Warburton, Eliot
Travels in Egypt and the Holy Land, or, The crescent and the cross: comprising the romance and realities of eastern travel — Philadelphia, 1859

Page: 233
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dragoman. These men offer themselves to you at Malta in swarms, but I
am inclined to think that an Egyptian is preferable in his own country. It
is well to engage your dragoman only on the recommendation of some Euro-
pean on whom you can rely. A Maltese dragoman charges a dollar a day :
an Egyptian half that sum. You require two servants exclusive of the crew,
one te cook, the other to attend you on your expeditions.

On returning to Cairo from the Upper Nile, the best route to Syria is
through the desert by Suez and Mount Sinai, to Petra and Hebron. Our
consul is the only person to be depended upon for making arrangements with
the Bedouin to conduct you through the desert. The journey as far as He-
bron or Jerusalem is performed on dromedaries ; thenceforward on horses.
Besides the interest of this route, you avoid a fortnight's quarantine, which
you would have to undergo at Beyrout, in sailing thither from an Egyptian

The winter climate of Egypt is perhaps the most delightful in the world,
and the mode of travelling admirably adapted for invalids. Those to whom
health is the chief object, may sail from Southampton on the 3rd of October,
and penetrate 1,000 miles into Africa by the 1st of December, without
greater exertion than is necessary to step on board a boat. The attention ia
pleasantly occupied ; all the objects of interest are close to the river; and by
the 1st of February the invalid may find himself on his way to England,
having altogether escaped winter, and found in the course of his 6,000 miles'
travel such repose as is vainly to be sought for in the tranquillest Western

If you purpose only to visit Egypt, books are almost the only necessary
you need take from England. Guns and wire cartridges for the various wild-
fowl ; rifles and iron bullets for wild boars and crocodiles will suggest them-
selves to the sportsman. A camera lucida is of great use in taking a view of
the complicated details of Egyptian architecture in a short time. Powder,
books, and stationery are the three great essentials for the Egyptian travel-
ler ; they are scarcely to be procured after leaving Malta.

The traveller who proposes to visit Syria should in the first place endeav-
our to procure the Sultan's firman, which will be sent from Constantinopls
to meet him at Cairo, Jerusalem, or Beyrout. An English saddle and hol-
sters, spurs and pistols, are indispensable. A small strong canteen is the
only other English article of much importance. I am inclined to think thai
with regard to dress there is nothing like the turban of the country, a blousf
of coloured camlet, (not green, which sometimes provokes indignation, as th
sacred colour of the Moslem) a pair of loose doe-skin pantaloons, and hali
or Hessian boots, of tan leather, (black attracts the sun, and can't well b
cleaned) will make the most convenient and comfortable costume.

The most convenient commissariat consists of maccaroni, rice, and pre
served meats, which should be taken from England in small packages. The)
are to be had, however, at Alexandria and Beyrout. Wine, porter, aiu
liqueurs should be bought at Malta : the latter, particularly maraschino, ar»
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