In 1817, and 1818. 155
of this tribe : we had formed an acquaintance at the house of
the governor of Jerusalem ; and he insisted on my visiting his
establishment in the desert. Ibrahym occasionally inhabits*
Keryet-Lefta, or the valley of el-Byr.
There is an extreme difference of temperature between the
mountains of Judea and the sea shore : it was winter at Jeru-
salem, and spring at Jaffa. We were delighted at breathing
the perfume exhaled by the gardens of oranges and lemons
which lie before Jaffa, on the road of the ancient Arimathea.
These gardens are planted without symmetry and without art;
brooks flow amid rows of trees pressing on each other; the
flowers and fruits with which the branches are loaded, make
them yield beneath their weight, and cool themselves in the
water as it gently murmurs along; while beautiful palms rise
like so many minarets above this balmy forest. It is impos-
sible to convey an idea of the pleasure the traveller feels when
he penetrates into these groves, after having had his eyes
fixed throughout the day on a scorching strand, and his ears
struck by the shrill and incessant cries of an Arab population,
which seems to be always menacing, and always in revolt.
Mehemet, the aga of Jaffa, anticipated my visit by a present
he sent me, consisting of four lambs, rice, corn, poultry, sugar,
and coffee. I went to thank him; and he received me in a
pavilion he had just had constructed at the sea-side : his man-
ners were cordial and polished, and we soon came to a good
understanding. This aga, by birth a Circassian, was about
forty five years of age : he had been brought to Constantinople
when very young, and was purchased by Gezzar, the pacha of
Acre, who made him one of his mamelouks. Having been
sent on several difficult missions, Mehemet displayed on these
occasions great intelligence; and bravery did for him the rest.
Having been appointed governor of Jaffa, after the death of his
patron, he looks forward to independence, and perhaps aspires
even to the general government of Syria. This man, posses-
sing a fine figure, active, adroit, and cruel even to ferocity, is
capable of not sparine: any means to obtain his aim. The ter-
ritories surrounding Jaffa, Ascalon, and Gaza, are cultivated for
his profit; and he possesses exclusively the commerce of this
territory. Constantly on horseback, either engaged in exer-
cising his troops, or inspecting his workmen, during the day,
he watches in person over the security of the city by night.
When he makes the tour of Jaffa, followed by the executors of
his orders, his rencounter is sure to be fatal to those who en-
deavour to frustrate his vigilance. He augments his guard
dailv, fortifies his ramparts, enlarges the port, and constructs
qua'v's. Lastlv, Mehemet is a man whom destiny seems to
of this tribe : we had formed an acquaintance at the house of
the governor of Jerusalem ; and he insisted on my visiting his
establishment in the desert. Ibrahym occasionally inhabits*
Keryet-Lefta, or the valley of el-Byr.
There is an extreme difference of temperature between the
mountains of Judea and the sea shore : it was winter at Jeru-
salem, and spring at Jaffa. We were delighted at breathing
the perfume exhaled by the gardens of oranges and lemons
which lie before Jaffa, on the road of the ancient Arimathea.
These gardens are planted without symmetry and without art;
brooks flow amid rows of trees pressing on each other; the
flowers and fruits with which the branches are loaded, make
them yield beneath their weight, and cool themselves in the
water as it gently murmurs along; while beautiful palms rise
like so many minarets above this balmy forest. It is impos-
sible to convey an idea of the pleasure the traveller feels when
he penetrates into these groves, after having had his eyes
fixed throughout the day on a scorching strand, and his ears
struck by the shrill and incessant cries of an Arab population,
which seems to be always menacing, and always in revolt.
Mehemet, the aga of Jaffa, anticipated my visit by a present
he sent me, consisting of four lambs, rice, corn, poultry, sugar,
and coffee. I went to thank him; and he received me in a
pavilion he had just had constructed at the sea-side : his man-
ners were cordial and polished, and we soon came to a good
understanding. This aga, by birth a Circassian, was about
forty five years of age : he had been brought to Constantinople
when very young, and was purchased by Gezzar, the pacha of
Acre, who made him one of his mamelouks. Having been
sent on several difficult missions, Mehemet displayed on these
occasions great intelligence; and bravery did for him the rest.
Having been appointed governor of Jaffa, after the death of his
patron, he looks forward to independence, and perhaps aspires
even to the general government of Syria. This man, posses-
sing a fine figure, active, adroit, and cruel even to ferocity, is
capable of not sparine: any means to obtain his aim. The ter-
ritories surrounding Jaffa, Ascalon, and Gaza, are cultivated for
his profit; and he possesses exclusively the commerce of this
territory. Constantly on horseback, either engaged in exer-
cising his troops, or inspecting his workmen, during the day,
he watches in person over the security of the city by night.
When he makes the tour of Jaffa, followed by the executors of
his orders, his rencounter is sure to be fatal to those who en-
deavour to frustrate his vigilance. He augments his guard
dailv, fortifies his ramparts, enlarges the port, and constructs
qua'v's. Lastlv, Mehemet is a man whom destiny seems to