DOI Seite / Zitierlink:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.1398#0206
PLATE 167.
JEWELLEEY,
BY MR. PHILLIPS, MESSES. LONDON & EYDEK, AND ME. ATTENBOROUGH, LONDON.
TTTE will at once give the awards of the International Jury, Class 33, to the exhibitors whose
* ' works we have selected for illustration in the accompanying plate, as a proof how much
they merited permanent record. Mr. Phillips received a prize medal " for a very fine collection
of corals, some set in bracelets of Etruscan design, good diamond-setting, and other works in
jewellery and silver of merit." Messrs. London & Ryder a prize medal " for some creditable
silver plate, and a good selection of jewellery. Among the jewels is an emerald weighing 377
carats, remarkable for its size, and a ruby weighing 101 carats." Mr. R. Attenborough received
Honourable mention " for the general excellence of his silver plate, jewellery, &c."
Prom Mr. Phillips's important contribution we have selected for illustration a small gold
tripod vase, richly chased in the Renaissance style, with foliage, musical trophies, &c, enriched
with enamel-work, and studded with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and pearls, and inlaid with lapis
lazuli. The top was formed out of one fine oriental onyx furnished with a gold catch, in the form
of a chimera. The other pieces consist of a gold bracelet in the same style, a beautiful opal set
in brilliants forming the centre, representing the parting of Hector and Andromache; a gold
plaque inlaid with a fine cameo by Girometti, surrounded with enamelled ornament in the Italian
style; and a necklace formed with beads of oriental onyx, set with rubies, diamonds, emeralds,
and pearl drops.
From the collection exhibited by Messrs. London & Ryder we have given a comb, tiara,
bracelet, brooch, and earrings, in the Etruscan style, executed in gold and coral, very tastefully
combined; a wreath of pink coral flowers and forget-me-nots, formed of turquoises; part of a
parure made in pink coral, of exceedingly elegant design; and a fine cat's-eye, weighing 103
carats, formerly belonging to the King of Candy, set as a scarabosus in brilliants, the eyes
being formed by rubies.
Mr. Attenborough kindly allowed us to complete our selection with a very beautifully worked
gold necklace, containing fine mosaic medallions emblematic of Our Saviour, the four Evangelists,
and other symbols as used in early Christian art; we regret having been unable to illustrate
a repousse silver vase, executed by one of our most promising young artists, Mr. Thomas Pair-
point; and a very fine landscape in mosaic, executed by Dies of Rome, in the year 1812.
We will add a few remarks concerning some of the stones used in the jewellery we have
selected. The cat's-eye is a variety of Chalcedonic quartz, and is found principally in Ceylon.
It is usually set en caborhon, and is valued according to its opalescence, which is caused by the
presence of small parallel fibres of asbestos. It is often mentioned in old inventories: several
cases occur in the inventory of the Due de Berry, A.D. 1416 ; as, " gros yeulx de chat" and
" ceil de chat cler et net." In Italy it was called bell' occhio, but does not appear to have
been much prized. The emerald throughout all ages of antiquity has been of high value, and
had great virtues ascribed to it: worn round the neck, it put evil spirits to flight and preserved
purity; it betrayed inconstancy by crumbling to pieces ; gave the knowledge of future events
and discovered secrets; bestowed eloquence and increased wealth, and restored memory and
sight. The turquoise has always had a well-established reputation. Boetius de Boot, physician
to Rudolphus II. (A.D. 1576—1612), states that it relieves headaches, reconciles lovers, appeases
hatred, and pales at danger to the wearer. Ben Jonson, in his " Sejanus," writes, " And
true as turkois in the dear lord's ring looks well or ill with him." It was esteemed the
noblest of opaque stones, and two or three centuries ago every gentleman sought to wear a fine
turquoise ring. The opal, as it united the colours of so many other gems, was supposed- also to
possess all their varied moral and healing powers: it was considered especially good for the
eyesight. As regards coral, it has always been in great repute as an amulet. Brand, in his
" Popular Antiquities, Sue.," quotes thus from an old work:—"Witches tell that this stone with-
standeth lyghtenyng, and putteth it, as well as whirlewindes, tempests and storms from ships and
houses that it is in." Coral was a talisman against enchantments, witchcraft, venom, epilepsy,
assaults of Satan, thunder, and tempests. The coral and bells, still used for children, originated
with this idea, both scaring evil spirits. As to the Oriental ruby, called by the ancients anthrax
and pyrope, from its reputed quality of glowing like a coal in the dark, it would need a volume to
dilate on its marvellous merits.
