In 1817 Wid 1818.
115
Asia, of the vale of Caracoula, and of the groves of Buyuc-
dere"!
I met with a very friendly reception from the Marquis, as
well as from his lady. I was not a stranger to his noble qua-
lities; but I discovered in him daily the most exalted virtues,
combined with a truly captivating frankness of manners.—
Another Ambassador, the Russian, M. de Stroganoff, maintains
all the dignity of his state at Buyucdere, winch he inhabits
throughout the year.
The plague had a little time before found its way into the
corps diplomatique, and had been fatal to tlic- son of the Aus-
trian Internuncio. The family, in despair, withdrew to the
distance of two leagues from Constantinople. Having been
abandoned by their domestics, they had there to encounter
every privation; but such was their dread of the formidable
scourge which had brought this affliction on them, that not
any persuasive could prevail on them to return, until after a
lapse of two months, during which tliey were condemned to a
lonely solitude, without one companion to distract their grief.
On the smallest symptom being manifested, on the slightest
complaint, every one flees the object of the attack. He falls :
his heart receives a deadly blow from the cruelly insulated
state in which he finds himself, before the delirium of the
fever makes him insensible to the horror of his position. His
parched lips are tremblingly glued to the jug of -water which
affrighted pity had placed at a distance from him; but the
thirst which consumes him is not to be quenched. It often
happens that the convulsive dreams of the individual attacked
by the plague are realized: the quarter he inhabits is consumed
by fire. "The destructive scourge reaches the house which the
other inmates have deserted. The flames spread to the bed of
sickness ; and the poor helpless wretch finds an end of bis ter-
rible agonies in a gulf of fire.
A conflagration is the only right of petition the Turks enjoy I
it makes known to the government the prevailing discontents
of the people of Constantinople; and has of late years been
employed by the janissaries hi the most frequent and deplo-
rable manner.
In this extraordinary city I saw palaces of a most elegant
structure, magic fountains, dirty and narrow streets, hideous
hovels, and fine trees. I visited the Sandal-bezestan, and the
Culchilar-bezestan, where the furs are sold. Wherever I
passed, the Turk elbowed me, the Jew made me an obsequious
bow, the Greek smiled on me, the Armenian tried to cheat me,
the dogs followed me, and the pigeons alighted confidently on
my shoulder : lastly, while some were in the agonies of death,
115
Asia, of the vale of Caracoula, and of the groves of Buyuc-
dere"!
I met with a very friendly reception from the Marquis, as
well as from his lady. I was not a stranger to his noble qua-
lities; but I discovered in him daily the most exalted virtues,
combined with a truly captivating frankness of manners.—
Another Ambassador, the Russian, M. de Stroganoff, maintains
all the dignity of his state at Buyucdere, winch he inhabits
throughout the year.
The plague had a little time before found its way into the
corps diplomatique, and had been fatal to tlic- son of the Aus-
trian Internuncio. The family, in despair, withdrew to the
distance of two leagues from Constantinople. Having been
abandoned by their domestics, they had there to encounter
every privation; but such was their dread of the formidable
scourge which had brought this affliction on them, that not
any persuasive could prevail on them to return, until after a
lapse of two months, during which tliey were condemned to a
lonely solitude, without one companion to distract their grief.
On the smallest symptom being manifested, on the slightest
complaint, every one flees the object of the attack. He falls :
his heart receives a deadly blow from the cruelly insulated
state in which he finds himself, before the delirium of the
fever makes him insensible to the horror of his position. His
parched lips are tremblingly glued to the jug of -water which
affrighted pity had placed at a distance from him; but the
thirst which consumes him is not to be quenched. It often
happens that the convulsive dreams of the individual attacked
by the plague are realized: the quarter he inhabits is consumed
by fire. "The destructive scourge reaches the house which the
other inmates have deserted. The flames spread to the bed of
sickness ; and the poor helpless wretch finds an end of bis ter-
rible agonies in a gulf of fire.
A conflagration is the only right of petition the Turks enjoy I
it makes known to the government the prevailing discontents
of the people of Constantinople; and has of late years been
employed by the janissaries hi the most frequent and deplo-
rable manner.
In this extraordinary city I saw palaces of a most elegant
structure, magic fountains, dirty and narrow streets, hideous
hovels, and fine trees. I visited the Sandal-bezestan, and the
Culchilar-bezestan, where the furs are sold. Wherever I
passed, the Turk elbowed me, the Jew made me an obsequious
bow, the Greek smiled on me, the Armenian tried to cheat me,
the dogs followed me, and the pigeons alighted confidently on
my shoulder : lastly, while some were in the agonies of death,