DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.62931#0091
PALERMO PATTERNING
consists of symmetrically placed trees, birds, and animals, and is
probably the earliest extant example of this characteristic Sicilian
fabric patterning.
The second period commenced during the reign of the Norman
King, Roger II., who, in 11 30, introduced many skilled weavers from
Greece and Byzantium, and enlarged the Imperial factory or Hotel
de Tiraz at Palermo.
Hugh Falcandus, writing in the 12th century, speaks of this
famous weaving establishment:
“ It is impossible to pass over in silence the celebrated workshop
in which silk is spun into
different coloured threads.
Here one can see stuffs
made of single, double, and
threefold thread, which are
less expensive and require
less skill than those made
with sixfold thread, more
raw silk being used for the
more substantial material.
“ Here fabrics are orna-
mented with a circular de-
sign, requiring for this
reason great skill and a
high price. There are also
numerous ornamental pat-
terns of various kinds and
colours, woven in gold and
silk threads.”
This passage clearly
indicates that gold was
interwoven with the silk,
Fig. 25. — Chinese Weaving.
XIV Century.
and that the circular roundels, which were very characteristic of the
Sassanian and Byzantine fabrics, were also a feature of the Palermo
patterning of the 12th century.
This period was undoubtedly the most prolific and important of
any for the production of sumptuous patterned fabrics ; the designs
are characterised by a splendid vitality, beauty, and interest of
design, with perfect distribution and spacing. The patterns are
composed of the palm and date trees, with their inflorescence,
together with eagles, swans and ducks, lions, harts and dogs
symmetrically placed. On plate 32 are three typical examples of
this interesting period, and a fourth is given in fig. 26.
51
consists of symmetrically placed trees, birds, and animals, and is
probably the earliest extant example of this characteristic Sicilian
fabric patterning.
The second period commenced during the reign of the Norman
King, Roger II., who, in 11 30, introduced many skilled weavers from
Greece and Byzantium, and enlarged the Imperial factory or Hotel
de Tiraz at Palermo.
Hugh Falcandus, writing in the 12th century, speaks of this
famous weaving establishment:
“ It is impossible to pass over in silence the celebrated workshop
in which silk is spun into
different coloured threads.
Here one can see stuffs
made of single, double, and
threefold thread, which are
less expensive and require
less skill than those made
with sixfold thread, more
raw silk being used for the
more substantial material.
“ Here fabrics are orna-
mented with a circular de-
sign, requiring for this
reason great skill and a
high price. There are also
numerous ornamental pat-
terns of various kinds and
colours, woven in gold and
silk threads.”
This passage clearly
indicates that gold was
interwoven with the silk,
Fig. 25. — Chinese Weaving.
XIV Century.
and that the circular roundels, which were very characteristic of the
Sassanian and Byzantine fabrics, were also a feature of the Palermo
patterning of the 12th century.
This period was undoubtedly the most prolific and important of
any for the production of sumptuous patterned fabrics ; the designs
are characterised by a splendid vitality, beauty, and interest of
design, with perfect distribution and spacing. The patterns are
composed of the palm and date trees, with their inflorescence,
together with eagles, swans and ducks, lions, harts and dogs
symmetrically placed. On plate 32 are three typical examples of
this interesting period, and a fourth is given in fig. 26.
51