DOI chapter:
Chapter II: Naples - The Museum - Capo di Monte
DOI Page / Citation link:https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.59000#0089
Napl es—The Museum—Capo di Monte
Salle in Italy, containing all the original volumes of the
Bourbon collection, and having its stupendous ceiling
frescoed with the portraits of the Royal family. Some
time ago this ceiling threatened to fall, and for upwards
of ten years the hall had to be closed, until the other day
the Government finally decided to dole out the necessary
funds for its restoration, since the ceiling itself refused
to collapse, and so settle the question.
Naples is rich in collections of great value. Not far
from the Museum stands the splendid Palazzo Filan-
gieri, containing an exquisitely arranged collection of
historic objects, chiefly of the Bourbon period. The
Museum itself is, I believe, the oldest thirteenth-century
building in Naples, and when it was about to be pulled
down to make way for the new street and tram-line
Prince Filangieri, at his own expense, removed it brick
by brick from one side of the road to the other. It is
kept very differently from the Museo Nazionale, and is
like a carefully inhabited palace, contrasting with the
neglected squalor of many an interior laden with
valuables in Naples. The old guardian, who sits in his
tiny cubicle, and in the winter months roasts small
scented apples over his scaldino, often unconsciously
perfumes the lofty rooms with their sweet aroma.
Outside the Museum we find our eager vetturino
on the look-out for us, and screaming and cracking of
whips bring us rudely down from dreams of other days.
I wonder whether the Pompeiian drivers used such
expressive language to their horses as do the Neapolitan
drivers of to-day ! Or were the noble chariot steeds
37
Salle in Italy, containing all the original volumes of the
Bourbon collection, and having its stupendous ceiling
frescoed with the portraits of the Royal family. Some
time ago this ceiling threatened to fall, and for upwards
of ten years the hall had to be closed, until the other day
the Government finally decided to dole out the necessary
funds for its restoration, since the ceiling itself refused
to collapse, and so settle the question.
Naples is rich in collections of great value. Not far
from the Museum stands the splendid Palazzo Filan-
gieri, containing an exquisitely arranged collection of
historic objects, chiefly of the Bourbon period. The
Museum itself is, I believe, the oldest thirteenth-century
building in Naples, and when it was about to be pulled
down to make way for the new street and tram-line
Prince Filangieri, at his own expense, removed it brick
by brick from one side of the road to the other. It is
kept very differently from the Museo Nazionale, and is
like a carefully inhabited palace, contrasting with the
neglected squalor of many an interior laden with
valuables in Naples. The old guardian, who sits in his
tiny cubicle, and in the winter months roasts small
scented apples over his scaldino, often unconsciously
perfumes the lofty rooms with their sweet aroma.
Outside the Museum we find our eager vetturino
on the look-out for us, and screaming and cracking of
whips bring us rudely down from dreams of other days.
I wonder whether the Pompeiian drivers used such
expressive language to their horses as do the Neapolitan
drivers of to-day ! Or were the noble chariot steeds
37