DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.5504#0037
In 181/ and 1818.
131
van which had arrived before ours, and we were forced to take
up our lodgings in small huts, the habitual residence of toads,
and of hungry insects, whose bites molested us to such a de-
gree, that we sallied forth and kindled a large fire. Around
it the Arabs danced and sung during the remainder of the
night; but their festivity did not dispel the gloomy recollec-
tion of Tantoura, which I still retain.
As I was particularly anxious to visit Cesarea, we set out be-
fore day-light. This city, the position of which is similar to
that of Athmatha, is entirely deserted; but its ramparts, port,
and monuments, are so well preserved as to excite an inex-
pressible surprise. The streets and squares still remain ; and
if the gates which belonged to its lofty and formidable walls,
were to be re-b*uilt, Cesarea might still be inhabited and de-
fended. A calamitous event appears to have been either fatal
to, or to have put to flight, its numerous population within
these few years, perhaps even within a few months. The walls
of the church are blackened with the smoke of the incense of
the Christians; and the pulpit, which resounded with the elo-
quent discourses of the courageous and enlightened bishops, is
still entire. The tombs are open, and the bones heaped around
them are the sole testimonies of the past residence of man in
this appaling solitude. The silence which prevails at Cesarea,
is alone interrupted by the regular and monotonous noise of
the sea: the waves seem indignant at having to encounter
useless obstacles, and to obey those who are now no more;
they break furiously, and cover with foam the jetty and quays
of the port. Their reiterated efforts have shaken tlie enormous
masses of granite; the tower of the pharos is dilapidated; and
the stair-case and partitions of the chateau thrown open to the
birds of prey who there take up their abode.
Cesarea, named by the Arabs Qaysaryeh, has still to boast
-of a great number of superb columns, several of which arc-
entire, and in fine preservation; others were, in the middle
ages, employed in the construction of the mole. The base of
this edifice, which projected a considerable length into the
sea, was formed of the richest materials. Near its ruins are to
be seen blocks of rose colour granite, of the proportion of eight
feet, having Latin inscriptions on them, which are, however,
by the abrasion of the stone, become too illegible to be deci-
phered. In proportion as we protracted our stay, the sea
became more boisterous, insomuch that we were thoroughly
wetted by the minute particles of the divided spray: I was
thus constrained, notwithstanding my curiosity, to quit the
port of noble but dejected Cesarea.
For the space of two leagues we hud still to follow the track
131
van which had arrived before ours, and we were forced to take
up our lodgings in small huts, the habitual residence of toads,
and of hungry insects, whose bites molested us to such a de-
gree, that we sallied forth and kindled a large fire. Around
it the Arabs danced and sung during the remainder of the
night; but their festivity did not dispel the gloomy recollec-
tion of Tantoura, which I still retain.
As I was particularly anxious to visit Cesarea, we set out be-
fore day-light. This city, the position of which is similar to
that of Athmatha, is entirely deserted; but its ramparts, port,
and monuments, are so well preserved as to excite an inex-
pressible surprise. The streets and squares still remain ; and
if the gates which belonged to its lofty and formidable walls,
were to be re-b*uilt, Cesarea might still be inhabited and de-
fended. A calamitous event appears to have been either fatal
to, or to have put to flight, its numerous population within
these few years, perhaps even within a few months. The walls
of the church are blackened with the smoke of the incense of
the Christians; and the pulpit, which resounded with the elo-
quent discourses of the courageous and enlightened bishops, is
still entire. The tombs are open, and the bones heaped around
them are the sole testimonies of the past residence of man in
this appaling solitude. The silence which prevails at Cesarea,
is alone interrupted by the regular and monotonous noise of
the sea: the waves seem indignant at having to encounter
useless obstacles, and to obey those who are now no more;
they break furiously, and cover with foam the jetty and quays
of the port. Their reiterated efforts have shaken tlie enormous
masses of granite; the tower of the pharos is dilapidated; and
the stair-case and partitions of the chateau thrown open to the
birds of prey who there take up their abode.
Cesarea, named by the Arabs Qaysaryeh, has still to boast
-of a great number of superb columns, several of which arc-
entire, and in fine preservation; others were, in the middle
ages, employed in the construction of the mole. The base of
this edifice, which projected a considerable length into the
sea, was formed of the richest materials. Near its ruins are to
be seen blocks of rose colour granite, of the proportion of eight
feet, having Latin inscriptions on them, which are, however,
by the abrasion of the stone, become too illegible to be deci-
phered. In proportion as we protracted our stay, the sea
became more boisterous, insomuch that we were thoroughly
wetted by the minute particles of the divided spray: I was
thus constrained, notwithstanding my curiosity, to quit the
port of noble but dejected Cesarea.
For the space of two leagues we hud still to follow the track