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QUARRIES OF HADGAR SILSILI.

199

of ancient Egypt though, every trace of the hundred-
gated city should be swept away.

Where the rocks rise perpendicularly out of the
water they have been hollowed into grottoes, with
elegant painted facades. In some, stiff mutilated
figures, seated opposite the entrance and seeming to
court the attention of those passing on the river, are
just distinguishable through the obscurity of the
interior. These water-grots, though much smaller,
reminded me of the sea caves on the Naples coast.
The water rippling into their shady recesses suggests
the same ideas of a delicious retreat from the sultri-
ness of day under a vertical sun.

Between Silsili and Kom Ombo we had proof of
the rapid changes to which this climate is subject.
All nature was hushed into a profound calm, when
suddenly a violent squall swept over the valley; the
palms swayed to and fro, the men, who were slowly
tugging up the stream, leapt on board, and in a
moment we were scudding under the gale. Presently
the wind veered—then fell to a calm. A thunder-
storm followed ; the wind blew a hurricane, the
heavens seemed full of vivid lightning, and a short
smart shower fell. This too presently subsided, and
within half an hour from the first calm our boat,
which we had secured to the bank during the height
of the gale, was gliding softly over the moonlit waters
under a light breeze. Herodotus thought the fall of
a shower worthy of record among the events of a

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