DOI Seite / Zitierlink:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.62931#0032
BAUDEKINS
A record of the death of Anne, Queen of Richard II., states that
the “ Herec ” was covered with cloth of gold, which was afterwards
sold for £66.
Some indication of the use and cost of this sumptuous fabric
during the reign of Henry VIII. maybe gathered from the following
item of the expenses of Princess Mary, in 1540: “Payed to
Peycocke, of London, for xix yerds iii. qft. of clothe of golde at
xxxviij. s the yerde xxxvij1’ x s. vjd.” And for “ a yerde and d‘
qft. of clothe of siluer xls.”
Mention is also made in the York fabric rolls of the time of
Edward VI., “ of two copes of sanguine purple clothe of goulde, and
a redd vestment with lyons of goulde.”
The gold and silver used in early Asiatic fabrics was in the form
of strips of metal. In Sicilian, Cyprian, Italian, and German
fabrics, the thin metal, either by itself, or upon thin skin, was
wrapped round a silken or linen thread, while the Saracens in Spain
used a strip of gilded parchment.
Fine gold wire was in use at an early date, for embroidery, but
not for the woven fabric.
Baudekins (from Bagdad), a fine silken tinted shot cloth of
gold, somewhat similar to “ ciclatoun,” was extensively used as
cloths of estate, which were spread overhead or behind the thrones
of kings.
The following passage indicates the amount of cloth necessary
for such a purpose, and its value, during the reign of Henry VII.:—
“ Item to Antony Corsse for a cloth of estate conteyning 471
yerds, £\\ the yerd, £522, 10s.”
These baudekins were also frequently used at this period for
funeral palls, and known as cloths of pall.
Another material used extensively during the reign of Edward
VI. was coloured velvet. In the York fabric rolls mention is made
of “ white velvet copes, together with a cope of greene velvet with
flowers. Some Blew copes and Redd copes, and two tunicks of
Redd Sarcinett”
Fustian.—Originally produced at Fustat (Cairo), in Egypt, is a
fabric having a linen warp and a thick twilled cotton weft, which is
cut on one side showing a low pile. In the 13th century St. Paul’s
Cathedral had a “ white chasuble of fustian.” Frequent mention is
made during the 12th and 13th centuries of the fustian chasubles
of the Cistercian abbots.
Diaper.—Originally a silken patterned fabric, usually white.
In the early church inventories of Exeter (1161) there is mentioned,
“a cope of white diaper with half moons”; and at St. Paul’s
8
A record of the death of Anne, Queen of Richard II., states that
the “ Herec ” was covered with cloth of gold, which was afterwards
sold for £66.
Some indication of the use and cost of this sumptuous fabric
during the reign of Henry VIII. maybe gathered from the following
item of the expenses of Princess Mary, in 1540: “Payed to
Peycocke, of London, for xix yerds iii. qft. of clothe of golde at
xxxviij. s the yerde xxxvij1’ x s. vjd.” And for “ a yerde and d‘
qft. of clothe of siluer xls.”
Mention is also made in the York fabric rolls of the time of
Edward VI., “ of two copes of sanguine purple clothe of goulde, and
a redd vestment with lyons of goulde.”
The gold and silver used in early Asiatic fabrics was in the form
of strips of metal. In Sicilian, Cyprian, Italian, and German
fabrics, the thin metal, either by itself, or upon thin skin, was
wrapped round a silken or linen thread, while the Saracens in Spain
used a strip of gilded parchment.
Fine gold wire was in use at an early date, for embroidery, but
not for the woven fabric.
Baudekins (from Bagdad), a fine silken tinted shot cloth of
gold, somewhat similar to “ ciclatoun,” was extensively used as
cloths of estate, which were spread overhead or behind the thrones
of kings.
The following passage indicates the amount of cloth necessary
for such a purpose, and its value, during the reign of Henry VII.:—
“ Item to Antony Corsse for a cloth of estate conteyning 471
yerds, £\\ the yerd, £522, 10s.”
These baudekins were also frequently used at this period for
funeral palls, and known as cloths of pall.
Another material used extensively during the reign of Edward
VI. was coloured velvet. In the York fabric rolls mention is made
of “ white velvet copes, together with a cope of greene velvet with
flowers. Some Blew copes and Redd copes, and two tunicks of
Redd Sarcinett”
Fustian.—Originally produced at Fustat (Cairo), in Egypt, is a
fabric having a linen warp and a thick twilled cotton weft, which is
cut on one side showing a low pile. In the 13th century St. Paul’s
Cathedral had a “ white chasuble of fustian.” Frequent mention is
made during the 12th and 13th centuries of the fustian chasubles
of the Cistercian abbots.
Diaper.—Originally a silken patterned fabric, usually white.
In the early church inventories of Exeter (1161) there is mentioned,
“a cope of white diaper with half moons”; and at St. Paul’s
8