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COWARA. 311

this place was very pleasant. The valley was broad
and the soil rich. Several men were engaged plow-
ing and sowing. Fruit trees and vineyards were
abundant, and olive groves spotted the valley and
sides of the mountains. Flocks and herds were nu-
merous, and every thing indicated plenty of the good
things. Pursuing our course, the same luxuriant val-
ley extended before us. <

At about 7 o'clock, P. M., we reached the small
village of Cowara. As it had now become quite dark,
we concluded to stop and seek some kind of lodging
for the night. On entering it, we found this village
a miserable place, and we could find no one who
appeared to be a head man among the inhabitants.
Notwithstanding all our servants could do for us with
our letter from the governor of Jerusalem, we were
apprehensive that we should have to lie in the open
air. At length we were led to an old ruined mosque,
into which a number of Arab mulateers had crawled
and taken possession before us. We had no other
alternative left us, but to crawl in and share it with
them. We procured a kind of lamp, spread our blan-
kets on the filthy floor, and concluded to bury our
wants as soon as possible in calm refreshing sleep.
Four villagers were employed to keep watch, and soon
all was lost in the forgctfulness of slumber.

Morning found us well and much refreshed. Coffee
was made and our stock of provisions furnished us
another meal. We took a view of the village, and
found it composed of miserable stone huts and very
filthy. In the midst of a soil capable of yielding its
abundance, these people were living in indolence and
 
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