DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.5504#0077
In 181/ and 1818. 165
so gentle, and so sure of foot: I found a greater difficulty,
however, in accustoming myself to the hideous guttural cries of
this poor animal, even- time he was forced to lie down, either
to enable me to mount on his back, or to alight.
At ten at night, we halted in a plain overspread with heath:
while some were busied in collecting dry wood, others kindled
a fire near a heap of ashes which indicated that another caravan
had recently passed. Thus far, we had had to cross immense
uncultivated plains : neither palms nor sycamores were to be
seen; and the monotony of this barren waste was alone varied
by clayey ravins, and the beds of dried torrents. During the
whole, of the evening the screams of the jackals were what
alone interrupted the solitude ; and during the night our people
were obliged to discharge their pistols, to drive away these un-
pleasant neighbours, who swarmed about the tent. I slept
soundly, nevertheless, until four in the morning, when I was
awakened by the pious hymn of the eamcl-drivers. The cara-
van was composed of nine persons, four of whom were mounted
on dromedaries: the baggage, water, and provisions, were
carried by five camels. Our Arabs preceded us on foot.
I was desirous to reach el-Arych by night: the journey was
long, and the road bad. We crossed hills and valleys of a fine,
shifting sand, of a dazzling whiteness, without discovering the
smallest trace of vegetation : as we passed along, large rats, on
our approaching them, sought refuge in the holes with which
the sands abound. At noon, the sun was scorching, and the
heat almost insupportable. We fell in with several Arab shep-
herds near the tomb of a santon: they drank with eagerness
the brackish water which tbey drew from a cistern falling in
ruins. What a picture of wretchedness and suffering did these
half-famished creatures present! This tribe, which was inde-
pendent a few years ago, had been persecuted, and finally sub-
jected, by the aga of Gaza : the women and children were de-
tained prisoners in that city, and made responsible tor the
fidelity of the men of the tribe, to whom he had given the
charge of his folds.
Having descended towards the sea side, we followed the
strand during six hours. At length the palms of el-Arych were
descried; but it required a long time to reach them. El-
Arych consists merely of a small fort, surrounded by cottages
sunk in the sand ; but its forest of palms is truly magnificent:
beneath their dome, ruffled by the evening breeze, we forgot
the fatigues of the day. The overspreading darkness gave a
relief to the sight; and the stillness and coolness of the night
were inconceivably pleasant. It is then that the soul recovers
its energy, while the body resumes its vigour and elasticity.
Voyages and Travels, No. 5, Vol. I. 3 Q
so gentle, and so sure of foot: I found a greater difficulty,
however, in accustoming myself to the hideous guttural cries of
this poor animal, even- time he was forced to lie down, either
to enable me to mount on his back, or to alight.
At ten at night, we halted in a plain overspread with heath:
while some were busied in collecting dry wood, others kindled
a fire near a heap of ashes which indicated that another caravan
had recently passed. Thus far, we had had to cross immense
uncultivated plains : neither palms nor sycamores were to be
seen; and the monotony of this barren waste was alone varied
by clayey ravins, and the beds of dried torrents. During the
whole, of the evening the screams of the jackals were what
alone interrupted the solitude ; and during the night our people
were obliged to discharge their pistols, to drive away these un-
pleasant neighbours, who swarmed about the tent. I slept
soundly, nevertheless, until four in the morning, when I was
awakened by the pious hymn of the eamcl-drivers. The cara-
van was composed of nine persons, four of whom were mounted
on dromedaries: the baggage, water, and provisions, were
carried by five camels. Our Arabs preceded us on foot.
I was desirous to reach el-Arych by night: the journey was
long, and the road bad. We crossed hills and valleys of a fine,
shifting sand, of a dazzling whiteness, without discovering the
smallest trace of vegetation : as we passed along, large rats, on
our approaching them, sought refuge in the holes with which
the sands abound. At noon, the sun was scorching, and the
heat almost insupportable. We fell in with several Arab shep-
herds near the tomb of a santon: they drank with eagerness
the brackish water which tbey drew from a cistern falling in
ruins. What a picture of wretchedness and suffering did these
half-famished creatures present! This tribe, which was inde-
pendent a few years ago, had been persecuted, and finally sub-
jected, by the aga of Gaza : the women and children were de-
tained prisoners in that city, and made responsible tor the
fidelity of the men of the tribe, to whom he had given the
charge of his folds.
Having descended towards the sea side, we followed the
strand during six hours. At length the palms of el-Arych were
descried; but it required a long time to reach them. El-
Arych consists merely of a small fort, surrounded by cottages
sunk in the sand ; but its forest of palms is truly magnificent:
beneath their dome, ruffled by the evening breeze, we forgot
the fatigues of the day. The overspreading darkness gave a
relief to the sight; and the stillness and coolness of the night
were inconceivably pleasant. It is then that the soul recovers
its energy, while the body resumes its vigour and elasticity.
Voyages and Travels, No. 5, Vol. I. 3 Q