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JOURNEY UP THE NILE,

65

" the star-spangled banner" (made by an Arab tai-
lor) floating above me, I commenced my journey
on the Nile. It is necessary here for every stran-
ger to place himself under the flag of his country,
else his boat and men are liable to be taken at any
moment by the officers of the pacha. It was the
first time I had myself ever raised the banner of
my country, and I felt a peculiar pride in the con-
sciousness that it could protect me so far from
home.

We started, as when I first embarked upon the
Nile, with a fair wind, at sunset, and again to the
gentle tap of the Arab drum we passed the great
pyramids of Ghizeh, and the giant monuments of
Schara and Dashodr. Long after sunset their
dark outline was distinctly visible over the desert j
I sat on the deck of my boat till their vast masses
became lost in the darkness. My situation was
novel and excitingrand my spirits were elate with
curious expectation * but with the morrow came a
very essential change. A feeling of gloom came
over me when I found the wind against my prog-
ress ; but the current was still running obstinately
the same way as before, and to be so soon deserted
by the element that I needed, gave a rather dreary
aspect to the long journey before me. That day,
however, we contrived to do something; my boat
being small, my men were almost continually
ashore, with ropes around their breasts, towing;
and occasionally,, rowing across from side to side
■would give us the advantage of a bend in th@

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