DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.25990#0041
TURBANS.
15
while in others gold in stripes, varying in breadth from one-eighth of an inch to several
inches, is introduced.
Sometimes the gold, or other decorative medium, in addition to running across the end
is made to pxtend longitudinally a little way up from the end, so as to be seen on the
side of one or two of the last folds of the turban. In some instances, again, the embellishment
is carried so far up that all the outer folds of the turban present it to .view. In PI. II.
the standing figure in the group represents the first of these styles; the sitting figure to
the left in the same group the second; while the turban on figure 10 shows the more
copious ornamentation last alluded to.
For the assistance of those who may wish more precise information regarding this class
of manufacture, we shall now refer in detail to the working samples shown in the volumes
to which allusion has been made.
The turbans are divisible into two groups, consisting of long and square turban pieces. In
describing these, a classification founded upon the quality of the material and the style of
ornamentation will be adopted.
A.—TURBAN-PIECES ;—LONG.
1. Turban Pieces.—Cotton; Plain, bleached and unbleached.
Nos. 1 and 7, Vol. 1, are examples of a plain material, the only difference between them
and ordinary piece goods being that they are specially manufactured of the requisite length
and width.
It will be observed that, like the vast majority of the India fabrics, they are undressed ; the
employment of size to the extent of stiffening the material being objectionable from its
interfering with the lightness and openness of the article. This is a remark which applies
with equal force both to scarf-like and to other fabrics designed for wear next the skin in
hot climates. The use of size interferes with the pleasant feel of the fabric, and impedes
free transpiration from the body.
No. 1 (bleached) is 15 yards long, 12 inches wide, and weighs 6 ounces. No. 7 is 24 yards
long, 12 inches wide, and weighs 8^ ounces.
The only other example coming under this head is No. 9, in the same volume, which affords
a specimen of a thick unbleached material from Arracan. Its length is only 3 yds. 18 in.,
its width 9 inches, and its weight 11 ounces. Being a thicker and bulkier material, it does
not require to be so long.
2. Turban Pieces.—Cotton ; Plain, with coloured Ends.
Of these Nos. 3 and 4, from Lahore, are examples. In both of these the ornamental effect
is produced by the introduction across their ends of a yellow stripe, about an inch wide, with
double pink stripes on each side.
No. 3 is 6|- yards long, 1 yard wide, and 15 ounces in weight. No. 4 is 8|> yards long,
1 yard wide, and of weight proportional to No. 3, both being about the same in quality. These
two, it will be observed, are much shorter than Nos. 1 and 7 in the former group, but here
increased breadth is made to supply the necessary bulk.
3. Turban Pieces.—Cotton ; Plain, with Gold Thread in Ends.
The subjoined table embraces the examples of the class of ornamentation in this important
group.
15
while in others gold in stripes, varying in breadth from one-eighth of an inch to several
inches, is introduced.
Sometimes the gold, or other decorative medium, in addition to running across the end
is made to pxtend longitudinally a little way up from the end, so as to be seen on the
side of one or two of the last folds of the turban. In some instances, again, the embellishment
is carried so far up that all the outer folds of the turban present it to .view. In PI. II.
the standing figure in the group represents the first of these styles; the sitting figure to
the left in the same group the second; while the turban on figure 10 shows the more
copious ornamentation last alluded to.
For the assistance of those who may wish more precise information regarding this class
of manufacture, we shall now refer in detail to the working samples shown in the volumes
to which allusion has been made.
The turbans are divisible into two groups, consisting of long and square turban pieces. In
describing these, a classification founded upon the quality of the material and the style of
ornamentation will be adopted.
A.—TURBAN-PIECES ;—LONG.
1. Turban Pieces.—Cotton; Plain, bleached and unbleached.
Nos. 1 and 7, Vol. 1, are examples of a plain material, the only difference between them
and ordinary piece goods being that they are specially manufactured of the requisite length
and width.
It will be observed that, like the vast majority of the India fabrics, they are undressed ; the
employment of size to the extent of stiffening the material being objectionable from its
interfering with the lightness and openness of the article. This is a remark which applies
with equal force both to scarf-like and to other fabrics designed for wear next the skin in
hot climates. The use of size interferes with the pleasant feel of the fabric, and impedes
free transpiration from the body.
No. 1 (bleached) is 15 yards long, 12 inches wide, and weighs 6 ounces. No. 7 is 24 yards
long, 12 inches wide, and weighs 8^ ounces.
The only other example coming under this head is No. 9, in the same volume, which affords
a specimen of a thick unbleached material from Arracan. Its length is only 3 yds. 18 in.,
its width 9 inches, and its weight 11 ounces. Being a thicker and bulkier material, it does
not require to be so long.
2. Turban Pieces.—Cotton ; Plain, with coloured Ends.
Of these Nos. 3 and 4, from Lahore, are examples. In both of these the ornamental effect
is produced by the introduction across their ends of a yellow stripe, about an inch wide, with
double pink stripes on each side.
No. 3 is 6|- yards long, 1 yard wide, and 15 ounces in weight. No. 4 is 8|> yards long,
1 yard wide, and of weight proportional to No. 3, both being about the same in quality. These
two, it will be observed, are much shorter than Nos. 1 and 7 in the former group, but here
increased breadth is made to supply the necessary bulk.
3. Turban Pieces.—Cotton ; Plain, with Gold Thread in Ends.
The subjoined table embraces the examples of the class of ornamentation in this important
group.