DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.3906#0176
( 170 )
Yellow.—This is produced in two ways. Dye first in desi Tialdi 4 chittaks,.
then in 4 chittaks aqqal bir dissolved in water; wash out in 1 chitfcak alum.
The other process is to dye first in amba haldi, then in an infusion of the bark
of tbe I'iri mango-tree. mrcl surkhi mail,—boil the wool for 2 hours in one
seer kamtla and as much water as will cover tbe wool, then wash out and dry.
(2.) JJasanti, this color is produced in the same manner as zard (yellow) by
using half the dye stuffs.
Bed.— (1) Gulndr.—Take 2 chittaks of kirmddna, 10' chittaks Uatai
dm, 2 chittaks haldi and 4 chittaks tezdb; pound these and mix them together ;
put them in water with the wool; boil up; take out; wash and dry. Another
process is by using kachchi lakh 2 seers, instead of kirmddna, and other ingre-
dients unchanged. Qirmichi.—The process is the same as in the last case only
that haldi is totally omitted. Otilabi.—Take ^ chittak kirmddna, 4 chit-
taks tezdb and 8 chifctaks hhathai; proceed as for gidnar. The three shades
of guldbi are produced by lessening by degrees the quantities of kirmddna.
It is to be noted that where kachchi lakh is used as a dye, it is not
thrown into the water with the other ingredients but its color is separately
extracted thus:—Mix 2 seers dried kachchi lakh in water; rub it well with the
hands until the water assumes a red color; put this water aside; pour on other
water and repeat the process. This may be repeated until all the coloring pro-
perty has been extracted from the lakh. If this water be used with lchatair;
haldi and tezdb, kirmddna is not needed.
The colors gulndr and qirmichi are produced by another method in
Mirzapur. Steep 2 chittaks sajjiin water for a whole night. In the morning heat
the water on the fire but so that it may not come to boiling point. Wash the
wool in this. Next take a ghara of the extracted color oilakh prepared as before
mentioned. Mix in this 4 chittaks of flour paste. Keep this until it ferments.
This requires about a week in hot weather and 2 weeks in cold weather. Steep
the wool in this for 3 days, turning it frequently. Then dye in hhathai dmr
haldi and tczdb boiled up in water, using the same proportions for gulndr
and qirmichi respectively as already stated. This is called mat ha rang.
Black.—Only wool which is naturally black is dyed black, and it is never
dyed siydh bhura, but only siydh gahra. Boil 8 chittaks ddl hara in water, cool
iti and rub in 4 chittaks kasis to the ddl hara with the hands, put in the wool,
boil again for 5 or 6 hours, cool, wash out and dry.
Agrai.—To produce agrai proper take 1 or 1| seers dhdk flowers; steep
them in water; put the wool in this water for 2 or 3 hours; take out the wool;
mix from 4 to 6 chittaks hhathai in the same way, boil the wool in this again;
and when it has taken the color, wash it out and dry it. Agiai bdddmi.—Same
as in the last case, using half the dye stuffs. Agrai khanhkhdshi—as before, reduc-
ing again by one-half. Agrai mahua.—First proceed as for agrai, using one
and a half seers dhdk flowers, half a seer kathay but add to the infusion of hatha s,
decoction of half a seer babul bark.
Yellow.—This is produced in two ways. Dye first in desi Tialdi 4 chittaks,.
then in 4 chittaks aqqal bir dissolved in water; wash out in 1 chitfcak alum.
The other process is to dye first in amba haldi, then in an infusion of the bark
of tbe I'iri mango-tree. mrcl surkhi mail,—boil the wool for 2 hours in one
seer kamtla and as much water as will cover tbe wool, then wash out and dry.
(2.) JJasanti, this color is produced in the same manner as zard (yellow) by
using half the dye stuffs.
Bed.— (1) Gulndr.—Take 2 chittaks of kirmddna, 10' chittaks Uatai
dm, 2 chittaks haldi and 4 chittaks tezdb; pound these and mix them together ;
put them in water with the wool; boil up; take out; wash and dry. Another
process is by using kachchi lakh 2 seers, instead of kirmddna, and other ingre-
dients unchanged. Qirmichi.—The process is the same as in the last case only
that haldi is totally omitted. Otilabi.—Take ^ chittak kirmddna, 4 chit-
taks tezdb and 8 chifctaks hhathai; proceed as for gidnar. The three shades
of guldbi are produced by lessening by degrees the quantities of kirmddna.
It is to be noted that where kachchi lakh is used as a dye, it is not
thrown into the water with the other ingredients but its color is separately
extracted thus:—Mix 2 seers dried kachchi lakh in water; rub it well with the
hands until the water assumes a red color; put this water aside; pour on other
water and repeat the process. This may be repeated until all the coloring pro-
perty has been extracted from the lakh. If this water be used with lchatair;
haldi and tezdb, kirmddna is not needed.
The colors gulndr and qirmichi are produced by another method in
Mirzapur. Steep 2 chittaks sajjiin water for a whole night. In the morning heat
the water on the fire but so that it may not come to boiling point. Wash the
wool in this. Next take a ghara of the extracted color oilakh prepared as before
mentioned. Mix in this 4 chittaks of flour paste. Keep this until it ferments.
This requires about a week in hot weather and 2 weeks in cold weather. Steep
the wool in this for 3 days, turning it frequently. Then dye in hhathai dmr
haldi and tczdb boiled up in water, using the same proportions for gulndr
and qirmichi respectively as already stated. This is called mat ha rang.
Black.—Only wool which is naturally black is dyed black, and it is never
dyed siydh bhura, but only siydh gahra. Boil 8 chittaks ddl hara in water, cool
iti and rub in 4 chittaks kasis to the ddl hara with the hands, put in the wool,
boil again for 5 or 6 hours, cool, wash out and dry.
Agrai.—To produce agrai proper take 1 or 1| seers dhdk flowers; steep
them in water; put the wool in this water for 2 or 3 hours; take out the wool;
mix from 4 to 6 chittaks hhathai in the same way, boil the wool in this again;
and when it has taken the color, wash it out and dry it. Agiai bdddmi.—Same
as in the last case, using half the dye stuffs. Agrai khanhkhdshi—as before, reduc-
ing again by one-half. Agrai mahua.—First proceed as for agrai, using one
and a half seers dhdk flowers, half a seer kathay but add to the infusion of hatha s,
decoction of half a seer babul bark.