DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.5295#0163
130 TRAVELS IN EGYPT, NUBIA,
to have less energy than those in Upper Egypt. The in-
habitants of Damietta are considered more hostile to the
Franks than in any other part of Egypt; perhaps tradition
may have handed down the invasion and defeat of St. Louis
in that neighbourhood; and the cause of dislike, forgotten
in the present day, has left the effect in the disposition of
the people.
On the evening of my arrival, after supper, which is inva-
riably at eight o'clock with the Levantines, and equally
abundant as the dinner, I was attended by the vice-consul
to the divan of the aga, to whom I had previously announced
my intention of visiting him. This was held at the custom-
house ; and it being the time of the Ramazan, business was
transacted only at night. The aga was sitting at one corner
of a matted room, raised above the rest by cushions; he was
surrounded by Turks and Arabs : the doors were guarded
by eight or ten Albanians: the whole in mute attention to
the guitar of a Turk, who accompanied it with his voice;
which, though more harmonious than I had usually heard
in the East, was spoiled by the performer increasing its
loudness beyond his powers. He sung a love ditty; and
the aga seemed to be in ecstasy, taking little notice of me
till the music had ceased. After pipes and coffee were pro-
duced, he inquired of me respecting my rank, pay, and
reason for travelling; and expressed surprise that the English
to have less energy than those in Upper Egypt. The in-
habitants of Damietta are considered more hostile to the
Franks than in any other part of Egypt; perhaps tradition
may have handed down the invasion and defeat of St. Louis
in that neighbourhood; and the cause of dislike, forgotten
in the present day, has left the effect in the disposition of
the people.
On the evening of my arrival, after supper, which is inva-
riably at eight o'clock with the Levantines, and equally
abundant as the dinner, I was attended by the vice-consul
to the divan of the aga, to whom I had previously announced
my intention of visiting him. This was held at the custom-
house ; and it being the time of the Ramazan, business was
transacted only at night. The aga was sitting at one corner
of a matted room, raised above the rest by cushions; he was
surrounded by Turks and Arabs : the doors were guarded
by eight or ten Albanians: the whole in mute attention to
the guitar of a Turk, who accompanied it with his voice;
which, though more harmonious than I had usually heard
in the East, was spoiled by the performer increasing its
loudness beyond his powers. He sung a love ditty; and
the aga seemed to be in ecstasy, taking little notice of me
till the music had ceased. After pipes and coffee were pro-
duced, he inquired of me respecting my rank, pay, and
reason for travelling; and expressed surprise that the English