158 Travels in Greece, Turkey, and the Holy Land,
understand him without considerable difficulty, and when he
spoke Arabic he was equally incomprehensible. I had besides,
as an additional escort, two horsemen, an Arab of Nabolos,
and an African of Mogador. The whole of the city of Jaffa
assisted in the preparations for our departure. Our caravans
was very numerous: the streets were encumbered with the
camels, the dromedaries, and Mehemet's guard: janissaries
ill treated the Arabs, who uttered hideous exclamations; our
affrighted horses sprung and pranced, while, in the interim, the
cowls of the good monks, who braved the insults of this mul-
titude, were blended with turbans of so many colours, while
they bade us adieu. I succeeded at length in extricating my-
self from this croud, a small portion of which was so insolent,
and the remainder so destitute and wretched.
The aga of Jaffa, a part of whose guard of cavalry escorted
us as far as Gaza, offered me, as a token of his remembrance,
an Arabian horse, which I refused; but, to make an equal
display of generosity on my side, I sent him a watch set with
pearls, with which he was highly pleased.
Our departure from Jaffa was not without pomp : the guns
Avere fired, and numerous horsemen voluntarily joined our es-
cort, to accompany us during a part of our journey. We slept
in the open air, beneath a sorry tent, at Jabena, the ancient
Jamnia, which was inhabited by a few Arab pastors only. The
whole of this territory is susceptible of a surprising fertility;
but the hand of despotism destroys during the day what the
dew of heaven has made to spring.
I quitted the caravan, which was to direct its course to-
wards Giza, long before break of day; and, having with me a
drogoman, my servant, and a nuimelouk, went in quest of the
ruins of Ascalon. The dawn broke just as Ave Avere joined by
an Arab near the ruins of Azoth, once so nourishing under the
domination of the Philistines. This Bedouin, Avho was wan-
dering AA'ithout any settled plan, Avas delighted with the op-
portunity afforded him of hearing the praises bestOAved on
the beauty and fleetness of his mare, Avhose Hashing eyes vied
in lustre Avith those of the antelope: he hung unceasingly
over the neck of this charming animal, to Avhoin he spoke as
to a beloved child, stifling her with kisses. On our drawing
near to a ravine, our companion pointed out to me ell-Tell,
the chief residence of the tribe of Ouahydyeh, to which he
himself belonged, and which was in close alliance Avith the
aga of Jaffa. He expatiated for a long time on the power
and glory of his tribe; but, unfortunately, Avhat he delivered
in a very animated and impressive manner, Avas translated to
me very laconically.
understand him without considerable difficulty, and when he
spoke Arabic he was equally incomprehensible. I had besides,
as an additional escort, two horsemen, an Arab of Nabolos,
and an African of Mogador. The whole of the city of Jaffa
assisted in the preparations for our departure. Our caravans
was very numerous: the streets were encumbered with the
camels, the dromedaries, and Mehemet's guard: janissaries
ill treated the Arabs, who uttered hideous exclamations; our
affrighted horses sprung and pranced, while, in the interim, the
cowls of the good monks, who braved the insults of this mul-
titude, were blended with turbans of so many colours, while
they bade us adieu. I succeeded at length in extricating my-
self from this croud, a small portion of which was so insolent,
and the remainder so destitute and wretched.
The aga of Jaffa, a part of whose guard of cavalry escorted
us as far as Gaza, offered me, as a token of his remembrance,
an Arabian horse, which I refused; but, to make an equal
display of generosity on my side, I sent him a watch set with
pearls, with which he was highly pleased.
Our departure from Jaffa was not without pomp : the guns
Avere fired, and numerous horsemen voluntarily joined our es-
cort, to accompany us during a part of our journey. We slept
in the open air, beneath a sorry tent, at Jabena, the ancient
Jamnia, which was inhabited by a few Arab pastors only. The
whole of this territory is susceptible of a surprising fertility;
but the hand of despotism destroys during the day what the
dew of heaven has made to spring.
I quitted the caravan, which was to direct its course to-
wards Giza, long before break of day; and, having with me a
drogoman, my servant, and a nuimelouk, went in quest of the
ruins of Ascalon. The dawn broke just as Ave Avere joined by
an Arab near the ruins of Azoth, once so nourishing under the
domination of the Philistines. This Bedouin, Avho was wan-
dering AA'ithout any settled plan, Avas delighted with the op-
portunity afforded him of hearing the praises bestOAved on
the beauty and fleetness of his mare, Avhose Hashing eyes vied
in lustre Avith those of the antelope: he hung unceasingly
over the neck of this charming animal, to Avhoin he spoke as
to a beloved child, stifling her with kisses. On our drawing
near to a ravine, our companion pointed out to me ell-Tell,
the chief residence of the tribe of Ouahydyeh, to which he
himself belonged, and which was in close alliance Avith the
aga of Jaffa. He expatiated for a long time on the power
and glory of his tribe; but, unfortunately, Avhat he delivered
in a very animated and impressive manner, Avas translated to
me very laconically.