DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.1399#0254
PLATE 283.
SILK TISSUES FROM TURKEY.
fT^HE coloured silk and gold woven tissues contributed to the Exhibition by Turkey were
remarkable for the good taste and feeling for harmonious colouring displayed in them.
We have selected three different patterns for illustration, as being most characteristic of the style
ordinarily employed. These tissues are generally produced in lengths of seven or eight yards,
and widths of three yards, varying in price from £4 to £15. They are used for various
domestic and personal purposes, and are principally manufactured at Bagdad, Aleppo, and
Diarbekr, in Turkish-Armenia; the mixed silk and cotton for dresses being made chiefly at
Aleppo, Damascus, and Broussa. The patterns in almost all cases are of a geometrical and
conventional pattern, arranged in stripes, and of a very effective nature.
In the official Beport of Class 20 (Silk and Velvet) we read, in respect of Turkey, that " the
expectations in which the Reporter on the silk department of that country in 1851 ventured to
indulge as to the progress of this trade, principally in the raw and woven material, have been
so far justified by the result, that whereas on that occasion only two medals were awarded, on
this the Jurors have given eight, and made Honourable mention of eight others, out of forty-two
exhibitors."
"We read in the Times, September 23, 1862, that " the production of silk in Syria has of late
years received the most practical form of encouragement from French manufacturers. Their
agencies for the purchase both of the cocoons and raw fibre are widely established, and the trade
in the former from the Levant to Marseilles is now carried on very largely, and increases year
by year. Altogether some 4,000 to 5,000 bales, averaging a weight of 1201b. each, are raised
annually; and from the careful manner in which the French dealers are fostering its production to
the utmost, there is every probability of this yield being immensely increased. The Italian
method of winding off the silk has been introduced into Asia Minor by the French, and this
improvement alone has increased the value of Turkish silk in the market nearly two-fold. The
finest specimens shown are those sent by Toros Oglow and M. F. Kelzi, both of which have been
highly commended by the Jury both for quality and preparation. It is scarcely necessary to
speak of the exquisite fabrics into which this raw material is worked up, when treated by the
native weaver after his own Oriental tastes and fashions. Specimens of all kinds are shown from
Broussa, Bagdad, Aleppo, Damascus, and Monastir in Albania, all of which are very rich and
beautiful, and distinctively characteristic of their localities. Broussa, of course, as the great seat
of the silk manufacture, takes the lead in the number of its examples, though from a mistaken
desire to enter the European markets, the Oriental types of its patterns are often departed from
without a corresponding success in their imitation of English or French designs. All these
pieces of silk are made of distinct patterns, and none are of a greater length than eight yards.
Some of the examples are perfectly stiff with the gold interwoven in their patterns, whilst others
are as light and fleecy as the yashmaks of the Turkish belles of rank, than which it would be
difficult to name any textile fabric thinner or more transparent."
As regards the writer's remark concerning the inferiority of style evinced by the Turks when
they imitate European designs, Ave entirely agree with him, and would add that nothing could
be more commonplace and tasteless than the designs after European patterns seen on the silk
hangings made in the imperial manufactory at Hereke, near Constantinople. In regard to
decorative art applied to textile fabrics generally, it is Europe which should go to school to
Orientals, and take lessons from their fine designs, harmonious colouring, and judicious adaptation
of pattern to material. The Turk would make a bad exchange if he were to adopt our costume
or our ornament in place of his own. No; whatever other improvements he may obtain by
European intercourse, let us assure him that these are not among the number; and so in each
case we advise him, without wishing to make a pun, to stick to his old habits.
SILK TISSUES FROM TURKEY.
fT^HE coloured silk and gold woven tissues contributed to the Exhibition by Turkey were
remarkable for the good taste and feeling for harmonious colouring displayed in them.
We have selected three different patterns for illustration, as being most characteristic of the style
ordinarily employed. These tissues are generally produced in lengths of seven or eight yards,
and widths of three yards, varying in price from £4 to £15. They are used for various
domestic and personal purposes, and are principally manufactured at Bagdad, Aleppo, and
Diarbekr, in Turkish-Armenia; the mixed silk and cotton for dresses being made chiefly at
Aleppo, Damascus, and Broussa. The patterns in almost all cases are of a geometrical and
conventional pattern, arranged in stripes, and of a very effective nature.
In the official Beport of Class 20 (Silk and Velvet) we read, in respect of Turkey, that " the
expectations in which the Reporter on the silk department of that country in 1851 ventured to
indulge as to the progress of this trade, principally in the raw and woven material, have been
so far justified by the result, that whereas on that occasion only two medals were awarded, on
this the Jurors have given eight, and made Honourable mention of eight others, out of forty-two
exhibitors."
"We read in the Times, September 23, 1862, that " the production of silk in Syria has of late
years received the most practical form of encouragement from French manufacturers. Their
agencies for the purchase both of the cocoons and raw fibre are widely established, and the trade
in the former from the Levant to Marseilles is now carried on very largely, and increases year
by year. Altogether some 4,000 to 5,000 bales, averaging a weight of 1201b. each, are raised
annually; and from the careful manner in which the French dealers are fostering its production to
the utmost, there is every probability of this yield being immensely increased. The Italian
method of winding off the silk has been introduced into Asia Minor by the French, and this
improvement alone has increased the value of Turkish silk in the market nearly two-fold. The
finest specimens shown are those sent by Toros Oglow and M. F. Kelzi, both of which have been
highly commended by the Jury both for quality and preparation. It is scarcely necessary to
speak of the exquisite fabrics into which this raw material is worked up, when treated by the
native weaver after his own Oriental tastes and fashions. Specimens of all kinds are shown from
Broussa, Bagdad, Aleppo, Damascus, and Monastir in Albania, all of which are very rich and
beautiful, and distinctively characteristic of their localities. Broussa, of course, as the great seat
of the silk manufacture, takes the lead in the number of its examples, though from a mistaken
desire to enter the European markets, the Oriental types of its patterns are often departed from
without a corresponding success in their imitation of English or French designs. All these
pieces of silk are made of distinct patterns, and none are of a greater length than eight yards.
Some of the examples are perfectly stiff with the gold interwoven in their patterns, whilst others
are as light and fleecy as the yashmaks of the Turkish belles of rank, than which it would be
difficult to name any textile fabric thinner or more transparent."
As regards the writer's remark concerning the inferiority of style evinced by the Turks when
they imitate European designs, Ave entirely agree with him, and would add that nothing could
be more commonplace and tasteless than the designs after European patterns seen on the silk
hangings made in the imperial manufactory at Hereke, near Constantinople. In regard to
decorative art applied to textile fabrics generally, it is Europe which should go to school to
Orientals, and take lessons from their fine designs, harmonious colouring, and judicious adaptation
of pattern to material. The Turk would make a bad exchange if he were to adopt our costume
or our ornament in place of his own. No; whatever other improvements he may obtain by
European intercourse, let us assure him that these are not among the number; and so in each
case we advise him, without wishing to make a pun, to stick to his old habits.