DOI Seite / Zitierlink:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.5541#0422
390
JEALOUSY OF THE TURKS.
[Chap. xxii.
hard-dried smoke, which it took half an hour to scrape off
with a chisel before I could decipher it, standing all the while
in the chimney-place with my head nearly out at the roof.
Upon the whole I was much disappointed with these
ruins. From the descriptions of former travellers I had
expected something more perfect, more imposing, and in a
better state of preservation; and I could not refrain from
reflecting on the many disappointments which a traveller is
doomed to undergo in Asia Minor. On the one hand he is
told that nothing is to be seen where, perhaps, objects of the
greatest interest are yet undiscovered; and, on the other, he
is led to expect much in buildings which on examination
prove to be of modern date. The Turks look upon him with
suspicion, and being convinced that his search for antiquities
is connected with a knowledge of hidden treasure, they
never volunteer the truth; while the Frank doctors scat-
tered throughout the country, knowing his weak side, inva-
riably deceive him by boasting of their knowledge of ruins
which have no existence, and by describing fragments of
modern walls, or natural caverns, as splendid buildings,
theatres, or temples, covered with inscriptions or supported
by standing columns. There is no exaggeration in this
statement, for I have frequently experienced the truth of it.
But as to the site of Nefez, there can be no doubt that it
was once occupied by an ancient city, though many of the
remains of architecture have a very Byzantine character.
The columns in the burial-ground were neither Roman nor
Greek, and some of the capitals and other fragments evi-
dently Byzantine. The coins, too, which were brought me
as having been picked up amidst the ruins, with the ex-
ception of one of Angora, were of the same character.
Monday, August 22.—Leaving Nefez Kieui at half-past
six, Ave ascended the mountains to the north, and proceeded
four miles N. by E., and then eight more N.N.E., until we
reached Boghaz Kieui at a quarter after eleven, having
twice lost our way upon the mountains. A short distance
from Nefez Kieui wc passed the black tents of the ya'ila,
JEALOUSY OF THE TURKS.
[Chap. xxii.
hard-dried smoke, which it took half an hour to scrape off
with a chisel before I could decipher it, standing all the while
in the chimney-place with my head nearly out at the roof.
Upon the whole I was much disappointed with these
ruins. From the descriptions of former travellers I had
expected something more perfect, more imposing, and in a
better state of preservation; and I could not refrain from
reflecting on the many disappointments which a traveller is
doomed to undergo in Asia Minor. On the one hand he is
told that nothing is to be seen where, perhaps, objects of the
greatest interest are yet undiscovered; and, on the other, he
is led to expect much in buildings which on examination
prove to be of modern date. The Turks look upon him with
suspicion, and being convinced that his search for antiquities
is connected with a knowledge of hidden treasure, they
never volunteer the truth; while the Frank doctors scat-
tered throughout the country, knowing his weak side, inva-
riably deceive him by boasting of their knowledge of ruins
which have no existence, and by describing fragments of
modern walls, or natural caverns, as splendid buildings,
theatres, or temples, covered with inscriptions or supported
by standing columns. There is no exaggeration in this
statement, for I have frequently experienced the truth of it.
But as to the site of Nefez, there can be no doubt that it
was once occupied by an ancient city, though many of the
remains of architecture have a very Byzantine character.
The columns in the burial-ground were neither Roman nor
Greek, and some of the capitals and other fragments evi-
dently Byzantine. The coins, too, which were brought me
as having been picked up amidst the ruins, with the ex-
ception of one of Angora, were of the same character.
Monday, August 22.—Leaving Nefez Kieui at half-past
six, Ave ascended the mountains to the north, and proceeded
four miles N. by E., and then eight more N.N.E., until we
reached Boghaz Kieui at a quarter after eleven, having
twice lost our way upon the mountains. A short distance
from Nefez Kieui wc passed the black tents of the ya'ila,