DOI Seite / Zitierlink:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.62931#0062
CASHMERE SHAWLS
The Saree, or woman’s plaid, is the common dress of the Hindu
women of all ranks, as well as of many Mohammedans.
The Turban, worn by Hindu and frequently by Mohammedan, is
usually 9 to 12 inches wide, and 15 to 25 yards long; but is
frequently woven 60 yards in length with a proportionate width,
bands of ornamentation, varying from half an inch to several inches
wide, are woven across the ends of the piece, frequently supple-
mented by a narrow border running the length of the piece.
Coloured stripes in mixed fabrics of silk and wool are common,
the colours being green and crimson, or yellow and crimson, with
delicate patterning of floral forms ; these are undoubtedly the most
Fig. 23.—Indian Pine.
ancient of Indian fabrics.
Among the Hindu and Moham-
medan upper classes, costumes cut
from the woven piece and correspond-
ing to the European made-up garment
are worn ; a style that dates back to
the Mohammedan invasion, and was
sometimes followed, though reluc-
tantly, by the Hindus. These gar-
ments of silk, or cotton, or silk inter-
woven with gold and silver, like the
Hindu cotton fabrics, are invariably
richly brocaded with pattern. The
beautiful kincobs are representative of
these brocaded patterns (Nos. 3,4, 5,
plate 15).
The Cashmere shawls were famous
for their technical qualities of weaving
and material, and for the beauty of
design and colouring.
The distinctive feature of
the ornamentation is the free use of
the pine, which is, together with the ground, filled with small floral
forms.
Fig. 23, taken from a shawl weaver’s pattern book, about 1850,
is an interesting example of the pine pattern. It is also instructive,
showing that the weaver was allowed a free hand in the interpreta-
tion of the floral details, which in the sketch are just suggested by
the designer.
The finest of these Cashmere shawls are woven of the wool of the
Thibetan goat; and a shawl of a full flowered field of the finest
quality of wool will cost in Kashmir £300.
These shawls are usually woven in separate pieces corresponding
34
The Saree, or woman’s plaid, is the common dress of the Hindu
women of all ranks, as well as of many Mohammedans.
The Turban, worn by Hindu and frequently by Mohammedan, is
usually 9 to 12 inches wide, and 15 to 25 yards long; but is
frequently woven 60 yards in length with a proportionate width,
bands of ornamentation, varying from half an inch to several inches
wide, are woven across the ends of the piece, frequently supple-
mented by a narrow border running the length of the piece.
Coloured stripes in mixed fabrics of silk and wool are common,
the colours being green and crimson, or yellow and crimson, with
delicate patterning of floral forms ; these are undoubtedly the most
Fig. 23.—Indian Pine.
ancient of Indian fabrics.
Among the Hindu and Moham-
medan upper classes, costumes cut
from the woven piece and correspond-
ing to the European made-up garment
are worn ; a style that dates back to
the Mohammedan invasion, and was
sometimes followed, though reluc-
tantly, by the Hindus. These gar-
ments of silk, or cotton, or silk inter-
woven with gold and silver, like the
Hindu cotton fabrics, are invariably
richly brocaded with pattern. The
beautiful kincobs are representative of
these brocaded patterns (Nos. 3,4, 5,
plate 15).
The Cashmere shawls were famous
for their technical qualities of weaving
and material, and for the beauty of
design and colouring.
The distinctive feature of
the ornamentation is the free use of
the pine, which is, together with the ground, filled with small floral
forms.
Fig. 23, taken from a shawl weaver’s pattern book, about 1850,
is an interesting example of the pine pattern. It is also instructive,
showing that the weaver was allowed a free hand in the interpreta-
tion of the floral details, which in the sketch are just suggested by
the designer.
The finest of these Cashmere shawls are woven of the wool of the
Thibetan goat; and a shawl of a full flowered field of the finest
quality of wool will cost in Kashmir £300.
These shawls are usually woven in separate pieces corresponding
34