DOI Kapitel:
Chapter I: Naples
DOI Seite / Zitierlink:https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.59000#0052
Naples
gardens, jutting corners, and quaintly constructed arches
and stairs, broke the line of the narrow streets, are now
seen rows of high modern buildings. Electric trams
run through the streets, and much of the local colour is
gradually retreating to the older quarters of the town.
In the last ten years this inevitable change has been
creeping into all the smaller towns from Naples to
Castellamare. Soon there will be a tramway along one
of the most beautiful drives in the world—from
Castellamare to Sorrento.
Hand in hand with progress we find curiously
obsolete customs. In hired vehicles the horses are not
driven with a bit. A small bar is fixed over the nose,
and the rein is attached to it. This custom, however
provincial it may appear, seems to give excellent results.
The horse is quite under the control of the driver, and
can drink with ease. I have often asked myself whether
this primitive system may not have some advantage.
The natives’ general love of display is vividly seen in
the trappings of their horses. What must be intended
as an ornament, a thing like an enormous duster, is
attached to the animal’s head. The tinkling of many
bells relieves the monotony of the poor beast’s life,
and the cracking of whips no doubt relieves it more.
The decoration of the mules is still yet more bizarre.
On the back of the animal—and again for apparently
decorative effect,—rises an enormous brass column, sur-
mounted by a tuft of fur and adorned with brass nails.
Between the ears and over the nose hangs a mass of soft
light fur and red tassels. I know of no instance in
i5
gardens, jutting corners, and quaintly constructed arches
and stairs, broke the line of the narrow streets, are now
seen rows of high modern buildings. Electric trams
run through the streets, and much of the local colour is
gradually retreating to the older quarters of the town.
In the last ten years this inevitable change has been
creeping into all the smaller towns from Naples to
Castellamare. Soon there will be a tramway along one
of the most beautiful drives in the world—from
Castellamare to Sorrento.
Hand in hand with progress we find curiously
obsolete customs. In hired vehicles the horses are not
driven with a bit. A small bar is fixed over the nose,
and the rein is attached to it. This custom, however
provincial it may appear, seems to give excellent results.
The horse is quite under the control of the driver, and
can drink with ease. I have often asked myself whether
this primitive system may not have some advantage.
The natives’ general love of display is vividly seen in
the trappings of their horses. What must be intended
as an ornament, a thing like an enormous duster, is
attached to the animal’s head. The tinkling of many
bells relieves the monotony of the poor beast’s life,
and the cracking of whips no doubt relieves it more.
The decoration of the mules is still yet more bizarre.
On the back of the animal—and again for apparently
decorative effect,—rises an enormous brass column, sur-
mounted by a tuft of fur and adorned with brass nails.
Between the ears and over the nose hangs a mass of soft
light fur and red tassels. I know of no instance in
i5