JEWELLEEY,
BY MR. PHILLIPS, MESSES. LONDON & EYDEK, AND ME. ATTENBOROUGH, LONDON.
TTTE will at once give the awards of the International Jury, Class 33, to the exhibitors whose
* ' works we have selected for illustration in the accompanying plate, as a proof how much
they merited permanent record. Mr. Phillips received a prize medal " for a very fine collection
of corals, some set in bracelets of Etruscan design, good diamond-setting, and other works in
jewellery and silver of merit." Messrs. London & Ryder a prize medal " for some creditable
silver plate, and a good selection of jewellery. Among the jewels is an emerald weighing 377
carats, remarkable for its size, and a ruby weighing 101 carats." Mr. R. Attenborough received
Honourable mention " for the general excellence of his silver plate, jewellery, &c."
Prom Mr. Phillips's important contribution we have selected for illustration a small gold
tripod vase, richly chased in the Renaissance style, with foliage, musical trophies, &c, enriched
with enamel-work, and studded with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and pearls, and inlaid with lapis
lazuli. The top was formed out of one fine oriental onyx furnished with a gold catch, in the form
of a chimera. The other pieces consist of a gold bracelet in the same style, a beautiful opal set
in brilliants forming the centre, representing the parting of Hector and Andromache; a gold
plaque inlaid with a fine cameo by Girometti, surrounded with enamelled ornament in the Italian
style; and a necklace formed with beads of oriental onyx, set with rubies, diamonds, emeralds,
and pearl drops.
From the collection exhibited by Messrs. London & Ryder we have given a comb, tiara,
bracelet, brooch, and earrings, in the Etruscan style, executed in gold and coral, very tastefully
combined; a wreath of pink coral flowers and forget-me-nots, formed of turquoises; part of a
parure made in pink coral, of exceedingly elegant design; and a fine cat's-eye, weighing 103
carats, formerly belonging to the King of Candy, set as a scarabosus in brilliants, the eyes
being formed by rubies.
Mr. Attenborough kindly allowed us to complete our selection with a very beautifully worked
gold necklace, containing fine mosaic medallions emblematic of Our Saviour, the four Evangelists,
and other symbols as used in early Christian art; we regret having been unable to illustrate
a repousse silver vase, executed by one of our most promising young artists, Mr. Thomas Pair-
point; and a very fine landscape in mosaic, executed by Dies of Rome, in the year 1812.
We will add a few remarks concerning some of the stones used in the jewellery we have
selected. The cat's-eye is a variety of Chalcedonic quartz, and is found principally in Ceylon.
It is usually set en caborhon, and is valued according to its opalescence, which is caused by the
presence of small parallel fibres of asbestos. It is often mentioned in old inventories: several
cases occur in the inventory of the Due de Berry, A.D. 1416 ; as, " gros yeulx de chat" and
" ceil de chat cler et net." In Italy it was called bell' occhio, but does not appear to have
been much prized. The emerald throughout all ages of antiquity has been of high value, and
had great virtues ascribed to it: worn round the neck, it put evil spirits to flight and preserved
purity; it betrayed inconstancy by crumbling to pieces ; gave the knowledge of future events
and discovered secrets; bestowed eloquence and increased wealth, and restored memory and
sight. The turquoise has always had a well-established reputation. Boetius de Boot, physician
to Rudolphus II. (A.D. 1576—1612), states that it relieves headaches, reconciles lovers, appeases
hatred, and pales at danger to the wearer. Ben Jonson, in his " Sejanus," writes, " And
true as turkois in the dear lord's ring looks well or ill with him." It was esteemed the
noblest of opaque stones, and two or three centuries ago every gentleman sought to wear a fine
turquoise ring. The opal, as it united the colours of so many other gems, was supposed- also to
possess all their varied moral and healing powers: it was considered especially good for the
eyesight. As regards coral, it has always been in great repute as an amulet. Brand, in his
" Popular Antiquities, Sue.," quotes thus from an old work:—"Witches tell that this stone with-
standeth lyghtenyng, and putteth it, as well as whirlewindes, tempests and storms from ships and
houses that it is in." Coral was a talisman against enchantments, witchcraft, venom, epilepsy,
assaults of Satan, thunder, and tempests. The coral and bells, still used for children, originated
with this idea, both scaring evil spirits. As to the Oriental ruby, called by the ancients anthrax
and pyrope, from its reputed quality of glowing like a coal in the dark, it would need a volume to
dilate on its marvellous merits.