DOI article:
Gutkowska-Rychlewska, Maria; Żygulski, Zdzisław [Transl.]: The pattens from Pyrzyce and the mediaeval fashion of footwear: summary
DOI Page / Citation link:https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.24580#0047
Maria Gutkowska-Rychlewska
THE PATTENS FROM PYRZYCE AND THE MEDIAEVAL FASHION
OF FOOTWEAR
Summary
Three single pattens were found in 1963 in Poland during the reconstruction
of gothic walls of the church at Pyrzyce (near Szczecin). They are madę of light
linden wood. They are of different size: the two larger, małe type, (fig. 29, 30) are
26 and 27 long, 9 and 9,8 cm wide, the third one, female or boy type, 25 cm long
and 7,6 cm wide. One of the pattens (fig. 30) has a leather toe to prevent the foot
slipping. Leather straps of the patens are fixed by hobnails with iron washers
(fig. 31). Strap length is regulated with iron plugs (fig. 31 a, 31 d). In their shape
they are very similar to the pattens known from the Arnolfini portrait by Jan van
Eyck (National Gallery, London) after the gothic fashion observed in the court of
Burgundy about 1430. The 19th century authors dealing in historie costume touched
pretty schematically the question of gothic footwear. They neglected the changes
in shoes proportions of the 14th and of the 15th centuries. In Europę the elongated
form of shoes was adopted as early as the 12th century in time of crusades under
the influence of Syrian pointed shoes. From that period we have their name polai-
wes. As Poland was sometimes named PotRame in the mediaeval sources, some
historians of costume suggested the Polish origin of that kind of footwear. But
the second meaning of the word poiRame — the ship prow (rostram) — was negle-
cted. In the Polish and Bohemian sources of the second half of the 14th century
we find such denominations like calce! or soHRares rosfł-ati without any reference
to the Polish origin of the fashion.
The Pyrzyce pattens, as well as the preserved fragments of Polish shoes about
1430 (fig. 34) show that they were built separately for the right and left foot. The
some may be observed in the gothic wooden form used for modelling shoes
(fig. 35abc). Its toe is moderately pointed.
The Pyrzyce pattens were meant as the protection against mud. They were in
use even later, in the 15th century Poland, madę of leather (fig. 37). But they were
not adopted to the ceremoniał garment of the court as it was in Burgundy of Phi-
lip the Good and even later in the second half of the 15th century.
(tłum. Zdzisław Żygulski jun.)
THE PATTENS FROM PYRZYCE AND THE MEDIAEVAL FASHION
OF FOOTWEAR
Summary
Three single pattens were found in 1963 in Poland during the reconstruction
of gothic walls of the church at Pyrzyce (near Szczecin). They are madę of light
linden wood. They are of different size: the two larger, małe type, (fig. 29, 30) are
26 and 27 long, 9 and 9,8 cm wide, the third one, female or boy type, 25 cm long
and 7,6 cm wide. One of the pattens (fig. 30) has a leather toe to prevent the foot
slipping. Leather straps of the patens are fixed by hobnails with iron washers
(fig. 31). Strap length is regulated with iron plugs (fig. 31 a, 31 d). In their shape
they are very similar to the pattens known from the Arnolfini portrait by Jan van
Eyck (National Gallery, London) after the gothic fashion observed in the court of
Burgundy about 1430. The 19th century authors dealing in historie costume touched
pretty schematically the question of gothic footwear. They neglected the changes
in shoes proportions of the 14th and of the 15th centuries. In Europę the elongated
form of shoes was adopted as early as the 12th century in time of crusades under
the influence of Syrian pointed shoes. From that period we have their name polai-
wes. As Poland was sometimes named PotRame in the mediaeval sources, some
historians of costume suggested the Polish origin of that kind of footwear. But
the second meaning of the word poiRame — the ship prow (rostram) — was negle-
cted. In the Polish and Bohemian sources of the second half of the 14th century
we find such denominations like calce! or soHRares rosfł-ati without any reference
to the Polish origin of the fashion.
The Pyrzyce pattens, as well as the preserved fragments of Polish shoes about
1430 (fig. 34) show that they were built separately for the right and left foot. The
some may be observed in the gothic wooden form used for modelling shoes
(fig. 35abc). Its toe is moderately pointed.
The Pyrzyce pattens were meant as the protection against mud. They were in
use even later, in the 15th century Poland, madę of leather (fig. 37). But they were
not adopted to the ceremoniał garment of the court as it was in Burgundy of Phi-
lip the Good and even later in the second half of the 15th century.
(tłum. Zdzisław Żygulski jun.)