DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.25990#0048
LOONGEES AND DHOTEES.
21
In the foregoing descriptions of the modes of ornamenting turbans, it will be observed
that silver thread has not been mentioned as in use for that purpose. In some parts of the
country, however, it is employed, as for instance in the Dharwar district, where a kind of
turban called the Mondasa is manufactured, and is said to be worn by the poorer classes on
festival days. The use of silver thread is not common, on account of its liability to tarnish;
and perhaps also because the difference between the cost of the small quantity of gold and
of silver thread, which proves sufficient for the embellishment of a turban, is too small
to render it an important element in the calculation, whilst the greater beauty of the
former secures for it the preference.
II.—LOONGEES AND DHOTEES.
Before the introduction of the art of sewing, the dress of the male Hindu, in addition to
the head-cloth, consisted of two scarf-formed pieces, one of which was worn over the
shoulders and upper part of the body, and the other was used as covering for the loins
and legs. The first of these is called a Loongee * and the second a Dhotee.f
At the present time the usual dress of the poorer classes of Mahomedans and Hindus,
whilst at home or at work, consists simply of the piece of cloth called a Dhotee wrapped
round the loins. The end of this, after a couple of turns round the waist, is passed by
the Hindu between the legs, and thrust under the folds which cross behind. Occasionally,
however, the end is passed from behind and fastened in front. Amongst the Mahomedans
again, the loin-cloth, after being folded two or three times round the waist, is usually
allowed to hang down :—that is, it is not tucked up between the legs as with the Hindus.
The standing figure in group 4, PI. I., and other figures in Plates III. and IY., afford
illustrations of the manner in which this article of dress is worn. The simpler form consists
of a small piece of calico, J with its ends turned over a string tied round the haunches, while
the more elaborate forms are nearly as copious as a woman’s petticoat. Figures 22 and 23,
PI. IY., show this.
Although piece-goods of a suitable breadth are largely cut up into dhotees, as well as into
shoulder-scarfs, it is to the Loongee and Dhotee manufactured of the proper length and
width, that is, in separate pieces, that we have here more particularly to refer.
The first class of articles, viz. the Loongees, or scarfs, for wearing over the body and
shoulders, are of the more importance, because they afford greater scope for the introduction
of those decorations which we have seen to be so successfully employed in turbans.
* This term has come to be generally applied to the shoulder or upper cloth worn by males. The majority of the
specimens forwarded from India, and inserted in the Fabric Books, were so designated, and although not precisely
correct, this name (Loongee) is here adopted as affording, for trade purposes, a convenient distinction between
shoulder and loin cloths. Strictly speaking, the Loongee is worn by Mahomedans, and has the same function as
the Dhotee of the Hindu.
f Dliotee; derived from dhona, to wash, and so named from being washed daily at the time of bathing.
Every Dhotee, however, has not this daily washing, for in its more elaborate form it is embellished with ornamental
borders, and, by the rich as well as the poor, on festival occasions, is doffed after the ablutions for the day have
been finished.
| Langgoti is the name used when the Dhotee is very small. (Buchanan, in Martin’s “Eastern India,”
Yol. III., p. 103.)
21
In the foregoing descriptions of the modes of ornamenting turbans, it will be observed
that silver thread has not been mentioned as in use for that purpose. In some parts of the
country, however, it is employed, as for instance in the Dharwar district, where a kind of
turban called the Mondasa is manufactured, and is said to be worn by the poorer classes on
festival days. The use of silver thread is not common, on account of its liability to tarnish;
and perhaps also because the difference between the cost of the small quantity of gold and
of silver thread, which proves sufficient for the embellishment of a turban, is too small
to render it an important element in the calculation, whilst the greater beauty of the
former secures for it the preference.
II.—LOONGEES AND DHOTEES.
Before the introduction of the art of sewing, the dress of the male Hindu, in addition to
the head-cloth, consisted of two scarf-formed pieces, one of which was worn over the
shoulders and upper part of the body, and the other was used as covering for the loins
and legs. The first of these is called a Loongee * and the second a Dhotee.f
At the present time the usual dress of the poorer classes of Mahomedans and Hindus,
whilst at home or at work, consists simply of the piece of cloth called a Dhotee wrapped
round the loins. The end of this, after a couple of turns round the waist, is passed by
the Hindu between the legs, and thrust under the folds which cross behind. Occasionally,
however, the end is passed from behind and fastened in front. Amongst the Mahomedans
again, the loin-cloth, after being folded two or three times round the waist, is usually
allowed to hang down :—that is, it is not tucked up between the legs as with the Hindus.
The standing figure in group 4, PI. I., and other figures in Plates III. and IY., afford
illustrations of the manner in which this article of dress is worn. The simpler form consists
of a small piece of calico, J with its ends turned over a string tied round the haunches, while
the more elaborate forms are nearly as copious as a woman’s petticoat. Figures 22 and 23,
PI. IY., show this.
Although piece-goods of a suitable breadth are largely cut up into dhotees, as well as into
shoulder-scarfs, it is to the Loongee and Dhotee manufactured of the proper length and
width, that is, in separate pieces, that we have here more particularly to refer.
The first class of articles, viz. the Loongees, or scarfs, for wearing over the body and
shoulders, are of the more importance, because they afford greater scope for the introduction
of those decorations which we have seen to be so successfully employed in turbans.
* This term has come to be generally applied to the shoulder or upper cloth worn by males. The majority of the
specimens forwarded from India, and inserted in the Fabric Books, were so designated, and although not precisely
correct, this name (Loongee) is here adopted as affording, for trade purposes, a convenient distinction between
shoulder and loin cloths. Strictly speaking, the Loongee is worn by Mahomedans, and has the same function as
the Dhotee of the Hindu.
f Dliotee; derived from dhona, to wash, and so named from being washed daily at the time of bathing.
Every Dhotee, however, has not this daily washing, for in its more elaborate form it is embellished with ornamental
borders, and, by the rich as well as the poor, on festival occasions, is doffed after the ablutions for the day have
been finished.
| Langgoti is the name used when the Dhotee is very small. (Buchanan, in Martin’s “Eastern India,”
Yol. III., p. 103.)