DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.3906#0202
( 196 )
(crockery of some kind) and enough araq to cover the shavings is poured on
them and stirred up. The pot is closed by night and left open in the sun by
day. The araq is poured off after 24 hours into another vessel and water added.
It is left standing until the water evaporates and the zangdr remains as a
deposit. The copper shavings which were left in the pot when the araq was
poured off are again used as before with more araq and some fresh shavings.
Thus the process goes on for the whole round of the cold weather. The manu-
facture ceases in the hot weather and rains.
A maund of vinegar yields about 25 seers of araq, and this is about the
proportion which is Calculated to go to a seer of copper filings or shavings. Two
maunds of wood (costing about 6 as. in the cold weather) are needed to boil up
the maund of sirka. The outturn of zangar is 1-^ seers, and the average price
is Rs. 3-4 per seer. Thus the expenditure is Rs. 2-15, the price realized
Rs. 4-1, and the profit Re. 1-2.
A deposit of zangdr is also made in one of the processes of the nyariya's
business (vide sub verb.)
Zaidoz.—The gold embroidery of Lucknow is much famed and come
mands a large market. This branch of industry took its rise under the nativ-
court and became so extended as to rival the products of Dehli. The demand
was at first only for goods for the native market, saddle cloths, pillow covers,
masnad takiyai, pardahs, elephant housings, bed covers, panlcahs, topis, shoes,
angarkhas, and other articles of clothing : but there is now a large European
market for slippers, table covers and other goods. One of the special demands
of the native market is for patkas to carry on Muharram processions.
The process of manufacture is simple but interesting. A piece of coarse can-
vas or nainmkh, or mar kin, is sewn to the four sides of a frame, like a Berlin wool
work frame, capable of adjustment by pegs fixed in holes in the sides. This
frame is called kdrchob and this base of inferior cloth is called astar. On the
astav is tacked the velvet, silk, crape, sarcenet, or other ground on which the
gold embroidery is to be worked out, and the pattern is traced on the material
by a masuwwir who uses a brush or pencil made of squirrel's hair and a white
paste of sandal or chandan.
Flowers, etc., bel and buta, are worked with thread and then worked over
with silk. The whole material is then weighed and the gold embroidery ia
begun. This embroidery is all done with salma and sitdra which will be
described hereafter. . On completion the work is again weighed and the whole
weight of the gold (or silver, for the silver embroidery is done in the same way)
is ascertained by deducting the weighs already noted. The gold embroiderers
are paid at rates varying according to skill of the workman from 10 as. to
Re. 1-8 per tolah of precious metal (mdl) used. The master zardoz makes a
total of whole cost and adds to it 4 as. per rupee (minimum rate ever charged)
for profit.
(crockery of some kind) and enough araq to cover the shavings is poured on
them and stirred up. The pot is closed by night and left open in the sun by
day. The araq is poured off after 24 hours into another vessel and water added.
It is left standing until the water evaporates and the zangdr remains as a
deposit. The copper shavings which were left in the pot when the araq was
poured off are again used as before with more araq and some fresh shavings.
Thus the process goes on for the whole round of the cold weather. The manu-
facture ceases in the hot weather and rains.
A maund of vinegar yields about 25 seers of araq, and this is about the
proportion which is Calculated to go to a seer of copper filings or shavings. Two
maunds of wood (costing about 6 as. in the cold weather) are needed to boil up
the maund of sirka. The outturn of zangar is 1-^ seers, and the average price
is Rs. 3-4 per seer. Thus the expenditure is Rs. 2-15, the price realized
Rs. 4-1, and the profit Re. 1-2.
A deposit of zangdr is also made in one of the processes of the nyariya's
business (vide sub verb.)
Zaidoz.—The gold embroidery of Lucknow is much famed and come
mands a large market. This branch of industry took its rise under the nativ-
court and became so extended as to rival the products of Dehli. The demand
was at first only for goods for the native market, saddle cloths, pillow covers,
masnad takiyai, pardahs, elephant housings, bed covers, panlcahs, topis, shoes,
angarkhas, and other articles of clothing : but there is now a large European
market for slippers, table covers and other goods. One of the special demands
of the native market is for patkas to carry on Muharram processions.
The process of manufacture is simple but interesting. A piece of coarse can-
vas or nainmkh, or mar kin, is sewn to the four sides of a frame, like a Berlin wool
work frame, capable of adjustment by pegs fixed in holes in the sides. This
frame is called kdrchob and this base of inferior cloth is called astar. On the
astav is tacked the velvet, silk, crape, sarcenet, or other ground on which the
gold embroidery is to be worked out, and the pattern is traced on the material
by a masuwwir who uses a brush or pencil made of squirrel's hair and a white
paste of sandal or chandan.
Flowers, etc., bel and buta, are worked with thread and then worked over
with silk. The whole material is then weighed and the gold embroidery ia
begun. This embroidery is all done with salma and sitdra which will be
described hereafter. . On completion the work is again weighed and the whole
weight of the gold (or silver, for the silver embroidery is done in the same way)
is ascertained by deducting the weighs already noted. The gold embroiderers
are paid at rates varying according to skill of the workman from 10 as. to
Re. 1-8 per tolah of precious metal (mdl) used. The master zardoz makes a
total of whole cost and adds to it 4 as. per rupee (minimum rate ever charged)
for profit.