Fitzgerald, Sybil; Fitzgerald, Augustine [Ill.]: Naples (London: Adam & Charles Black, 1904)

CHAPTER VI

FROM NAPLES TO CASTELLAMARE
One hot day early in June we drove from Naples to
Castellamare. The heat and the dust seemed to be more
bearable in an open carriage than in the hot compart-
ment of the railway train. It is wiser, too, not to trust
implicitly in this oldest train service in Italy. It should
be treated as an interesting but antique relic of the days
of Ferdinand II., who opened the line by travelling
with the Queen in a splendid royal car lined with red
damask and uncovered. The last time we travelled on
this line the engine broke down completely, and, unlike
the proverbial three-legged horse of Naples, had to be
tugged instead of driven to its goal.
In spite of jolting roads and indescribable noise, the
kaleidoscopic scenery of the towns on the way is rich
in human interest and variety. On this particular day the
Festa of Monte Vergine was drawing to a close, and
hundreds and hundreds of pilgrim-laden carriages-
victorias, bagarini, brakes, and char-a-bancs—tore past
us at an inconceivable rate. Most of the drivers were
running races regardlessly of any one’s safety, lashing
ioi