beset from the moment
372
tion being prohibited, the digger lives in dread of being
…
that it had been abolished, wo went to a certain house in
…
Meanwhile we waited, expecting to be ushered into the
…
politeness and his desire to get rid of us, he bowed us out
373
governor's house, and lie immediately vanished round the
…
With the hands crossed upon the breast. Both hands and
375
It was a hot climb ; the sun blazing overhead ; the cliii's
…
As a child " The Manners and Customs of the Ancient
…
these kindly brown people years and years ago—perhaps in
…
* marvel that they have not yet finished polishing the Bur-
…
often an imaginary guest! Is the feast not yet over? Has
376
376 A- THOUSAND MILKS UP THE MILE.
…
the right figure. These people lived in the time of the
…
We had luncheon that morning, I remember, with the
377
going to and fro—the brown and battered Arabs, squatting
…
Ultramarine—the patient donkeys munching all together at
…
there; going over the ground bit by bit, and comparing
378
3?8 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
the sky; thence, passing through a chamber lined with
…
xviii, of the present work; p. 319.
379
chariot, sends arrow after arrow against the flying foe.
…
Must have lifted his head some ten feet higher still. " The
…
we must add the height of the crown, which would proportionately
…
ninety-two feet, high. This was, so far as is known, the largest
…
etrie at about nine hundred tons; t. e., one hundred tons mure than the
380
inches in length. The foot of the fallen Eameses measures
…
doubts for a moment that this statue was one of the won-
…
thrown, are problems upon which a great deal of ingenious
381
the way in winch this color was applied, one would say that
…
tun,Seec'",'ood"cut:NTo- 340 in SirG. Wilkinson's "Manners and Cus-
382
hopeless as the description of Karnak. Such an attempt
…
coming monotonous. In the present instance, therefore, I
…
strike the eye as a new and interesting feature. They are,
383
As biographical material, the temple ami pavilion at
…
aft" I others in a tomb behind Medinet Habu. Purchased soon
…
arch !""s; historical speech and conclusion. Throughout the mon-
…
annals a|!11''S('K HI was one of the most remarkable monarchs in the
384
384 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
It is, at all events, a fact that the only building which
…
a fortified gate; but, though the chambers are small, they
385
tower. The lodges and tower stand to each other as the
…
buil v " e reason to believe that tliis is only a fragment of the
…
s'ng as it is unlike our usual conceptions of Egyptian art."—
388
of a religious and military character. The king, as usual,
…
been previously noticed).that while the Asiatic and African chiefs
391
The writer pitched her tent in the doorway of the first
…
°kl fellow, miserably poor and tattered; but he had the
…
a few confused foundations, and—last representatives of
…
less faces, their attitude, their surroundings, are familiar as the pyn\.
392
terraces up the mountain side, and approached once upon
…
represent Amenhotep, or Amnnoph 111; and that the northernmost
393
whoso names figure in the shrines of the Ramessides at
…
stands his Queen Tuaa, the mother of Rameses II. Else-
…
family likeness. All more or less partake of that Dautesque
394
394 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
have his train of priests, his daily liturgies, processions,
395
two kings, and served most likely by a twofold college of
…
they lose one of the most interesting rides in the neighbor-
…
°"e morning about an hour after daybreak, crossing the river
…
t -I here is a very curious window at the end of this sanctuary, with
396
bank, with the Nile on the one hand, and the corn-lands
…
ceived by that fairy water. We know now that it is the
397
We now leave behind us the well, and the trees, and the
…
one enters the mouth of the valley, and take strange
399
dreaming away its long term of solitary waiting, might
…
half-demon. Huge serpents writhe beside us along the
400
A THOUSAND MILES UP 'THE NILE.
