DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.62133#0070
54
AN ART-STUDENT IN MUNICH.
its votaries. There were groups of pure Tyroleans, with
their green sugar-loaf hats adorned with golden cord and
tassels, tufts of feathers or artificial flowers • there were
many semi-Tyrolean dresses, and vast numbers of women
wearing the queer, heavy, Tartar-looking cap of badger-skin,
peculiar, I believe, to the Ober-Ammergau district; there
were boddices and petticoats and head-dresses of every colour
of the rainbow,—red, green, and blue, being however pre-
dominant; there was a considerable sprinkling also of the
swallow-tailed gold and silver Munich cap, and no lack of
red umbrellas. How gay this winding multitude made the
mountain, you can well imagine ! Slowly and painfully
behind each group ascended the poor tired horses, dragging
the skeleton-like peasant's cart, Stell-wagen or Ein-spann,
as it might be.
Ever and anon some frightfully deformed or diseased
wretch would solicit alms, which were as freely given by
the poor peasants as they were eagerly demanded by the
miserable beggars. These disgusting fungi of Catholicism
were a strange comment on the scene. My companion
and I, in our Regent Street dresses, and with our Protestant
hearts, seemed singularly out of place in a crowd of simple
peasants on then’ way to a miracle-play; we felt out of
keeping with them and their child-like faith; we drew in-
ferences, and made comments ; they went on in that earnest
simplicity, and with all that primitive piety, which is oner’s
idea of peasant life as it exists in the poems of Uhland and
the tales of Auerbach.
After having refreshed their souls at the church on the
summit of the mountain, and their bodies at the inn, our
pilgrims mounted their various vehicles and pursued their
way; the road to Ober-Ammergau becoming more animated
the nearer we approached it.
The first view of Ober-Ammergau somewhat disappointed
AN ART-STUDENT IN MUNICH.
its votaries. There were groups of pure Tyroleans, with
their green sugar-loaf hats adorned with golden cord and
tassels, tufts of feathers or artificial flowers • there were
many semi-Tyrolean dresses, and vast numbers of women
wearing the queer, heavy, Tartar-looking cap of badger-skin,
peculiar, I believe, to the Ober-Ammergau district; there
were boddices and petticoats and head-dresses of every colour
of the rainbow,—red, green, and blue, being however pre-
dominant; there was a considerable sprinkling also of the
swallow-tailed gold and silver Munich cap, and no lack of
red umbrellas. How gay this winding multitude made the
mountain, you can well imagine ! Slowly and painfully
behind each group ascended the poor tired horses, dragging
the skeleton-like peasant's cart, Stell-wagen or Ein-spann,
as it might be.
Ever and anon some frightfully deformed or diseased
wretch would solicit alms, which were as freely given by
the poor peasants as they were eagerly demanded by the
miserable beggars. These disgusting fungi of Catholicism
were a strange comment on the scene. My companion
and I, in our Regent Street dresses, and with our Protestant
hearts, seemed singularly out of place in a crowd of simple
peasants on then’ way to a miracle-play; we felt out of
keeping with them and their child-like faith; we drew in-
ferences, and made comments ; they went on in that earnest
simplicity, and with all that primitive piety, which is oner’s
idea of peasant life as it exists in the poems of Uhland and
the tales of Auerbach.
After having refreshed their souls at the church on the
summit of the mountain, and their bodies at the inn, our
pilgrims mounted their various vehicles and pursued their
way; the road to Ober-Ammergau becoming more animated
the nearer we approached it.
The first view of Ober-Ammergau somewhat disappointed