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234 PYRAMIDS AND PROGRESS.

cabin it had become vivid green, red, blue, etc. I am afraid I must admit
to colour blindness, for to my eyes it seemed to be always an unwholesome
greenish grey, rather like a scorpion in tint, and with a curious eye mounted
on a swivel arrangement. The eyes acted independently, and one looked at
the floor when the other was studiously contemplating the ceiling. The beast
had its uses, for when seemingly asleep its long tongue would dart out about
two inches to seize a fly or a mosquito that had strayed into its master's cabin.
A companion whose, only food is flies and mosquitoes would be a welcome one,
but chameleons are rare, while the plague of flies has never been removed
from Egypt.

The battlefield of Toski, not far from Korosko, is about six miles from the
river in the western desert. Here, in 1891, Sir Francis Grenfell defeated the
Dervish leader El-Nejumi, and destroyed or scattered his army, taking many
prisoners. The desert is still strewn with their skeletons. Their leader was slain
on the field. Among the corpses was found an infant, unharmed, the son of
Nejumi. He was taken to Cairo, and is now a fine, tall, handsome boy, care-
fully brought up as a ward of the Government. Let us hope he may not
turn out another Arabi. This was the first victory of Egyptian troops led by
British officers. Had the Dervishes not been interrupted in their progress the
invaders would have sacked and burned Assouan, and after that nothing could
have stayed their progress to Cairo, for the people would have joined them
had religious fanaticism proved successful. The talent and pluck of the British
leader inspired confidence in the Egyptian soldiers, and ever since that day they
have never given the slightest cause to doubt their efficiency under proper
leadership.

I purchased at Korosko a shield of rhinoceros hide, spears and javelins, a
sword, and several daggers that were picked up on the battlefield of Toski.
One of the daggers is made out of an ancient bayonet. The sword is a
Tübingen blade, about 100 years old. Many of the chief Emirs wore chain
mail, dating in all probability from the days of the Crusaders, and helmets
which may have been worn by the Knights Templars.

After Korosko we pass more small temples, all on the left bank of the river,
some with cartouches of Ramses II. (1330 B.c.), but at Amada we find those
of Usertesen III. (2660 b.c.), Thothmes II. (1440 b.c.), and Amenhotep III.
(1400 b.c.), all of the Twelfth and the Eighteenth Dynasties, and also traces
of Christian worship having been held in these primitive temples of earlier faiths.
Then precipitous cliffs rise above the river and an ancient fortress crowns
them. This is Ibrim, where we find the name of Tirhakah, the Ethiopian king
of Egypt mentioned in our Bible (2 Kings). From an Arab I got a very fine
 
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