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THIRTEENTH-CENTURY DESIGNS

The horizontal banding of the first period is continued with a
greater degree of freedom in the elements and arrangement of the
pattern. On plate 33 representative examples are given, showing

considerable invention and decorative
qualities of design.
Another characteristic feature of
this period was the use of intersecting
lines or bands, forming geometrical
compartments, within which birds or
animals are symmetrically placed.
Four interesting examples of this
type are given on plate 34.
Fig. 27 is a fine diaper pattern
of this type. All these fabrics are
distinguished by skilful weaving,
beauty of colour, and the use of
splendid material.
Grounds of crimson, olive green,
or purple were usually interwoven
with birds and animals in “ Cyprian ”
gold, consisting of linen threads
round which were wrapped strips of
catgut or some animal substance,
which was first silvered and then gilt.


Fig. 26.—Early Sicilian Brocade.

The third period of Sicilian Art covers the first half of the 13th
century, and is characterised by a greater freedom and diversity of
design, and was probably due to a further importation of Eastern


Fig. 27,—Gold Orna-
ment on Violet Satin.

different, and the
gold.

craftsmen, to meet the increased demands for
these famous silks from Italy, France, and
England.
Figures were frequently introduced, together
with heraldic charges, animals, castles, and rayed
suns, the foliage being more trailing and less
symmetrical.
Fig. 28 is an unusual variant of the bird
patterning for a woven fabric, having an all-over
radiating design. A similar design is figured in
Fischbach’s “Woven Textiles” (Ornamente der
Gewebe}, plate 62, but the details are slightly
ground is purple with the pattern in white and

Palermo was undoubtedly the centre of the Saracenic weaving
industry, yet Persia, Syria, Egypt, and Spain produced richly

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