THE CATARACT AND THE DESERT. 179

water-dogs, bobbing like corks, and making as much show
of energy as if they were going to haul us up Niagara.
The thing was evidently a coup de theatre, like the appari-
tion of Clan Alpine's warriors in the Donna del Lago—with
backshish in the background. The scene that followed
was curious enough. Two ropes were carried from the
dahabeeyah to the nearest island, and there made fast to
the rocks. Two ropes from the island were also brought
on board the dahabeeyah. A double file of men on deck,
and another double file on shore, then ranged themselves
along the roi)es; the sheik gave the signal; and, to a wild
chanting accompaniment and a movement like a barbaric
Sir Koger de Coverley dance, a system of double hauling
began, by means of which the huge boat slowly and
steadily ascended. AVo may have been a quarter of an
hour going up the incline; though it seemed much longer.
Meanwhile, as they warmed to their work, the men chanted
louder and pulled harder, till the boat went in at last with
a rush, and swung over into a pool of comparatively
smooth water.

Having moored hero for an hour's rest, we next repeated
the performance against a still stronger current a little
higher up. This time, however, a rope broke. Down
went the haulers, like a row of cards suddenly tipped
over—round swung the Philffi, receiving the whole rush of
the curreut on her beam! Luckily for us, the other rope
held fast against the strain. Had it also broken, we must
have been wrecked then and there ignominiously.

Our Nubian auxiliaries struck wrork after this. Fate,
they said, was adverse; so they went home, leaving us
moored for the night in the pool at the top of the first
rapid. The sheik promised, however, that his people
should begin work next morning at dawn, and get us
through before sunset. Next morning came, however, and
not a man appeared upon the scene. At about midday
they began dropjiing in, a few at a time; hung about in a
languid, lazy way for a coujile of hours or so; moved us
into a better position for attacking the next rapid; and
then melted away mysteriously by twos and threes among
the rocks, and were no more seen.

"We now felt that our time and money were being reck-
lessly squandered, and wo resolved to bear it no longer.
Our painter therefore undertook to remonstrate with the