…
Elsewhere we come upon scenes less painful. The sun
…
form, erect, with one foot advanced, as if walking, the right hand
401
drink a long draught of pure air. cross a few yards of
…
hy momentary wakings. These tombs in a general way
402
402 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
Still Eameses III seems to have had a grand idea of
…
*When first seen by Sir G. Wilkinson, these harpers were still in
403
another in No. 9 (Barneses VI); the first, a grand mono-
…
I aris and Ohalon, 1870), gives a list of royal tombs inspected by an
404
404 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
are familiar to even those who have not seen them in the Boulak
405
their dark palaces magnificently equipped for the life to
…
T " King Khampsinitus (Barneses III) was possessed, they said, of
406
40G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
on sandals and scented vestments, and take his staff in his
…
lorn through these desolate halls when all is silent and the
…
of the pleasures of the chase. The game it is true was pro-
…
prayers, of even offerings and small sacrifices, were distributed over
407
secrecy about certain of the Arabs, and a conscious look
…
on board. Now, neither L----- nor the writer desired to
408
were the M. 13.'s. They bought both mummy and papyrus
…
at all events, of fifteen mummies successfully insinuated
409
We asked if it was just like this when the sitteh lived
…
J-'he sun was near setting. AVe could distinguish the
…
son, among the tombs of Sheik Abd-el-Koorneh. Here he
410
410 A THOUSAND MILkS UP THE NILE.
…
were in waiting; the one with a brass basin and ewer, the
…
So we drank Nile water ; and for the first time in our
411
KebobsJ of mutton. Kebobs of lambs' kidneys.
…
PilaffI of rice.
…
t Pall: roast shoulder of lamb.
…
** Kunafah: a rich pudding made of rice, almonds, cream, cinna-
413
always do wind up at Luxor, with a performance of
…
bounding every now and then down the whole length
…
we had already heard many times and of whose skill we
…
sisted of plaintive airs and extemporized variations, embroi-
…
delight in his own music. At such times one could see
…
, . The kemengeh is a kind of small two-stringed fiddle, the body of
415
l'obed deacon, who stood reading at the reading desk with
…
AVe now observed with some surprise that every word of
418
418 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
The idle man hereupon suggested that it seemed to him,
…
The bishop, though perfectly right in stating that Coptic and
XXII: Abydus and Cairo
422
wonderfully changed since we first passed this way. The
…
divide the river for a mile or more at a stretch. Rei's
…
channel, and sometimes we get an hour or two of sweet
…
donkey-ride that day in the sun. The writer, however,
423
temple; which, seen amid the ripening splendor of miles
…
Two or three days later we came within reach of
…
teeth like a dog. The idle man's, bent on flattening its
425
on the sheaves, feeding unmolested in the very midst of
…
the houses, noticing here a sculptured block built into a
…
of profound historical interest. At a time so remote that
426
42G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
village actuel de Aoulad-Yahia." Letter of Prof. G. Maspero to the
428
428 A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
piers, columns, halls, and passages, and all the seven sanc-
…
p. G2. Alex. 1872. There is at the upper end of each of these seven
429
There is so far a family resemblance between temples of
…
can now remember, are thus depicted. The royal offer-
…
tor niches. There is a precisely similar recess sculptured on one of
430
430 A THOUSAND MILKS UP THE NILE.
…
the guide came to warn us of approaching evening. We
…
were probably either princes born of families originally from Abydus,
…
Arch.," vol. vii. " Nouvelle Serle," p. 98. This volume of the
432
432 A THOUSAND MlLBS UP THE NILE.
…
Next morning early we once again passed Girgeh, with
…
to whom we carried letters of introduction. Ratab Aga
433
or so of pigeon-towers, an extensive garden, stabling, exer-
…
The Aga's brother and nephews put them through their
434
while from the back of the head there hung a veil of thin
…
little court-yard was given up to the poultry; their tiny
435
were surrounded on all sides by houses. Yet in this stifling
…
pable even of curiosity.
