Smith, William: A smaller dictionary of Greek and Roman antiquities (London, 1871)

TOGA.

380

TOGA.

can spare an extra length, but in the statue
of a priest in the Louvre the head is covered
at the expense of the umbo, which has en-
tirely disappeared. Fig. 0 is intended to
show the interlacing and arrangement of the
toga by following the course of the straight
edge alone from a to d. In many ancient sta-

Fig. 6.

tues the sleeves and folds of the tunic, being
very full, are apt to be confounded with the
rest, but in the best style of art this is not
the case. Quintilian cautions his orators
against these incumbrances. A difference in
size and fulness of the toga, modified according
to the rank of the wearer, may be detected in
coins and sculpture, but in all cases the mode
of adjustment appears to be the same.—One
mode of wearing the toga was the Cinctus Ga-
binus. It consisted in forming a part of the
toga itself into a girdle, by drawing its outer
edge round the body and tying it in a knot
in front, and at the same time covering the
head with another portion of the garment.
It was worn by persons offering sacrifices,
by the consul when he declared war, and by
devoted persons, as in the case of Decius.
Its origin was Etruscan, as its name im-
plies. Persons wearing this dress were said
to be procincti (or incincti) cinctu (or ritu)
Gabino. —The colour of the toga worn by
men {toga virilis) was generally white, that
is, the natural colour of white wool. Hence
it was called pura or restimentum purum, in
opposition to the praetexta mentioned below.
A brighter white was given to the toga of
candidates for offices (candidati from their
toga Candida) by rubbing it with chalk.
There is an allusion to this custom in the
phrase cretata ambitio. White togas are
often mentioned as worn at festivals, which
does not imply that they were not worn com-
monly, but that new or fresh-cleaned togas
were first put on at festivals. The toga was
kept white and clean by the fuller. When
this was neglected, the toga was called sor-
dida, and those who wore such garments
sordidati. This dress (with disarranged hair

and other marks of disorder about the per-
son) was worn by accused persons, as in the
case of Cicero. The toga pulln, which was
of the natural colour of black wool, was worn
in private mourning, and sometimes also by
artificers and others of the lower orders.—
The toga picta, which was ornamented with
Phrygian embroidery, was worn by generals
in triumphs [Triumphus], and under the
emperors by the consuls, and by the praetors
when they celebrated the games. It was
also called Capitolina. The toga pahnata
was a kind of toga picta.-—The toga praetexta
had a broad purple border. It was worn
with the Bulla, by children of both sexes.
It was also worn by magistrates, both those
of Rome, and those of the colonies and muni-
cipia; by the sacerdotes, and by persons en-
gaged in sacred rites or paying vows. Among
those who possessed the jus togae praetcxtae
habendae, the following may be more par-
ticularly mentioned : the dictator, the con-
suls, the praetors (who laid aside the prae-
texta when about to condemn a Roman citi-
zen to death), the augurs (who, however,
are supposed by some to have worn the tra-
bea), the decemviri sacris faciundis, the
acdilcs, the triumviri cpuloncs, the senators
on festival days, the magistri collegii, and
the magistri vicorum when celebrating games.
In the case of the tribuni plebis, censors,
and quaestors, there is some doubt upon the
subject. The toga praetexta is said to have
been derived from the Etruscans, and to have
been first adopted, with the latus clavus
[Clavus Latus], by Tullus Hostilius as the
royal robe, whence its use by the magistrates
in the republic. The toga praetexta and the
bulla aurea were first given to boys in the
case of the son of Tarquinius Priscus, who,
at the age of fourteen, in the Sabine war,
slew an enemy with his own hand. Re-
specting the leaving off of the toga praetexta,
and the assumption of the toga virilis, see
Impubes and Clavus Latus. The occasion
was celebrated with great rejoicings by the
friends of the youth, who attended him in a
solemn procession to the Forum and Capi-
tol. This assumption of the toga virilis was
called tirocinium fori, as being the young
man's introduction to public life. Girls wore
the praetexta till their marriage.—The trabea
was a toga ornamented with purple horizon-
tal stripes. There were three kinds of tra-
beae ; one wholly of purple, which was sacred
to the gods, another of purple and white,
and another of purple and saffron, which be-
longed to augurs. The purple and white
trabea was a royal robe, and is assigned to
the Latin and early Roman kings, especially
to Romulus. It was worn by the consuls in