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242 TRAVELS IN EGYPT, NUBIA,

be exposed to much opposition, and will only succeed be-
having large funds to meet every exigency to which he is
liable. Much of the trade is contraband, particularly corn:
and it is necessary to keep on good terms with the aga and
officers employed at the custom-house by presents, the best
and only means of ensuring favour in any competition with
Levantines.

In the cemetery of the convent of St. Lazarus at La Scala,
I saw the tombstones of English who formerly resided at
Larnica; but their date is not later than 1750.

The sickness that exists in the "country during the hot
months caused the presence of a vast number of medical
men, whose abilities may be appreciated when the reader
hears that one of the most eminent of them took me on one
side to question me relative to the effects of James's powder,
which I had recommended and given in a slight case of fever.
I was asked, with great seriousness, whether it was not com-
posed of pulverised cranium of the human head. It was
a medicine not known except by report amongst them.

To guard against the effects of the mal aria, a Euro-
pean must leave the plains in the month of June, seek the
mountains, and not quit them till October: without this
precaution he must inevitably be seized with illness, and
often is carried off by the fevers that rage with great violence
during the hot months.
 
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