DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.25990#0043
TURBANS
17
4. Turban Pieces.—Cotton; dyed or printed.
Nos. 20, 30, 31, 32, and 34 are the examples given.
Of these No. 34 is the one which, in point of material and colour, is the most worthy
of attention.
No. 20 is interesting as a specimen of what, next to colouring by hand, may be considered
the simplest way of producing an ornamental effect,—namely, that of using a stamp to lay a
body color on the surface of the material. In the specimen in question a star pattern, in white
and black, has been thus stamped on a dull red ground. This mode of ornamentation is not
uncommon, but it is not an economical one, as the material cannot be cleaned or washed.
In the specimen referred to (No. 20) it will be observed that the white stands out from the
dull red ground on which it is placed in a way which has a good effect.
It is said that in the making up of this turban padding is employed, a mode of construc-
tion which is not uncommon in some parts of the country. The turban piece in question
(No. 20) is 14 yards long, 10 inches wide, and weighs 7 ounces. It was manufactured at
Bhurtpore.
No. 30 is a rather coarse material with a small close pattern in dark-red and black on a
pinkish-white ground. About 3 inches of the end is dark-red with a pattern in black printed
on it. Length 15 yards, width 9 inches, and weight 9^ ounces. Manufactured at Sydapet,
and stated to be worn by the Lubbays, an industrious class of Mahomedan fishermen and
merchants on the Madras coast.
No. 31, an ordinary calico material. Pattern, a small zig-zag stripe of red on a white
ground. Six inches of the principal end are dark-red, with an ornamental pattern in black
printed on it. Length, 12 yards; width, 11 inches; weight, lib. Manufactured at Pomady
but bought in Madras bazaar. Price in 1854, 2s. 7\d*
No. 32, quality similar to last example. Pattern a small black and white check. Six inches
of principal end dark red, with pattern in black and white. Length, 16J> yards ; width, 9 inches ;
weight, 15ij ounces. Prom Pomady, in Madras, price 3s. In this, and in No. 31, the
fabric is sized or stiffened in an unusual degree, but this would probably be removed before
making up the piece for use.
No. 34 shows a favourite style of pattern, and although very inferior in texture, is otherwise
not unlike the specimens from Jeypore—Nos. 23 to 28 included under group 6. The pattern
may be described as a double zig-zag. Three inches of the principal end is of the main colour
of the piece, viz. purple. When made up, the whole would form a turban similar in appearance
to that shown in figure 8, PI. II. Length, 161> yards; width 10 inches; weight, 15^- ounces.
■ Obtained in Madras. Price 3s. 1 \d.
5. Turban-Pieces.—Cotton ; dyed, coloured, or printed ; Gold Thread in Ends.
The subjoined table contains the examples coming under this head.
Nos. 23 to 29 inclusive are admirable specimens both of material and of style. They
are from Jeypore, a native state, which in other branches of art shows evidence of skill in
manipulation and in management of colour.
* The prices given here and elsewhere throughout this work, and which are the same as those on the
labels in the Fabric Books, must not be taken as a correct guide to present values. They simply represent the
sums paid in 1854 by the various Committees appointed by the Government in India to collect specimens for
the Paris Universal Exhibition of the following year. Although on the main reliable for the period named,
the prices attached to some of the articles are clearly inaccurate.
17
4. Turban Pieces.—Cotton; dyed or printed.
Nos. 20, 30, 31, 32, and 34 are the examples given.
Of these No. 34 is the one which, in point of material and colour, is the most worthy
of attention.
No. 20 is interesting as a specimen of what, next to colouring by hand, may be considered
the simplest way of producing an ornamental effect,—namely, that of using a stamp to lay a
body color on the surface of the material. In the specimen in question a star pattern, in white
and black, has been thus stamped on a dull red ground. This mode of ornamentation is not
uncommon, but it is not an economical one, as the material cannot be cleaned or washed.
In the specimen referred to (No. 20) it will be observed that the white stands out from the
dull red ground on which it is placed in a way which has a good effect.
It is said that in the making up of this turban padding is employed, a mode of construc-
tion which is not uncommon in some parts of the country. The turban piece in question
(No. 20) is 14 yards long, 10 inches wide, and weighs 7 ounces. It was manufactured at
Bhurtpore.
No. 30 is a rather coarse material with a small close pattern in dark-red and black on a
pinkish-white ground. About 3 inches of the end is dark-red with a pattern in black printed
on it. Length 15 yards, width 9 inches, and weight 9^ ounces. Manufactured at Sydapet,
and stated to be worn by the Lubbays, an industrious class of Mahomedan fishermen and
merchants on the Madras coast.
No. 31, an ordinary calico material. Pattern, a small zig-zag stripe of red on a white
ground. Six inches of the principal end are dark-red, with an ornamental pattern in black
printed on it. Length, 12 yards; width, 11 inches; weight, lib. Manufactured at Pomady
but bought in Madras bazaar. Price in 1854, 2s. 7\d*
No. 32, quality similar to last example. Pattern a small black and white check. Six inches
of principal end dark red, with pattern in black and white. Length, 16J> yards ; width, 9 inches ;
weight, 15ij ounces. Prom Pomady, in Madras, price 3s. In this, and in No. 31, the
fabric is sized or stiffened in an unusual degree, but this would probably be removed before
making up the piece for use.
No. 34 shows a favourite style of pattern, and although very inferior in texture, is otherwise
not unlike the specimens from Jeypore—Nos. 23 to 28 included under group 6. The pattern
may be described as a double zig-zag. Three inches of the principal end is of the main colour
of the piece, viz. purple. When made up, the whole would form a turban similar in appearance
to that shown in figure 8, PI. II. Length, 161> yards; width 10 inches; weight, 15^- ounces.
■ Obtained in Madras. Price 3s. 1 \d.
5. Turban-Pieces.—Cotton ; dyed, coloured, or printed ; Gold Thread in Ends.
The subjoined table contains the examples coming under this head.
Nos. 23 to 29 inclusive are admirable specimens both of material and of style. They
are from Jeypore, a native state, which in other branches of art shows evidence of skill in
manipulation and in management of colour.
* The prices given here and elsewhere throughout this work, and which are the same as those on the
labels in the Fabric Books, must not be taken as a correct guide to present values. They simply represent the
sums paid in 1854 by the various Committees appointed by the Government in India to collect specimens for
the Paris Universal Exhibition of the following year. Although on the main reliable for the period named,
the prices attached to some of the articles are clearly inaccurate.