…
time the navigation of the Kile became every day more
…
generally a case of sunstroke on her hands. One by one,
…
we felt lost at first in the big rooms at Shepheard's hotel,
436
43G A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
* " It is said that these persons, as well as the sheik, make use of
437
away in convulsions, who looked as if they would never
…
It is difficult to say but a few inadequate words of a place
…
for the first time since ever " mummy was sold for bal-
…
* This barbarous rite has been abolished by the present khedive.
438
43S A THOUSAND MILES UP THE NILE.
…
f There is no evidence to show that the statues of Sepa and Nesa
439
Ghawiizi. The eyes of both statues are inserted. The
…
Of tlie heads of these two statues Professor Owen remarks that
442
" You should add the other half of the proverb, amici,"
…
they did not cut steps in the blocks, so as to make the as-
…
the top; then, finding we were English, shouted " God
…
most touch it by putting out my hand. Every detail of
443
slabs, like the roofing-stones of the temples. "We see how
…
anterieur an Rois Cheops de la IV Dynastie."—"Die. d'Arch. Egypti-
Appendix
448
of the greater gods or else attendants upon them. Most of the gods
…
5, Seb; G, Osiris; 7, Set and Nephthys; 8, Horus and Athor. The
449
Ha; liis right hand uplifted, holding the flail. The god of produc-
…
like a jackal, the body of an ass, and an upright tail, like the tail of
…
crowned with the crown of Lower Egypt. She presided over war and
450
THE RELIGIOUS BELIEF OF TIIE EGYPTIANS.
…
itself to many interpretations of a contradictory nature, none of
451
one who exists by essence; the one sole life of all substance; the one
…
" Unfortunately, the more we study the religion of ancient Egypt
…
came the foundation of the religion. It is the sun himself whom we
452
" In tlie course of ages, the sense of the religion became obscured.
…
"The chronology of Egypt has been a disputed point for cent-
Verlagsinformation
455
OF THE
456
The Essays or Counsels Civil and Moral of Francis Bacon.
…
As a whole the book is full of quiet sarcasm and severe rebuke. It is replete
…
Like Huxley and Tyndall, Mr. Proctor sees the poetry of his subject and
…
scene himself, listening to the counsels of the generals, hearing the tread of
…
The Essays of Elia have been characterized as the " finest things for humor,
…
to him more than to any man of his time belongs the glory of having taught
…
For sale by all Booksellers, or will be sent post-paid on receipt of price, by the pub'
457
His (Carlyle's) bidding is to do the allotted work of life silently and bravely,
…
from the author's edition, unaltered and unabridged. Portrait.
…
Great purity, sustained reflection, wealth of illustration and allusion, vivid
…
As a great and fearless leader of thought and antagonistic to many features
…
For sale by all Booksellers, or will be sent post-paid on receipt of price, by the pub-
458
Hurt's fgywij of tftt ggytgg j*gj jwb.
…
not cause it to grow trite, but ever the more strongly to lay hold on the soul
…
The plot is well developed, the characters are vigorously drawn, and the
…
one of the greatest minds of this century. . . . Romola, which is one of
…
For sale bij all Booksellers, or will be sent post-paid on receipt of price, by the pub-
459
The book is from the pen of one who combines a careful study of life with a
…
lated from the German by F. E. Burnett. Portrait. 12mo, cloth,
…
Undine has become a household book for old and young in Germany, and
460
jjmf0 jitowij of tixt Wmm IM Hwfo
…
11 Westward Ho! " is one of the most vigorous, powerful, and fascinating of
…
themselves. It teaches them that the humblest person who sets before his fel-
…
Eyre." This was doubtless due in part to the freshness and vigor of mind it
…
For sale by all Booksellers, oi' will be sent post-paid on receipt of price, by the pub-
Maßstab/Farbkeil
136 A THOUSAND.MILKS UP THE NILE.
one end a, flame-like obelisk ; at the other, a solitary palm
against a background of glowing mountain. To right, to
left, showing transversely through long files of columns,
we catch glimpses of colossal bas-reliefs lining the roofless
walls in every direction. The king, as usual, figures in
every group, and performs the customary acts of worship.
