TARQUINIA. 243
town and upon the heights is good, and the country
pretty. A thousand scudi per annum is a large
fortune there, enabling a man to keep a carriage
and have every comfort. The costume of the men
is the same as in Rome, and the women wear the
black or white veil upon their heads, like those of the
northof Italy. The town contains,besides whatlhave
mentioned, two convents for women, and four for
men. The mallow here is cultivated as a shrub, and
is so useful that Avolta said, were it less common it
would be sold for its weight in gold. The olive is
very extensively cultivated, but does not thrive, and
is only reckoned to yield a full crop one year in
three. I would certainly advise strangers against the
Palazzaccio until it has undergone a root-and-branch
reform; and the neat little inn in which we passed a
week, has only four tolerable bed-rooms and one
sitting-room for everybody, in which the arms of the
Grand Duke of Tuscany, and representatives of the
ladies of all countries in costume, make a great
figure. It is, however, possible to procure very
clean and cheap lodgings, with respectable and intel-
ligent people near, which, to those who can speak
Italian, I should recommend as the preferable plan.
Dinner and supper could be had from the inn, where
we found the cook excellent ; and Corneto, besides
being the hefod-quarters from which to visit the
surrounding country, will well repay a stay of three
days for itself. Unfortunately, the roads from it to
Toscania,Vulci, Castel d'Asso, and the other ancient
m 2
town and upon the heights is good, and the country
pretty. A thousand scudi per annum is a large
fortune there, enabling a man to keep a carriage
and have every comfort. The costume of the men
is the same as in Rome, and the women wear the
black or white veil upon their heads, like those of the
northof Italy. The town contains,besides whatlhave
mentioned, two convents for women, and four for
men. The mallow here is cultivated as a shrub, and
is so useful that Avolta said, were it less common it
would be sold for its weight in gold. The olive is
very extensively cultivated, but does not thrive, and
is only reckoned to yield a full crop one year in
three. I would certainly advise strangers against the
Palazzaccio until it has undergone a root-and-branch
reform; and the neat little inn in which we passed a
week, has only four tolerable bed-rooms and one
sitting-room for everybody, in which the arms of the
Grand Duke of Tuscany, and representatives of the
ladies of all countries in costume, make a great
figure. It is, however, possible to procure very
clean and cheap lodgings, with respectable and intel-
ligent people near, which, to those who can speak
Italian, I should recommend as the preferable plan.
Dinner and supper could be had from the inn, where
we found the cook excellent ; and Corneto, besides
being the hefod-quarters from which to visit the
surrounding country, will well repay a stay of three
days for itself. Unfortunately, the roads from it to
Toscania,Vulci, Castel d'Asso, and the other ancient
m 2