152
PRINCIPLES OF GREEK ART
CHAP.
the sleeves produced by fastening with fibulae, and thus it
closely resembled the Dorian chiton, of which I shall presently
treat. But most authorities think that in many cases the gar-
ment was sewn at the sides. In the second place there was
one, in some cases there seems to be more than one, overgar-
ment or iTrlfi\r)na. In the putting on of this there is great
variety. In any case it was not sewn, but was merely an ob-
long piece of cloth draped about the body. Sometimes it was
worn over both shoulders in the manner of a shawl. Sometimes
it was fastened with a fibula on one shoulder and passed under
the opposite shoulder and arm. Usually it was doubled over;
sometimes the upper line was held in position by a band passed
over the shoulder. Sometimes it was worn just like the Dorian
himation or cloak, to which we shall presently turn. Whether
besides this overgarment a separate veil or KprjSe/xvov was
worn, is again a difficult question.
The male figures, and at least some of the female figures, on
the Harpy Tomb are clad in the sleeved Ionic chiton, over
which they wear an overdress, which seems to be draped by its
own weight only, and to require no fibulae.
The Ionic was not, however, the primitive Hellenic dress.
Herodotus (v. 88) tells us, no doubt truly, that the real national
Greek dress was the Dorian, whereas the Ionian dress was
adopted by the Greeks of Asia from their neighbours, the
Carians. After the Persian wars there came a strong reaction
against all the effeminate Oriental ways which had begun to
corrupt the manhood of Greece, such as the use of elaborate
coiffures and of trailing robes. And henceforth the Ionian
dress gives way in art, and the Dorian takes its place, though
the change does not take place all at once — rather by a slow
process which lasts for half a century; thus we often find a
Women were dressed." In any case the practical experiments of Professor
Brown are valuable.
PRINCIPLES OF GREEK ART
CHAP.
the sleeves produced by fastening with fibulae, and thus it
closely resembled the Dorian chiton, of which I shall presently
treat. But most authorities think that in many cases the gar-
ment was sewn at the sides. In the second place there was
one, in some cases there seems to be more than one, overgar-
ment or iTrlfi\r)na. In the putting on of this there is great
variety. In any case it was not sewn, but was merely an ob-
long piece of cloth draped about the body. Sometimes it was
worn over both shoulders in the manner of a shawl. Sometimes
it was fastened with a fibula on one shoulder and passed under
the opposite shoulder and arm. Usually it was doubled over;
sometimes the upper line was held in position by a band passed
over the shoulder. Sometimes it was worn just like the Dorian
himation or cloak, to which we shall presently turn. Whether
besides this overgarment a separate veil or KprjSe/xvov was
worn, is again a difficult question.
The male figures, and at least some of the female figures, on
the Harpy Tomb are clad in the sleeved Ionic chiton, over
which they wear an overdress, which seems to be draped by its
own weight only, and to require no fibulae.
The Ionic was not, however, the primitive Hellenic dress.
Herodotus (v. 88) tells us, no doubt truly, that the real national
Greek dress was the Dorian, whereas the Ionian dress was
adopted by the Greeks of Asia from their neighbours, the
Carians. After the Persian wars there came a strong reaction
against all the effeminate Oriental ways which had begun to
corrupt the manhood of Greece, such as the use of elaborate
coiffures and of trailing robes. And henceforth the Ionian
dress gives way in art, and the Dorian takes its place, though
the change does not take place all at once — rather by a slow
process which lasts for half a century; thus we often find a
Women were dressed." In any case the practical experiments of Professor
Brown are valuable.