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Gourbillon, Joseph Antoine de
Travels in Sicily and to Mount Etna in 1819 — London, 1820

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Streets of Palernid.—State of Letters and Sciences. 17

Streets of Palermo.

To look at these streets as they now exist, I hare to learn
the reason of the praise bestowed upon them by Brydone and
Borch. The two principal streets are, indeed, very long. But,
to say nothing of the irregularity of the houses, the filth of the
streets,theincessantobstructionfrom moveable shops, and trades-
men of all kinds working at the doors of their houses, and even
in the middle of the streets, their extreme narrowness entitles
them to the name of alleys, rather than to that of streets. As to
the houses, it would be difficult to imagine any thing more irregu-
lar, more dismal, more dirty, or worse constructed* I can be-
lieve, indeed, that the palaces visited by our two travellers were
exempt from those faults; but palaces do not make a city, nor
princes a population. With respect to the other streets of the
city, Brydone and Borch have not said a word, and their silence
fully explains itself. It would be to push admiration a little too
far, to praise those filthy crooked lanes which intersect the
principal streets.

The two travellers give only four gates to Palermo. It has,
however, fifteen. They would be handsome enough, if it were
correct to Say that two detached pillars might pass for a gate.
However.tbat may be, this strange architecture gave occasion
to Borch to report a joke which fell from a wit of that city,
who observed (according to our author) that this new form of a
gate was the result of the prudence of the new ministry, who
were willing " that husbands should pass conveniently through."

State of Letters and Sciences.

To give credit to our two travellers, letters, the arts, sciences,
and commerce, were very flourishing at Palermo. Yet in this
centre of industry, ingenuity, and learning, it was impossible for
me to find a thermometer, a description of the city, drawings of
the antique monuments, or even a map of the country! But, in
way of compensation, the shops abounded with madonnas, saints,
holy mangers, and relics, of a most admirable workmanship,
and at a sufficiently moderate price.

As to letters, they are here much on a par with the arts and
sciences. Few works of merit are to be found; or the book-
sellers dare not sell them to any but those who can produce the
permission of the Inquisition. The list of books prohibited,
would itself form a large book. These sad restrictions are
not confined to the sale of books. In all libraries, public
or private, the fatal interdict is to be read on the backs of most
of the valuable volumes of science and learning. I have my-
self read it on Buffon's Natural History. It is only with the

Toyages and Travels, No. 2. Vol. IV. D
 
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