The gods receive and approve him. Half in light, half in
shadow, these slender, fantastic forms stand out sharp and
clear and colorless ; each figure some eighteen or twenty
feet in height. They could scarcely have looked more
weird when the great roof was in its place and perpetual
twilight reigned. But it is difficult to imagine the roof
on and the sky shut out. It all looks right as it is; and
one feels, somehow, that such columns should have noth-
ing between them and the infinite blue depths of heaven.
The great central avenue was, however, sufficiently
lighted by means of a double row of clerestory windows,
some of which are yet standing. Certain writers have
suggested that they may have been glazed; but this seems
improbable for two reasons. Firstly, because one or two
of these huge window-frames yet contain the solid stone
gratings which in the present instance seem to have done
duty for a translucent material; and, secondly, because we
have no evidence to show that the early Egyptians, though
familiar since the days of Cheops with the use of the blow-
pipe, ever made glass in sheets, or introduced it in this
way into their buildings.
How often has it been written, and how often must it
be repeated, that the great hall at Karnak is the noblest
architectural work ever designed and executed by human
hands ? One writer tells us that it covers four times the
area occupied by the cathedral of JSiotre Dame in Paris.
Another measures it against St. Peter's. All admit their
inability to describe it; yet all attempt the description.
To convey a concrete image of the place to one who has
not seen it, is, however, as I have already said, impossible.
If it could be likened to this place or that, the task would
not be so difficult; but there is, in truth, no building in
the wide world to compare with it. The pyramids are
more stupendous. The colosseum covers more ground.
The parthenon is more beautiful. Yet in nobility of con-
ception, in vastness of detail, in majesty of the highest
order, the hall of pillars exceeds them every one. This
one end a, flame-like obelisk ; at the other, a solitary palm
against a background of glowing mountain. To right, to
left, showing transversely through long files of columns,
we catch glimpses of colossal bas-reliefs lining the roofless
walls in every direction. The king, as usual, figures in
every group, and performs the customary acts of worship.
The gods receive and approve him. Half in light, half in
shadow, these slender, fantastic forms stand out sharp and
clear and colorless ; each figure some eighteen or twenty
feet in height. They could scarcely have looked more
weird when the great roof was in its place and perpetual
twilight reigned. But it is difficult to imagine the roof
on and the sky shut out. It all looks right as it is; and
one feels, somehow, that such columns should have noth-
ing between them and the infinite blue depths of heaven.
The great central avenue was, however, sufficiently
lighted by means of a double row of clerestory windows,
some of which are yet standing. Certain writers have
suggested that they may have been glazed; but this seems
improbable for two reasons. Firstly, because one or two
of these huge window-frames yet contain the solid stone
gratings which in the present instance seem to have done
duty for a translucent material; and, secondly, because we
have no evidence to show that the early Egyptians, though
familiar since the days of Cheops with the use of the blow-
pipe, ever made glass in sheets, or introduced it in this
way into their buildings.
How often has it been written, and how often must it
be repeated, that the great hall at Karnak is the noblest
architectural work ever designed and executed by human
hands ? One writer tells us that it covers four times the
area occupied by the cathedral of JSiotre Dame in Paris.
Another measures it against St. Peter's. All admit their
inability to describe it; yet all attempt the description.
To convey a concrete image of the place to one who has
not seen it, is, however, as I have already said, impossible.
If it could be likened to this place or that, the task would
not be so difficult; but there is, in truth, no building in
the wide world to compare with it. The pyramids are
more stupendous. The colosseum covers more ground.
The parthenon is more beautiful. Yet in nobility of con-
ception, in vastness of detail, in majesty of the highest
order, the hall of pillars exceeds them every one. This