120 Travels in Greece, Turkey, and the Holy Land,
stants we crossed the plain of Develikeuil, and the valley of
Palamon-Deressi. The cavalcade did not stop until Ave reached
Ghiridli-Kawe, where we breakfasted in a cottage inhabited
by a Turkish peasant. The bed of a torrent leads the tra-
veller through a rocky vale : this spot, known by the name
of Alaman-Bogazi, is wild and romantic ; sharp rocks display
their dark and denticulated points, above thick tufts of laurels,
holms, and olive trees. This rocky ground runs to a consi-
derable distance before it reaches the station of Alaman-
Bogazi, where there is a coffee-house for entertainment:
here Ismacl halted, according to the practice of the Musul-
mans.
The traveller often meet?, in the most deserted spots of Asia
Minor, with small huts : a Turk, a poor dervich, sometimes
offers him rice, water, and bad fruit, but always coffee. After
having crossed the Caystre in a ferry-boat, I saw, on its banks,
the remains of a quay belonging to one of the suburbs of Ephe-
sus, and the foundations of several large monuments. We now
followed the direction of the sea-shore until we came to the
ruins of Ncapolis, but did not reach Scala-Nova until the night
had set in: this small port is become the entrepot and magazine
of a great part of the corn of Asia Minor. It is situated oppo-
site the island of Samos, the whole of the wine produced in
which is shipped for the account of the merchants of Scala-
Nova. This city is built on a small bill of a sugar-loaf form:
I have not yet been able to conceive how our horses, excellent
as they were, contrived to reach the house of the French Con-
sul, by such streets, not only steep and winding, but most
wretchedly paved.
Heles Oglou, Aga, commands a part of Caria and Ionia :
his usual residence is at Scala-Nova: his government com-
mences at the gardens of Smyrna, lying without the gates,
and extends to a distance of twelve leagues beyond the
Meander. He is very firm in administering justice, the forms
of which are prompt and severe. Several traits are, however,
cited, both of his sagacity, and tbe impartiality of his decisions.
He has several commanders under him; and among these is
Gumuch, Aga, proprietor of Miletus and Magnesia.
On the day after my arrival, I was presented to Heles Oglou.
He resides in a small house, the appearance and furniture of
which do not correspond with the immense riches he is said to
possess. He was seated on a carpet at one of the extremities
of a small apartment; and, without doubt to affect an air of
much occupation, and solicitude for tbe welfare of his people,
dictated to no less than four secretaries, who were on their
knees before him. These poor devils did not dare to turn the
stants we crossed the plain of Develikeuil, and the valley of
Palamon-Deressi. The cavalcade did not stop until Ave reached
Ghiridli-Kawe, where we breakfasted in a cottage inhabited
by a Turkish peasant. The bed of a torrent leads the tra-
veller through a rocky vale : this spot, known by the name
of Alaman-Bogazi, is wild and romantic ; sharp rocks display
their dark and denticulated points, above thick tufts of laurels,
holms, and olive trees. This rocky ground runs to a consi-
derable distance before it reaches the station of Alaman-
Bogazi, where there is a coffee-house for entertainment:
here Ismacl halted, according to the practice of the Musul-
mans.
The traveller often meet?, in the most deserted spots of Asia
Minor, with small huts : a Turk, a poor dervich, sometimes
offers him rice, water, and bad fruit, but always coffee. After
having crossed the Caystre in a ferry-boat, I saw, on its banks,
the remains of a quay belonging to one of the suburbs of Ephe-
sus, and the foundations of several large monuments. We now
followed the direction of the sea-shore until we came to the
ruins of Ncapolis, but did not reach Scala-Nova until the night
had set in: this small port is become the entrepot and magazine
of a great part of the corn of Asia Minor. It is situated oppo-
site the island of Samos, the whole of the wine produced in
which is shipped for the account of the merchants of Scala-
Nova. This city is built on a small bill of a sugar-loaf form:
I have not yet been able to conceive how our horses, excellent
as they were, contrived to reach the house of the French Con-
sul, by such streets, not only steep and winding, but most
wretchedly paved.
Heles Oglou, Aga, commands a part of Caria and Ionia :
his usual residence is at Scala-Nova: his government com-
mences at the gardens of Smyrna, lying without the gates,
and extends to a distance of twelve leagues beyond the
Meander. He is very firm in administering justice, the forms
of which are prompt and severe. Several traits are, however,
cited, both of his sagacity, and tbe impartiality of his decisions.
He has several commanders under him; and among these is
Gumuch, Aga, proprietor of Miletus and Magnesia.
On the day after my arrival, I was presented to Heles Oglou.
He resides in a small house, the appearance and furniture of
which do not correspond with the immense riches he is said to
possess. He was seated on a carpet at one of the extremities
of a small apartment; and, without doubt to affect an air of
much occupation, and solicitude for tbe welfare of his people,
dictated to no less than four secretaries, who were on their
knees before him. These poor devils did not dare to turn the