76

CLASSICAL TOUR Ch. HL

been the subject of many contests and intrigues,
at length it passed under the peaceful domina-
tion of the Roman Pontiff.

Beneventum stands on a gentle elevation, at
the foot of a bold ridge of hills on one side, with
an open swelling country on the other. Its
northern walls are bathed by the Calore, still
proud of its ancient name. A lofty bridge
crosses this river, and gives a very pleasing
view of its banks lined with poplars and bor-
dered by meadows and gardens. One of the
gates is a triumphal arch of Trajan; it consists
of a single arch, is of Parian marble and entire,
with the exception of a part of the cornice. Both
its sides are adorned with four Corinthian pillars
raised on high pedestals. Its frieze, pannels,
and indeed every part both without and within
the arch, are covered with rich sculpture repre-
senting some of the achievements of the Emperor
in whose honor it was erected. This triumphal
arch is by many considered as the most perfect
of the kind existing; in that light it did not
appear to me. The decorations though all of
the best and purest style, are yet so compressed
and crowded together as to leave no vacant
space for the eye to rest on, no plane to contrast
with the relievo and set it off to advantage; they
seem consequently to encumber the edifice, and