DOI Seite / Zitierlink:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.11715#0061
ALEXANDRIA TO CAIRG.
The platform of Gizeh abounds in tombs of various ages, and more than a hundred
have been opened by Lepsius. One adorned with pillars, and brilliantly painted, was
the resting-place of a Prince Merhet, a priest, and, as Lepsius thinks ''more than
probable," a son, of Chufu ; he is described as " superintendent of the royal buildings."
From these tombs the enthusiastic explorer says—" I could almost write a court and
state directory of the time of King Cheops or Chephren."1 In another row of tombs
Lepsius imagines he has discovered the remains of the Fifth Dynasty, hitherto sup-
posed to have reigned at Elephantine contemporaneously with the Fourth at Memphis;
but we must certainly hesitate to accept his conclusions, when he tells us " these are
formed into one civilized epoch, dating about the year 4000 B.C." 1 The common fault
of Egyptologists is to assume a chronology in their own minds, and then attach it to
the monuments, as if it were inscribed on them in unmistakable characters. Lepsius
acknowledges that he has " not found a single cartouche that can be safely assigned to
a period previous to the Fourth Dynasty. The builders of the Great Pyramid seem to
assert their right to form the commencement of monumental history." The date of
his " civilized epoch," therefore, will depend on that of the Pyramids, which no sober
chronology places higher than 2400 B.C., while much may be said for a later date.
The ascent of the Great Pyramid is a rather laborious task. The great blocks __
of stone form a series of steps of unequal height, varying from two to four or five » ^
feet. A tribe of Arabs occupying a village at the foot claim the right to assist
travellers. Their sheikh levies a tribute of two shillings upon each person
making the ascent, and appoints two or three of his people to help him up. (
The difficulty is thus materially diminished, and the magnificant view from the^<^
summit—even finer, in some respects, than that from the Citadel—-amply re-
pays the traveler for the toil he has undergone. The desert stretches to the verge of
the horizon. A narrow valley, inclosed by the Libyan and the Mokattam Mountains,
runs to the southward. In the center of this valley the noble river is seen winding
along, with a belt of verdure on either side. The emerald green of the cultivated soil
contrasts finely with the red of the mountains and the tawny sand of the desert. The
pyramids of Sakkara, the palm groves of Mitrahenny, Cairo, with its innumerable min-
arets and cupolas, and the Citadel seated on its rocky height above the city, make up
a picture which can scarcely be equalled, and which once seen can never be forgotten.
It is difficult, however, to abandon oneself to the full enjoyment of the scene. Crowds
of Arabs follow the party to the summit, and pester them with entreaties for backsheesh,
or with clamorous recommendations of the forged antiquites they have for sale. They
are merry, good-humored fellows, quick at taking a joke, and great as the annoyance
may be, it is impossible to lose one's temper. I tried the effect of a retort upon them
by asking backsheesh in return. One ragged scoundrel drew himself up with a digni-
fied air, and putting his hand into some mysterious pocket of a cotton shirt, the only
garment he possessed, drew out a small coin worth about half a farthing. Putting it
into my hand with a condescending gesture, he folded his arms and walked away, amidst
shouts of laughter from his comrades. To one of the dealers in forged antiquities, I
said, " I shan't buy those ; they were made in Birmingham." A rival trader plucked
me by the coat, and said, " No, Mr. Doctor, his were not made in Birmingham ; his were
made in London;" and then proceeded to vouch for his own as bono anticos. One
1 Letters, iv.
57
The platform of Gizeh abounds in tombs of various ages, and more than a hundred
have been opened by Lepsius. One adorned with pillars, and brilliantly painted, was
the resting-place of a Prince Merhet, a priest, and, as Lepsius thinks ''more than
probable," a son, of Chufu ; he is described as " superintendent of the royal buildings."
From these tombs the enthusiastic explorer says—" I could almost write a court and
state directory of the time of King Cheops or Chephren."1 In another row of tombs
Lepsius imagines he has discovered the remains of the Fifth Dynasty, hitherto sup-
posed to have reigned at Elephantine contemporaneously with the Fourth at Memphis;
but we must certainly hesitate to accept his conclusions, when he tells us " these are
formed into one civilized epoch, dating about the year 4000 B.C." 1 The common fault
of Egyptologists is to assume a chronology in their own minds, and then attach it to
the monuments, as if it were inscribed on them in unmistakable characters. Lepsius
acknowledges that he has " not found a single cartouche that can be safely assigned to
a period previous to the Fourth Dynasty. The builders of the Great Pyramid seem to
assert their right to form the commencement of monumental history." The date of
his " civilized epoch," therefore, will depend on that of the Pyramids, which no sober
chronology places higher than 2400 B.C., while much may be said for a later date.
The ascent of the Great Pyramid is a rather laborious task. The great blocks __
of stone form a series of steps of unequal height, varying from two to four or five » ^
feet. A tribe of Arabs occupying a village at the foot claim the right to assist
travellers. Their sheikh levies a tribute of two shillings upon each person
making the ascent, and appoints two or three of his people to help him up. (
The difficulty is thus materially diminished, and the magnificant view from the^<^
summit—even finer, in some respects, than that from the Citadel—-amply re-
pays the traveler for the toil he has undergone. The desert stretches to the verge of
the horizon. A narrow valley, inclosed by the Libyan and the Mokattam Mountains,
runs to the southward. In the center of this valley the noble river is seen winding
along, with a belt of verdure on either side. The emerald green of the cultivated soil
contrasts finely with the red of the mountains and the tawny sand of the desert. The
pyramids of Sakkara, the palm groves of Mitrahenny, Cairo, with its innumerable min-
arets and cupolas, and the Citadel seated on its rocky height above the city, make up
a picture which can scarcely be equalled, and which once seen can never be forgotten.
It is difficult, however, to abandon oneself to the full enjoyment of the scene. Crowds
of Arabs follow the party to the summit, and pester them with entreaties for backsheesh,
or with clamorous recommendations of the forged antiquites they have for sale. They
are merry, good-humored fellows, quick at taking a joke, and great as the annoyance
may be, it is impossible to lose one's temper. I tried the effect of a retort upon them
by asking backsheesh in return. One ragged scoundrel drew himself up with a digni-
fied air, and putting his hand into some mysterious pocket of a cotton shirt, the only
garment he possessed, drew out a small coin worth about half a farthing. Putting it
into my hand with a condescending gesture, he folded his arms and walked away, amidst
shouts of laughter from his comrades. To one of the dealers in forged antiquities, I
said, " I shan't buy those ; they were made in Birmingham." A rival trader plucked
me by the coat, and said, " No, Mr. Doctor, his were not made in Birmingham ; his were
made in London;" and then proceeded to vouch for his own as bono anticos. One
1 Letters, iv.
57