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Naples
anything to do with the past century’s steady destruc-
tion of parks in and about Naples, I know not; but
certainly the city, which was once a series of vast
gardens reaching from S. Elmo down to the shore,
cannot now boast of a single fine park. Turning
from the Via Lucia to the sea, we reach the narrow
and stunted Villa—as the public gardens are called,
with a lingering tradition of Roman days. It is
all that remains of the thick and beautiful wood
up to the verge of which the waves washed. Near
it a great rock rose from the sea, known as the
“ Scuoglio di Messer Leonardo,” of which the old
song says :
“ O, how often towards the fall of evening
Together with thoughtless comrades did we go,
Above the rock of Messer Leonardo
To feast upon the cockles from below.” 1
In the garden stands the beautiful Aquarium, the
only quiet spot amid the terrific noise of Naples. It
was founded some thirty years ago by Anton Dorhn,
who won lasting honour by his splendid work, and
the institution is supported by the joint contributions of
several governments. It is a distinctly cosmopolitan
school. All the exquisite contents of the tanks come
from the Bay of Naples itself, and it is said that many
1 “ O, quante vota, la sera, a lu tardo
Le ’vemo a spasso cu tanta zetelle
’Ncopp’ a li scuoglio de messe Lunardo
E la faciamo spuonele e patelie.”

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