DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.4855#0011
6
ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF LYUIA AND PHRYGIA.
Gherris.
Return to
Kiutaieh.
Khoslujah,
Ch
lnganies.
Kurkli.
consisted of a large circular enclosure surmounted by a dome formed by branches covered with felt,
but open at the top. This contrivance makes it very light and airy, quite different from what the
outside promises. These people resemble very much, both in features and complexion, the natives of
our own islands — some of the females even had red hair and blue eyes. One of the men undertook to
conduct us to what he considered the grand object of our expedition ; and we accordingly proceeded in a
direction of west by north towards the village of Gherris. Our road was chiefly in ascent through a fine
forest of pines, and in two or three places I observed the appearance of lava. On emerging from the
wood, we found ourselves on a small plain in which was a steep white rock full of sepulchral grottoes
and perforations, which our guide pointed out as the object we were in quest of. However, we were
soon undeceived, for the rock was of too soft a nature long to retain any sculptures that might have been
engraved on it; so, after a fruitless search for some other monument of interest, we made for Gherris,
which we reached at nightfall, after a ride of nearly five hours from Affghan-kin. We were hospitably
entertained by the Aga, and, as is usual on such occasions, were visited by all the notables of the
village. Amongst these was the Imam, who, on learning the motive of our expedition, informed us that
he was a native of the village of Gombet-li, only a couple of hours distant from the Yazeli-kuya, or
sculptured rock; and he recommended us by all means to make that village our head-quarters.
Of this unexpected and truly welcome intelligence we immediately prepared to avail ourselves, but
in this good purpose we were thwarted by the obstinacy and perverseness of our surajee, who would
neither listen to remonstrance nor yield to menace; he even began to abuse the Yuruk for shewing us,
as he asserted, all the secrets of the country, threatening to report him to the government at Kiutaieh
Under these circumstances, although he was in the sequel obliged to beg our pardon, considering that
we had already lost two days, and that we were not prepared for so long an absence from Kiutaieh, we
decided on returning, in order to concert measures for proceeding on our journey and visiting
Gombet-li. In the morning I copied a long and rather interesting inscription from a stone in the
village, said to have been brought from Sash-kupri. I noticed a baptismal font, also some excavations
hard by the village, which appeared to have been small Christian chapels. We reached Kiutaieh in
about seven hours, taking a lower road than the one by which we came, and crossing the Pursek by
a bridge distant about an hour and a quarter from the town.
On Tuesday, the 23d May, we started at an early hour, our course lying north-east. After
a ride of an hour and a half, we crossed the Pursek by a small bridge near a village, with a tumulus
to the right. Half an hour afterwards, we left the plain, and ascended gently through a country
with a few dwarf oaks and pines; and directing our course hence south-east for two hours through
a hilly pine country, in another hour we crossed a small clear rivulet, and ascended to the village of
Khoslujah. The road was very good all the way, but we saw no inhabitants after leaving the plain.
We had to remain here the night, as there is no village on the road for a great distance, and the
country is very intricate. There are several peaks of red jasper near this.
Wednesday 24th. We were already on our way at a quarter past five, our road lying through a
beautiful country. After three hours, we began to descend close to a small village, the only one
we saw. Following the course of the river to the north-east, after one hour we came upon an ancient
burying-ground full of cippi. Proceeding onwards, we met several Arabas with buffaloes; and after
another hour passed a cemetery with still more numerous vestiges, then through extensive pasture-
grounds, and roads somewhat indistinct; mistaking our way by following an Araba track, we lost an
hour and a half. Thence, passing through a gipsy, or Chingani, encampment of seven or eight tents,
the people chiefly occupied in rearing horses, at half-past two we reached our halting-place, the village
of Kurkh, after a ride of upwards of nine hours, having tasted nothing since the previous evening.
ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF LYUIA AND PHRYGIA.
Gherris.
Return to
Kiutaieh.
Khoslujah,
Ch
lnganies.
Kurkli.
consisted of a large circular enclosure surmounted by a dome formed by branches covered with felt,
but open at the top. This contrivance makes it very light and airy, quite different from what the
outside promises. These people resemble very much, both in features and complexion, the natives of
our own islands — some of the females even had red hair and blue eyes. One of the men undertook to
conduct us to what he considered the grand object of our expedition ; and we accordingly proceeded in a
direction of west by north towards the village of Gherris. Our road was chiefly in ascent through a fine
forest of pines, and in two or three places I observed the appearance of lava. On emerging from the
wood, we found ourselves on a small plain in which was a steep white rock full of sepulchral grottoes
and perforations, which our guide pointed out as the object we were in quest of. However, we were
soon undeceived, for the rock was of too soft a nature long to retain any sculptures that might have been
engraved on it; so, after a fruitless search for some other monument of interest, we made for Gherris,
which we reached at nightfall, after a ride of nearly five hours from Affghan-kin. We were hospitably
entertained by the Aga, and, as is usual on such occasions, were visited by all the notables of the
village. Amongst these was the Imam, who, on learning the motive of our expedition, informed us that
he was a native of the village of Gombet-li, only a couple of hours distant from the Yazeli-kuya, or
sculptured rock; and he recommended us by all means to make that village our head-quarters.
Of this unexpected and truly welcome intelligence we immediately prepared to avail ourselves, but
in this good purpose we were thwarted by the obstinacy and perverseness of our surajee, who would
neither listen to remonstrance nor yield to menace; he even began to abuse the Yuruk for shewing us,
as he asserted, all the secrets of the country, threatening to report him to the government at Kiutaieh
Under these circumstances, although he was in the sequel obliged to beg our pardon, considering that
we had already lost two days, and that we were not prepared for so long an absence from Kiutaieh, we
decided on returning, in order to concert measures for proceeding on our journey and visiting
Gombet-li. In the morning I copied a long and rather interesting inscription from a stone in the
village, said to have been brought from Sash-kupri. I noticed a baptismal font, also some excavations
hard by the village, which appeared to have been small Christian chapels. We reached Kiutaieh in
about seven hours, taking a lower road than the one by which we came, and crossing the Pursek by
a bridge distant about an hour and a quarter from the town.
On Tuesday, the 23d May, we started at an early hour, our course lying north-east. After
a ride of an hour and a half, we crossed the Pursek by a small bridge near a village, with a tumulus
to the right. Half an hour afterwards, we left the plain, and ascended gently through a country
with a few dwarf oaks and pines; and directing our course hence south-east for two hours through
a hilly pine country, in another hour we crossed a small clear rivulet, and ascended to the village of
Khoslujah. The road was very good all the way, but we saw no inhabitants after leaving the plain.
We had to remain here the night, as there is no village on the road for a great distance, and the
country is very intricate. There are several peaks of red jasper near this.
Wednesday 24th. We were already on our way at a quarter past five, our road lying through a
beautiful country. After three hours, we began to descend close to a small village, the only one
we saw. Following the course of the river to the north-east, after one hour we came upon an ancient
burying-ground full of cippi. Proceeding onwards, we met several Arabas with buffaloes; and after
another hour passed a cemetery with still more numerous vestiges, then through extensive pasture-
grounds, and roads somewhat indistinct; mistaking our way by following an Araba track, we lost an
hour and a half. Thence, passing through a gipsy, or Chingani, encampment of seven or eight tents,
the people chiefly occupied in rearing horses, at half-past two we reached our halting-place, the village
of Kurkh, after a ride of upwards of nine hours, having tasted nothing since the previous evening.